TCB

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

On 10/17/2025 at 2:47 PM, PrettyBoyTony said:

I'm guessing these seem a lot cooler in the Japanese market.

As a proud Essex man, I'll always have a soft spot for Reebok. But these jeans... Not for me.

[Cold Summer]

I like my Late S40s jeans so much that I ordered the black version. I haven't had black jeans in forever but I'm starting to feel like this is a noticeable gap in my wardrobe. I took the same size (33) as in my other Late S40s. I ended up grabbing them from Franklin And Poe, along with a 34" hem job. I was inclined to get them from direct from TCB, but when I did the math, accounting for the likely duties charge and shipping meant that it came to pretty much the same price. I don't care about fading on black jeans at all, personally, but wearing these once or twice a week will mix things up a bit. Will share some pics when they show up.

I've also started wearing my Late S40s jacket about every other day since the weather has gotten cooler and I'm really enjoying it, it'll surely be my most worn jacket of any type through fall and winter. I highly recommend this for anybody looking for a Type I with a good fit and reasonable price.

[space_cowboy]

1 hour ago, Cold Summer said:

I like my Late S40s jeans so much that I ordered the black version. I haven't had black jeans in forever but I'm starting to feel like this is a noticeable gap in my wardrobe. I took the same size (33) as in my other Late S40s. I ended up grabbing them from Franklin And Poe, along with a 34" hem job. I was inclined to get them from direct from TCB, but when I did the math, accounting for the likely duties charge and shipping meant that it came to pretty much the same price. I don't care about fading on black jeans at all, personally, but wearing these once or twice a week will mix things up a bit. Will share some pics when they show up.

I've also started wearing my Late S40s jacket about every other day since the weather has gotten cooler and I'm really enjoying it, it'll surely be my most worn jacket of any type through fall and winter. I highly recommend this for anybody looking for a Type I with a good fit and reasonable price.

The blanket lined S40s jacket is on sale at BEARS' which is tempting with winter approaching - but alas the duties/shipping makes it not as appealing.

[Alec Leamas]

5 hours ago, space_cowboy said:

The blanket lined S40s jacket is on sale at BEARS' which is tempting with winter approaching - but alas the duties/shipping makes it not as appealing.

I don't think I'd actually registered that they'd produced a lined late s40's jacket - that is verrrrrrry nice indeed!!

[Cold Summer]

Here’s the black Late S40s. Fit is great, pretty much the same as my indigo pair. Nice denim too, slightly heavier at 14 oz, and probably not a custom fabric, but it’s double black and unsanforized so that’s good enough for me. 
 

Edited November 6, 2025 by Cold Summer

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

On 11/6/2025 at 6:26 PM, Cold Summer said:

and probably not a custom fabric

What do you mean by that? That it’s not custom made for TCB? 
 

I haven’t seen their black on black fabric anywhere else personally. 

[Cold Summer]

Yep. If it was just a black version of the Late S40s denim then it would look and feel exactly the same, but having the two side by side, they're clearly different. For one thing, the black denim is 14 oz, the indigo 13.5 oz.

Probably because of the economics involved, I think they elected to find an existing fabric offered by a mill rather than design their own from scratch, but it's possible it's an original fabric they designed. I would just expect it to be more like a black version of the indigo Late S40s denim if that were the case.

[julian-wolf]

38 minutes ago, Cold Summer said:

If it was just a black version of the Late S40s denim then it would look and feel exactly the same, but having the two side by side, they're clearly different

It’s the same black denim as they’ve used for all of their yearly black jeans releases for a while. It predates the denim used for the late S40s jeans by like 4 years, so of course they’re not going to be the same. I don’t think it’s particularly important one way or the other whether it’s “custom” or not, but this seems like a strange basis for making that claim

Edited November 8, 2025 by julian-wolf

[ATWM]

Have some black 30’s in storage from a few years back, hard to tell in pics but denim seems the same. We can compare fade properties in a decade or so, whenever I get to them! 

[Cold Summer]

On 11/8/2025 at 12:51 PM, julian-wolf said:

It’s the same black denim as they’ve used for all of their yearly black jeans releases for a while. It predates the denim used for the late S40s jeans by like 4 years, so of course they’re not going to be the same. I don’t think it’s particularly important one way or the other whether it’s “custom” or not, but this seems like a strange basis for making that claim

I thought about that, but looking at other black denim offerings from TCB's site, the 505 BKBK and 20s BKBK both have different fabrics so I wasn't sure at a glance that this 14 oz fabric had been used on other jeans, or if they selected (or designed?) them on a model-by-model basis. Either way, it's a great fabric and I'm quite happy with it, I prefer it to the white/ecru weft Flat Head black jeans I've handled before.

[julian-wolf]

I could be wrong (like just completely wrong about the whole thing), but I would bet that the 505 would be the odd one out since those are pre-shrunk

[nick682]

Is the denim on the 50's and Late S40's the same? 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

1 hour ago, nick682 said:

Is the denim on the 50's and Late S40's the same? 

Nope

[space_cowboy]

On 11/9/2025 at 8:50 PM, julian-wolf said:

I could be wrong (like just completely wrong about the whole thing), but I would bet that the 505 would be the odd one out since those are pre-shrunk

Somewhat related - I think the MOTOR's I recently picked up uses the 505 denim too. Both 12 oz. and both descriptions similarly state "primarily #7 warp and #9 weft". I've been trying to do some digging to uncover what exactly the TCB/MOTO relationship is. Does anyone know if they make all their denim products or just certain pieces? 

[Alec Leamas]

On 10/27/2025 at 2:36 AM, Ciabatta said:

How’s the denim on the S40’s?? Is it forgiving and stretch much? I’m torn between a 36 and 38. 

Further to this - did you pick up a pair of the S40's?

I'm pondering the possibility of an S40's / Late S40's hybrid tux and I need some real life measurements of the original (but recently bought) S40's to help make my mind up!

Looking at a 36 myself.

I also realise there is tonnes of info on those jeans around from years back, including the comp on here that I've browsed many times - but I'm looking for recent measurements in case anything's changed etc

[PBTony]

50s update. 7 months of regular wear and frequent washing

[Ciabatta]

On 11/22/2025 at 10:33 AM, Alec Leamas said:

Further to this - did you pick up a pair of the S40's?

I'm pondering the possibility of an S40's / Late S40's hybrid tux and I need some real life measurements of the original (but recently bought) S40's to help make my mind up!

Looking at a 36 myself.

I also realise there is tonnes of info on those jeans around from years back, including the comp on here that I've browsed many times - but I'm looking for recent measurements in case anything's changed etc

I actually decided I didn’t need another pair of jeans for now…….. and so I picked up a pair of the black William Gibson chinos. 

[SameOl]

Sizing 20s jacket?

I am thinking of buying 20s jacket. I have the older s40s jacket in size 44 and it fits perfectly. I can wear a hoodie under it and it fits also well with just t-shirt. In sugar cane type II I wear size 40.

Because the further shrinkage, tcb courages to size 1 up from the s40s jacket size even though the measurements of 20s jacket in the size 44 are already nearly one size bigger than the older s40s jacket, especially in the width. The size 46 feels really wide in the paper.

Could someone give me an advice with the sizing or post the measurements (shoulder width, armhole to armohole, neck to hem, hem width, shoulder to cuff) of several times washed 20s jacket in size 44 or 46, please?

 

 

 

[fresh1]

These are my 50's I've been wearing for a couple of years.   These may be my favorite pair I've owned. I've had to do a few repairs on the pocket stitching, cuff repairs and one of the pocket bags is torn to the point where I probably shouldn't use it, but everything else is intact. 

 

Edited November 24, 2025 by fresh1

[Alec Leamas]

On 11/24/2025 at 3:06 AM, Ciabatta said:

I actually decided I didn’t need another pair of jeans for now…….. and so I picked up a pair of the black William Gibson chinos. 

Ahhh okay, no worries, great choice in the end!

I did email Ryo about the size chart on the s40's - as I'd remembered some debacle on the s40's comp about size chart scaling or something. He did confirm that the measurements on there are correct and have been taken by him on an actual pair.

Further consideration required from me - I'm kind of looking to oversize them and the megarise is really appealing to me!

[PBTony]

23 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

Ahhh okay, no worries, great choice in the end!

I did email Ryo about the size chart on the s40's - as I'd remembered some debacle on the s40's comp about size chart scaling or something. He did confirm that the measurements on there are correct and have been taken by him on an actual pair.

Further consideration required from me - I'm kind of looking to oversize them and the megarise is really appealing to me!

This I need to see @Alec Leamas you might not even need to wear a shirt 😂

[Thicolas Rage]

On 11/22/2025 at 10:33 AM, Alec Leamas said:

Further to this - did you pick up a pair of the S40's?

I'm pondering the possibility of an S40's / Late S40's hybrid tux and I need some real life measurements of the original (but recently bought) S40's to help make my mind up!

Looking at a 36 myself.

I also realise there is tonnes of info on those jeans around from years back, including the comp on here that I've browsed many times - but I'm looking for recent measurements in case anything's changed etc

No experience with the 40's jeans but if you do end up going for the Late 40's jacket I would say no need to oversize on it (unless you are going for length). The shoulder and hem measurements are quite wide and the hem in particular will start to flare out pretty dramatically! I've got a good bit of room at the waist of the jacket unless I am wearing a sweatshirt with it.

[Alec Leamas]

2 hours ago, Thicolas Rage said:

No experience with the 40's jeans but if you do end up going for the Late 40's jacket I would say no need to oversize on it (unless you are going for length). The shoulder and hem measurements are quite wide and the hem in particular will start to flare out pretty dramatically! I've got a good bit of room at the waist of the jacket unless I am wearing a sweatshirt with it.

This is good to know, I much prefer the look and dimensions of the late 40s jacket.

Always prefer a more cropped jacket too!

[PBTony]

Found my orginal hems that Bears had sent after hemming. Pretty cool to see how far they've come in a relatively short period of time 

[Ciabatta]

Are those in a 36? What's the waist and thigh measurement looking like?

[PBTony]

39 minutes ago, Ciabatta said:

Are those in a 36? What's the waist and thigh measurement looking like?

Yep 36. Waist is 43 cm across and thigh (measured from crotch) is 13 inches

[SameOl]

On 11/24/2025 at 12:50 PM, SameOl said:

Sizing 20s jacket?

I am thinking of buying 20s jacket. I have the older s40s jacket in size 44 and it fits perfectly. I can wear a hoodie under it and it fits also well with just t-shirt. In sugar cane type II I wear size 40.

Because the further shrinkage, tcb courages to size 1 up from the s40s jacket size even though the measurements of 20s jacket in the size 44 are already nearly one size bigger than the older s40s jacket, especially in the width. The size 46 feels really wide in the paper.

Could someone give me an advice with the sizing or post the measurements (shoulder width, armhole to armohole, neck to hem, hem width, shoulder to cuff) of several times washed 20s jacket in size 44 or 46, please?

So I bought 20s jacket in size 46 because Ryo mailed that it might shrink nearly 2cm in every dimension.

I have long arms so I had to size according to the arm lenght (shoulder width + sleeve lenght). The 20s jacket has shorter sleeve lenght but wider shoulder than 40s. So, I ended up in my calculations that the size 44 would definetely have too short sleeves after the washes and picked up the size 46, even though in paper it seemed really wide especially compared to my 40s jacket.

I gave the jacket delicate 60C wash in the washing machine and it ended up to shrink quite a bit.

Before wash

Shoulder width 53,5cm

Sleeve lenght 63,5cm

Width 59cm

Hem width 55cm

Length 64cm

After 60c wash

Shoulder width 52,5cm

Sleeve lenght 62,5cm

Width 57cm

Hem width 53cm

Length 62,5cm

I am happy that I sized up from 40s jacket because the sleeve lenght is perfect now. I also am really happy that jacket is still a few cm longer than more traditional type 1s which make me look way too long legged😅. The jacket could be a bit narrower but maybe i am just used to 40s jacket and will embrace the wider fit later. Maybe it will still shrink a bit in next washes.

A potato photo about the fit

Edited December 4, 2025 by SameOl

[ColdsnapBryan]

On 10/27/2025 at 3:36 PM, Ciabatta said:

How’s the denim on the S40’s?? Is it forgiving and stretch much? I’m torn between a 36 and 38. 

I usually buy 34 pants. I have a pair of 36 in 50s, s40's and late 40s jeans - and they all fit. 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

Just ordered the baggy 50s. Anyone here have them already? 

[space_cowboy]

1 hour ago, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

Just ordered the baggy 50s. Anyone here have them already? 

I've been eyeing them hard, most likely my next purchase. How did you size them?