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About mlyngard

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  • biography:
    Denim-free since 2008
  • location:
    No, I'm not angry. I'm from Philly.
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  1. mlyngard

    Japan Blue Momotaro

    A pic of the patch and inner tag would prob help the identification. T
  2. mlyngard

    Japan Blue Momotaro

    Not sure if anyone else is excited about this, but Blue Owl Workshop has THREE new Momotaro offerings, once of which is their collab BOM012 using the Grand Indigo greencast dye. I've seen it and it's as sexy as it looks. The others are a 16oz slubby and a 12oz summer denim. After years of enjoying the 15.7oz and Copper Label denims, I'm excited to get my hands on these. If only my bank account would join in my enthusiasm...
  3. mlyngard

    How many pairs of jeans do you own?

    I love that so many of us denimheads use the IKEA kitchen rail systems to hang oour jeans. I still use the S-hooks to hang mine (from nails). The bigger size S-hook can hold 2-3 pairs in a pinch. But it make so much sense to have them all lined up and ready to pick from, plus, hanging them is the only way, imo. Nice work on those all, btw.
  4. mlyngard

    The Flat Head

    I love this forum for the insight and wisdom. Agreed, TFH have been next on my list for a long time, and like a good pair of shoes or a jacket, the price is really not an issue when I can expect many years of subtle wabisabi shazam. I have no idea what's involved with the cloth weaving, but TFH reminded me again why it's so good. Only a day into wearing them and the slub and density hidden in the denim are showing why it's worth the extra. I sized normal/up on these, which was the err on the side of caution rather than vanity decision I've come to accept. I feel your pain, erockisalive, My sizing miscalcs have cost me bundles. It's funny, but I remember now why I loved my old pair of BSP I had, and only my relationship with Momotaro and ONI has rivalled Flat Head with elegant simplicity where the denim has the one and only final word. The additional details only make them better. Beautiful Freak - ONI is still using generic hardware, Rivets are Universal, and donut buttons are laurel and star. Sewing is relentlessly good and tight.
  5. mlyngard

    The Flat Head

    Confirm that the D306 shrink TO tagged measurement. This was the same for my old BSP as well. The jeans arrived and a big thank you to Danny at Rivet and Hide for his fantastic customer service and denim wisdom. I know my shiz but it's always nice to have someone on the delivering end to confirm and advise. Just did some empirical measurements on the D306, since I was seeing varying chart measurements. They are a continuous taper. Tag 33w measured just above hemline flat after one hot soak were 7-1/8 at 36" inseam. They measure just under 7-1/2 at 30" inseam (flat, above hemline). It's not a carrot-taper since the knee is around 8-3/8", but it's a 1950's rockabilly cut with good trim below the knee and a 10" rise after wash. They held up perfectly under a warm machine wash, with minimal ironing to get rid of the fold-creases. Buttoned up easily including first button. Patch was smooth and only slightly puckered. Hemline gained some nice roping right away. Machine wash took away the last of the inseam shrink (definitely expect at least 2.5" leg/inseam shrink). Waist is already back to 34". Pockets are small and tight - I forgot this about FH. But I LOVE that they double-stitch the pocket openings, which relieves my usual issues of mending down the line...I hope. All in all, I am already bonded with them. Fit is impressive, Similar to Momotaro's Tight Taper and Oni's Relax Taper, Roomy in the hips, slim at knee and leg. Though I will still never understand why TFH comes to market at $340 - at least $50-100 USD more than other brands, especially when ONI delivers at $230 USD for the same attention to detail. No matter in the long run. The service from Rivet & Hide was exceptional.
  6. mlyngard

    The Flat Head

    Geeman, while I'm tempted to agree with you, I also remember clearly that Flat Head has TWO shrink phases. Initial soak and then a second shrink were standard protocol for FH back in the day and that probably hasn't changed with the Pioneer denim. Tagged waist always shrank to the measured tag, and then you got used to the stretched out fit and it shrank tight again. Only Studio D'Artisan and sometimes Samurai shrink below measured waist size. Trust in the denim men. Don't downsize and prepare for more shrink sometimes. That part only comes expensively from experience.
  7. mlyngard

    The Flat Head

    Hahah. I was in on that convo too. Thanks though!
  8. mlyngard

    The Flat Head

    Sorry for the no0b question, it's been a long time since I owned the FH 05BSP. Does anyone here have the new TFH D306 slim tapered cut? I own a bunch of continuous taper cuts from Momotaro and Oni which taper all the way down the inseam. But does FH continue their taper the full-length of the 38" inseam, or does it straighten out to a set leg-opening after, say 30-32"? I've asked Rivet and Hide to provide a hard in-store measurement at where I'll be hemming, but could use some input here.
  9. mlyngard

    How many pairs of jeans do you own?

    Oh man, I wish I had known about your mission sooner. A very worthy cause. Will send those Samurai you liked to you next week.
  10. View Advert ONI 622ZR relax taper jeans, 20oz. 31w, 29" ins. Oni 622ZR Relax Taper slim fit. 20oz loose-weave Secret Denim. 2018 edition. Purchased from Blue In Green in November. Now sold out in this size on their website. Priced to sell. Need to size up one more. Jeans bought raw and hot soaked once. Have been worn twice with NO visible wear. Jeans were hemmed to 30" inseam when raw. Inseam at 29" now. Waist is 34". Leg opening 6.9" Please PM me or email with any questions. Will ship international or domestic anywhere USPS goes. Advertiser mlyngard Date 01/20/2018 Price $145.00 Category denim  
  11. mlyngard

    How many pairs of jeans do you own?

    Are you looking for donations? ; )
  12. mlyngard

    How many pairs of jeans do you own?

    I've tried every Japanese brand around between 2006-2015. Often twice. Also, KMW, Jeans Shop, APC, LVC, Left Field, Roy, Tellason Uniqlo, and JCrew and Gap. Current rotation: Oni (3), Momotaro (3) Tanuki (4), Studio D'Artisan (1). About to pull trigger on more Flat Head. If I totaled everything I've spent on Denim, I would be worried about myself.
  13. mlyngard

    Studio D'artisan

    Interesting how low the arcuates were located on the back pocket 20 years ago.
  14. Spiraltoy, I'm not sure if this question was answered to-point, but being a less than 30" inseam wearer myself (I like 'em unstacked, high and cuffed), and preferential to tapered cuts, I've found that tapered cuts these days will increase in leg opening as they are hemmed. This is the case for me with Oni's relax taper, Tanuki, Momtaro tight taper and SDA's Denimio contest 002's. The continuous taper from knee-down usually isn't as drastic as it may seem, so you might have a variance of only .25"-.3" across when hemmed from 33" inseam to 29". So "drastic" isn't a word I'd use. Keep in mind too that after shrinkage, a 36" inseam may only end up being 33-34".
  15. Lance, yes he is, and replied to a few of my emails over the last six months. Though the delays in his responses give me the sense that he's less directly at the helm (or in the store) than he used to be, possibly due to the store's expansion. Dunno, but when he hasn't replied himself directly, I've received replies from his always-friendly staff.