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Shoes that look better with age...

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33 minutes ago, tod said:

^^ though it does say that he oiled them regularly. only so much you can do..

Just more proof that boots do need occasional cleaning. :P

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13 hours ago, tod said:

^^ though it does say that he oiled them regularly. only so much you can do..

with snake oil, i tell ya! :ph34r::D

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Anyone here able to post a single sole Whites Nomad in brown or black chromexcel or not with a Vibram 700 composition half sole?  All I keep seeing is double sole only.  Is there a reason for this due to this type of sole?

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Wrong post

Edited by mlwdp

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Not supposed to do any shopping until June, so I'm hiding these new Lofgrens at the office away from the little lady. :ph34r::P

IMG_1839.JPG

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@Iron Horse Where did you pick up those Lofgrens? I'd like to get them in size US11, JPN29, but can't seem to find them anywhere.

Edited by mrman

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1 hour ago, mrman said:

@Iron Horse Where did you pick up those Lofgrens? I'd like to get them in size US11, JPN29, but can't seem to find them anywhere.

I got those from Standard and Strange, the last size 10 they had in the sugarcane denim. Looks like both they and Self Edge are sold out in your size; however, TSPTR has a standard denim version in size 11. John Lofgren makes sneakers for them:

https://tsptr.com/collections/accessories/products/cadet-sneakers-denim?variant=31203614593

Edited by Iron Horse

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Today I officially joined the Whites boots club.  Ordered the Nomad in Black chromexcel with Vibram 700 sole in brown edge in size 6D. I don't see myself buying anymore boots at this point anymore since I've been wanting a engineer boot for awhile.

Now the waiting game begins. 

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nice one! look forward to see them. A few days ago I've scored my second pair of second hand White's too. Semidress this time. Will post pics when I have them...

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3 minutes ago, volvo240thebest said:

nice one! look forward to see them. A few days ago I've scored my second pair of second hand White's too. Semidress this time. Will post pics when I have them...

Yeah I actually debated between the Nomad and Smokejumper but then I took a look at my Unmarkeds and they somewhat sufficed as a Smokejumper alternative based on the silhoulette.  I kept hearing about "white bite" and the functionality of the boots in 700 lug sole as I do not need them for work and they  would have taken a lot of time to wear in let alone the sheer clunkiness of them.  I probably would have hated them honestly due to pain.  I even debated on getting a double sole (in both boots,mind you) with a Vibram half sole for the Nomads.  I like the price of under $500 and I don't have enough money to pay over $800 for no boot like Clinch etc.  Thats ridiculous but I understand it's going towards quality.

I'll break in the Nomads during the summer and just rotate my oxfords with them until cooler months.

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Super old Indy boots think the color is brick. Probably had them about 8 years and with some minor stitching repairs still going strong

 

image.jpg

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13 hours ago, corporalclegg said:

Super old Indy boots think the color is brick. Probably had them about 8 years and with some minor stitching repairs still going strong

Did you have the speedhooks replaced with those contrasting ones, or was it a special build to begin with..?  (Look great btw.)

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^not my boots, but I have similar age Alden boots, and the brown paint on the speed hooks has mostly chipped off, leaving the bright steel showing through

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If anybody here has small feet and is contemplating on ordering Whites from Baker Shoes...

So I spoke today to Kyle and he told me that Whites last only start from 6.5D.  I measured in at 6.5D and assumed that I would need a 6D in the Nomad for my boot.  I'm waiting on them clearing it up and wondering if the 6.5D will suffice enough.  My Nomad order:

 
  • Toe Vamp Leather: Black Chrome Excel by Horween
  • Upper (Shaft) Leather: Black Chrome Excel by Horween
  • Counter Leather: Black Chrome Excel by Horween
  • Heel Base: Standard
  • Heel Lifts: Standard
  • Midsole: Single
  • Edge: Brown
  • Sole: Vibram 700
  • Size - Length: 7
  • Size - Width: D (medium)

Size Choices only start at 7 D btw.

Edited by mlwdp

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You know what they say with people

with small feet

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Have you guys heard of a channelled insole Goodyear welt? I was on the Viberg website recently and I saw this. I don't know much about shoemaking, so I'm not sure what to think of it. I googled it and Yuketen came up as a company that uses it on some (or all?) of their shoes. 

@mikecch, I'm sure you've heard of this. I'm guessing this construction will be more costly as it is supposedly more labour intensive than typical gemming practices. I wonder how much less likely welts will be prone to failing using this method because I haven't been wearing boots for a long time and can't say from experience.

 

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From my limited knowledge of shoe/boot making, the original Goodyear welt was made by hand by cutting a rib into the midsole. The machine was created to make the process easier and quicker and get the same result. I think it's one of the coolest parts of boot construction. The glued-on ribbing was made to make the process even easier. Gemming/ribbing gets bagged on a lot, but I've personally not heard of any quality boot failing because the ribbing came unglued from the midsole. I've been told by fellas here, more in the know than I, thatmost high-end shoe/boot makers use some sort of glued-on ribbing for the GYW. It could be said that gemming/ribbing is the dirty little secret of GYW, and all the GYW-fan-boys are being duped. 

 

Youtube has many videos of various methods. If you search for Redwing, you can clearly see on their mass-produced work boots that they glue on a synthetic/plastic ply-rib to the midsole. If you search for Rios of Mercedes - AWESOME BOOTS! - you can see a good demo of them using their ribbing machine, as Viberg now has. 

 

In the meantime, check out these mad crazy welting skills. To really appreciate it you have to watch the whole thing. 

 

 

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Unmarked does the same thing I believe.

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8 hours ago, propellerbeanie said:

Have you guys heard of a channelled insole Goodyear welt? I was on the Viberg website recently and I saw this. I don't know much about shoemaking, so I'm not sure what to think of it. I googled it and Yuketen came up as a company that uses it on some (or all?) of their shoes. 

@mikecch, I'm sure you've heard of this. I'm guessing this construction will be more costly as it is supposedly more labour intensive than typical gemming practices. I wonder how much less likely welts will be prone to failing using this method because I haven't been wearing boots for a long time and can't say from experience.

 

Hey, I've seen similar discussions in the past on Style Forum in the context of bespoke Goodyear welted shoes.

As far as my conversations with cobblers and other shoe enthusiasts go, there does not seem to be much anecdotal or hard evidence to suggest gemming with linen canvas is a less secure method than other methods of attaching the insole to the welt. I've never seen or heard welts 'failing' in real life, and most people talk about gemming vs channel stitch in terms of number of potential resoles (i.e. how many decades), not whether the construct fails within a few years. The ironic thing is that people who would care about this usually have way too many shoes and boots for any of their footwear to reach the final re-build. 

Good on Viberg for wanting to produce a more traditional GYW, but as with anything from manufacturers & shops, a bit of retail spin is to be expected. The GYW market is, after all, much more saturated & competitive compared with their traditional Pacific NW stitch-down market - spend a couple hundred more than a pair of Viberg's and you can have higher end custom or even bespoke - so naturally they'll be wanting to differentiate themselves somehow.

 

Edit: Short version of what I'm typing is that...I wouldn't buy a particular brand based on the lone fact they use channelled insole rather than linen gemming. 

Edited by mikecch

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Really enjoyed my Oak Street Bootmakers Indigo Rough-Out Dainite Trench Boot  (Made in USA, Indigo dyed in Fujino, Japan).
Had some lovely indigo fades!

 

24_IMG_3957.JPG

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I seem to be blessed with a amazing good luck at finding second hand pairs of White's.

Just received these. Semidress, standard brown dress leather, standard heel heigh, vibram 700 sole. Superb boot alltogether, with a lovely patina. Just the right amount of upswing toe I like.

hDgUHFU.jpg?1

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4 hours ago, volvo240thebest said:

I seem to be blessed with a amazing good luck at finding second hand pairs of White's.

Just received these. Semidress, standard brown dress leather, standard heel heigh, vibram 700 sole. Superb boot alltogether, with a lovely patina. Just the right amount of upswing toe I like.

hDgUHFU.jpg?1

Can i ask how your White's compare size wise with other boots you own..? Thanks!

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vans us 10.5

converse all star us 10 (although it's funny as they mark the same pair of shoes US10/UK10/eur 44 which doesn't make sense, it should be US10/UK9.5/eur 44)

Whites, these are a perfect fit on me and they're a US 9.5 E width

Anyhoo my size usual size is EU 44, very often I size up half size to accomodate my extra width.

 

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Whites wasn't able to do the last for my size on the Nomad so I redid my order with the Smokejumper at Baker's:

  Smoke Jumper
  • Last: Standard
  • Toe Vamp Leather: Black Bull Hide
  • Upper (Shaft) Leather: Black Bull Hide
  • Height: 6"
  • Counter Leather: Black Bull Hide
  • Leather Liner: Cream
  • Toe Cap: No Thanks
  • Toe Cap Leather Color: None
  • Celastic Toe Box: Single Celastic Toe
  • Steel Toe: No Thanks
  • Hardware: Black Eyes & Hooks
  • Top: Rolled Top
  • Midsole: Single
  • Edge: Black
  • Sole: Vibram 700
  • Lace Design: Plain Toe

Wesco Boss was not in the budget like the Nomad was.  Disappointed but I'll live.

 
Edited by mlwdp

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FBD699FC-C41C-4E98-AAC2-E242A19695FC_zps

JUST HOW EXACTLY DID THIS GUY BREAK THESE DOUBLE MIDSOLE SMOKEJUMPERS IN?!?!?

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I think those are one of the murder weapons in Clue

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No celastic toes and maybe wetted the insides and pressed the boot. Down. To attain that turn up

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