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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.


cmboland

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23 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Duke’s belts - better than Iron Heart and made in Scotchland for Irn-Bru waists, no idea on price though!

Truthfully? A lot less expensive using exactly the same leather :wink:

Edit to add: as are my other leather goods despite being genuinely hand made 

Edited by Duke Mantee
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This might have been asked before but how do you guys condition the leather patches of your jeans and jackets? There are so many products available and I have no idea where to start. I prefer 100% natural products. And has anyone had experience with the conditioned leather patch on a jacket rubbing off on the clothing underneath?

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40 minutes ago, mstax said:

This might have been asked before but how do you guys condition the leather patches of your jeans and jackets? There are so many products available and I have no idea where to start. I prefer 100% natural products. And has anyone had experience with the conditioned leather patch on a jacket rubbing off on the clothing underneath?

If you feel the need to condition a patch just use any decent conditioning product you shouldn’t really get any residue - just use a tiny amount, most folk probably overdo it re. application quantities.

And I guess the next question would be ‘what’s a decent conditioning product?’ … Saphir, Renapur, Smiths, Sedgwick … and many more. Try to avoid any that use alcohols or petrols. And use solid form or thick liquid form conditioners … they’re easier to use less of. The thin runny stuff will encourage you to flood the leather

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I know it flies in the face of everything that Duke has (correctly) suggested above but I’ve used Vaseline lip balm on numerous jeans patches for years and seen no obvious detrimental effects on the leather, stitching or denim. I didn’t buy it for this purpose but used it because it was at hand.

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3 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I know it flies in the face of everything that Duke has (correctly) suggested above but I’ve used Vaseline lip balm on numerous jeans patches for years and seen no obvious detrimental effects on the leather, stitching or denim. I didn’t buy it for this purpose but used it because it was at hand.

If it works - it works, no argument there. I’m just advocating the use of more ‘natural’ ingredients as a preference 

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Just booked a trip to London around Christmas / New Years, will be spending a few days there and in Paris, maybe Bruges or another place that's easily accessible by rail.
Let me know if anyone wants to grab a pint or if you have any suggestions for a third spot to visit.

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1 hour ago, Broark said:

Just booked a trip to London around Christmas / New Years, will be spending a few days there and in Paris, maybe Bruges or another place that's easily accessible by rail.
Let me know if anyone wants to grab a pint or if you have any suggestions for a third spot to visit.

Come to Athens, let's hang.

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I committed a denim blunder, I'm sure someone here can explain my mistake.

I recently ordered a pair of TCB 50s that I wanted to wear in a specific way: uncuffed with the hem draped just over the top of a shoe to feature the roping. I asked for them to be hemmed to the length I needed at point of purchase, thinking this would be the best way to preserve the really nice chainstitching this jean features. The result is not what I expected:

PXL_20231012_231007684.thumb.jpg.3393e76087777029b488854b02a37cd5.jpg

The original hem (cutting was mailed to me) is on the left, the new hem is on the right. The original hem is perfect, the new hem is characterless.

What I think I'm just realizing, is that this you only get this perfect hem when the jean is washed for the first time, shrinking and pulling the hem askew. If the jean if hemmed after the first wash, you're stuck with a flat hem. Is that right? Will this hem gain any character from subsequent washings or is it toast?

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Aside from hemming raw/ hemming after first wash, what do you think of this chain stitch? Different pair on the left, original hem in the middle, new hem on the right. The new stitching looks messy to me, but I'm not sure what's a reasonable margin for error here.

PXL_20231013_000508240.thumb.jpg.264f37700c05a5ba59a4f306cacd29a8.jpg

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1 hour ago, willi said:

Aside from hemming raw/ hemming after first wash, what do you think of this chain stitch? Different pair on the left, original hem in the middle, new hem on the right. The new stitching looks messy to me, but I'm not sure what's a reasonable margin for error here.

PXL_20231013_000508240.thumb.jpg.264f37700c05a5ba59a4f306cacd29a8.jpg

If you got them hemmed by TCB you’ll be fine. I’ve found that if they keep the 8mm width and use a union special 4300G or whatever it’s called it’ll rope anyhow. Had my FW pair hemmed 3 months in and still roped like crazy. 
It does depend on the machine a lot. Different union specials of the same model return different results. Must have to do with the angle of the needle. They are not all the same. 
anyways, yours will be fine. 
get the hem wet a few times. Maybe before wearing them and it’ll slowly start roping. 
 

i like roping on the hem as well. 
lord please help all the other people see the beauty 

Edited by vlad_III
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A litte messy can be desirable. Some even like when the selvedge is folded into the stitch by accident. It’ll give you more character when it ropes.  Main things are ⅓ inch width and union special 4320G or something like that. 

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I’ve gotten some good roping even with hand-chainstitched hems - the trick is just pulling the thread right enough… and the other trick is performing the hem well before the jeans are done shrinking. That one looks like it’ll be good to me!

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I bet even Hand stitched will work. As you said. The tension of the thread is key. I highly doubt the shrinkage of the denim makes much difference. % wise that’s nothing at the hem. Thread is under tension when being sewn and tries to relax later, maybe? I don’t know for sure. 

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10 hours ago, Broark said:

Just booked a trip to London around Christmas / New Years, will be spending a few days there and in Paris, maybe Bruges or another place that's easily accessible by rail.
Let me know if anyone wants to grab a pint or if you have any suggestions for a third spot to visit.

Typical, lve had the last two Christmases off but have to work it this year, otherwise I would've loved to come and meet up for a couple.

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

I'm sure one of the London lads will hook up with you?

I might be able to convince @MJF9 to meet up, maybe even @Maynard Friedman  (no photos of course).
All are welcome, I think we'll be there around the 26th - 30th roughly before heading over to Paris for a bit, then back again to catch the flight back by the 5th.

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It'd be great to meet up Austin provided I can navigate around those being some of the most awkward dates in the year for northern mobility!!  You may even be able to prove Maynard is actually real and not a bot!

No calling it #londondenimhangz though eh 😜

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13 minutes ago, Broark said:

What's the most obnoxious hashtag we can come up with?
#broarkslondondenimhangz2024invitational🔥👊💯

I'll throw in a $100 gift card for the "winner".

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