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Sometimes you think that ship as sailed...and then you stumble across something on Yahoo 😅 First I didn't recognise what it was exactly. So I ignored the listing. Then I saw it again and it dawned on me that this is something unique. You can have a guess if you like 😁

Once again in the work lift. On the way to post 2 x new jeans for hemming. 🤩 Yeti // old scarf // Buzz Rickson // Warehouse T // TCB 50's // Asahi *underdressed for Leeds today - sleet / hail and a mega cold breeze! WTF is this?!

New Indigofera Copeland, in an awesome beige stripe on indigo fabric.

Honey I shrunk the fanny pack About 2/3 of the version above - Walpier Buttero and Walpier Box leathers, AustriAlpin ‘Cobra’ hardware, Japanese twill lining and a drawstring bag with the remnants of the fabric

TCB / Buaisou / Canes / Buckweat / Rototo and IH belt with Duke buckle (not visible)

Went to a vintage fest and antique store with my girlfriend today. Got his n hers garfield keychains, a cool puffer vest, a flick tricks for my friend who grew up on a bmx bike, and also found my favorite hot wheel from my childhood still boxed up with the hauler I never knew it came with. Also saw a few cool ratty lookin vans. Good day.

I finally found an Orrizonti era WWII pair. Denim has a completely different weight and feel from 66 and XX. Curious what you know of this pair BF. Awesome details, wonky pocket shape with my dream of a shorter rise to round out a perfect-for-me 40s fit. And yes there is a bit of aging on the denim from sun and rubbing on creases.

FW 27 type 1 mf awa ai nicks boots

My job here is done. 100% correct! Apart from the oxidized rivets, yes ☺️ In Denime's 60s pairs I prefer a W36. My 66XXs are W36 as well. And these are a BigE model, so 60s.

Great pick up @Graytrain! The sun fades just add to the character. There are floating w30 and w31 around on Yahoo but not many in a good condition (although I think there's a W31 one-wash for 50k available right now...) As you probably know, there is not much info around. The denim is different to the XX and 66 denim. It is lighter, I think 13.5oz or so. And it will fade more into a lighter blue. Not as white/grey like Denime usually does. Edit: it was a W30. Here it is https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/b1132290997/

Levis Electric Wizard shirt DIY Blundstones

FW skid row Nicks belt MF Sugar Cane Awa Ai

SDA, FW, WH, Lee and Puma

Damn, you are right! Didn't check my Tokyo model. So it's still some kind of detail for special models. The leather of the patch also seems to be different to the standard models. But no idea what animal it is from. Measurements: W36 Waist: 36.5" Front rise: 12" Back rise: 16" Thighs: 14" Knee: 9.5" Leg opening: 9" Inseam: 35.75"

The following models have the thin X on the patch according to photos in that Lightning Denim Book. There may be others but the photos are too small to tell: Tokyo Kyoto 1988E new 505 new WW2 15th anniversary 606

Also, the thin ‘X’ on the patch rather than the thick, outline ‘X’ that represents XX models indicates that they’re not a 66XX pair doesn’t it? I hope that makes sense 🫠

Nope, not at all. They just wrote about an "uncle" that had these stored away. On first sight I just thought "another 66XX in deadstock condition, oh well". Then, on the second sight I noticed the leather patch looking off...and of course a L36 is not on the 66XX. Then the V-stitch and I knew they are the 15th anniversary.

Are you planning on gaining weight to fit these BF? 😆

Wow, pristine condition.

^ 15th anniversary pair from 2003?

I’m surprised no-one has snapped up these W33 Kyotos for an attractive price. I can’t quite tell from the photos but they look nearly new.

Thanks Doc

Sorry for the odd ordering.

really love the cut/fit of the 1927 type 1

I’ve been called a criminal by two different Japanese shops for asking that…

John Lofgren Engineers after 3 months in ...

My Libra Pondus have arrived. The story of the order is full of unusual details. The packaging in Japanese paper and metal box to store and protect the kimono is unique in itself. Not to mention that Isamu san's blog features quotes from Schopenhauer and Goethe... 🙃

Sorry for the double post but eclipse yesterday. We didn’t get totality here but at 98.5% coverage it was still pretty wonderful. FW/FC/Tender

Not too often I've a record of myself made by someone else but my friend got me over the weekend in a FW Tux. jacket is the s516xx and 601 1951's I just posted in the FW thread.

Kirk in Gunpowder. I wore these for these probably 3-4 months straight about 2 years ago, they got dirty and I tried to spot clean some areas which just really took off the dye in a noticeable way. After that I said screw it and just wore and washed like any other clothes and they were my main jeans for a few months when I was learning ceramics. Rolled with the marbling and everything. They’re beater jeans now but I actually like them more than ever at the moment. These were really slow to shrink - to the point that I was not actually believing they were unsanforized (still not sure) - but they did end up shrinking about 2” in the inseam and definitely a bit all over after all.

Hat is merch from my friends' band Vintage M65 liner Champion DIY jeans Blundstones

Hi @Alec Leamas I have both the 11.5 and 13.7, and the difference is substantial. I've had the 13.7 for a few months and never "got it" with them. I couldn't find the cuff or the drape was weird to me. I think it's like @Signet says. They take time to settle. This is not the case with the 11.5 super smooth. The 11.5 arrived and showed me what the drape could become like on the stiffer 13.7s. The 11.5 started like they had been broken in. They feel like I'm wearing heavy linen. The hand is wild and so bumpy - but the bump is subtle enough that it is smooth. It feels coated with ultra fine, mildly crunchy polar fleece. It's really cool, light and probably as light as you can get. Because of the 11.5 I was able to figure out where to cuff the heavier pair, and now these 0105 are my favorite cut at the moment. Unbelievable comfort. The super smooth are almost too comfortable. I've handled a lot of fine denims and I think maybe they remind a little of Momotaro 14 Oz but the Momotaro do not stretch. Raleigh Denim, maybe something similar but the Full Count super smooth is not as tightly woven. It's not a terrible amount of stretch. It does happen in one wear, within the first two steps, and then it seems to plateau. Couple of snaps. Both have been washed twice now. I wanted to get some room out of the super smooth. Even though I sized down to the 29 in the super smooth, they feel looser than the 13.7. I measured them and the 29, after a couple of hot washes measures 30" and the waist 30 in 13.7 measure 31". The super smooth denim gives quite a bit though. I probably could have gone with a 28. The blue on the 11.5 is really deep and smokey. It's not gray smoke, but smoky navy blue. It appears to be deeply saturated. The 13.7 don't have the same depth to the dye, that's the only way I can explain it. From the surface, I can see far more white threads in the 13.7. (Left side is 11.5) (Right side is 13.7) (Left side is 11.5) (Right -top is 13.7) My two cents, get both pair if you can. Start with the 11.5 since it seems newer and maybe not as available soon. Awesome summer weight.

Steamrollers left - someone must be wise enough to snap these up

I love the look of that hat, and you should definitely keep rocking it! I bought a Poten one, so I'm looking forward to it when it looks as good as yours!

Thanks mate 😀

This one?

USN Work Trousers SOLD

Tbh I used to go the inside out rule, but nowadays I just do it hayashi-san style. Wash when needed, nothing turned around and what not. In the end the differences are hard to tell and minimal, if even noticeable, imo. I think there was someone on reddit doing a test on this a few years ago and the results after 2 years or so were hardly noticeable.

There’s a big distinction to draw (which I rarely see drawn, for whatever reason) between the sort of large-scale veining / creasing that happens when rigid denim is put through a harsh wash—think rinsed or dyed Tender Co.—and the sort of small-scale marbling that happens over time when tightly woven denim is put through the washer and dryer repeatedly. I think the latter sort of “marbling” is appealing to a lot of folks here, myself included, whereas the former sort of “marbling” is often seen as more unsightly. Personally, I wash my jeans inside out with low (or no) spin for usually the first half dozen or so washes, until they’re starting to soften up and lighten up appreciably, in order to avoid any big veins. If they’re particularly rigid, I go as far as to get them wet before the first wash. Once they’ve started softening up, anything goes: I think slightly harsher washes help with the good sort of marbling and don’t have any real downsides.

I think it's supposed to reduce indigo loss, I do it out of habit. My two biggest learnings from first-washing many raw jeans over the years are: 1) Get the denim wet before you put it in the machine, I run a pair of jeans under the shower until they're wet through then put them in the machine. I don't know why this helps but it does. 2) If you wash the jeans inside out, let them dry fully inside out too before pulling them the right way out. Wrestling them the right way out when soaking wet seems to harshly fold/crease the denim which has led to weird wash lines for me.

Besides like Tender and Mr Freedom, who else does less traditional cuts? I’m not sure if I want another repro for my next pair

Figured I’d update on here too. I joined the Indigo invitational y4 with a pair of Indigofera Kirk Gunpowder 14oz jeans. First picture is after day 31. Second photo is today after day 59. I haven’t washed or soaked them yet. I never really knew much about this brand until recently, the denim store local to me in Philadelphia stocks a lot of their offerings and it’s really impressive stuff.

Chest bag / fanny pack / sling for my great friend @srudy Badalassi Carlo No Fin, with Japanese cloth lining (and I made a drawstring bag for the bag with that too) and AustriAlpin ‘cobra’ buckle and slides … all hand sewn naturally

RMC/WH Work Uniform

Here’s my wallet stuff. Flat Head Shinki cordovan long wallet Flat Head harness leather key holder Old Point box weave kangaroo leather chain (similar to ones TFH used to make)

Very nice work @Duke Mantee. Meanwhile I finished this

Scotchgrain calfskin with Buttero strap, flap lining and zip reinforcement details, LOXX fastener and antique brass snaps and d-rings

Updated fit pics as promised for the Lot 220A I haven't worn them in earnest so they haven't settled down yet e.g. unruly hem, dryer side crease Really good jeans, though - as per previous notes - there is space on the waist and I wonder if one size down would have been better. Interestingly, they have a similar waist measurement to my FW 1937s... which I like being more relaxed and 'anti-fit'. I was planning on wearing these on the occasional foray into work - which translates, to me, as more closely fitting. Have they sold out in 34s everywhere now? I couldn't spot anywhere with stock. @beautiful_FrEaK would be interested in measurements on your well-worn 34s if you have chance. I'm conscious that losing a bit on the waist, normally means losing a bit on the leg and rises.

Perfect fit BF. Is the denim loomstate or sanforized or preshrunk in any way?

Oh, looks like you've been away for a long time. Recently, acronym has been releasing a lot of low-quality items with QC issues. Sometimes, they trying to hide these issues and give them strange names or even recall. For example, the last QC issue has the name "tensionzip". As mentioned above, u just can't fully zip up. U need to return it back and ask for a refund asap.