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Levi's Vintage Clothing

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@srudy I decided to try and get them to work for me. Didn't want the hassle of tracking down another 201xx for a decent price. 

They stretched out an inch in the waist, and also in the seat and thigh. I was really surprised by that. Fit me great now. 

Cheers! 

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@crownzip

Your fades and results are the most consistent of just about any poster here. You have great patience (and you must have a very understanding missus) to wear for so long without washing.

Same with those 1930 lee cowboy pair.

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@crownzip how did the denim feel evolve?

What I notice most from my 555 201xx's is how substantial the denim is. Real crinkly and stout. Looks like yours softened up a lot, but still looks stout! 

Cheers.

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Yes, she's very patient as long as I air out or finally wash any denim that gets smelly. I've also managed to find some nice vintage Lee and Levi's denim in her size so she's come to appreciate quality denim.

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1 minute ago, JMS said:

Hey JMS, In general I've found the old Cone Mills denim from the LVC Valencia St days quite substantial and robust, whether it's 1947 501xx or these 201xx denim. It stands up to a ton of use and only gives up wear with time and patience, much like vintage denim. On the other hand, today's Japanese made denim seems designed to wear and fade quickly which I guess some people like. 

 

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Posted (edited)

10b2841365417417.jpg 2205491365417455.jpg a0456d1365417518.jpg c1434b1365417567.jpg 

Cone denim Levis 1890s 501; one year ago and today. 
 

90 days wear and 158 days wear respectively.. one very light bathtub wash (with hardly any Mr Black denim wash) at 133 days wear, I wasn’t planning to wash them so soon but they were so dirty with all the dirt and ash i engrained into them, wiped oil on the legs as well as old candle wax. I only treated these “miner jeans” this harshly..

Edited by andyrcii

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Posted (edited)

The yokes on the later versions of Turkey made 505s are 1/2 inch lower than the earlier Turkey made versions. Personally, I like low yokes. It also happened on the Taylor Togs 501s. The difference are in the pics on W32 L34s and W30 L34. It has taken a couple of weeks of wearing for the higher yoke size 30s to stretch out. The lower yoke size 30s arrived from Japan yesterday and they will be a struggle. However the lower yoke oily denim W32s  stretched enormously with wear so fingers crossed for the W30s. 

IMG_20210107_0817132.jpg

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Edited by Dry
Typo

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On 1/2/2021 at 6:34 PM, JMS said:

@srudy I decided to try and get them to work for me. Didn't want the hassle of tracking down another 201xx for a decent price. 

They stretched out an inch in the waist, and also in the seat and thigh. I was really surprised by that. Fit me great now. 

Cheers! 

That was to be expected and the right decision.

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a893871366387687.jpg 1d84c81366387769.jpg 9b21301366387876.jpg 3181d91366387948.jpg 479f6e1366388042.jpg 5932fd1366388091.jpg 13af411366388148.jpg dc61361366388242.jpg 

Check out these 1944 555s I got..  I made the mistake of thinking they were originally raw and that the 32W 34L after quite a lot of washing would be a good fit for me. 
they have to be a prewash though because they are BAGGY.. you can still see the screen printed arcs on the edges a bit. Patch gone, and no dark blue underneath.. another possible tell tale that these were sanforised. 
 

Not sure what I will do with them, maybe take them in, keep them as they are, maybe for denim for any future patching requirements. The crotch could use some attention, it has previously been fixed.. I don’t know if the baggy grunge look is growing on me maybe..

Edited by andyrcii

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What made you think they would be raw, were no photos available? You may want to keep them though to look ‘on trend’ as LVC are revisiting the baggy Madchester scene of the late 80s for their new collection.

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Of course there were photos.. I thought they were a genuine fade, not pre faded. Though many bits are genuine fades like the pocket rivet fades. Maybe they were “new rinse” originally, who knows. My point is, fake fades usually don’t look good, and I usually spot them.

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I would assume that an extremely faded/worn pair had more likely been washed at some point than not. 

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Exactly. But not if they were sanforized and then labelled a 32 inch waist

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If they were genuinely faded Valencia St ‘44s, then they would be made from shrink-to-fit denim, not sanforized. Only pre-distressed/faded ‘44s would use sanforized denim.

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Stash them in your closet - they'll fit one day. 

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https://blogs.chapman.edu/huell-howser-archives/1994/12/10/california-companies-californias-gold-503/

 

Someone posted this program from 1994 on reddit the other day where the host visits the Valencia Street factory. Would this be the early day of what eventually becomes Levi's Vintage Clothing as domestic production of the standard STF 501 stopped around 93-94? 

What's disappointing though, is that the seamstress interviewed describes being paid in "piece work" which is the popular garment industry technique of paying workers on a per-piece basis, which many factories use to subvert minimum wage law. You'd think a clothing brand that's been well established for 100+ years and sells the world's most popular piece of clothing could at least guarantee their workers a standard wage. 

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Interesting video about Valencia st.. I recognised those same “found in a mine” jeans straightaway from this video. They weren’t all “white gloves and safes” back in the 90s..

 

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^thanks for posting guys - nice to see the good ol' Calico mine pair being dragged out again (no, honestly l dont mind) but couldn't we just of had a few close ups of the tow rope pair (lm presuming 30's??)  - come on Levis bring back Lynn Downey, cos Tracey Panek is all over the shop (why talk about just the crotch rivet disappearing on the WW2 example, what about the cinch etc?) .. and breathe.

@cusswords thanks for posting mate, lovely to see all the old Valencia st staff at it, place looks and sounds amazing, still can't believe they just up and sold it, even now. Feel so lucky to have copped a few pairs still made by them.

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@cusswords Thanks for posting, I missed this episode of Huel, that’s a young Lynn Downey, I wrote her a letter 2 years later, pretty sure by 1996, they dropped the idea of them holding the patent for 34 years...I know they were still saying 1886 was the first leather label.

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I decided to keep the 1944's. they reminded me of Kurt Cobains jeans from MTV Live and Loud, ones he called his "rap jeans". I paired them with this Lee 101 Rider jacket.

I'll never wear them much until my other jeans are more worn in, but they do have a nice "retro" fade, much softer and machine washed but pretty good. wallet fade, and if you look carefully there are actually some knee creases. early ish LVC so they aren't accurate as later 1944 recreations. the buttons aren't right, and the red tab though single sided, has an (R) on it. 

c9a6961366477911.jpg bb14b81366477915.jpg 937dc31366477918.jpg 7bf9041366477919.jpg 

Edited by andyrcii

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@andyrcii Spotted that listing too. Tempted to ask the seller for a photo of the care tags followed by some smart response along the lines of how great they look for 70yr old tags, but couldn’t be arsed. Hopefully he doesn’t catch somebody out with these. 

Also, shoes on the bed in your fitpic - shocking behaviour :biggrin: . Even if they aren’t your usual fit now, that may change in years to come and you may rue offloading a pair of loose-fitting 555s. I second keeping them. 

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According to the description, there is no care tag.

I did call the seller out on these, He claimed they were “verified” by Bonhams of London yet offered no proof of this, claimed to be an expert on vintage clothing yet offers no detailed photos of the inside of the jeans.. 

 

then claimed to not know what a phone fade was. I wasn’t accusing him of them being fakes (particularly).. I was just curious as to how they got what is obviously to my eyes, a phone fade. Ah well.

and you are right, I didn’t want to let those 555s go.

 

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The print on the label is too small, the 501 XX is tiny, plus rivets that shiny from that time period...next to impossible.

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All I've been wearing since the New Year. Levi's 506 J22, (Japanese market), 5 button model. Made in '96? 

Shown here in two different white balances, trying to capture the depth of the hue. Fantastic texture too. Loving the fit, properly boxy. 

Cheers! 

20210113_095255.jpg

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2 hours ago, andyrcii said:

According to the description, there is no care tag.

I did call the seller out on these, He claimed they were “verified” by Bonhams of London yet offered no proof of this, claimed to be an expert on vintage clothing yet offers no detailed photos of the inside of the jeans.. 

 

then claimed to not know what a phone fade was. I wasn’t accusing him of them being fakes (particularly).. I was just curious as to how they got what is obviously to my eyes, a phone fade. Ah well.

and you are right, I didn’t want to let those 555s go.

 

Bonhams vintage levis experts ?

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