Tender Co. Denim

[rodeo bill]

These have been a while coming too, but I'm equally happy with how they've turned out! Boot laces, braided in England from 100% cotton, around a cotton core. Here's how they're made:

the core strands of cotton filler run up vertically from a spool, while cones of spun cotton twist and spin around creating a relatively loose braided tube, which is drawn up through sprung rollers:

the braid gets cut to size, the ends are glued to stop them ravelling, then metal tips are pressed on with a kick press:

here are the results, in raw ecru cotton:

and hand dyed woad in a hank:

here's a pair in my own type870 Sidings Boots:

[merzbot]

Cheers for the shipment William!

These are getting born on that Christian holiday while I do some mending on the 129's  : )

[bartlebyyphonics]

adding to the auld/new dimensions

[apt to our seasonal circumstance]

]pix from a while back, but thought to share[

upsizing to a new tucked tender tux (921/132)

& last wear for a 130 for now...

hairiness and wrinkles...

[forgot just how full of fibre the denim was as new...]

[MJF9]

@bartlebyyphonics the tucked tender tux is looking good! Must say that since I had to let go of my 130 logwoods (I became too small for them) my jeans rail has had a gap... the delightful blue hues of your 130s only accentuates that!

How much wear have you put into the 130s? They look like they have plenty of life left in them?

[MJF9]

.

 

Edited December 29, 2018 by MJF9
Duplicated post removed

[bartlebyyphonics]

thanks @MJF9 - a couple of years wear on show - lots of life left indeed!

I have the opposite problem of a widening girth so going from sz.4 to sz.5... and also a search for wider hems as well as wider waists...  

[MJF9]

^ seasonal indulgences unhelpful all round in that regard

Yes thumbs up to wider hems - the At Last I'm wearing atm come in about 23 which I think is similar to the 132s... room to maneouvre... 

[snchz]

I´m a big fan of heavyweight denim for winter season but this year I´m totally in love with my Tender 130 Ryeland wool jeans. The fabric is soft inside and rough outside due to they have been weaved as denim (cotton/wool twill). They are super warm!

 

[JDelage]

Nice. Are they indigo? Hard to tell from the pic.

[snchz]

29 minutes ago, JDelage said:

Nice. Are they indigo? Hard to tell from the pic.

No, Indian black dye

[julian-wolf]

Do you have a link to those, @snchz? This is the second time I've seen them mentioned, but I don't remember ever scrolling past them on the Tender website

[snchz]

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Do you have a link to those, @snchz? This is the second time I've seen them mentioned, but I don't remember ever scrolling past them on the Tender website

Yes of course, I have an online store and we have stocked them but now we have only two sizes left: https://redcastheritage.com/products/tender-ryeland-wool-indian-black-dye-tapered-winter-jeans

As I have told to William, these are the best winter pants I have ever had. I live in Madrid and Ryeland wool maybe is too much for our climate but it´s cold here these days and I´m delighted wih them. 

[merzbot]

23 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Do you have a link to those, @snchz? This is the second time I've seen them mentioned, but I don't remember ever scrolling past them on the Tender website

I think Bill's instagram post mentioned he only did one run of them for snchz's shop.

They do look great snchz!

[julian-wolf]

Ah, that's a shame, but good info to have anyway—thanks! Now back to wishing I was a size 2 or 6…

[rodeo bill]

^these jeans look fantastic on you snchz! Yes indeed this style was only made for Redcast Heritage (very well worth a visit anyone who doesn't know the site).

On a different matter, I've just received a beautiful type 200 Wire Buckle belt back for re-stitching. This is natural tan, and originally looked like this:

here's how it arrived this morning:

the stitching had worn through, but the leather's in great condition and the buckle's patinated beautifully. I didn't want to change either too much, so I just cleaned up the buckle a little:

and sewed it back on with waxed knitted thread:

here it is now:

the colour of the leather's really remarkable, and the rough side has become almost as smooth as the grain:

there was a tiny bit of cracking around the fold over the buckle, and around the holes, so I gave it a touch of Boot Grease:

 

going back to its original owner, for many more years of wear!

Edited January 9, 2019 by rodeo bill

[julian-wolf]

Hey William—just went to buy some pairs of those wool socks that've been popping up here and there and was sad to see that both the dyed versions are already out of stock on your site. Is there any chance more of those will be getting made, or is that the end of it?

[rodeo bill]

8 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Hey William—just went to buy some pairs of those wool socks that've been popping up here and there and was sad to see that both the dyed versions are already out of stock on your site. Is there any chance more of those will be getting made, or is that the end of it?

thanks for this! Sending you a PM 

[JDelage]

(Oops, never mind...)

Edited February 7, 2019 by JDelage

[desolate]

I am pretty sure I have bought a piece from every season so far and just thought I would say that the indigo dyed cardigan is absolutely superb.

It's a toss up between this and the messenger bag for my favourite ever tender item.

 

Just beautiful.

 

Edited February 14, 2019 by desolate

[JDelage]

Messenger bag?

[desolate]

Yes it's a leather bag with a single flap and brass buckle 

 

It may have been referred to as a stachel, but mine doesn't have the extra buckles so can only be worn over the shoulder or carried by the handle.

The leather is beautiful.

[MJF9]

@desolate would be good to see some pics when you have time

[rodeo bill]

16 hours ago, desolate said:

I am pretty sure I have bought a piece from every season so far and just thought I would say that the indigo dyed cardigan is absolutely superb.

It's a toss up between this and the messenger bag for my favourite ever tender item.

 

Just beautiful.

 

Thank you so much! I'm honoured, and yes please do post any photos if you have a chance. I've had a look back and found a few very old photos of the second generation of your bag:

Edited February 15, 2019 by rodeo bill

[desolate]

Here we go

 

It's a beautiful thing.

 

Just realised they aren't great shots. It's a lovely deep golden colour and very supple.

Patina provided by spilled coffee, a parrot that tried to eat the strap and rubbing against indigo so the edges have a blue tinge.

 

Further edit to say my wife would kill me if she knew I posted pics of the furniture and the patio in their current state. It's been a long wet winter and although it's beautiful today I'm not cleaning it all yet as we have worse to come before spring I am sure!

Edited February 15, 2019 by desolate

[desolate]

Whilst I am at it here's the cardigan after one wash.

 

[MJF9]

@desolate so good!

Edited February 15, 2019 by MJF9

[Foxy2]

Wearing mine today - still only 1 wash...

[JDelage]

 New Tender day. Those are the 133 high back trews and the FHUTT collab braces. I thought the combo would take some getting used to but it's very comfy. I will post detailed pics once I’ve had the time to take some in daylight. 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2019 by JDelage

[MJF9]

@JDelage spot on combo!

I'm sporting FHUTT today - indeed very comfy.

[rodeo bill]

^^all looking wonderful chaps, thank you so much!

Here's something really special, just back from dyeing today. Type 935 Ryeland wool face cotton twill Shepherd's coat- 4 coats dyed with true khaki (turmeric plus fermented indigo). The dye's taken really nicely to the wool and cotton yarns. As well as highlighting the seams, the dye brings up the shading of the fabric beautifully (eg the pockets are cut at right angles to the body panels, and the tone of the colour is dramatically different):