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Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

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Onuki!
Seems like the way they pump out denim it might be a case of manufactured scarcity.
But I'm sure that plays into effect with a lot of these special editions.

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On 10/12/2018 at 2:40 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Looks like the new Oni x Tanuki collab jeans and jacket are even more sought after than a pair of Roy's jeans.
Apparently only 2 items pair size were given to retailers and those seem to be all sold out in seconds.

Interesting since the raw denim market is pretty saturated and most special editions, limited editions or new releases can be bought without much hassel. Even Roy jeans are still available on his site :D
Dunno where the hype for Oni x Tanuki came from but I blame reddit for it ;)

I was planning on going yesterday morning to Blue Owl and checking it out but I got distracted. The fabric looks great (21oz!), and I like the slanted pockets.

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On 10/12/2018 at 3:40 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

... Even Roy jeans are still available on his site...
 

I tried to buy a pair of 33 R01 that his site said was available, but when I got to the PP page, they were not available. Roy told me he hasn't updated his site. If you try to buy any other size, the PP page says sold out. It appears he doesn't have any pairs for sale ATM. 

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I've been waiting to develop an opinion re: Tanuki. A few weeks ago I was in Boulder, and went to Canoe Club. They had the EHT 18oz Earth High Rise Tapered cut that @mikecch recently reviewed on his blog. I concur with pretty much everything he said. I tried on several pairs of jeans from different makers, and the guys in the shop all thought the EHT suited me the best. From the denim, to cut, to construction, to details, everything is done really well. I didn't cop them because there are so many other pairs I have my eye on... but they are now contenders. 

I think they did a real disservice to themselves - and was rather arrogant - when they first came on the scene with claims of bringing a new level to raw denim when there are several brands that have been doing that for years, and continue to evolve and push boundaries. I don't think they're better in nay way than some of the other JP brands, but hey are certianly in that league with some of their newer developments. 

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On another note, in part fueled by trying on the EHT's, I'm not really a fan of the current trend with relaxed-tapered  / straight-tapered cuts with aggressive taper from the knee down. I think there's just too much taper from the knee down. The hem width is too narrow. I get the desire for a comfy top block and thighs and a slim profile - that's what I want, but it's gone just a little too far. There's a trend I see now in men's fashion for skin tight stretch jeans and long, loose tee-shirts with curved hems front and back - the look is absolutely horrid. It seems that the aggressive taper on the relaxed-tapered cuts is catering to that trend too much. I think for a size 33, a relaxed tapered cut looks better with a hem around 7.25"-7.5". Anything under 7" is too narrow unless it's on a size 28. 

The one thing that gave me pause re: the EHT's was how small the hem is. The top block and thighs were roomy and comfy, and almost had the look of 501's, yet from the knee down they looked like slim jeans. There seemed to me a disconnect between the top and bottom. If I had a pair hemmed to the right length, they might look better. But again, the guys in the shop all thought they looked by-far the best on me. 

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I'll post this here instead of the LVC thread... 

Since I've lost so much weight and mass in the past 9+ months, most of my jeans are too big now. They're all 33's and 34's. The 34's are all way too big, some 33's still fit well. So, I've taken a little time to look into other sizes and fits by getting some off-the-shelf Levi's as a base. Pics are with same LW tee tucked, belt and shoes for comparison. 

The first pair was 501 STF 32x34. I haven't had a pair since I was a kid. What else can be said about the 501 that hasn't already been said? They're a great cut. About 3 weeks of wear. Denim is decent, non-selvedge. Overall construction and details are fine, a bit lackluster compared to what we are used to. These are TTS for me, and sit at my waist. 

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Then I found the 502 at a Levi's Outlet and was intrigued and impressed by the fit. I copped a pair w/ 1% stretch. Super comfy, but non-interesting denim so I didn't take any pics. Only wore them for 5 days or so. Then I found this pair of 100% cotton non-selvedge. The color is called Blue. The denim is great for what it is - very streaky, irregular, nice grey-blue cast, very slow fading I think. Light weight, I'd say maybe 10oz. Great for the end of the summer. About 3 weeks of wear. I mainly wore them uncuffed, as it doesn't seem right to cuff non-selvedge. 

size 32x34. The fit is straight-taper with medium-low rise. Sits just below the hips. I love this cut overall. The waist is too oversized, as I have to wear a belt to cinch them or they fall down too much. For a size 32, the waist 34.5". The hem is about 7.25". Maybe a little too narrow, I think 7.5" would be better. They nearly nailed it perfectly with this cut, despite the waist. So many little things are spot on for what I look for. The front pockets are functional and look good, some of the best ever. Back pockets are good size and placed low. Back yoke is low slung. Gives an overall lengthening appearance (I forgot the back pic). Masculine, modern. Levi's should really do a premium version of the 502 in a selvedge denim. 

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Then a week ago I scored these 511 selvedge for a ridiculous sale price at the flagship store in Denver. Made in Turkey, not Cone. Top notch construction and details. They're on-apr with the LVC 1976 I have, but some of the details aren't quite at the same level. Far better than off-the-shelf 501 STF or the 502. 

Size 33x34. The cut slim fit, low rise. I never in a 100-million years thought I could or would want to wear slim low rise jeans. Yet somehow, they work for me! I'm really impressed with the fit. After having some bad experiences with some JP brands' models with low rise and tight legs, these are noticeably different. Even though they feel rather tight - they feel tighter than they look - range of motion and mobility is really good. Very comfy and not constricting the Boys at all. Great front pockets - I can keep a knife in the pocket and still get my hand in and use it! Great denim - rather regular weave, with small nep. I think it will fade well. 

511 size 33 is comparable to 502 sized 32, but the thighs and waist are a bit smaller. 511 zes 22 waist is 34", and it works much better in this cut. Low rise cuts are meant to have a slightly larger waist to accommodate being worn lower. 

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I'm really happy with the 511 selvedge and plan to wear them for a while until I figure out what to do next. Perhaps they're a bit too slim, but I'll wear 'em while I can! I've my eye on some straight-taper cuts from Samurai, SDA, Tanuki, IH, but not sure just yet... the Samurai S511 is probably the top contender. Which is really funny to me, because I remember myself bashing that cut when it first came out - I didn't like the look of it at all, and now when I look at the measurements it's really appealing! 

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If I were you, I'd de-prioritize the upper body at the gym and work on the squat / deadlift. Your lower body is lagging behind. Nice work on the weight loss and upper body work by the way!

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I just want to highlight the awesome customer service of Jelado right now.

Even though I posted a recent waywt of a Jelado flannel that fits very well, two months ago I had a mishap of ordering the wrong small size and even attempted/deleted a ebay ad for the shirt.

Kuma from Jelado not only accepted the exchange of the size large for an XL, but he was also able to get the shirt from the Jelado Hideout store in Shibuya, even though the main webstore/store out of Tokyo was sold out of the size.

It took some money, shipping, and emailing back and forth, but I was able to get the awesome flannel in a great size.  I didn't have to buy a new shirt.  It's currently my favorite flannel right now.

It's very hard to get an exchange from Japan shops online, so that's why I'm highlighting this brand for the above and beyond customer service.  I know a few USA stores that could pick up a thing or two about good customer service, IMO.

Thanks Jelado!

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1 hour ago, mlwdp said:

I just want to highlight the awesome customer service of Jelado right now.

Even though I posted a recent waywt of a Jelado flannel that fits very well, two months ago I had a mishap of ordering the wrong small size and even attempted/deleted a ebay ad for the shirt.

Kuma from Jelado not only accepted the exchange of the size large for an XL, but he was also able to get the shirt from the Jelado Hideout store in Shibuya, even though the main webstore/store out of Tokyo was sold out of the size.

It took some money, shipping, and emailing back and forth, but I was able to get the awesome flannel in a great size.  I didn't have to buy a new shirt.  It's currently my favorite flannel right now.

It's very hard to get an exchange from Japan shops online, so that's why I'm highlighting this brand for the above and beyond customer service.  I know a few USA stores that could pick up a thing or two about good customer service, IMO.

Thanks Jelado!

Wow that is indeed some great service. I (like many others I assume) order overseas and from Japan expecting no exchanges. Gotta know your stuff or rely on trusted sellers such as Self Edge or Rivet and Hide etc (which we all have time and time qagain, they provide a great service).

But sometimes they don't happen to have an item we may want. That's great they made the exchange with you and the trust involved with this. 

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I feel the need to apologize for the poor quality fit pics in my previous posts. The mirror sits on the floor and is angled against the wall. I try to angle my phone camera to compensate, but my selfie fit pics come out distorted like a Fun House mirror. Exaggerated wide at top and skinny at bottom. Light was terrible that day too. It's hard to tell the differences from one cut to the next, and they all look like I'm wearing yoga pants, LOL :P I need to find a better way... :unsure:

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Glad to read that! :-)

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https://www.wsj.com/articles/trump-administration-moves-to-end-deep-discounts-for-packages-from-china-1539791629

WASHINGTON—The Trump administration opened a new front in Washington’s economic conflict with China, starting a process Wednesday to withdraw from a 144-year-old international postal body whose discounts allow Chinese merchants to ship small packages to U.S. customers at steeply discounted rates.

https://www.reuters.com/article/usa-postoffice-trump/update-1-trump-pulling-out-of-treaty-that-cut-rates-for-foreign-postal-deliveries-to-u-s-idUSL2N1WX0RG

Edited by mlwdp

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Question: is there not a dedicated denim jacket thread? Just tried searching and didn't come up with anything.
I know most discussion here is organized by brand, but it would be nice to have one place to discuss all brands.
Anyways, what denim jackets are you guys into these days? I'm looking for another jacket to add to my rotation.
My climate dictates that I can usually just wear a lighter weight denim jacket and flannel or tee and I'm covered for most of the fall/winter.
My most worn one being my TCB 50's jacket and I also have an IH x Self Edge overdyed type III.
I'm thinking I will go for a type I to complete the trifecta. Although I wouldn't be opposed to another type II to be honest.
I'd love one from Warehouse but I don't think the size 42 would be big enough. Or maybe it could, the measurements don't look too far off from ideal.
Of course I could go for a CSF 406XXX M-46, but the wait time is a bummer and the lack of measurements scare me.
My dream would be for Ooe Yofukuten to make a type I or II! 
Anyways, if there's a brand I'm overlooking for a good type I that comes up to about 46 in. in the chest I'd love suggestions. :ph34r:

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The What about Jean Jackets thread is usually updated but I think the last post was in September or August.

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Their is a thread for just jean jackets, I can't remember the exact title though. 

I've been wearing my Flat Head 6006W whenever I can. It's the type II with some type III style to it. It's not everyone's cup of tea but I like it a lot. Some good fading going on for the amount of time I've worn it as well.

I was looking at the TCB type II earlier, looks like a great jacket. The denim on it looks like it ages great, and it's not overly heavy from what I've read. 

 

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I've always really liked the 6002W jacket, but the front seams on the 6006W kill that one for me personally.
Moving the discussion over to the dedicated denim jacket thread that I somehow missed. :rolleyes:

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Didn't know where else to post this, so here goes:

I recently got a pair of Workers lot 801 from Denimio, and parts of the selvedge edges seem to sort of curve/twist inwards. See pic for a better understanding.

Has anyone else experienced this? Both legs has this kind of twisting, all though it is not consistent the through the whole leg. Kinda sucks not showing the proper contrasting selvedge thread when cuffing the jeans, but I can't really justify this being enough to return them. 

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Edited by garsag

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Is it sewn down that way or just curled underneath due to washing/shrinking and skewing of the fabric?
You could probably take an iron and press it out. I'd just roll with it myself if it's not sewn down.

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Anybody here get annoyed when their favorite online overseas shop all of a sudden uses a different model when you've be accustomed using the previous model's measurements as they match with yours?  Nothing pisses me off more than when I find a model who wears the same sizes as me, which I use for purchases, who no longer shows up and they use a different model with different measurements while wearing a different size.  It's even more annoying when they use a woman to model the clothes.  It's cool that they show women can wear the same clothes and look cute, but when I'm trying to visualize how it would work on me based on my measurements and how it would look when worn, it's annoying.

Case in point, you find a model that wears the same size as you with identical or very close measurements as you, magically disappears later and they use another model with different measurements to model the clothes.

I'm not pointing fingers to any shops in particular.  Just an observance.

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8 hours ago, garsag said:

Didn't know where else to post this, so here goes:

I recently got a pair of Workers lot 801 from Denimio, and parts of the selvedge edges seem to sort of curve/twist inwards. See pic for a better understanding.

Has anyone else experienced this? Both legs has this kind of twisting, all though it is not consistent the through the whole leg. Kinda sucks not showing the proper contrasting selvedge thread when cuffing the jeans, but I can't really justify this being enough to return them. 

IMG_4698.jpg

 

8 hours ago, Broark said:

Is it sewn down that way or just curled underneath due to washing/shrinking and skewing of the fabric?
You could probably take an iron and press it out. I'd just roll with it myself if it's not sewn down.

yup, this can happen during washing if they are not ironed properly or when ironed shoddy, but also due to the selvedge structure itself.
don't forget, jeans are work garments and as such often produced like work garments: cheap & efficient. some of the early garments and brands had their outseam not pressed or pressed open at all.

take an iron on cotton-setting (preferably with steam), close the seam allowance while straightening-out the ceases with the iron, then iron the seam allowance open again.

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I just impulse bought a pair of 1966 LVC 501s - thought that I should have a final bit of Cone denim in the collection. At almost $450 Canadian after exchange and shipping, did I make a huge mistake?

 

 

Edited by zwer

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@zwerThey are great jeans but that price sounds quite heavy, I've had them for around £100gpb on sale.

Edited by bod

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A couple months ago I went to the Silverthorne Outlet to try some new sizes and styles. The very first pair of STF 501's I picked up was Cone Denim selvedge. I thought "ok cool, the STF are still selvedge...". Well that was the only pair in the store. I called to the other CO outlets and the flagship store in Denver, and none of them had STF 501 selvedge. I checked other western/workwear stores that I know carry STF, and none had selvedge either. Looks like I scored sort of a unicorn. And they were supposed to be in the sale section, and the store was running an additional sale, so I got them for about $28.

Made in Mexico. Comparing them to my LVC 1976, they are not far off. There are some construction details that have been simplified and no back pocket rivets. Denim is similar. Otherwise, very well made. I also copped a non-selvedge pair (in fit pics a few posts above). They are noticeable not quite as good as this selvedge pair. I'll keep them unwashed with tags on for my meager collection. 

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Yeah - I used to buy the 501 STF from Fred Meyer way back in the day. They always shrank to unwearable, but I think it's mostly because I didn't know what I was doing.

LVC jeans mostly aren't available in Canada, so I ordered from Unionmade. We get the pre-washed distressed stuff and a lot of t-shirts and sweatshirts.

I'm kind of looking forward to having a pair of redline selvedge in the quiver, since I mostly wear PBJ and now the ONI Aizumis I'm killing this winter.

Edited by zwer

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