Levi's Vintage Clothing

[dr.house]

I have a perhaps obvious and noobish question about the inseam length of LVC denim. Most Japanese denim has a long inseam for stacking, cuffing, or hemming. But the overall length does not really change the fit of the denim.

For other types of pants, chinos, etc, the inseam length changes the way that the pants fit. For example a pair of pants with a longer inseam is designed to fit the body of a taller person so the cut of the thigh length and taper are taken into account.

Is this also true for LVC? Would buying a pair with a longer inseam change the fit through the legs?

(Double or triple) cuffing changes the silhouette as well as a too long & stacked pair. Get the right size & inseam and you'll get the right silhouette imo. The right inseam allows a single cuff while still getting enough stacking (works at least good for me).

[airfrogusmc]

Yeah, 100% agree with you there AF. Levis vintage clothing relies heavily on its' heritage for marketing, so why doesn't it go straight to the source to ensure accuracy (just look at the highly inaccurate 1927 501, which is based on the 'Heath' jean)

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I mean they have this Killer archive and a real expert .I donno call me silly but if it were my biz I would at least consult her before going to production.

[chris_n]

Yes Lynn is really cool but whats up with Levis? You think LVC would at least consult her on whether they're getting the detail right, wouldn't ya think?

i completely agree with you and I honestly don't know why, although she didn't say anything about NOT consulting for LVC.

(it would be obvious to me to consult someone like Lynn for things of that nature)

[baron von korff]

im really not up to date on LVC happenings. i have pictures saved from a year ago from dust and wrath... like scans from a look book. they are fucking awesome. anyone a=have any newer LVC look book pictures?

[Paul T]

i completely agree with you and I honestly don't know why, although she didn't say anything about NOT consulting for LVC.

(it would be obvious to me to consult someone like Lynn for things of that nature)

Of course they consult her and visit the archives. She, afaik, doesn't really look at what results from those visits.

[airfrogusmc]

Of course they consult her and visit the archives. She, afaik, doesn't really look at what results from those visits.

Hey Paul thanks for the clarification but I think she should look at the piece before it goes to full production . A lot of things like wrong weird pocket shapes, double needle arcuates and other things could be straightened out before they go to full production. Well, thats my thought.

[entertainment!]

airfrog-I was just reading through the vintage workwear thread and found this post by crownzip, but I remember thinking when I first saw the ad in the New York Times that it would be a good one for you to show your wife when she tells you that you look like a farmer for wearing your bib overalls.

Opened the new NY Times Fashion magazine this morning and was please to see this Ralph Lauren ad. Wonder how many women will be sporting vintage looking overalls on the streets of Manhattan this spring.

[airfrogusmc]

airfrog-I was just reading through the vintage workwear thread and found this post by crownzip, but I remember thinking when I first saw the add in the New York Times that it would be a good one for you to show your wife when she tells you you look like a farmer for wearing your bib overalls.

LoL thats funny. Whats really funny she was going through a Vogue a couple of years ago and came across a Ralph Lauren ad and the model was wearing a RL B-3 looking jacket and suddenly my sheepskin jackets were not as un-cool.

[dr.house]

Everywhere different informations about the denim weight on the 44's:

10 or 12 oz.? Can somebody be precise please? Ah, and how comes that the Cone Mills Denim gets more heavy after wash?

[airfrogusmc]

Everywhere different informations about the denim weight on the 44's:

10 or 12 oz.? Can somebody be precise please? Ah, and how comes that the Cone Mills Denim gets more heavy after wash?

If its denim that shrinks it all gets heavy after wash. Because a sq yard of denim becomes more dense after shrinkage. I think 12 oz for the 44s is right post shrink? About 10 oz pre?

[dr.house]

If its denim that shrinks it all get heavy after wash. Because a sq yard of denim becomes more dense after shrinkage. I think 12 oz for the 44s is right post shrink? About 10 oz pre?

Okay, so all unsanforized denim gains weight postwash.

[salaami]

^yup, and thicker feeling denim is not necessarily heavier either. kiya explained this in an article about how the denim for the dry bones contest. he knows a ton about this kind of stuff

[M1stral]

I know I allready posted a fitpic of my '47's. Got some comments/advice and decided to search some info regarding shrinkage. Paul T's post mentioning washing them at 40 degrees was very helpfull. At least I experienced that after trying it myself.

Here's an update on the fit:

I believe it's better now, but I want some opinions =)

[rnrswitch]

Okay, so all unsanforized denim gains weight postwash.

It doesn't necessarily gain weight, but it gains weight per yard. It just becomes more dense. You probably get it and I am just being a stickler.

[airfrogusmc]

Okay, so all unsanforized denim gains weight postwash.

Only the amount they shrink so if they don't shrink much they don't pick up much weight

[mlyngard]

It's a pretty simple equation:

Denim weight is stated in ounces-per-square-yard

tighter-weave denim shrinks less. Looser weave shrinks more. The more the shrink, the heaver weight per-yard after soak (the denim contracts).

A good example is SDA natural indigo vs. regular. The natural indigo version is 14oz raw, the regular is 15oz. The natural shrinks 2" in the waist, the regular 1". So post-soak, both should be roughly the same weight.

Like Salaami said, a thicker feeling, slubbier denim won't always weigh more either, since the cloth can feel thicker because of slubbiness and yarn 'loft' but weigh less.

[dr.house]

Thanks for all the interesting answers!

[roy6]

I know I allready posted a fitpic of my '47's. Got some comments/advice and decided to search some info regarding shrinkage. Paul T's post mentioning washing them at 40 degrees was very helpfull. At least I experienced that after trying it myself.

Here's an update on the fit:

I believe it's better now, but I want some opinions =)

Fit looks pretty good- maybe try cuffing higher to get a better line around the knees? '47s look good cuffed high, to me.Try it with the bottom of the cuff not quite touching the front top of your shoe, and see how it feels and looks that way.

[Maynard Friedman]

I know I allready posted a fitpic of my '47's. Got some comments/advice and decided to search some info regarding shrinkage. Paul T's post mentioning washing them at 40 degrees was very helpfull. At least I experienced that after trying it myself.

Here's an update on the fit:

I believe it's better now, but I want some opinions =)

I love those pictures where pets have sneaked in.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

i don´t know if you´ve allready seen it but take a look at oage 80 of the 501xx thread and watch out ill0ut´s masterpiece!!!!!!

i´m sorry but i haven´t seen such a got fading here expect of those nice 33s that were posted here earlier before...

[airfrogusmc]

Thanks for all the interesting answers!

Think of it like this, if theres 10% shrinkage the weight gain is about the same % wise.

[fardin]

an awesome post on the sanfordized blog, of some shop windows with levis back in the days. so check it our.

http://sanforized.blogspot.com/2010/04/levis-windows.html

[ThomasK]

Quick question: how does washing outside out affect the Structure of the denim?

[erk]

Quick question: how does washing outside out affect the Structure of the denim?

probably nothing.

the only reason I wash inside out is so I don't get those weird white lines.

[ThomasK]

yeh, this is what I experienced. i washed my 47 outside out accidently and there's definitely the risk of getting white lines where there are long whiskers/folds (especially from the knee down). however, the 47 is slow fading so it's just one line that is a little bit brighter than the denim. not very noticable. I think this "line" goes away as time goes by..or maybe I just hope so.

[dr.house]

Sugar Cane says:

"It is unnecessary to turn the garment inside out as sugar cane denims were developed as work wear and built tough. "

[ThomasK]

good quote....got the message ..

[Paul T]

yeh, this is what I experienced. i washed my 47 outside out accidently and there's definitely the risk of getting white lines where there are long whiskers/folds (especially from the knee down). however, the 47 is slow fading so it's just one line that is a little bit brighter than the denim. not very noticable. I think this "line" goes away as time goes by..or maybe I just hope so.

I got some of those odd white lines. I like them - you see them a lot on vintage jeans. I notice also when I washed the cotton duck bag it bunched up in the washer and faded along the lines. Again, I liked it.

[scout233]

The weird white lines I believe are called "marbling"... And from what i understand, what is most common cause of this is the spin cycle of your washing machine. It makes sense.. because i think most of us wash our jeans alone.. and when removing the jeans after a wash.. they have hard formed creases from the spin cycle.. I usually have to peel the jeans from the side of the washer. After I learned about the "marbling" cause, I now stop the wash before the spin cycle and let the jeans dry natural.

[Dr_Heech]

an awesome post on the sanfordized blog, of some shop windows with levis back in the days. so check it our.

http://sanforized.blogspot.com/2010/04/levis-windows.html

Many thanks Fardin. A real treasure found.

What a great shot that is of all the deadstock jackets with the huge pair of advertising sized 501's in the backdrop.

What year ? Late 30's/early 40's at a guess.

Outta rep at present, but will rep you when I can.

Awesome find

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