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Yes, I got these raw so they shrank quite a bit to the tag size. I never knew the back patch starts off de-bossed before

The discussion above reminds me of why I stick with this hobby -- it's you. Yes, I started out close to 20 years ago looking for a pair of jeans to replace my $39 Levi's 550s bought at Sears. I really didn't care that they had poly stitching or were made in Malaysia. They were just too big and wide. So I took them to the Levi's store in San Francisco and found a wonderful seamstress (Melissa Vu) working in the LVC Dept (long gone). She altered them and they fit perfectly -- I still have them and, truth be told, they fit better than a lot of the jeans I've bought since. And the denim is great too, with a weight and texture that is oddly hard to find (a topic for another discussion). Anyway, I have a few hobbies and what keeps me in them is the people (i.e., not just those who make the product but those who appreciate it). The average person could give a damn beyond, 'Do these jeans look good on me, does my butt look too big?'. The kind of people who care about stitching and rivets are the same people who appreciate what makes a Leica lens special (new or old), or a tube amp sound sweet and liquid, etc.

It looks and feels slightly smoother. I had heard this new version has 2 kinds of warps and the weft is a little thin and twisted harder. Here's the 42s after 2 initial washes

@MJF9 here - it’s sweltering right now so not actually wearing this now, but hopefully again soon. FC0105 super smooth on the bottom, the best summer jeans I’ve found.

Not jeans, but my girlfriend asked me to fix some of her grocery bags and a t-shirt. I don't know if the bags will hold, but it was worth a shot. Only time will tell. As for the shirt, she's gonna have to live with the purple since I didn't feel like threading any white thread onto my serger lol.

Wickett & Craig bridle, sueded veg tan cobra, onyx and carnelian gemstones and antique nickel hardware

One of the best belts ever made imo Sadly don't own one .... yet - Horween bison leather - oxidised .925 silver nail hardwear Made in LA

My Daddy Day fit and a Father's Day gift from my son. Happy Belated Fathers Day folks! Future Monsters x Ebbets Field cap Bandana and vintage ring bolo Suede fringed vest 1970s NYU tee Vintage belt w/fancy buckle Turquoise blanket pin Sized up STF 501 1950s Nocona pee wee My Fathers Day gift from my boy: a perfectly sun faded OG 1977 Star Wars promo tee.

My only hope: as long as people are interested in the original (read vintage Levi's 501s) there will be a certain demand for repro jeans.

And the fit, paired with the early Evis 2501xx with arcs

I think this is 14-15 years old now. Tanner golden natural prototype Mike sent me. It’s taken on a bit of a curve.

^ I can recommend Son of a Stag and Rivet & Hide - both do an excellent job and I’ve good experience of them. I’ve never tried Clutch Cafe but I have no doubts they’d be up to the mark too. Why not email/message all 3 in advance and ask if anyone can do it while you wait? You may also prefer whichever one is closer to where you’re staying. Where are you staying?

There’s always been a part of the whole…online milieu…that’s been a really weird and uncomfortable seeming bunch. Take a few wrong turns down various denim adjacent rabbit holes (nostalgia, for instance) and you can end up in some bad places.

Yes I have a old evisus no1 new yaman labour and yaman industry and it’s all the same denim will take photos and post when I get time

I just got mine in too. The '51 cut is so good, for me at least. Just the perfect balance of everything. I think if I could only have one pair it would have to be of that cut.

same cut

The 800 is made with a different denim that is ~14.5oz. It also feels like a tighter weave. I think that’s why the inseam shrinks less on a pair of 800s compared to a pair of jeans made with the Banner Denim. My 1001hxx are Banner Denim and the inseam shrunk from 35” to 31.5” over 3 years. It’s easy to stretch the inseam 0.5”-1” if needed.

SOLD——For those interested, I have an extra worn pair of Ooe Yofukuten X Standard and Strange Boss Overall jeans denim size 33 waist pulled tight-16 inseam-32 some fades developing, but in overall pretty good shape. I’d do 200 shipped in the US, and these are rare

@Broark & @Duke Mantee, looking closer I realized that the confusion was on my end. The catalog number given in the listing looked like a plausible FW item number, so I assumed that that’s what it was—but scrolling through some of their other (non-FW) listings it’s clear that it was just the seller’s own inventory number. Probably should have been obvious from the start. No funny business after all, and good to see some closure of sorts. Anyway, I did end up buying the bag.

I did not get my Duck Digger pair new or raw so I only know the end point, but they've plateaued at 80-81 cm which is pretty consistent with Hinoya's estimate of 7 cm shrinkage assuming that my pair also started at 88 cm. I wish that they were 2" longer though - at my height I have no choice but to wear them Hayashi-style

Nothing has shrunk as much on additional washes as my 1003xx, and I got them one wash!

Love the cars! I'm really into older cars, I recently picked up a mid 90s Oldsmobile wagon with low mileage in great condition, and just love it. Not nearly as old school as these cars of course, but the design dates from the mid-80s. I'd love to own a big ridiculous cozy mid-60s to mid-70s land yacht like the one in the first pic someday. I really like Oldsmobile, Buick, Mercury, the mid-level luxury American cars.

Nice, you know what to do now................Fitpics

Warehouse 1001xx shrink additionally on following washes.

Came here to say this same thing!!

FYI seems like there’s a restock of non-wash pairs at Hinoya.

Diacock is still loved

Size of the Phigvel pocket

Got some new stuff in Tokyo and since my trip too: koverall jacket and painter pants ivory herringbone work trousers linen/cotton work trousers black sports jacket Java rayon shirt

To offer somewhat of a different perspective here that has little to do with old repros per se, nostalgia is a powerful drug. The search for “authenticity” is often a search for feelings one had as a youth, when everything was more exciting because one was young and because there is a sense of discovery at that age that there won’t be when you’ve lived longer, and seen more. It’s not to say that the pursuit of nostalgia is problematic, but one will simply never recreate the feelings of that age. It is a chapter in life. Now we are in a new chapter. There are plenty of brands here that I would contend exude the passion some probably found in the original Osaka 5 works. And maybe young people finding them today will have the same feelings about them twenty years from now. Tender, Freewheelers, and Ooe, (and TCB as noted) for example - all know how to do IG , yes, but they also clearly and patently make what they love and it shows in the clothes - those of us that have them probably appreciate them largely for this reason. There are things from the past worth holding on to, but we can’t completely. I also don’t mean to take anything away from collecting older models - if that’s your jam, by all means. It’s fun to go searching and find a treasure, absolutely. It just doesn’t mean that there isn’t something out right now that lacks that same magic. These are just perceptions. I use Leica digital Monochromes for my work. I use them because damn are the files so much better than a 35mm negative, and they make pictures possible that weren’t before. I’m stubborn and want the camera to feel like the sort I used for years, but that’s the irrational part of me. They are an objective improvement compared to the negatives you’d get from tri-x run through an analog M, and the prints (that I do digitally) have their own unique and beautiful presence that a silver print differs from (not better or worse). But, I came up shooting film for a good while, I shot it for work when I had the budget, had to turn around that shit on deadline for magazines stubbornly when digital was in full force already because 10 years ago medium format film still had a very demonstrable advantage - as of about the 36 and 40 mp sensors in the D800 series or the Sony A7R series, it was gone. And I was happy to let it go. I still have my Rolleiflexes and M6, beautiful mechanical objects but they sit in a case because as photographic tools they’re not as good for most purposes. (Some specific purposes - I’ll never tell someone what they need - I’m sure can be found). If one enjoys the process more, that’s great. Enjoying the process is the most important part of making things, most of the time. But careful not to hold an idea that it’s somehow something more real or pure because it’s older or slower etc. And there’s nothing that stops one from being deliberate on a digital camera. I get that the roll of film presents a hard limit on things, but there’s nothing stopping one from just shooting a few deliberately made pictures even if you can make 1000. Yes, we are awash in more plastic and more fakery and more advertising than ever, and it can make the good stuff hard to find, but it’s more out there than ever. Maybe this is because I work in the arts but there is great new work being made now, all of the time, and the idea of “the good old days” is a mirage that will never materialize because the way it exists in one’s head now is different than it was even then. Realizing this probably belongs in the “nonsense” thread - mods feel free to move, or delete even if this is too insufferable ha.

Some of the conversation here feels in the spirit of some of the philosophical thoughts (both clothing/style and otherwise) that I've been thinking about during late nights with my son. Here is my screed. There are all sorts of different reasons that lead people to choose the items that they wear. They may dress a certain way due to economics, aesthetics, to generate "likes", to blend in, to stand out, to convey affinity or membership in a particular subculture, because they just enjoy wearing particular items for the sake of it, etc. Obviously, these reasons are not all mutually exclusive. In the image and click based world of today, arguably certain reasons are privileged more than others. In an Instagram fit pic, a pair of vintage Evis Lot 2501 No. 1 (as an example pertinent to this thread) will be more or less indistinguishable from a pair of modern day Levis or mall brand jeans and would generate no more likes or hype, as opposed to say the Oni Asphalt fabric. In the real world though, their is an intangible element to those Evis that can only be experienced through love and wear - the tactile experience of the fabric, the history, the passion, dedication, and craftsmanship of the creator. This goes beyond clothing as well, at least it does for me. It's similar to the reason why I collect vintage pulp hardboiled and sci-fi paperbacks rather than the modern day reissues of those titles. I just love the vintage Robert McGinnis cover art as opposed to the more soulless covers of today. It's the reason why I'm going to start getting into film photography (at least occasionally) with an old Nikon SLR and an old Leica rangefinder. Sure I can probably create more technically perfect images with my Fuji mirrorless camera and Lightroom, but then I lose some of the tactile joy and craft of the analog experience. Rather than spamming 100s of shots for the perfect image, I have to be much more deliberate in my choices. Even in my professional area of science (chemistry,chemical engineering/soft matter physics), there was a sense of discovery, wonder, and careful details present in older literature than in contemporary literature. These older works often did science for the sake of fundamental discovery and carefully crafted experiments and shared the results in a more sober matter-of-fact manner. I never learned as much as I did from literature from the mid-90s and earlier. Today, as in denim, a lot of the work fixates more on the final product than the journey. Large portions of academic research focus more on device fabrication and subsequent commodification in search of an easy start-up spinoff or payday at the expense of fundamental research. I don't blame them since such hype generation drives a lot of the funding decisions, at least in the US, but this reality is ultimately what led me away from academic roles/professorships and is partly why I'm now an industrial scientist. To conclude and as a slight aside, some of the discussion here is ultimately what led me to purchase the TCB no. 2. The jeans are clearly polarizing in aesthetic as evidence by the contest thread here. They were most definitely not designed to generate 100 fit pic posts on Reddit. Rather, they exist because Inoue-san clearly loves the history of the denim and cared deeply about maklng those jeans for their own sake. Are they a pair that I would pick in a vacuum - no. However, I too appreciate the attention to detail and wanted to do my smallest part to ensure that the passion and craft can live on a little longer

'Below-tit' should be a standard measurement in our denim related world 😅

I know this feeling all too well. Inernet wasn't a thing when the Osaka5 released their early stuff. And even if it would have, it would be gone anyway. So you need old magazines. Also many of the old Japanese blogs are deleted making it harder to get info. And I have the feeling the brands weren't as transparent back then. Nowaydays you get much more info about the denim and the design. So once "we" are gone and don't care anymore, who will?

Thanks @chicote! I have never seen myself as a collector. Wholly a wearer. And for most of my denim career (nearing 20 years...) I've been dedicated to a pair at a time. Channelling my inner Ryu "Using chain stitch, your train of jeans is fading wind." But the chase of the grail that captures a specific fit, detail and character has made me really fall in love with the history of repros and particularly the Osaka 5. I realized through that, that there is very little info out there save whats in this forum, that its all going to become lost information at some point, and the only way to experience the older historical repros is to source it and see it first hand. And by total happenstance, I have become a collector...

Been searching a long time for this one: Evis era bull patch S506xx (1506). From comparison with other era pairs of jeans, it looks like No.2 denim. Lovely boxy, short silhouette. And slightly different than the norm, zinc-y laurel buttons. Don't think I can save this interesting construction tidbits: Single stitch cuff:

Sedgwick bridle, python, onyx and antique / black hardware with antique silver Japanese coin

Have a really similar one! Tanner natural, but with a nickel buckle. Must be around the same age. Can't remember exactly when I bought it - but at least 13-14 years ago.

And some interior photos, which I think have been lacking from previous updates…I'm a sucker for the 2x-spliced-together selvedge lines down the outseams, and for the oxidized–bleached spots where the front rivets hit the back yoke, when the jeans are folded.

@Cold Summer l've been in it too long, like well before the internet. Between 1986 and 2002 l thought there was just me who was into denim (culture) - l was so stoked to discover Sufu c.2007 (and for some years, Denimbro) that my perspective has been broadened immensely. Between 1986 and 1996 l probably owned a dozen pairs of vintage (40s-70s) 501's, and Between 1997 and 1998 l was down to 2 pairs. A pair of 505 and a pair of 501XX. Then in 1999 l bought my first pair of repro/heritage denims - Lvc 201xx Funnily enough, l think back in 2003 l had 15 pairs of repro levis and by 2005 l had double that and by 40 pairs l had to have a serious talk with myself. Now down to 12 active pairs. Just realised l've been into it now for nearly 40 years 😮

Excellent stuff everyone Photos got SuFu'd as well 2001XX DSB 1947 My Conners jacket is approaching bum territory so this'll be my main jacket from now on. Denim is really nice, fit is perfect, pretty stoked. Paired with FW 47s

SD-101 for my first pair of SDA jeans. I've always loved the brand and love my shirts/tees/sweatshirts, but never had any of their denim. I love the way these fit and the denim is really nice.

@beautiful_FrEaK and @Maynard Friedman thank you for your input. I’ve always wanted evisu, but honestly I have way too many jeans. Still very tempted. Also, I also wanted the tiger selvedge. Here’s a few more pics. Idk if this is helpful

LVC is finished yes, They will roll over certain styles into the Made in Japan line. On a side note, I have some of the LVC catalogue books, I would be willing to part with: FW16, SS17, FW18, FW19, SS19. I am happy to do a deal for Sufu members.