Tender Co. Denim

[MJF9]

I've got a pair of 130 logwoods in size 5 (36 inch) that I'd like to swap for a size 4. I know it's a bit of an outside chance but if anyone wants to discuss please DM me... thanks...

[redragon]

Random shot, still Loving it!

 

[Toegun]

@redragon they look great!

[Niro]

I always say this, but the marbling texture that Tender denim gets looks so good!

[bartlebyyphonics]

with all i am fully agreein'

@redragon they look nice and patterned 

tender marbling is so very appealing 

the cut is both flattering and rugged

 

[JDelage]

Why is it that those jeans get so much marbling I wonder?

[hemi]

Thanks so much William for the extra pins... my absolute favourite pair of jeans!

[rodeo bill]

^these look amazing Hemi! And of course you're very welcome.

On 27/12/2017 at 1:36 PM, JDelage said:

Why is it that those jeans get so much marbling I wonder?

I've wondered about this too. I really liked it when I first wore in the first sample length of what would become Tender denim, and I'm not totally sure why it gets this kind of marbling. My initial basic requirements were very deep almost black indigo, fairly tight weave with space for shrinkage, lots of starch. I think the marbling may be caused by the starch holding the fabric stiff through the first washes, and the excess indigo moving around the starched creases, while the tighter weave stops the fabric collapsing and the dye bleeding more evenly. I'll ask the mill, though, and let you know if they have another explanation. This is the kind of denim alchemy that I find really fascinating and unpredictable- anyone else have any theories?

More soon- I'm hoping to ship the first batch of new season products in the next couple of weeks, so I'll put pictures up shortly :-)

[daltmeyer]

Hi. Ive been reading this thread learning about Tender clothing. It took a while but I guess Im coming around to the unique style Tender has. I guess what I have read so far has inspired me to give Tender a try. I just ordered a pair of the Type 129 unborn today from tenderstores. I also copped a Wallaby Pocket Tail Shirt-Red Wattle Cotton Sateen Type 423(I think) shirt from a store here in the U.S. Thanks for the great thread!

 

Edited January 2, 2018 by daltmeyer

[chicote]

Ah, I've been looking for one of those wallaby pocket shirts in my size for ages! nice find—i'd be interested to see photos of the fabric when it comes in!

[rodeo bill]

5 hours ago, daltmeyer said:

Hi. Ive been reading this thread learning about Tender clothing. It took a while but I guess Im coming around to the unique style Tender has. I guess what I have read so far has inspired me to give Tender a try. I just ordered a pair of the Type 129 unborn today from tenderstores. I also copped a Wallaby Pocket Tail Shirt-Red Wattle Cotton Sateen Type 423(I think) shirt from a store here in the U.S. Thanks for the great thread!

 

Thank you! And welcome to sufu. I've just packed your jeans, and they'll be on their way to you this afternoon. Yes please do post some photos of your shirt :-)

[daltmeyer]

17 minutes ago, rodeo bill said:

Thank you! And welcome to sufu. I've just packed your jeans, and they'll be on their way to you this afternoon. Yes please do post some photos of your shirt :-)

Thats sounds great rodeo bill. Youre welcome! Hey dont forget my pair of socks. They should match that shirt perfectly. Ill try to post photos when the time comes.

[rodeo bill]

^yup no worries they're in the box! thanks again

[rodeo bill]

 

On 27/12/2017 at 1:36 PM, JDelage said:

Why is it that those jeans get so much marbling I wonder?

On 01/01/2018 at 8:40 AM, rodeo bill said:

I'll ask the mill, though, and let you know if they have another explanation.

Re marbling - Tender denim is genuinely loomstate, ie there's no finishing at all. Apparently a lot of unsanforized denim is skewed and singed before cutting, just not shrunk. The mill got back to me this morning that the heavy sizing (starch), and dark indigo, combined with no finishing at all before wearing leads to this marbling effect. So more or less what I thought, but good to clear it up! Thanks for asking :-)

[daltmeyer]

Ive read alot of this thread so excuse me if I missed it. Whats the general recommendation for soaking Tenders Unborn jeans? What temp hot or cold and for how long? Agitation? These 129 Unborn will be my first real raw denim in a long time.

Also, anyone with experience with the 134 straight cut trews? Hows the cut? Whats a Trew? Haha. Excuse my ignorance please!

Edited January 3, 2018 by daltmeyer

[rodeo bill]

^personally I've either gone old school and wear my new jeans to soak in a hot bath (as hot as I can bear, until it cools down a bit), or I just put them in the washing machine at 40C inside out, then hung them to dry. You're more likely to get some streaking if you machine wash them, which has a certain look at first which some people are;t keen on, but it will fade in and I quite like, myself. If you take a bath in them you'll get less of that, and you might find you get a better fit initially, but washed jeans will stretch in anyway. If you soak them without wearing them the effect will be somewhere in between. In my opinion there's no right or wrong, but I do quite like the take-a-bath option, even if it's not strictly necessary!

As for 134 trews, I posted some images on the last page (here), if you haven't seen these. You can go for the same size as your 129s, but the cut is wider in the leg, and slightly more fitted around the seat. There's no yoke so the shape is a bit more like a chino than a pair of jeans. The name 'trews' comes from these:

early trousers, cut from woven fabric on the bias (diagonal) to allow the cloth to stretch over the legs. Previously 'hose' was knitted (ie like tights), and other leg coverings were very loose. Trews appeared in Scottish dress around the 16th Century as a harder-wearing alternative to hose, but warmer and more practical than a kilt. The word 'trousers' comes from 'trews'. The were traditionally cut without a side seam, again to help keep them snug to the body, and to avoid interrupting the check of the tartan.

Tender trews were first cut on the bias, so they stretched at the knee, but this style is Straight-Cut (ie not on the bias). They're also the only pants I've done with stitched-down worker-type front pocket bags. The fabric is based on a canvas traditionally used for the tarpaulins of canal barges- it's a great sturdy canvas that gets extremely stiff when it's wet, to stop water getting through. 

Hope this helps! And do let me know by email if you need any measurments etc.

[daltmeyer]

Excellent post rodeo bill. This answers my question and then some. I had seen that post you linked but completely missed the Style number on those pants.

*EDIT* Just copped a pair off your store. Awesome.

Edited January 3, 2018 by daltmeyer

[julian-wolf]

How's sizing on Tender socks? If I wear a size 11 Brannock, are they likely to work well?

Other sock-related questions: Around how thick are they—are they more in the sneaker range, or the workboot range? and: Around how well the mohair socks tend to hold up, longevity-wise, as compared to standard merino?

[chicote]

They'll definitely fit you—i'm a size 9 and they are just on the large end of ideal (lol). The cotton socks—for that's all I can speak to—are quite thick but not absurdly so, i can skate in them in the spring or fall or walk around in sneakers no problem. though i suppose they would be better with boots. and they last forever i've had my pairs for two years and they still look new (structurally)!

[rodeo bill]

^thanks Chicote! Yes, US11=UK9, and Tender socks are based on a 9+/- so they should be fine for you. I have a couple of pairs of black formal socks which I wear on the rare occasions I have to wear a suit, but apart from that I wear Tender socks with everything- they're great with boots but they're also very comfy around the house and with softer shoes. Through this winter I've really been enjoying the knee length wool/cotton marl style (I have 3 pairs). As Chicote says, I've also found them to be very long-wearing. 

[daltmeyer]

As promised, heres some pics. My Wattle Dyed Wallaby Shirt. This shirt is fantastic! The color and the fabric is excellent. Im 6' 0" wearing size 6. I dont know my weight, havent been keeping track lately but I wear 38 waist. Sorry for the dirty mirror. It wont clean up  any better.

 

 

Edited January 13, 2018 by daltmeyer

[daltmeyer]

Alright I got my pants in! Both pair are size 6. A pair of unborn 129(1st 2 pics) and a pair of 134 Straight Cut Trews in Barge Blue Canvas(last 2 pics). I was worried the waist might shrink too much so I soaked and then wore my unborn 129 to work as they dried. The resulting fit is awesome. Maybe my best fitting, and favorite pair of jeans so far! The 134 trews need more wear in time as I only shoveled some snow in them. The roomier fit is growing on me a lot. The waist is snug and has a higher rise.

Edited January 15, 2018 by daltmeyer

[dogboy]

Hey- new to Superdenim, looking to buy any woad-dyed/colored jeans in 4/5 (34 or 36) and any jackets or shirts (preferably denim jackets, would love neat pockets in shirts or jackets) in sz. 3/4. CONUS! Can trade, too. Avid on reddit.

[rodeo bill]

Akira just arrived in Paris for JUMBLE showroom, where he's showing Whooper and GS/TP, as well as a couple of other brands. It's mainly for trade, but if anyone's around Rue du Roi de Sicile from tomorrow until Sunday please do pop by and ask to see Akira Irie at Homestead. Say I sent you!

[Nei.Nor]

Here’s another update on my 129s. Really loving the colours that are coming out - incl. the lovely marbling.

I’ve done several repairs to these - mostly because I enjoy it. Surprisingly, the crotch area is fine. Maybe the result of the forward folded hem (?) - or maybe just because it’s nice and roomy around the thighs. But I’ve done some hand repairs to the buttonhole, yoke and “snubs thumb pocket” - so that explains the differences in the thread colours.

[rodeo bill]

^looking great! Tender new season soon I promise, but in the meantime here are my Whooper Greyhounds:

Like an idiot I tried to dry them over the woodburner and burned a load of holes in them... Some really interesting chromatic effects in the indigo though! Our local alterations tailor did a great job patching them from the inside. The zigzag'll need extending I think, but the patches are great:

[Niro]

At first look, I thought someone really shit themself badly 

[rodeo bill]

and then tried to burn the evidence

[Niro]

aha so the truth has been revealed! 

[discop]

Next denim trend!