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They have most everything right on these 1880 knappaves. Dr H gave me the big thumbs up so I pulled the trigger on them and they are really nice. I PMed Dr H to ask most of the same questions you just asked. It has the right rivets (flat head) the correct leather patch (its really nice too) yoke (single needle) plain selvedge, my belt is not to long and white stitching, killer arcuate on the back pocket. Dr H did I get everything right and would you like to add anything?

I think you've pretty much got it all there, Airfrog.

The leather patch is not white like the oldest/oldest - but it's embossed, rather than printed !

The denim pockets are killer too.

From the original pix they seem VERY accurate - white stitch, watch pocket raised to waistband and a really good early Arcuate. Also, as Airfrog pointed out - correct rivets stamped 'pat may 1873'.

From pix I've seen of a pair of repros sold on ebay last year, the fade will be the best part of these. The denim is fantastic!

Here's some pix of one of the two original pairs -

017.jpg

018-1.jpg

019.jpg

Hope this helps?

.

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Thanks a million Airfrog and Dr Heech! It's good to know those Knappaves are pretty accurate. Can't wait to get a pair. Tried to +rep you both again, but I have to spread it around first.

No probs, also here's the only two pix I have of mine. Will be getting my camera back soon, so let me know if you need any more pix and I'll put it on my ' to do ' list.

001-2.jpg

003-3.jpg

.

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This video has the exact the fit I am going for.....and pretty cool but sad video too and please dont think I am spammin

http://vimeo.com/8191217

I know these aren't selvedge but I am wondering more about the cut the anything and then hope that this cut is available in the LVC collection

Those just appear to be the "last generation" 501 STF cut, probably bought true to size. Loose straight fit from the waistband down, with a high rise. Check your local department stores, like Sears, Kohls, etc. Oh, and thanks for making me choke up with that video you fucker. I would neg rep but I don't take sufu quite that seriously.

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I noticed that Cultizm has the 1920 201 available for order now, and the description says "Measurements: runs one inch smaller than tagged size, e.g. 32 is measured 31 inch." which is interesting... http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p126_Levi-acute-s-reg--1920-201-JEAN-RIGID.html

Does someone know if the 1920 201 from cultizm the same cut that is referred to the 1922 201 from "Paul T's 501 Visual Guide thread?" If so that would mean that the sizing has changed - or are these different jeans 1920 and 1922?

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I noticed that Cultizm has the 1920 201 available for order now, and the description says "Measurements: runs one inch smaller than tagged size, e.g. 32 is measured 31 inch." which is interesting... http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p126_Levi-acute-s-reg--1920-201-JEAN-RIGID.html

Does someone know if the 1920 201 from cultizm the same cut that is referred to the 1922 201 from "Paul T's 501 Visual Guide thread?" If so that would mean that the sizing has changed - or are these different jeans 1920 and 1922?

Runormal

afaik, there are only three production runs of the 1920's 201.

The valencia street 201's (555) which are true to tag, the 2005 model (wrong arcs) runs nearly two inches oversize, and the ones that cultizm probably has (2007) are one inch oversize (waist+length) - I just bought a pair from Oki-ni and my tagged 34/34 measure 35/34.75". The wash/care label reads SE07 (2007).

Will do some comparison pix of the 555's and '07 v. soon.

.

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Just received my 55's from cultizm. Does anybody know what year/season they are? The reason I ask is that the 55's I bought earlier this year did not have the made in USA tag on them, and they never came with the book. Here's some pics.

4290870696_f19ee437fd_o.jpg

4290870694_7df9c6a259.jpg

4290870698_09aec9bafa_o.jpg4290870704_a0ebcbd406_o.jpg

My 55s came today, and they have the same tags. Will take photos at lunch to enter them in the cultizm contest and then hot wash them tonight. They're a size 38x34. If anyone wants any measurements, please let me know asap. I plan on at least measuring the waist and inseam. I'm guessing right now that the waist is 41" (cultizm said 40"). I possibly could have gone down to a size 36, but these should fit pretty comfortably after a good shrinking.

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just received my 55s from cultizm. waist size 36 measures 40". fuck. they told me the size 34 will measure only 34, but i'm guessing they will be larger than that. about to order a pair

My size 38 meausers around 40.5'. Size 34 inseam is just about right on. Suprising the 36s are that big, I wonder if they're mistagged 38s?

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I purchased the 1915's from oki-ni, decided to wear them today. I snipped the buckle on the cinch, and wtf? what a piece of crap. I'd seen posts about the quality of the buckle but never really took much notice. It really is poor quality. Any suggestions as to how to make it a bit more secure? It feels like it could just fall apart at any time.

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I purchased the 1915's from oki-ni, decided to wear them today. I snipped the buckle on the cinch, and wtf? what a piece of crap. I'd seen posts about the quality of the buckle but never really took much notice. It really is poor quality. Any suggestions as to how to make it a bit more secure? It feels like it could just fall apart at any time.

you can either buy a new buckle from riverjunction.com or you can do what almostnice did, which was make a new pointy piece out of a single piece of welding wire. he documented it very well a few pages back.

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My 55s came today, and they have the same tags. Will take photos at lunch to enter them in the cultizm contest and then hot wash them tonight. They're a size 38x34. If anyone wants any measurements, please let me know asap. I plan on at least measuring the waist and inseam. I'm guessing right now that the waist is 41" (cultizm said 40"). I possibly could have gone down to a size 36, but these should fit pretty comfortably after a good shrinking.

Setterman, could you give waist and hem measurements (pre or post soak, whichever)? Thinking about getting a pair of 38x36 for relaxed summer work jeans.

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Setterman, could you give waist and hem measurements (pre or post soak, whichever)? Thinking about getting a pair of 38x36 for relaxed summer work jeans.

Raw waist is 40.5" and inseam is 34". Will get you post hot wash measurements tonight.

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I always liked how the raw has a lot of streaking coupled w/ herringbone texture along w/ the gun metal indigo, but wondered how they'd look after soak. Well, those characteristics not only remain after soak, but are even more accentuated giving your jeans a fantastic old-world vibe. Too, the grayish gun metal transformed into an intense blue creating super contrast with your wear marks. Great stuff Airfrog -- I mean it don't get much better.

IMG_8252.jpg

IMG_8254.jpg

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I always liked how the raw has a lot of streaking coupled w/ herringbone texture along w/ the gun metal indigo, but wondered how they'd look after soak. Well, those characteristics not only remain after soak, but are even more accentuated giving your jeans a fantastic old-world vibe. Too, the grayish gun metal transformed into an intense blue creating super contrast with your wear marks. Great stuff Airfrog -- I mean it don't get much better.

IMG_8252.jpg

IMG_8254.jpg

Thanks but these photos are after the soak. I shot these photos a couple days after I soaked them.

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I think it's fair to quote Ralph Tharpe from Cone, who make the denim here. I sent him the link for airfrog's jeans and said how everyone rates the 1915 fabric. I don't think he'd say this officially, as it sounds boastful, but he told me "XX15 IS the most awesome selvage we have ever made."

He is a wonderful man, though, as he also points out how it could be even closer to the oriinal: " However, the weft yarn is a bit too even and the denim lacks the neps caused by the old picker process."

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thanks airfrog and serkis - unfortunately caliroots is out of sz30 which is what i need (i'm a w32) as i heard from Dejan and a few other sources that these oversized by 2 inches.

appreciate the help though =)

Bunga, beware of the tag size on the '15s -- size 30 tag will run anywhere from 2-4 inches larger on the measure. If you want a real cool pair of LVC, I recommend the '33 and there's a pair on ebay now w/ about 1 day before close. I emailed the seller and the dude tells me they measure W30 X L33.75. Just a hair bit too small for me otherwise I'd get them even though I already have a pair. Aside from what I consider cheap susp. buttons, they're great quality jeans super comfortable and you gotta dig the stylized arcs. Descent price plus free shipping check out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-LEVIS-501XX-JEANS-1933-CINCH-BACK-RED-RARE-30x34_W0QQitemZ140378287447QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_CSA_MC_Jeans?hash=item20af32ad57

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... these photos are after the soak. I shot these photos a couple days after I soaked them.

Yeah, I know they're after soak. BTW, tried to rep, but this damn sufu won't register my reps, don't know if it's delayed or what -- keeps giving me 'done but with error' error msg whatever that means-- happens all the time whever I rep someone wtf?? Thanks again for the fotos bro...

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Cultizm has the S/S 2010 1947 501. They call it Deadstock but don't mention Cone or any manufacturer. Is the S/S 1947 501 different in any way from the previous season and who made the denim? Thanks

Cone, as before. They have always made the fabric for the 1927 and later 501 reissues - as they did for the orignal jeans. COne recently introduced the 1915, and from this season will make the denim for the earlier models, which previously used Kurabo fabric.

Kaihara continue to make the 505 fabric and I guess the 551Z and others sanforized reissues.

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I'll be damned, the Cultizm has the 201 in my size. What I don't understand is that I thought these were sold out everywhere about a yr ago, yet now cultizm has a complete invemtory w/ wider selection of sizes. Does this mean that the 201 is part of the s/s 2010 line up or did Cultizm run across a hidden stash somewhere?

I noticed that Cultizm has the 1920 201 available for order now, and the description says "Measurements: runs one inch smaller than tagged size, e.g. 32 is measured 31 inch." which is interesting... http://www.cultizm.com/product_info.php?info=p126_Levi-acute-s-reg--1920-201-JEAN-RIGID.html

Does someone know if the 1920 201 from cultizm the same cut that is referred to the 1922 201 from "Paul T's 501 Visual Guide thread?" If so that would mean that the sizing has changed - or are these different jeans 1920 and 1922?

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I recommend the '33 and there's a pair on ebay now w/ about 1 day before close. I emailed the seller and the dude tells me they measure W30 X L33.75. Just a hair bit too small for me otherwise I'd get them even though I already have a pair. Aside from what I consider cheap susp. buttons, they're great quality jeans super comfortable and you gotta dig the stylized arcs. Descent price plus free shipping check out:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VTG-LEVIS-501XX-JEANS-1933-CINCH-BACK-RED-RARE-30x34_W0QQitemZ140378287447QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_CSA_MC_Jeans?hash=item20af32ad57

Noticed that the pair of '33s that you linked to are missing the NRA tag from under the leather patch AND also that the inside leg tag is NOT an LVC one, atleast not a recent one.. looks like the same tag from the modern STF 501s. Maybe these are in league with the recent Type I jackets that were released but came with little "e" and inferior denim. Or maybe...fake (I beat everyone to it, hurray!!).

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Cone, as before. They have always made the fabric for the 1927 and later 501 reissues - as they did for the orignal jeans. COne recently introduced the 1915, and from this season will make the denim for the earlier models, which previously used Kurabo fabric.

Kaihara continue to make the 505 fabric and I guess the 551Z and others sanforized reissues.

Thank you, Paul.

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Noticed that the pair of '33s that you linked to are missing the NRA tag from under the leather patch AND also that the inside leg tag is NOT an LVC one, atleast not a recent one.. looks like the same tag from the modern STF 501s. Maybe these are in league with the recent Type I jackets that were released but came with little "e" and inferior denim. Or maybe...fake (I beat everyone to it, hurray!!).

Some of the US market jeans do carry that tag. Dr Heech might kniw what year these are from, there was at least one without the NRA tag. They're legit I believe, the fabric is very distinctive. Comes out a very royal blue.

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Noticed that the pair of '33s that you linked to are missing the NRA tag from under the leather patch AND also that the inside leg tag is NOT an LVC one, atleast not a recent one.. looks like the same tag from the modern STF 501s. Maybe these are in league with the recent Type I jackets that were released but came with little "e" and inferior denim. Or maybe...fake (I beat everyone to it, hurray!!).

The pair I have (Taylor Togs issue "R" on button) are missing the NRA tag too and have the same care tag. Aside from the suspender buttons, everything about mine is superior quality especially the denim. I'm no expert, but I'd wager to say that they are neither fakes nor lower budget version.

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... these photos are after the soak. I shot these photos a couple days after I soaked them.

Yeah, I know they're after soak. BTW, tried to rep, but this damn sufu won't register my reps, don't know if it's delayed or what -- keeps giving me 'done but with error' error msg whatever that means-- happens all the time whever I rep someone wtf?? Thanks again for the fotos bro...

I've tried to rep several people including you recently and I gotta spread it around. I'll post more in May.

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I think it's fair to quote Ralph Tharpe from Cone, who make the denim here. I sent him the link for airfrog's jeans and said how everyone rates the 1915 fabric. I don't think he'd say this officially, as it sounds boastful, but he told me "XX15 IS the most awesome selvage we have ever made."

He is a wonderful man, though, as he also points out how it could be even closer to the oriinal: " However, the weft yarn is a bit too even and the denim lacks the neps caused by the old picker process."

Paul its the best LVC denim from LVC cone I've seen if the denim for the 333s comes from somewhere else. Other wise that would be a tough choice.

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