Sugar Cane Denim

[silencejoe]

1 hour ago, Dr_Heech said:

Why not take the Piece tag off when the jacket becomes threadbare and sew it onto the SC jacket?

Sounds good, i will give it a try.  Thanks Dr 

[indigoeagle]

9 hours ago, MJF9 said:

 

 

 

Very interesting.
Goes to show that people wore these jackets in all kinds of ways: relatively tight or basically over sized like shown here.

Perhaps he also wanted to wear a t-back 😉

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 2/23/2024 at 6:39 PM, MJF9 said:

I might have somethings coming along soon 

Jacket then, right?

My jeans should arrive next week

[MJF9]

Jeans plus jacket mate... I crumbled!!

Went with size 46 jacket... I think it'll be an interesting fit, as per my comments above. Short and boxy with overhanging shoulders.

Waiting for the right SC cotton to hem my jeans 😃 ... hopefully soon but not sure when yet

Will be interested in your report!

[MJF9]

2 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

Very interesting.
Goes to show that people wore these jackets in all kinds of ways: relatively tight or basically over sized like shown here.

Perhaps he also wanted to wear a t-back 😉

Yeah looks like a comfortable fit... though I think the chest is about right and that has dictated the size. The shoulders are wider which coupled with the linear / perpendicular shoulder seam creates what we'd now see as oversized but is in keeping with the period from what I've seen. From 1927 the shoulder seams are curved and so fall differently.  

Haha but yes maybe he could have fit a 44 but took a punt on 46 for the T back!!

[Duke Mantee]

15 hours ago, indigoeagle said:

Goes to show that people wore these jackets in all kinds of ways: relatively tight or basically over sized like shown here.

Absolutely bang on.

They wore what they had. Too loose, too tight, loo long or too short.

Overall and coverall has quite a different meaning today.

[MJF9]

It must have been fascinating growing up then Duke 😜

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

It must have been fascinating growing up then Duke 😜

It was shite - everything I owned was too loose, too tight, loo long or too short. 

[Dr_Heech]

14 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

It was shite - everything I owned was too loose, too tight, loo long or too short. 

And in all in black and white too

 

Edited February 26 by Dr_Heech
Spelling

[Maynard Friedman]

You should have chosen an appropriately sized animal to skin

[MJF9]

He made these but they were too long and too tight

[Duke Mantee]

26 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

You should have chosen an appropriately sized animal to skin

I did what I could with the remnants from the mammoth skin after I made my thong (even though the trunk was too short)

Edited February 25 by Duke Mantee

[CharlieMike]

Can anyone tell me about the 1966 Sugar Cane? How is the brand shaped compared to Warehouse or Resolute? I wear W33 pure WH and Resolute. Do you advise me to take the same size? Is the 1966 model a good reproduction? The fabric and the cut are similar to the 501 of this era? Does anyone have measurements for a size W32 or w33?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

SC 1966
 

Size 33

 

Raw

Waist: 35.5"

Front rise: 13"

Back rise: 17"

Thighs: 13.5"

Knee: 9.8"

Leg opening: 8.5"

Inseam: 36.5"

 

Machine wash

Waist: 33"

Front rise: 12.25"

Back rise: 16"

Thighs: 12.8"

Knee: 9.4"

Leg opening: 8.125"

Inseam: 32" (hemmed at DC4)

[CharlieMike]

@beautiful_FrEaK  Thank you very much, this helps me There are many brands that offer the 66 model, what do you think of the Sugar Cane 1966? Is the fabric from the Cone Mills porch of this era? I'm looking for a "66" model that is as close as possible to the 501 of that era. Do you have one to recommend? I know that there is also the LR01 from Superstitch, the TCB 60 (but the height seems low to me). Thank you in advance for your advice.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The best person to answer this is probaly @JohnM as he wrore the original in his youth. And he has quite a lot of expereicne with different jeans.

In terms of fabric I think Resolute do it very well (not so much in cut though). I think the SC 1966 are too high rise and the TSB 60s too low rise. So right now I wouldn't be able to tell you who does the best interpretation. Maybe Warehouse?

[CharlieMike]

@beautiful_FrEaK  Thank you, I am trying to compare the measurements with originals presented on the site: https://store.acorn-vtg.com/ the measurements of the SC 1966 seem quite close. Do you know where their cotton comes from? USA?

[CharlieMike]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The best person to answer this is probaly @JohnM as he wrore the original in his youth. And he has quite a lot of expereicne with different jeans.

In terms of fabric I think Resolute do it very well (not so much in cut though). I think the SC 1966 are too high rise and the TSB 60s too low rise. So right now I wouldn't be able to tell you who does the best interpretation. Maybe Warehouse?

I have lot 1101 (BigE 1970) from WH, I don't know if this one is considered "66 type", but I would like to compare it with the SC 1966.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The WH 1100 is the 66 model. The BigE model (while still produced in the 60s) is not considered a 66 model by the definition of the Japanese repro crowd.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

1 hour ago, CharlieMike said:

@beautiful_FrEaK  Thank you, I am trying to compare the measurements with originals presented on the site: https://store.acorn-vtg.com/ the measurements of the SC 1966 seem quite close. Do you know where their cotton comes from? USA?

No idea but very well possible. But probably a blend of different cottons anyway.

In general, Sugar Cane does very good repros. Many consider the 1947 to be one of the best '47 repros. So why shouldn't they also make the 66 as good?
Only in comparison with all the other brands, the SC stick out with the high rise. But thanks to your link, it seems there as similar high rise vintage 66 models.

[JohnM]

As b_F said, I've owned jeans from many makers, but not many 66 models, other than the original from Levi's (when I was a kid) and a Cone pair from LVC.  The latter is quite true to my memory of the original -- pretty straight from the hips to the hem, medium rise, and a tendency for the jeans to drape down on the hips and fall from there.   Of all the Levi's pairs I've tried, the 66 is the least body conforming and most 'anti-fit'.  That's not to say I don't like it, but there's probably a reason (fit-wise) why the Levi's models from the 40s are so popular.

I'm not familiar with the Sugar Cane 66, but SC does a good job with repros, as does Warehouse, as b_F said.  Of the many choices, I'd probably start with those two.

[yung_flynn]

5 hours ago, CharlieMike said:

I have lot 1101 (BigE 1970) from WH, I don't know if this one is considered "66 type", but I would like to compare it with the SC 1966.

If you're not completely set on a 1966 501 repro (or are willing to go for a 505 type repro), there is also Warehouse 1105 - an early 60's 551zxx repro - that you can occasionally find 2nd hand. Later runs use Banner Denim though, which while great probably does not scratch the historical accuracy itch for you in terms of denim (less sure about cut). 1105 is top of mind because I stumbled across a NWOT pair that I've been contemplating.

[CharlieMike]

4 hours ago, JohnM said:

As b_F said, I've owned jeans from many makers, but not many 66 models, other than the original from Levi's (when I was a kid) and a Cone pair from LVC.  The latter is quite true to my memory of the original -- pretty straight from the hips to the hem, medium rise, and a tendency for the jeans to drape down on the hips and fall from there.   Of all the Levi's pairs I've tried, the 66 is the least body conforming and most 'anti-fit'.  That's not to say I don't like it, but there's probably a reason (fit-wise) why the Levi's models from the 40s are so popular.

I'm not familiar with the Sugar Cane 66, but SC does a good job with repros, as does Warehouse, as b_F said.  Of the many choices, I'd probably start with those two.

@JohnM  Thank you very much for this clarification, it is very useful to me. I will probably choose the SC model (I already have two Warehouses in my collection). It is true that "the best proportions" seem to be those of the 1947 model. I received my WH DSB 1947 just today.

[CharlieMike]

6 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

No idea but very well possible. But probably a blend of different cottons anyway.

In general, Sugar Cane does very good repros. Many consider the 1947 to be one of the best '47 repros. So why shouldn't they also make the 66 as good?
Only in comparison with all the other brands, the SC stick out with the high rise. But thanks to your link, it seems there as similar high rise vintage 66 models.

@beautiful_FrEaK  Thank you for your reply. I just received my WH DSB 1947, I can't wait to see the cut. The Acorn VTG site is for me a very good reference for historical cuts/measurements.

[wmb]

I just received a pair of 66.  I really like the fit -- I have the 47 in a couple of sizes and this already feels like it will fit better after a wash or two.  When the top of the 47's are comfortable the leg seems a bit wide for my current taste.  These thread the needle with top comfort and not being too billowy....  I really like the denim on the 47's and this feels similar, though in the unwashed condition it's a bit hard to tell how they will develop.  And the price is pretty nice also...

[NilsLW]

@CharlieMike The SC66 is a good pair of jeans I can recommend them, the top block and thighs however are quite roomy in comparison with the legs that taper slightly. I get the feeling comparing the measurements with real 60s pairs that the hem is slightly smaller in comparison with the top block/thighs. Also important to note as @beautiful_FrEaK said this is not a ”66” repro but a late 60s aka ”BigE” repro.

Edited February 26 by NilsLW

[CharlieMike]

10 hours ago, NilsLW said:

@CharlieMike The SC66 is a good pair of jeans I can recommend them, the top block and thighs however are quite roomy in comparison with the legs that taper slightly. I get the feeling comparing the measurements with real 60s pairs that the hem is slightly smaller in comparison with the top block/thighs. Also important to note as @beautiful_FrEaK said this is not a ”66” repro but a late 60s aka ”BigE” repro.

Thank you for your reply. The SC 1966 is not a “66” repro, it rather corresponds to the period of the last BIgE (1970-1971)?

[CharlieMike]

12 hours ago, wmb said:

I just received a pair of 66.  I really like the fit -- I have the 47 in a couple of sizes and this already feels like it will fit better after a wash or two.  When the top of the 47's are comfortable the leg seems a bit wide for my current taste.  These thread the needle with top comfort and not being too billowy....  I really like the denim on the 47's and this feels similar, though in the unwashed condition it's a bit hard to tell how they will develop.  And the price is pretty nice also...

OK, thanks, I'm keeping the SC 1966 in mind, because I just bought the WH 1947 DSB. I received it yesterday

[Maynard Friedman]

@CharlieMike I think in terms of discussion of the SC66, there is no objective truth of how true it is to the original. Ask a different person and you’ll get a different response based on their own subjective understanding of what constitutes a 66 cut (is there really such a thing anyway?) and how close the SC model is to realising that. They are no doubt what someone at Sugar Cane/Toyo believes to be representative of that era so must be based on something. If you accept the SC66 is in that ballpark and you like the cut, measurements, denim and details then it’s probably worth going for. If not, then keep looking…

[CharlieMike]

Il y a 17 heures, yung_flynn a dit :

Si vous n'êtes pas complètement installé sur une repro 501 1966 (ou si vous êtes prêt à opter pour une repro de type 505), il y a aussi Warehouse 1105 - une repro 551zxx du début des années 60 - que vous pouvez parfois trouver de seconde main. Plus tard, les courses utilisent Banner Denim, ce qui, bien que génial, ne gratte probablement pas la précision historique qui vous démange en termes de denim (moins sûr de la coupe). 1105 est au premier plan parce que je suis tombé sur une paire NWOT que j'ai envisagée.

Thanks for the information, I have quite a few jeans, I'm really looking for a reproduction of the 66 model. It's true that the banner denim is very cool.