Levi's Vintage Clothing

[dralfonzo]

need help from a levi's expert!

picked up a pair of what I think are 'vintage' Levi's (not LVC) from a vintage store the other day, but can't find any info on the lot no on the patch.

The patch reads; 66501-0144

There is no 'every garment guaranteed' and the jeans have all the features of the 1966 501. But i'm not too knowledgeable on LVC or the patches. Would anyone know how to tell for sure these are vintage? I can take pics if needed.

[Paul T]

Pretty sure they are LVC - only LVC carries the 'year' of the model on the tag code. But please post pics of the jeans and tag.

[dralfonzo]

Here's some pics. There is no number / code on the back of any buttons. Lemon stitching in places. What do you think?

[Paul T]

I didn't realise you meant the 66501 was on the leather-like tag... I thought you meant the interior one. But I think I do remember this error occurring before. What does the interior tag say?

I'm still pretty certain it's LVC because of the shallow arcuates.

This is a pair of 66 502 I used to own:

[dralfonzo]

Ok. Sorry forgot inner tag, here it is;

front

back

[Paul T]

Yeah, classic LVC. THe originals would not have mentioned Levis' Europe, and 643M is the code for one of the non-LEvi's factoreis they used after closing Valencia St and San Antonio. Nice jeans, though, hope u got them at a good price.

[dralfonzo]

Ok thanks for the help paul. Got them for £50 so I don't feel I too bad! Will have to keep on hunting for the real thing!

[Dr_Heech]

Uh, I've missed something 4sure. What's the difference on the 2010 denim compared to 2008/2009 cone denim? Thanks.

Dr.House

My 2010 1944's are made with different denim than previous 1944's I've owned, and IMHO are a better quality. Talking to the manager at Cinch at length, He told me that certain models have been 'revamped', in that the tabs are single sided with no 'R' and the denim (still from cone) is 'new' (plus some other details).

As the 2010 1947 is another revamp (along with the 1955 and one or two others) and I've heard it has a tab with no 'R', I assume the attention to detail, including this beautifull 'new' denim would be used.

My assumption only, unless you hear any different from Mr. T, or any other more knowledgable Lvc denim-heads here.

.

[airfrogusmc]

Dr.House

My 2010 1944's are made with different denim than previous 1944's I've owned, and IMHO are a better quality. Talking to the manager at Cinch at length, He told me that certain models have been 'revamped', in that the tabs are single sided with no 'R' and the denim (still from cone) is 'new' (plus some other details).

As the 2010 1947 is another revamp (along with the 1955 and one or two others) and I've heard it has a tab with no 'R', I assume the attention to detail, including this beautifull 'new' denim would be used.

My assumption only, unless you hear any different from Mr. T, or any other more knowledgable Lvc denim-heads here.

.

Yes just got my 2010 1947s today and the red tab does not have the circle R and the denim is different than the denim on the two earlier 1947s I've owned.

A tag saying its cone denim and made in the USA also came wit hthe jeans. I ordered these from Cultizm Friday (Germany) and I have them in the US (Chicago) on Monday. AMAZING. I can't even get stuff delivered from across town that fast.

[dr.house]

Thanks for the infos, couldn't rep you guys atm. I've seen differences before on 2 pairs of the 44's- different patches, different pocket fabric. My pair's got no circled "R" but herringbone pocket fabric and a fat leather patch, bought last year from a new stock. Dejan send me 2 pairs for the contest to get the right size: one with the circled "R", one without (I took the last one).

[Dr_Heech]

Thanks for the infos, couldn't rep you guys atm. I've seen differences before on 2 pairs of the 44's- different patches, different pocket fabric. My pair's got no circled "R" but herringbone pocket fabric and a fat leather patch, bought last year from a new stock. Dejan send me 2 pairs for the contest to get the right size: one with the circled "R", one without (I took the last one).

Your pair of 44's, does it have the new type little white tag on the waistband (inside, centre) with 'made in usa' + three other language versions ?

.

[roy6]

The LVC Japan 1874 hunting jacket:

I'd really like to see that new closed-front duck jumper from this year, did anyone pull the trigger? And the duck jacket, which I hear you have, doc Heech...

[Paul T]

I've tried on the closed front jumper. It looks cool, kinda smock-ish. I do have temporary budget problems unfortunately.

Please post that first wear pic on here too, ROy, the jacket looks far easier to wear than you'd think, altho it could of course be your impossible cool that carries it off?

I'll wash the cotton duck bag tonite.

[airfrogusmc]

I had thought that LVC US would be making that jacket. It would make a killer photography jacket. The big pockets for lenses and the smaller ones for extra cards and batteries. If they ever do and make one big enough I'll be buying one.

[roy6]

ROy, the jacket looks far easier to wear than you'd think, altho it could of course be your impossible cool that carries it off?

I'll wash the cotton duck bag tonite.

Paul, you had a typo, "implausible" is spelled like this. When you tried the jumper on, did you remind yourself of your favorite Oki Ni model? Seriously though, was it too baggy, like in that you'd feel uncomfortable wearing it?

AFUSMC, there are actually three more large pockets with leather straps sewn into the inside back of the jacket. And you might get your wish come fall.

[fardin]

now doc, since you were not around on the wayw thread, its your turn to take out the cotton duck jacket and take a fit pic. we need to compare!! imho

[airfrogusmc]

Paul, you had a typo, "implausible" is spelled like this. When you tried the jumper on, did you remind yourself of your favorite Oki Ni model? Seriously though, was it too baggy, like in that you'd feel uncomfortable wearing it?

AFUSMC, there are actually three more large pockets with leather straps sewn into the inside back of the jacket. And you might get your wish come fall.

I hope. I've already e-mailed Dejan and told him if he gets some to put the biggest one he could get aside for me.

[runormal]

...Here are some amazing distressed jeans on the way that have been done at Denim Tech but I fear some of them will be expensive. I was hearing amazing stories of what they got up to on the recent reissues like Barnyard.

I am guessing expensive could/will mean like the 1933 Tow Roll and the 1886 Barnstorm jeans i.e. $500ish price range.

Somewhat related; BlackBird filled in their product info for the 1886 Barnstorm jeans here and when they write that the jeans are an "exact replica" I am assuming they mean down to the square stitching patterns on the legs and cut out pieces of cloth? The reason I ask is after seeing this particular piece in person some of the stitching patterns looked "modern" for a lack of a better word... I dunno just a random thought I was having while driving home from work today.

(roy6 what jeans are those^^^? EDIT: checked the WAYWT thread - 501s are looking good!)

[mlyngard]

yo i got a pair of lvc 1967 505's and there's like heaps fo tiny tiny fibers coming out from all over the jeans.. does anyone know what this is and how to get rid of it??

I think I'll take a fit pic and of those tiny fibers if you guys want that as well because it looks a bit odd I tihnk..

This is often described as 'hairy'. Short-staple fiber denim (as Paul T already mentioned). Most American production textile cotton comes from less-expensive crop (not Sea-Isle) and is shorter-staple (whereas arid-area Zimbabwe and many Egyptian varieties have longer fibers).

The 'hairiness' of the denim will dissapear very quickly with wear and abrasion and will become smooth. It's just the fabric shedding loose cotton fiber. Even longer-staple denim has a preliminary shedding period. All jeans will show 'hairiness' in the first few weeks if you look closely.

I don't know much about where Cone sources their cotton, (if it's Southern or Texan), but it's good stuff and not cheap or overly processed. I've never seen any Cone denim look anything but beautiful with wear.

hey guys i was wondering....

well i am new to lvcs and recently picked up a pair of factory one-rinse raw cone mills 47's. the color and construction are phenomenal but i have one beef... the denim is not nearly rigid enough to produce any kind of creases whatsoever

Short answer is that any effort to make the jeans stiffer (like starch) is, essentially, cheating. Wear them as intended and let them develop fades as the cut and denim dictate. It's counterproductive and even bad for the denim to use starch for many reasons, and looser, softer denim won't take well to added starch anyway.

If you want fast faders, buy Skull or Flat Head. LVC and some of the most faithful Japanese repros will be slower faders not just because of looser cuts but also the dyeing process and denim characteristics.

[jwsach]

thanks for the feedback guys....

i think ill just wear em out for a couple years and see if that does the trick

great jeans just super soft its kinda weird, not just department store jean soft but softer... hmmmm

[Dr_Heech]

now doc, since you were not around on the wayw thread, its your turn to take out the cotton duck jacket and take a fit pic. we need to compare!! imho

Fardin

Ha Ha

I think this is something BLM asked me when I first posted pix of them last year. Will try and sort something out for you. Unfortunately my photographer is unavailable at present.

The only trouble with the duck fit-pics is that it is Sooo stiff due to storage and lack of air, that it doesnt really 'fit' (plus it is pre-STF, so is oversize)

@Roy6

Here are some pics of the jacket (I also have pics of the waistcoat and pants). These were made in SF at the old factory around 2001.

And the little book that comes with it

.

[dr.house]

Your pair of 44's, does it have the new type little white tag on the waistband (inside, centre) with 'made in usa' + three other language versions ?

.

No Sir. Only the inner tag that says Made in USA. But it's one of my favourites, a really nice jean even if I'm sure they're hard to break in.

[Paul T]

I don't know much about where Cone sources their cotton, (if it's Southern or Texan), but it's good stuff and not cheap or overly processed. I've never seen any Cone denim look anything but beautiful with wear..

COne traditionally used Carolinas cotton - originally it was Sea Islands, which was wiped out by the Boll Weevil, the later types were medium staple, much like Zimbabwe, which I don't think is particularly long . THey still use a lot of Texas and California too I believe. The 505 uses Sanforized denim from Kaihara in Japan; it's more unusual for Sanforized jeans to have a hairy finish, but as mylngard says it's nothing to worry about. I was only joking about blowtorching them.

THe notion that starching jeans is somehow 'cheating' probably comes from the huge overuse of starch on SuFU a few years ago, when everybody was doing it in the hope it was a panacea for a quick fade. But if you want to restore crispness to your jeans it's a valid technique which has been used for hundreds of years - cowboys have been doing it to their jeans since the 30s, partly because it acts as a kind of dirt screen.

When you tried the jumper on, did you remind yourself of your favorite Oki Ni model? Seriously though, was it too baggy, like in that you'd feel uncomfortable wearing it?

Like our favourite model? If only.

I think i\'d go for a small size, on which the arms would be pretty short. For summer it would be pretty cool with a pair of one pocket or my old 1901s. The main thing is it's cut entirely square... so I think you either buy it small and accept the short arms or get it taken in.

[SLAB]

wow, roy6, really love that jacket; how much did it cost you?

btw does anyone have any alternatives for the LVC tees? Im looking for a tee with the same fit (short sleeves and slim fit) and are more affordable

[airfrogusmc]

Your pair of 44's, does it have the new type little white tag on the waistband (inside, centre) with 'made in usa' + three other language versions ?

.

Dr Heech is this the tag you were referring to?

[airfrogusmc]

wow, roy6, really love that jacket; how much did it cost you?

btw does anyone have any alternatives for the LVC tees? Im looking for a tee with the same fit (short sleeves and slim fit) and are more affordable

Yes I would buy one if they made one big enough. A really big X-Large. I hope LVC US makes one soon.

[Dr_Heech]

Airfrog

Yeah that's the tag. They your new 47's? If so, can you post some more pix (+details)?

@ Dr. house

So your 44's have no 'R' on the red tab, but have the lilac coloured arcs (going by the pic)?

.

[airfrogusmc]

Airfrog

Yeah that's the tag. They your new 47's? If so, can you post some more pix (+details)?

@ Dr. house

So your 44's have no 'R' on the red tab, but have the lilac coloured arcs (going by the pic)?

.

Yeah I did a cold soak yesterday. (Thought I'd give these a try with a soak first since I usually just wear). The denim is real nice. Its the biggest and most noticeable change. They are not as trim or undersized as the older models but still trimmer than the 55s and the 44s. Also the construction is top notch but they are MUCH smaller in the waist and all over than the 1917s, 1915s and the 1880s. I'll post some photos showing how much smaller in the waist the old 1947s are as compared to the new ones. Its a bit more than a full inch.

[Dr_Heech]

Yeah I did a cold soak yesterday. (Thought I'd give these a try with a soak first since I usually just wear). The denim is real nice. Its the biggest and most noticeable change. They are not as trim or undersized as the older models but still trimmer than the 55s and the 44s. Also the construction is top notch but they are MUCH smaller in the waist and all over than the 1917s, 1915s and the 1880s. I'll post some photos showing how much smaller in the waist the old 1947s are as compared to the new ones. Its a bit more than a full inch.

Yeah, thanks mate.

My new 44's are alot trimmer than I remember them to be. I did a warmish soak for 20 minutes. The denim didn't bleed that much, but the fit is great. Gonna wear 'em for as long as I can stand to....

.

[roy6]

@Roy6

Here are some pics of the jacket (I also have pics of the waistcoat and pants). These were made in SF at the old factory around 2001.

.

Thanks Heech, that looks sharp. I have to say I prefer the color on your repro to the 1874 model. Interesting that there is only one button high on the chest.

The description is also interesting, maybe because I've never hunted: I was wondering what the large rear pockets on the back of the 1874 model were for, and my bf opined that they were for holding prey. I'm afraid I laughed at him. "What, for stuffing bloody little carcasses into and walking around with the bodies banging into your back and bleeding through your coat? Yeah, right."

Oops. City folk.

I didn't know there was a waistcoat- let's see?

SLAB- the Japanese Ebay seller starts his jackets at $330US, you can also still get size 38 jackets from Rakuten for around $430.