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THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)


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Looking for recommendations for slim–straight double black jeans with room in the thighs. In particular, I need 25.5"+ upper thighs at a 33" post-stretch waist. Higher rise is preferred, but I could do something in the mid-rise range if necessary as long as it's 11"+ in front and 15.5"+ in back. In short: a 30s–50s cut is ideal. I tend to prefer Japanese brands' aesthetics, but MIJ isn't a strict requirement if there're good options elsewhere.

I've been searching for a while now, and I've found absolutely nothing that fits these criteria, so any pointers are greatly appreciated.

edit: Just came across the Momotaro 0605-B, which I guess I hadn't seen before since it's exclusive to S&S. This seems promising, but remains slimmer through the legs than I'd prefer, so I'm still definitely looking for other options.

Edited by julian-wolf
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^ I have looked at these, but not very thoroughly since I don't think any of their cuts are likely to work well for me (all but the Charles Atlas look like they're too slim in the top block, and the taper on that one's very strong). I do remember really liking how the Collect Mills Black Maria fabric fades…maybe it's time I reconsidered and found somewhere nearby to try them on. Thanks for the recommendation.

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Sugar Cane's double black denim is one of my favorite fabrics; if they made it in a '40s or '50s cut I'd be all over it fast. Unfortunately, the 2014 is wayyyyy too slim for me. I'll look more into OrSlow. I've liked what I've seen of them, but never tried any on. Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Winter is here in my consumer region and I'm in diar need of a better casual jacket , after some initial research I desired the ironheart N 1 but when I went to their site to order one every colour was extinct bar the grey and as only lesbians serial killers and ravers wear shines grey I'm looking at alternatives , as my motorbike leather jacket is alpaca lined and I love how warm and toasty  it keeps me I would like to stick to that lining material and my first choice is brown but I'll have to settle for blue in another brand as no one else is doing brown or alpaca .

So as an alternative I'm torn between the Pike Brothers or Eat Dust ,anyone ?

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On 4/6/2018 at 12:36 AM, Toegun said:

I'm getting some store credits at Denimio for a return and Sugar Cane are a brand who have been on my radar for a while. I'm really interested in SC40301 14OZ RYUKYU INDIGO MIXED SUGAR CANE DENIM - BUT the SC40401 14OZ HAWAIIAN INDIGO MIXED SUGAR CANE DENIM have also peaked my interest. I am a "healthy" size 36, does anyone have first hand experience with either of these denim and do they stretch out after numerous wears? 

Thanks.

I'm a 31 and I undersized to 29 and eventually they stretched out, basically they ended up a skinny fit but pretty uncomfortable for awhile.I wish I would have gotten my normal size or 1 size up, at Hinoya they originally recommended size 31 or 32 for me. But that was 10 years ago, I would search recent posts, sometimes Japanese brands recently will taper the waist inward because Japanese people are way skinnier with narrower hips, and the waistband measures less than the hip width (If that makes any sense) so recently when I went to Hinoya I was having to wear 33,34, even 35-36 in a lot of brands, even Iron Heart (I'm US size 31). So definitely search recently posts unless you get the option to return them.

They are beautiful and have lasted for years with no crotch bust, they are really utilitarian and rugged and my more expensive jeans have busted years earlier. They are really streaky from the natural fiber and look really from the 1940's or something now, and have faded 10x better than all my other jeans. Sugar Cane is top notch and at the top of my list and they are way cheaper than  Momotaro, PBJ, Denime, etc. which I've tried. Those are kind of marketing/trend heavy brands but Sugar Cane is the real deal.

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On 3/24/2018 at 5:13 AM, Evry1lovej said:

Thanks for the opinion. I'm on the shorter leg side and long torso. The cuts that I mention is all good for me just now it's more about the fade, brand, quality and etc

Just FYI I bought some PBJs in the past and they were beautiful in the beginning, but eventually the slubs wore off and the crotch busted. I didn't think the fabric was particularly durable, if I could do it over again I would get something really high OZ like Iron Heart or even Brave Star (Los Angeles brand which some people are talking about).

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On 24/06/2018 at 3:50 AM, brainmonster said:

I'm a 31 and I undersized to 29 and eventually they stretched out, basically they ended up a skinny fit but pretty uncomfortable for awhile.I wish I would have gotten my normal size or 1 size up, at Hinoya they originally recommended size 31 or 32 for me. But that was 10 years ago, I would search recent posts, sometimes Japanese brands recently will taper the waist inward because Japanese people are way skinnier with narrower hips, and the waistband measures less than the hip width (If that makes any sense) so recently when I went to Hinoya I was having to wear 33,34, even 35-36 in a lot of brands, even Iron Heart (I'm US size 31). So definitely search recently posts unless you get the option to return them.

They are beautiful and have lasted for years with no crotch bust, they are really utilitarian and rugged and my more expensive jeans have busted years earlier. They are really streaky from the natural fiber and look really from the 1940's or something now, and have faded 10x better than all my other jeans. Sugar Cane is top notch and at the top of my list and they are way cheaper than  Momotaro, PBJ, Denime, etc. which I've tried. Those are kind of marketing/trend heavy brands but Sugar Cane is the real deal.

Cheers @brainmonster, I did go true to size with a 36 in the SC40301 14OZ RYUKYU INDIGO MIXED SUGAR CANE DENIM, and I'm definitely glad I did as they a re a little sung but still comfortable and a very good length in the leg (34 minimum). I'll get some fit picks up soon, basically I see them as my motivational trousers to keep me on the right side of a 36 waist. It can be done!

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  • 2 months later...
On ‎31‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 6:07 AM, julian-wolf said:

Looking for recommendations for slim–straight double black jeans with room in the thighs. In particular, I need 25.5"+ upper thighs at a 33" post-stretch waist. Higher rise is preferred, but I could do something in the mid-rise range if necessary as long as it's 11"+ in front and 15.5"+ in back. In short: a 30s–50s cut is ideal. I tend to prefer Japanese brands' aesthetics, but MIJ isn't a strict requirement if there're good options elsewhere.

I've been searching for a while now, and I've found absolutely nothing that fits these criteria, so any pointers are greatly appreciated.

edit: Just came across the Momotaro 0605-B, which I guess I hadn't seen before since it's exclusive to S&S. This seems promising, but remains slimmer through the legs than I'd prefer, so I'm still definitely looking for other options.

Not the most recent of questions but in case you were left empty handed, Iron Heart have released their 888-cut in super black non-fade 21Oz., in the meantime; the model number is IH-888S-SB.

This would seem to meet all your criteria, as although they are technically "tapered", the tapering is subtle enough to not be too far removed from being straight… If that makes sense.

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^ Thanks. Unfortunately, like the 634, the 888 seems to be too slim for me through the thighs. You're right that, if there were just a bit more room, the taper wouldn't be enough to bother me—seems not too different from the above-mentioned Momotaros. Now if only they'd do an overdyed or SBG iteration of the 1955…

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The rise on the 888 is a good inch higher than that of those Momos, changing the way the top block + thighs fit... There's also more room in the knee. But yeah, 1955 has even more room here and there and even higher rise, I shall eternally remain regretful that I didn't grab those in UHR when they were still available. :( It seems massively unlikely at this point that there'd be more iterations to come...

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Yeah, I don't expect the 1955 to show up in anything other than the standard 21 oz. denim any time in the near (or distant, for that matter) future. Oh well : (

Meanwhile, you're right that the rise on the 888 is higher, but I don't see that that having much effect on the way the thighs fit—after all, neither cut has much of a drop crotch.

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Yea... I guess I was thinking that if you wear your jeans at the same height regardless of their rise, when both are high(-ish), then the one with an extra inch would leave you with more room in the top block. I realize this might not be a thing, actually, but my pairs are all similar enough that I automatically wear them the same and always enjoy the pair with the highest rise the most.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Warehouse for the more defined fades and darker denim, Resolute for the more modern fit and that late 60s denim.

Both jeans use unsanforized denim and can be bought either raw or one-wash. It's up to your personal preference but these days I often buy one-wash to be safe in the long run.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Considering selling my lightly worn 3sixteen shadow selvedge type 3 after finally admitting it's a bit snug!  Ant sufu'ers intrested let me know before it goes on the usual sites..

Size M.

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if ever going there...

either something simple like stan ray

or the p-44 model always seems like a tough one to make work: but would be worth it... nice hbt versions out there by buzz or tcb (also often labelled as crawling or monkey pants)

[but buzz's xl is still only around 34 waist; so never happen' over this side of the internet...]

Edited by bartlebyyphonics
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