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Right then before and after shots... raw v machine wash 40 C, line dry Both jacket and jeans are roomier than they look, in a good way Will post before and after measurements soon

The evolution of my 714 after wearing it for 100 days and 3 washes.

New old coat and boots found on local marketplace for a steal. Wool Fisherman's Cap Vintage Vanderbilt wool/cotton coat with western yokes 90s COOP tee Cheap belt Silver pin Mister Freedom Outlaw Vintage Justin Boots with inlay

As requested by @Dr_Heech... plus others may be interested, sharing some measurements Both worn a bit, especially the S516XX

I have always loved all types of marbling and am surprised to see so many people against it! I’m curious if anyone can elaborate on their position a bit more? for me, I have always loved the way a big “marble” crease imprints itself into the fabric, it’s like the spirit of the fabric fighting through the indigo that’s smothering it… plus it’s usually totally absent in artificially faded jeans but quite common in handmade & naturally dyed fabrics and I feel is a characteristic I strongly associate with the latter. It’s the main reason I love tender’s standard denim so much… it just longs to speak its mind regardless of what the wearer does to it… it’s amazing!!!

Finally found the jacket that originally got me interested in FW on yahoo auctions also picked up this flannel from @JMS I think It's the Speed Tuner

Collectibles 1943 tux was waiting for me. Happy days. Bought raw so just put them both through a 40C wash. Jeans 34, jacket 46.

Bo's Glad rags Hilltop Sportswear hoodie LVC 54 501z Puma

27 type 1 43 jeans been hitting the gym a lot lately. These jeans are hard to get my legs into now haha

FW 1927 type 1 FW 1943 jeans Nicks

Burgus Plus + Warehouse

Because I got the SC tux from Seiichiro... there was an opportunity to beef up the package 😉 with these Derrickman. Useful for the 3 days of summer we get in the UK 😀 Loving the herringbone fabric.

https://www.benqmaterials.com/product/80/

I don’t mind the marbling really it’s the long vertical wash lines you get down random parts of the leg which look bad to me as it’s very clearly a washing mishap and not a naturally formed crease.

There’s a big distinction to draw (which I rarely see drawn, for whatever reason) between the sort of large-scale veining / creasing that happens when rigid denim is put through a harsh wash—think rinsed or dyed Tender Co.—and the sort of small-scale marbling that happens over time when tightly woven denim is put through the washer and dryer repeatedly. I think the latter sort of “marbling” is appealing to a lot of folks here, myself included, whereas the former sort of “marbling” is often seen as more unsightly. Personally, I wash my jeans inside out with low (or no) spin for usually the first half dozen or so washes, until they’re starting to soften up and lighten up appreciably, in order to avoid any big veins. If they’re particularly rigid, I go as far as to get them wet before the first wash. Once they’ve started softening up, anything goes: I think slightly harsher washes help with the good sort of marbling and don’t have any real downsides.

WH 660, no idea how old or how many washes/soaks. Before soak and after soak.

back from repairs

@crownzip so sick! @unders how’s your pair looking?

I’ve never washed any of my jeans inside out. But I also use the dryer sometimes too. Hahahah I like marbling. I like harsh creases. Just wear em hard and wash em often

Probably a topic more for a general thread, but I've always felt the measurements should include the hip area. Many times you even have to dig around to get a rear rise number. But I feel like some cuts just have much less fabric in the hip/arse area. Also, some have too much in the hips and they kind of bag out.

Anyone got any tips for cutting off the extra thread as it'll do my head in? Just snip and go? I don't want the jacket unravelling 😉

Tbh I used to go the inside out rule, but nowadays I just do it hayashi-san style. Wash when needed, nothing turned around and what not. In the end the differences are hard to tell and minimal, if even noticeable, imo. I think there was someone on reddit doing a test on this a few years ago and the results after 2 years or so were hardly noticeable.

Jackson Sack Coat

I mulled over this pair in my head for several years. I already talked about it 2 or 3 years ago with Naoki from PSA who had a quite big stock of them. The stock got smaller and smaller and although I might have found a pair on Yahoo, it was easier to buy from Naoki. Luckily he could secure a pair from the Orizzonti era for me. You will not find much information about this model although it had been produced in the Orizzonti and Shins era. It's a 101B Leepro from the late 40s if I am correct. Beautiful LHT. I think 14oz Details

Here is the 70 to 80 levis i got

Interesting to see those new Tilden jeans coming out that ROY helped him make. snap button closure and zipper fly. says 13.5oz cone mills

Cheers mate!

Click on over to the Freewheelers thread Dr...

1943 Happy Friday mate

Homeward bound after a trip to Johannesburg and Pretoria... The main man himself in Sandton, Johannesburg Voortrekker Monument, Pretoria View from the Voortrekker of Pretoria Peech hotel in Johannesburg, near Melrose Arch Freewheelers WW2 denim and Buckweat

We'd never know 🤣

this is the pair in question

Here are some details for the TCB Cat's Drive in size 31. Waist:15.25" (stretched to 15.5" after trying on and a bit bigger still after wearing for a bit) Front Rise: 12" Back Rise: 14.5" Thigh (at crotch): 12.4" Knee (rough judgement): 9" Leg Opening: 8" Inseam: 33" (hemmed at factory) Out of the box, they are super stiff, much more than the TCB 50's new. On paper, the measurements are nearly identical to my size 31 Warehouse Duck Digger 1001xx 1947, but the fit of the TCB feels much slimmer, especially in the hips and seat. The top block (really from mid-thigh up) almost reminds me of Samurai S211VX (which I'm also on the fence about selling off), but the taper is much more gentle from the knee down. In terms of sizing, I ordered 2 sizes down from my 50's because they were sold out of 32 when I ordered and I figured that my 50's were maybe a 1/2 inch too large anyway. I'd be curious how they would fit in a size up, but I feel like the pattern is designed to be worn slim and these technically do fit in the waist. Like @alecleamas, I feel like these may be a bit too slim and tapered for my present 1947-1955 taste, although they are certainly less slim and less tapered than contemporary "relaxed tapered" cuts. There are a lot of words here, but I find it strangely hard to describe how these fit. I really like some of the details on these, but I'm a little unsure whether I like the fit enough to keep. I will wear them for a bit to see how they relax. The wide set back pockets are pretty cool and flattering in my opinion. Both front and back pockets are tiny though, too small for a modern cell phone and almost even for a wallet. The denim is much greyer in appearance than the 50's denim, although it's a bit hard to capture on camera. The denim also has some interesting character - the left hand twill is very soft and smooth but there is some roughness (and maybe some nep?) as well. I feel like it will probably age pretty well. The stitching feels a bit sloppier than on my 50's, especially along the pocket bags where the stitches are not aligned (see detail shot near end of photos), but that may be by design. The rayon inside label is a bit confusing as it says "Sanforized Shrunk", but Ryo told me that they were actually unsanforized. Puckering and roping feels much less than on my new 50's too and the yoke is almost flat.. Coupled with the stiffness I almost wonder whether they are sanforized, non-wash - may have to check with Ryo again just to verify. The fly is gloriously long and I really like the buttons. The fit has actually relaxed a bunch within an hour and they ride up much less in the back. I may give them a full day or two of wear to see how they break in before deciding whether to release them.

@chicote’s mention of a 333 repro in the TCB contest thread reminded me to post this. Just screen grabs from Masaki Fujiki’s instagram stories a few weeks back, but he tends to post items (clues?) a couple of seasons before WH repro them, maybe from buying trips. I could be totally wrong and he might just like them and so shared them. Anyway, my fingers are crossed.

Okay, last time I’ll spam this thread until these get some significant wear. I did a second wash and got a touch more shrink as hoped for: Waist: 17" / 43 cm Front rise: 13" / 33 cm Rear rise: 16.5" / 42 cm Hip (7.5 cm up from crotch seam): 22.5" / 57 cm Thigh: 12.5" / 31.5 cm Mid-thigh (10 cm below crotch seam): 11.25" / 28 cm Knee (34 cm below crotch seam): 9.25" / 23.5 cm Hem: 8.5" / 22 cm Inseam: 33.75" / 85.5 cm Final pics: I’m a sucker for good leg twist: And a couple of not great fit pics: Parting shot:

We've hemmed (literally) tens of thousands of jeans over the past 18 years.. the average inseam in North America is definitely shorter than 30".

1001xx 25th

broke out the ol cowboy triple stitch repros. forgot how great these jeans are and that wild leg twisting

Future knee fades secured!

I'm of the mentality that the fit should come first (unless you're going for the loose sort of anti fit thing, which is great, and then a cm here and there doesn't much matter). But it's really no fun to size up for the thighs/top block and then have a waist that's sloppy...especially if you're looking to dress them up sometimes. By measurements, the 714 would work for me, but they'd still cut it close and I've avoided them for that reason (that and I have enough). The idea of dressing them up or down is very likely just because you've seen them styled that way because of the preferences of Hayashi-san. They're blue jeans and like @yung_flynn said other brands will work just fine for this - it's more the fit and the minimal detailing that makes them suitable, not anything particular about Resolute. I'd start with your hopeful top block measurements for a given waist size and see where that gets you brand wise. Another brand that is often style more Ivy is Boncoura - their XX fit might work (not war model but still repro). I have to plug the Freewheelers '51 here also - it's pretty affordable from Japan, takes well to washing, and has a generous but still more refined silhouette. The stitching will last you longer than WH/Denime too, if that matters. They have a '47 too, but it sounds like the '51 might actually work better for what you want.

@YourArsenal is there a reason you're set on Resolute? Nothing against them but they tend to run slim, and if you're looking for a WWII model you've got other options, with what sounds like cuts that might be a little more suited to what you're looking at in a given waist size.

I want hand-made perfectly by a dedicated artisan who's also great to work with. It's a short list but Duke Mantee and Ryo and Hiro are on it.

Fortunately preordering from Barnstormer didn't require any queuing or navigating a swarm of fanboys fighting for a pair. Just a 6 month wait. To be fair if I had FW in my backyard I probably wouldn't bother either! I got my pair yesterday, will try to snap some photos today. Likely keeping them on ice for a bit while I continue to wear my 661xx.

!! That’s exciting Still no word on my end, but hopefully in the next few days Geez, between these, the Roy pants, and a pair of Tender 132 that I finally splurged for on sale for my birthday, this’ll be a really unusually high volume pants month for me…

OA03 cut is very nice. Size 32. 33 would have also fit, but I'm liking the fit a lot. Gave them a 1-hour soak in the hottest water my bathtub provides, and then a warm machine wash on gentle with no detergent. They shrank to slightly below S&S's predicted measurements, so I'm confident they are fully shrunk at this point. Denim is really, really nice. I don't have anything similar to it in feel or appearance.