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sorry to clutter up the thread with fit pics of the same jeans but I absolutely love these 660's looking for opinions...should I hem? the inseam is currently at a 33 (they've been washed and dried so I'm assuming I've lost all the length I will lose) I usually wear a 30 inseam, the pending issue..nobody around here does chain stitching and I don't really want to pay shipping + duty + whatever else to send them to self edge or whoever else down south does it...what do you guys think? thanks in advance

 

double rolled

x

big single cuff

x

 

 

double cuff looks good.

 

 

edit: BiG worked it out with me.

Edited by PhillyFresh
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People that wear Warehouse always seem to have well put together fits, unlike half the superdenim users. I know for some people thats not why they come here/care about premium denim but props to dudes in this thread. You make it look good!

Edited by RayRei
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Really want to hem my 1000xx, but I love the way the guys at Takeoff did the hem. It is identical to the Ware House factory spec. i.e. the actual fold at the bottom where the fabric is folded in and then stitched is very tight and skinny. After soaking it just once the roping is ridiculous. 

 

I know not a lot of people care much for these little details, but I know there are some of us out there that do. I figure I would hem them once more before I soak them for a second time. Figure this way I can maximize the puckering and tightening on the fabric since (ideally) the fabric once folded and in place will shrink and be pulled by the tug of the chain stitch. 

 

I have had my jeans hemmed at Railcar before and they have done a great job by all means, but I feel that the hem fold (if it's even called that) is usually on the thick and long side. Self Edge is extremely inconvenient unless the jeans have been purchased there and BIG I know only chain stitches on jeans bought through them.

 

Ok I'm done ranting and sounding like a complete idiot.

 

Cheers 

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Really want to hem my 1000xx, but I love the way the guys at Takeoff did the hem. It is identical to the Ware House factory spec. i.e. the actual fold at the bottom where the fabric is folded in and then stitched is very tight and skinny. After soaking it just once the roping is ridiculous. 

 

I know not a lot of people care much for these little details, but I know there are some of us out there that do. I figure I would hem them once more before I soak them for a second time. Figure this way I can maximize the puckering and tightening on the fabric since (ideally) the fabric once folded and in place will shrink and be pulled by the tug of the chain stitch. 

 

I have had my jeans hemmed at Railcar before and they have done a great job by all means, but I feel that the hem fold (if it's even called that) is usually on the thick and long side. Self Edge is extremely inconvenient unless the jeans have been purchased there and BIG I know only chain stitches on jeans bought through them.

 

Ok I'm done ranting and sounding like a complete idiot.

 

Cheers

Send it to us at blue owl. I personally hem 98% of the denim that comes through. Samurai flat head momotaro warehouse literally you name it. I usually give myself a 1.25" allowance. Meaning that much gets folded in half then chain stitched. If you get your jeans chain stitched the hem job should be better than the factory.

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Really want to hem my 1000xx, but I love the way the guys at Takeoff did the hem. It is identical to the Ware House factory spec. i.e. the actual fold at the bottom where the fabric is folded in and then stitched is very tight and skinny. After soaking it just once the roping is ridiculous. 

 

I know not a lot of people care much for these little details, but I know there are some of us out there that do. I figure I would hem them once more before I soak them for a second time. Figure this way I can maximize the puckering and tightening on the fabric since (ideally) the fabric once folded and in place will shrink and be pulled by the tug of the chain stitch. 

 

I have had my jeans hemmed at Railcar before and they have done a great job by all means, but I feel that the hem fold (if it's even called that) is usually on the thick and long side. Self Edge is extremely inconvenient unless the jeans have been purchased there and BIG I know only chain stitches on jeans bought through them.

 

Ok I'm done ranting and sounding like a complete idiot.

 

Cheers 

You're not the only one. I've banged on about this in the past. I have all of my raw denim hemmed at purchase or before soaking if possible. I know aho is very particular about this as well, even if it means the jeans are unreturnable or lose resale value due to being hemmed.

 

I've also had factory one-wash pairs hemmed before soaking, and the degree of roping on those have been less extreme than pairs hemmed before ever touching water (i.e. that roping you have now likely won't happen if you rehem, unless you stretch the fabric out before you have them hemmed).

 

Ultimately, the timing and quality of the hem affects the degree of roping. The quality is dependent on the equipment and skill of the operator - not all chainstitched hems are created equally. I've had jeans hemmed on Union Specials that have been great, and some that have been disappointing on account of either equipment or operator. The hem width you speak of is a function of the holder on the machine that holds the fold. Some produce wider hems than others, resulting in less roping - I experienced this when having jeans hemmed at SELA, so you may want to take that into consideration in the future. I also had two pairs hemmed at SENY, by two different operators. One was flawless. The other was sloppy.

 

The variability in skill of the operator is evident in a video I posted in the Kapital thread, where they held a hemming contest among their employees. The workers were judged on their hemming ability by the quality and speed of the hem. It was hilarious to see the new hands trying their best with some of them struggling. At the end, the veteran craftsmen show them how it's done, executing a perfect hem in the blink of an eye.

 

Although BiG may not accept mail-in orders for hemming, you can have them hemmed in-person. Gordon does an exceptional job, taking care to replicate the factory hem (colour of thread, inseam/outseam starting point). The reason why he's so good at it is probably because every time I've been to BiG, he's been hemming away on the Union Special. It's a blessing that BiG has exclusivity for Warehouse in North America, because if you have them hemmed when you buy them, you are assured to have a proper hem that will age beautifully with the rest of the denim, as originally intended.

 

Send it to us at blue owl. I personally hem 98% of the denim that comes through. Samurai flat head momotaro warehouse literally you name it. I usually give myself a 1.25" allowance. Meaning that much gets folded in half then chain stitched. If you get your jeans chain stitched the hem job should be better than the factory.

While this may be true for a lot of denim, it's a fairly egregious claim when talking about the producers you listed. They employ expertly trained workers, and I would be happy if any aftermarket hem could replicate the factory hem.

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While this may be true for a lot of denim, it's a fairly egregious claim when talking about the producers you listed. They employ expertly trained workers, and I would be happy if any aftermarket hem could replicate the factory hem.

Matching the thread colors is pretty standard, and I believe SE BIG all use union specials, 43200Gs, same as us. It's really not that egregious of a claim at all. I have been to multiple factories and seen how/ who is doing it. Everyone goes through training it's not like they would just let someone who hasn't seen a machine hem for a customer. I had to hem all sorts of jeans and crazy fabrics for 6 months before i was allowed to do one for a customer. just because we will only put it out if it is flawless. When we have packages arrive, and we inspect every piece you tend to notice sloppy hems occasionally. Factories go through the motions and occasionally get sloppy.

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^ I think that you saying that your hem job would be "better than factory" may have been a strong claim, and resulted in PeterParker's response. That said, I'm sure you do a fine job.  :)

There are some people like Roy who are very skilled on many vintage machines, then there are the factory workers. It's really not that hard, and in reality, it's just a hem. The union special is capable of one thing; hemming. Any union special specialist who has hemmed thousands of pairs, they better be able to produce a better chain stitch than a factory worker who is simply going through the motions, cranking them out. And if not then they fail because it is not a difficult task, whatsoever

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Guys, he's not saying his perfect hem is any different than a factory worker doing a perfect hem. He is saying that he basically guarantees a fault-free hem, when some less than ideal factory hems slip through QA, per his first-hand inspection as a retailer. And from my dealings with Blue Owl, if the hem gets to you with any faults, they'll probably quickly rectify it for you. Am I right, Kevin?

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