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  1. midnight

    Dior Homme Denim

    Hey everybody. Myself, operationjake, and cotton duck all agreed that the previous Dior Homme Denim thread was getting a bit ridiculous, so we decided to post a new redux thread. We have worked very hard on adding to the FAQ's to include more sizing, stretching, and purchasing information that was not easily accessible previously. If you strongly believe something is missing from this first post, please shoot me a pm and i'll get on it. And please, please, please, no more sizing questions? Thanks a lot guys. DIOR HOMME DENIM FAQ written, compiled, and formatted by TheGrapist, Midnight, and OperationJake *****The real answer to the "What size diors do I buy????" question.***** Due to the fact that everybody is sick of answering individual questions about this, here is, in my opinion, the best way to figure out what size diors you should get. Keep in mind this won't always be completely correct, but its a fuckload better than stating your weight / what size you wear in other brands. Step 1: Find a pair of medium - low rise jeans you currently own (made of non-stretch denim) that fits you well in the waist. Not too snug nor too loose. Step 2: Button this pair of jeans up and align the waist so both the front and back sides of the waistband are directly on top of each other. Step 3: Use a tape measure to measure the waist of the jeans all buttoned up and layed flat, then double this measurement. Step 4: Subtract 3 or 4 from this measurement. I saw 3 or 4 because of the fact that diors are 2 inches larger than tagged. Subtracting 2 to start out with will account for that, while the extra 1-2 inches account for stretching. If you want a pretty basic fit in the waist / are getting a pair of diors that you know have a tendency not to stretch much, subtract 3. If you want a super slim fit / tighter upper block / are buying some diors that you know will stretch a bunch, subtract 4. ****Certain jeans will run smaller / tighter in the waist and top block than others, so in some cases just subtracting 2 will be fine. I personally find sometimes certain jeans like the 17.5cm cuts as well as the mij washed jeans look better with a bit of a slouchier top block, so for those I may just subtract 2. Step 5: Buy. What varieties of Dior Homme denim are offered? Besides the cut, Dior Homme denim is available in a “Made in Japan” (MIJ) version and a “Made in Italy” (MII) version. MIJ denim is of higher quality, tapers more, stretches less and costs more than the MII counterpart. The MIJ version, however, also has slightly larger back pockets than the MII version. How much will Dior Homme denim stretch? Anywhere from 1” to 2.5”, with the raw denim stretching usually around 1.5”. The tighter the denim is on your body, the more they stretch, as with any raw denim. How is Dior Homme denim sized? Dior Homme denim is sized 2” larger than the tagged size. Ex: if the tagged size of a pair of Dior 19cm raw denim is 28, they will measure 15” laid flat (30” around). The cut size (i.e., “19cm” or “21cm”) refers to the hem measurements of a tagged 32” pair of denim. For each size larger or smaller, add or subtract .5”, respectively. Ex: a size 30 in the 19cm cut would actually have a 18cm hem. Where can I buy Dior Homme denim? Dior Homme is mainly available through Dior Homme stores. The three US locations are: Las Vegas, NV - (702)-735-1345 Beverly Hills, CA - (310)-247-8003 New York, NY - (212)-421-6009 Dior Homme jeans are sometimes also sold in stores such as Saks, Barneys, Harrods, and other fashion department stores. Generally only a few high-selling locations will get the line, so it is best to call and make sure they do, in fact, carry Dior Homme before actually going. Additionally, online stores and proxies offer a large selection of current Dior Homme items. Some online sites selling Dior Homme are: www.eluxury.com www.luisaviaroma.com Be warned, however, that the customs fee from ordering a single pair of jeans from LVR will be about 60 dollars. www.brownsfashion.com www.yoox.com www.diabro.net and others. Proxies can be found nearly everywhere with the right hookups, but the most common on SuperFuture is TheGrapist. His thread can be viewed at: http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=23121 What’s special about Dior Homme denim?/What cuts are available from Dior Homme? The main attraction of Dior Homme denim is the cut. The three main cuts available from Dior Homme are: the 21cm cut, the 17.5cm cut, and the popular 19cm cut. Each refers to the hem measurements. Hedi based these cuts off of two A.P.C. cuts. The 21cm is similar to the New Standard, and the 19cm is similar to the New Cure. How much do I size up/down for Dior Homme Denim? For the 19cm cut, it’s generally best to size down about two to achieve a typical “Dior Homme slim fit.” The legs should be snug and quite slim while the waist and top block remains comfortable yet boxy. The black raws are generally slightly slimmer than the indigo's, but this does not mean you should change your size completely. They will also take slightly longer to stretch out, but will in the end stretch about the same amount as the indigo version. The blacks take a while longer to fade, as well, so do not purchase them if you are looking for a jean with that quality. For the 17.5cm cut you may size down one to achieve a slightly skinny fit, or stay true to size to achieve a fit slightly skinnier than a pair of 19cm sized down two. For the 21cm cut, it’s generally best to size down the same amount as one would with the 19cm raws. Is the raw 19cm or 21cm selvage? Etc. UNLESS it is specifically labeled as selvage, no denim cut or model from Dior Homme is selvage. Who designed the 19cm and 21cm cuts? Who is the current designer for Dior Homme? As most of you know, Hedi Slimane was the founder and designer of Dior Homme from 2001 to 2007. To be precise, his final collection was F/W07. He was the one who created both the 19cm and 21cm cuts. The new designer for Dior Homme is Kris Van Assche. Even though the designer has changed, the cut of the jeans has not. Please do not go asking around for F/W07 raws. You will simply be wasting your time. The cut size (i.e., “19cm” or “21cm”) refers to the hem measurements of a tagged 32” pair of denim. For each size larger or smaller, add or subtract .5”, respectively. Ex: a size 30 in the 19cm cut would actually have a 18cm hem. How much does Dior Homme denim shrink? The washed models should not shrink at all as they aren’t raw. The raw denim used to fabricate the MII and MIJ jeans is sanforized, and they should shrink no more than .5” in the waist and .75” in the inseam. What sizes of Dior Homme denim are available? 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, and TheGrapist has stated he has seen a size 38 before. Size 26’s are not sold at this time to any stores in America, but if needed, PM TheGrapist and he may be able to procure a pair. Reference Codes When dealing and trading Dior Homme, the reference code is often used to place the item within the season it was produced. Here we decipher a typical/standard code: 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8 (SS'05 blue glitter jeans). '5' refers to the year, that is, 2005. 'EH' refers to the season, that is, Eté (Summer). HH refers to 'Hiver' (Winter). '101' refers to the item group, in this case, trousers (Pantalon). Other examples: 102 refers to blazers (Veste), 105 to shirts (Chemise) and so forth. The next 4 numbers '5678' should refer to the specific item, with jeans it will reveal the type of cut as the entire 16 digit reference code will only differ by the first 2 digits in this set of 4 numbers for the differing cut. As noted earlier, the # for this item is 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8, referring to the 21cm cut. The # for the 19cm variant is 5EH1011678 E47 B6A8. 'E47',is the fabric code. The last 4, 'B6A8', is the colour code. In this particular case, 'B' refers to Bleu (blue), as in indigo blue, the main colour of the jean. 'A' refers to Argent (silver), the colour of the glitter. Another example would be B6N0 - the colour code for the SS'03 released classic blue distressed clawmark jeans painted over in matte black paint. The B6 again refers to the base colour bleu whilst the N0 refers to the black paint ('N' for Noir - black). Links to previous Dior Homme threads: The old Dior Homme Denim thread Are all Dior Homme raw denim jeans made with japanese denim? Authenticating, seeing the difference between fake and real raw Dior denim Dior denim (2005 thread) Dior denim (2006 thread, also discussing the selvedge version a bit) Dior Homme Raw 21cm *Worn/Pictures* Selvedge Dior jeans (pictures)
  2. midnight

    Pure Blue Japan

    So I thought it might be good to start a new thread for Pure Blue Japan denim as a whole instead of having sepperate threads for each individual model. If anybody has anything they think I left out just pm me. Pure Blue Japan is a Japanese clothing company that specializes in jeans but also carries other types of clothing. Pure Blue Japan jeans are easily purchased through Blue in Green SoHo, or by using a proxy from Japan. No PBJ jeans have acruates right now, but instead will have a small embroidered indigo leaf on the left edge of the back right pocket. PBJ jeans are usually avalible in both raw and one-wash form, depending on where you are purchasing them from. Most of the jeans will have an inseam varying from 32-34.5 inches, so do not expect much stacking. Store info: 150-0001 
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 3-31-20-102 
 TEL/03-3408-6644 FAX/03-3408-6826 PBJ Jean Models: Al-001: The denim for this jean is dyed with natural indigo, as opposed to synthetic which is used on most jeans. It is much heavier than the other pbj denim, coming in at 18.5 ounces. The fit is similar to that of the XX-03/6, meaning they are somewhat loose and vintage fitting. They are also very slubby. These will retain their color for longer than the other pbj's, but if you are patient and want a pair of jeans that will fade into something beautiful, this is what you want. They are avalible in even sizes from 26-42. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/ai/5p/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=21&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 XX-003: This jean has a vintage straight fit. It is made out of PBJ’s well known 14.5 ounce super slubby denim, which has an indigo warp and white weft. They are produced in sizes 25-34, and then 36, 38, 40, and 42. It is avalible in indigo only. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/xx003/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=23&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 XX-004: This jean is a slim through the waist to knees, but then it widens out into a bootcut fit. It is made using the same slubby 14.5 ounce denim that is used in the XX-003 and XX-005 models. It flared out from the inside of the leg, which means the selvedge line is still intact. This is also avalible only in indigo. They are offered in sizes 28-34, and then 36. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/02xx004_shrunk_to_fit/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=41&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 XX-005: Their most popular slim fit jean. It is slim like the XX-004 through the thigh to knee, but then remains as a straight fit from the knee to hem. This means that the knee is exactly the same size as the hem. This is also made out of the slubby denim. This is the only pair that is avalible in both black & indigo. They are made in sizes 28-34, and then 36. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/04xx005_shrunk_to_fit_black/ http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/03xx005_shrunk_to_fit/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=45&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 Here’s an example of headtowall’s pair after about a year or so of wear. http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=280356&postcount=95 XX-006: This jean has a vintage fit, which is similar to that of the XX-03. It is, however, made of a different denim. This denim is lighter in color and weight than the denim that is used for the XX-003/4/5 models. First of all, it is 13.5 ounces instead of 14.5. Also, it uses alternating medium indigo and lightish medium indigo threads to give it an overall vintage & streaky look. It is also non-slubby. It ages into a more vintage looking denim. The denim is weaved using vintage, low-tech techniques. They are offered from size 25-34, and then 36, 38, 40, and 42. http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=2223&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/05xx006_neo_vintage_shrunk_to/ XX-007: This is a very nice jean with the same slim fit as the XX-005. It is different, however, due to not only having an indigo warp, but also having an indigo weft. It created a very deep indigo denim which appears black in dim lighting, but is blue under sunlight. The denim itself is very slubby as well. The stitching on this jean is different from all of the others because of it being black, as opposed to yellow or orange. They are avalible in sizes 28-34, and then 36. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/06xx007deep_indigo_shrunk_to_f/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=2805&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 XX-008: This jean is made of the same streaky denim as the XX-006. It is different, however, due to its slim, XX-005/7 fit. It is offered from size 28-34, and then 36. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/07xx008_neo_vintage_shrunk_to/ http://blueingreensoho.com/site/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=3116&category_id=&manufacturer_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=28 XX-009: This is the vintage, looser fit version of the XX-007. It is made with the exact same slubby, dual indigo denim. It is offered in sizes 25-34, as well as 36, 38, 40, and 42. http://www.purebluejapan.jp/bottoms/02_5p/08xx009deep_indigo_shrunk_to_f/ BiG doesn’t actually sell this pair of jeans, so a proxy is the best bet if you need these. Also, thanks a lot BiG and PBJ for the information I used to create this thread.
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