Tender Co. Denim

[JDelage]

I have a Tender belt on eBay, FYI: http://ebay.us/pgR2Q0?cmpnId=5338273189

[julian-wolf]

Anyone interested in a Butterfly Shirt in red-ochre-dyed airbag cambric, size 4? Picked it up a few years ago and it's a size too small, still unworn with all the tags and all that—really lovely shirt

Would be happy to sell or trade

Edited September 15, 2020 by julian-wolf

[Broark]

Looks like there will be a Type 900 jacket restock soon, could be my first Tender clothing purchase. 

 

[oomslokop]

more monster posts

butterfly shirt, the one @julian-wolf has for sale, in ecru calico. the button is metal wrapped in fabric.

nice subtle selvedge line

square tail shirt in woad linen, very cool (temp-wise) fabric, probably my most worn

i love the utilitarian pocket on this shirt. i believe it was inspired by a diy mod by a tender fan on this forum?

wallaby shirt in green khaki dyed cotton sateen

i love the british racing green buttons on this one

verdigris-dyed tesseract shirt in ecru cotton lawn with indigo stripes

the verdigris dye is basically gone from the ecru fabric, but some are left on the buttons!

tender stuffs suit my aesthetic the most out of all the usual brands on this forum. 

 

[oomslokop]

haven't finished yet lol

129 jeans in molleton denim. the denim is quite similar in colour and heftiness (heftier) to sda's standard denim (same blue selvedge id, 17 vs. 15 oz?), but tender's feels softer, velour-esqe, perhaps bcoz of the molleton process (explained previously on this thread).

love the long pocketbag (same denim, selvedge) fade:

i get samurai 710xx circa 2009 combs without even trying

pretty great roping from the factory lockstitch

peekaboo!

in the eternal search to replicate early levi's irregularities i reckon tender stuffs are actually leading the race. made in a factory to specs with irregularities that come naturally from industrial but small-scale operations? (if you look closely you can see some of the home repairs i've done. the tender aesthetics allows for mods and repairs like these to blend in perfectly.) 

Edited September 16, 2020 by oomslokop
more info

[rodeo bill]

you are my hero @oomslokop!

[JDelage]

8 hours ago, oomslokop said:

square tail shirt in woad linen, very cool (temp-wise) fabric, probably my most worn

That one is lovely. Is it this model?

https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-493-short-sleeve-bench-shirt/

[redragon]

@oomslokoplove the fact that you decided to just thick cuff your way with the original hem.

I might probably do the same to preserve it. 

[julian-wolf]

Agreed, really envious of that linen square-tailed shirt—would be perfect for hiking in, and it's aged beautifully

Here are some photos of the Type 430 Butterfly shirt in red-ochre-dyed airbag cambric, size 4

The fabric's really nice and stretchy, but this size is too slim for me in the shoulders (works great everywhere else)

Also feat. Cane's and Birks

[rodeo bill]

20 hours ago, JDelage said:

That one is lovely. Is it this model?

https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-493-short-sleeve-bench-shirt/

It's similar, but not quite the same. Oomslokop's is type 429, and the new 493 is a based on it. The main difference (asides from new fabrics and buttons) is that the 429 (and the long sleeve 422) has a simple shoulder seam and the 493 (and long sleeve 492) have an overlapping double shoulder, which looks like a dress shirt yoke from a distance, but is actually the front and the back panels sewn together with a wide double section between the stitch lines. The fabric in your link (indigo chambray tote cloth) is a little heavier than Ooms's shirt, but still a lovely mid-weight. It's a true indigo chambray, woven with the same indigo warp yarn as in Tender jeans denim, so it will fade and wear in beautifully. Here's a closeup:

 

@julian-wolf, that's a lovely shirt- there were just a few made for Oi Polloi, I think. I hope it goes to a good home!

[MJF9]

Awesome page... loving the updates gents...

Here's my hook buckle belt in tan from Feb 2012

Ageing superbly, nice and supple... the tan has tanned really nicely (it's due a little cream)... and the brass just gets better...

William's innovative buckle is a real winner for me

[CityPickin']

Great belt. I have the same one from the same period, and have been wearing it a lot lately. It's cool to see another one with some wear.  

[redragon]

On 9/17/2020 at 6:53 PM, rodeo bill said:

It's similar, but not quite the same. Oomslokop's is type 429, and the new 493 is a based on it. The main difference (asides from new fabrics and buttons) is that the 429 (and the long sleeve 422) has a simple shoulder seam and the 493 (and long sleeve 492) have an overlapping double shoulder, which looks like a dress shirt yoke from a distance, but is actually the front and the back panels sewn together with a wide double section between the stitch lines. The fabric in your link (indigo chambray tote cloth) is a little heavier than Ooms's shirt, but still a lovely mid-weight. It's a true indigo chambray, woven with the same indigo warp yarn as in Tender jeans denim, so it will fade and wear in beautifully. Here's a closeup:

@rodeo bill Any chance you still have any size 2 in this fabric lying around?

[rodeo bill]

On 9/19/2020 at 5:05 PM, redragon said:

@rodeo bill Any chance you still have any size 2 in this fabric lying around?

Thanks @redragon! Sorry, not in the short sleeve, but I do have a long sleeve (type 492) in this fabric in a 2. Please just let me know if you need any more details.

[julian-wolf]

Had some fun yesterday dyeing with brazilwood and turmeric

 

The color on the turmeric pair is pretty true (they're just a touch redder than shown), but capturing the color of the brazilwood pair was very difficult; they're redder and warmer than what's shown, closer to a sort of light peach

Also pictured: some of a fresh batch of masks, raw silk, not yet strung & finished

I may start a masks thread—seems funny that no one has, yet, now that I think about it

Edited October 6, 2020 by julian-wolf

[oomslokop]

On 9/16/2020 at 6:24 PM, rodeo bill said:

you are my hero @oomslokop!

thank u for making such intriguing and yet super wearable designs william! <3

[heyson]

Received about a week and a half ago. Been wearing it everyday <3

[Broark]

@heyson is that the type 429 in the indigo chambray? I’m thinking about getting that one too, post a fit pic when you get the chance. 

[heyson]

Hey @Broark it’s the 492 in indigo chambray. It’s a great shirt! Here’s a pic I put in WAYWT a couple days ago. Not the best pic sorry.

 

[julian-wolf]

Hoping this is an okay thread for posting others of William's projects besides Tender (writing that, I realize Whopper and GS/TP have both come up in the past, but I guess I never thought much about it)

Got the Rap Promoter cardigan, from this last run of Pop Punch sweaters, in just last week, and thought I might post some photos even though it's still in more or less new condition, just since not many seem to be floating around yet

Really happy with it so far; I was worried that the sleeves might be too short for me (this being the case for many main-line Tender offerings), but they're just about perfect, as is the fit through the body. The knit is pretty tight and has done me fine sitting out on my balcony into the night. Not much else to say about it, so far, besides that it's just as pretty in person as in the photos—the depth of color is really something else, in the reddish yarns in particular

[persco_]

I can't say the aesthetics of these items do much for me, but I absolutely love the methodology behind the pop punch knits. It's just super cool.

[Nei.Nor]

I just saw the new season has appeared on the website! Love the pictures! Tell us more!! In particular, is the type 900 jacket exactly the same as the original or are there any changes? Also, will we possibly see the coat version as well [915 was it?]?

[rodeo bill]

17 hours ago, Nei.Nor said:

I just saw the new season has appeared on the website! Love the pictures! Tell us more!!

Thank you! I'm delighted you like the look of the new things. The photos were taken on medium format film with vaseline around the edges of a skylight filter over the lens- I really like the flare and smudginess this gives the pictures.

The shirts are made from Welsh flannels, cut very large and then hot washed, so that they shrink to size (still quite generous) and get a great thickness and softness, while still wearing surprisingly light. There are two styles- a WS420 Tail shirt, and a WS412 Pullover Shirt, with a half-length placket. The buttons are white melamine, and the seams are overlocked and topstitched in white thread, which gives a really nice utilitarian contrast to the fabrics, I think. There's a very nice Weaver's Stock lined jacket coming in the next couple of weeks, more of this once I have it.

17 hours ago, Nei.Nor said:

In particular, is the type 900 jacket exactly the same as the original or are there any changes? Also, will we possibly see the coat version as well [915 was it?]?

The jackets (and jeans) in these photos are a mix of my own jeans from the first season, 10 years ago(!) and the new one. The 900 Jacket is pretty much exactly the same as the original, with a couple of small updates which I think make it even nicer (I appreciate this sounds ominous, but the new ones really are something special). The liners are being sewn at the moment, and I hope to have jackets in stock in the next couple of weeks.

Autumn/Winter 2020 was planned pre-pandemic, but it's turned out rather timely, I think. The idea was to do a couple of long-awaited reissues to celebrate ten years, and then some understated Weaver's Stock garments using really lovely fabrics. I'm hoping to continue to bring out some more reissues and special short runs over the coming months. I don't have a 990 coat at the moment (915 was the short jacket with half-moon pocket facings), but I'd certainly like to come back to it at some point. I think I only made about twelve of those first time round, and it's just the kind that I think would be really nice to revisit, now that more people are interested! I'm in the very privileged position of still working with the same machinists who made the originals of all these things, and the same weavers, so reissues really can be the same as the originals. More soon, but these shirts are on the Stores and delivering to retailers at the moment.

[Broark]

The A/W 2020 photos look really nice Bill! The Weavers Stock flannel pullovers almost have a rugby shirt vibe to them.
Looking forward to the 900 jacket restock, what denims will it be available in?

[sensy]

Oooh, when's that vest in the last photo gonna be available?

[rodeo bill]

7 hours ago, Broark said:

The A/W 2020 photos look really nice Bill! The Weavers Stock flannel pullovers almost have a rugby shirt vibe to them.
Looking forward to the 900 jacket restock, what denims will it be available in?

thank you! and yes I really like rugby shirts. these are cut with straight sleeves and no cuff, so they have a definite sporty feel to them.

900 jackets will be in the standard 16oz selvage denim, the same as the first run, dyed with woad, and

2 hours ago, sensy said:

Oooh, when's that vest in the last photo gonna be available?

the vest is the removable liner for the jacket! as with the original model, but this has been upgraded a bit- it's really special. More info when garments are in stock!

[Broark]

Looking forward to it Bill! Thanks for the update, the liner does look pretty special.

[MJF9]

Superb stuff Bill.  Great to see the 900 and liner making a comeback.  I remember them at the time... they were ones that got away.  Shirts look great too. 

Found a 900 here  

@Broark I think I can read you mind right now...

[Broark]

@MJF9 this will likely be my one jacket purchase this season (we all know I have enough...), been waiting for this one for awhile now.

[Broark]

And after I said "this will be my only jacket purchase this season", I looked at this photo. Looks a little more dressy but still casual.
Looking forward to more info on the collection as it rolls out.