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Critical Observer

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About Critical Observer

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  • occupation:
    law student
  • denim
    size 32
  • t-shirt
  • shoes
    us 9 uk 8.5 eu 43 jp 27

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  1. Waywt 2018 (denim version)

    That's a boss outfit and great job grabbing that t-shirt, looks ace! Made in 'murica, surely?
  2. THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

    Yea... I guess I was thinking that if you wear your jeans at the same height regardless of their rise, when both are high(-ish), then the one with an extra inch would leave you with more room in the top block. I realize this might not be a thing, actually, but my pairs are all similar enough that I automatically wear them the same and always enjoy the pair with the highest rise the most.
  3. THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

    The rise on the 888 is a good inch higher than that of those Momos, changing the way the top block + thighs fit... There's also more room in the knee. But yeah, 1955 has even more room here and there and even higher rise, I shall eternally remain regretful that I didn't grab those in UHR when they were still available. It seems massively unlikely at this point that there'd be more iterations to come...
  4. Samurai Jeans

    The lot number changes by year. Lot 17 would be from year 2014.
  5. They are Lee Europe stuff, manufactured in Poland/Turkey, and the availability in the US is generally speaking very limited. There’s a guy from L.A. who knows basically everything there is to know about Lee and their products and I think he is a member here too, you could check out the Lee master-thread as he could give you tons more info. Edit: @428CJis the man.
  6. THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

    Not the most recent of questions but in case you were left empty handed, Iron Heart have released their 888-cut in super black non-fade 21Oz., in the meantime; the model number is IH-888S-SB. This would seem to meet all your criteria, as although they are technically "tapered", the tapering is subtle enough to not be too far removed from being straight… If that makes sense.
  7. Shoes that look better with age...

    Haven't got that far yet. But what I have learnt so far is that they have the good old 4811 last of White's fame in their disposal as well as the #55, probably quite similar to the iteration they use at Nick's; apart from these 2 and the low-arch HNW last, they also have, and I shall quote Frank himself, "others with high and low arch". I suspect their main workboot last is something similar to Nick's 11067, which as per Nick's has higher arch compared to 4811. If I can manage to engage Frank & co. in a bit more frequent fashion, I would like to spec a boot based on their Type I Commander with the "11067" last, "#4 toe" (don't know what do they call this at Frank's), 7" height, lace-to-toe, Vibram #430, with black rought-out toe and heel-counter, smooth walnut upper, chocolate (or tan teton if possible) rough-out backstay. I have also learnt that Nick's are willing to humor "special orders", for example "workboots" in "dress leathers"; this is not available on their website nor through Baker's, special orders need to be arranged directly via email/phone. This makes them a really tempting proposition, since their "casual" models don't tickle my fancy but many of their newly-available fancy leathers do.
  8. Shoes that look better with age...

    Not the insoles but I spent the summer in the tropics wearing Spenco flip-flops; they are nice and comfortable, but I find their claims of "arch-support" wildly exaggerated
  9. Shoes that look better with age...

    Back from the hiatus, I thought I had replied back then but apparently not as my message was saved in the editor. I wrote: Single midsole, regular heel-height, Vibram #269 out sole, close trim, black edges, Seidel brown domain leather, lined, 5332 last, #2 toe, black hardware (more like gunmetal) This is the "stock" version of this shoe, ordered directly from Nick's. I'm still a bit on the fence regarding the fit (not that it would be realistic to send them back) but the arch-ease is quite a bit different from the White's version; not only is it constructed differently (allegedly), but it feels much longer, extending further towards toes. Right now I'm trying to spec a build with Frank's, but communicating with them is hopelessly slow as they reply max. once a week. Realistically, I might go with Nick's instead: I have a bit of a special "Builder Pro" build in my mind.
  10. Shoes that look better with age...

  11. Samurai Jeans

    Those are some proper Indo-fades, the style is certainly distinct. Very nice.
  12. THIS OR THAT? (Use me for all your Should I Buy...? questions)

    You didn't ask for other suggestions but for anyone fancying that style in opulent horsehide, "Jorge" by the The Last Conspiracy delivers:
  13. Shoes that look better with age...

    I’m not a big authority on the subject either, but the gist here is that the workwear (inspired) lace-up shoes/boots are generally derby-style, while oxford is a distinctly more formal, dressier style of a shoe/boot. My Nick’s Manito high-arch ”oxfords” have arrived on the old continent and are currently in the stern yet righteous hands of the local customs authorities; I should have them by midweek, feeling anxious/nervous as ever about this blind-buy.
  14. Shoes that look better with age...

    A shoe like White’s Retro ”oxford” is actually called ”derby”, identifiable by the way the quarters are stitched on top of the vamp, while an actual oxford shoe looks very different, with quarters sewn under the vamp. White’s Retro ”oxford”, a derby shoe: An actual oxford shoe: ”Balmoral” is an alternative way to call an oxford.
  15. Waywt 2018 (denim version)

    I used to stay in Malang for a year as an exchange student and since then worked for my country's embassy in Jakarta for a few years; I'm fluent in your language.