Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

here is an odd jean:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Levis-Waist-Overalls-Pre-501-Jeans-circa-1922_W0QQitemZ180331810593QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVintage_Men_s_Clothing?hash=item180331810593&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A4%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

look more like lees, but lee never used the diamond arcuates, they stopped imitating levi´s in the late 30s, when levi´s actually hadn´t invented the diamond shape.... am i right!? strange!!!

[Paul T]

I've seen a few later versions of these, these are simply Cone-branded jeans that have nothing to do with Levi's. Judging by the fly on the right, they were modified to make them womens jeans (a large woman, I guess) - I would have to guess they're late 30s, even though Levi's had trademarked the arcuate by then.

[LFC4ever]

I think with 555 it´s more about the thing that they are produced in that old factory, where eveything started... but also if you don´t mind, the lack of accuracy these are great quality jeans, you know people spent much more moeny for japanese repros which are more unaccurate. and if you say the 37s 201xx are only typo, those are great 501s

Totally agree - I own a number of pairs of all three original 555 models together with the jckets and shirts and there is a rarity value about them now although I did buy them under the clear impression they were totally accurate reproductions.

Hope this is appropriate for this thread but it does concern a pair of genuine deadstock Levi 501 small e I bought about 10 years ago from a reputable shop in Soho NY that specialised in vintage denim/clothing, and I'm wondering if anyone can help me date them and define which model. Inside lable reads:

SF 207 W

No Soak - No hand wash -

Hot wash w/detergent -

Color transfer when new -

Wash alone before

wearing -

Shrinks about 10%.

W 36 L 34

898 28

501

11 1 524 M

086 304 4

Many thanks for your help

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

what makes me think that those are later than 30s made are the diamonds,

i thought levi´s invented them in the late 40s!?

[Leonard Leroy]

I don't think there's a myth, apart from when eBay sellers use the legend to try and hike up the price. Airfrog talked about 555 a lot at the start of this thread - mainly because Taylor TOgs had messed up, including putting the wrong pocket on the 201. There's a little residual excitement here, partly cause pomata found a batch which he sold at around half the price of a current pair. I'm looking forward to seeing Leonard wearing his in, as long as he can still squeeze into them.

Yup, myth and romance is a big part of fashion - don't see anything new or profoundly wrong about that, apart from when you're paying a lot more to get it.

They actually fit perfect, as well as they always did. It's just the waist shrunk up a bit with the second soak, but its already stretched out.

I really, really love these jeans. I haven't even considered switching them to another pair. They were going to be a transition pair to be honest, but well, I'm wearing them pretty much every moment I'm awake now.

[doctorgnar]

Gah, I hate to clog up this thread with sizing questions - but I'm trying to sort out the 1954 501z.

Oi Polloi lists the measurements on their site for size 32" / 32" as:

Waist - 33.0"

Length - 33.0"

Rise - 11.0"

Thigh - 9.5"

Knee - 8.3"

Hem - 7.3"

And for the same pair Cultizm gave me:

waist: 32 inch

thigh: 12 inch

leg opening: 7.25 inch

inseam: 34 inch

I'm mostly concerned about the waist and the rise. Are these supposed to have a higher rise than the 1967 505? OP lists them both as 'standard', but the '54 as about 1/2" or so higher.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

[Rob]

I have bought both 1966 and 1983 in the last couple of weeks. Both measured 1" more than tag size pre shrinkage.

Oi Polloi can be slightly out with their measurements but I think they are probably spot on here.

[doctorgnar]

^Thanks.

Here's another LVC brainbuster - Oi Polloi has this disclaimer for the 54 501z:

The only drawback is this jean is DRY CLEAN ONLY (It is shrink to fit denim, but the zip-fly will buckle when the fabric shrinks).

PLEASE NOTE: DRY CLEAN ONLY although ticketed as shrink to fit- BUY YOUR NORMAL SIZE.

Wondering if anyone can speak to this - I've never had a pair of raw zip fly denim, wondering if they'll be fine with the usual cold/warm soak and hang dry.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

this is why you don´t get zippers with shrink to fit denim, oi polloi is right about that, allthough I don´t believe that the effect would be that massive,

if you re not sure just wash em cold or at 30degrees celsius....

[Paul T]

You should be ok. I've had around 4 pairs of Euro Lees, non-sanforized,.. the zipper on these still works - altho on one pair the fly seemed to open by itself..

[doctorgnar]

this is why you don´t get zippers with shrink to fit denim, oi polloi is right about that, allthough I don´t believe that the effect would be that massive,

if you re not sure just wash em cold or at 30degrees celsius....

Yeah, that's what I figure. Thanks.

You should be ok. I've had around 4 pairs of Euro Lees, non-sanforized,.. the zipper on these still works - altho on one pair the fly seemed to open by itself..

Thanks, Paul. Did the shape/fit of the jeans change drastically after washing/soaking because of the zipper?

[Tekrah70]

Just wearing my 1901's after almost drying them after a 60degree machine wash for the first time - I guess they've been worn for about 4 months and were getting a little savoury for my liking, I could detect a bodylike scent from them and I'm afraid I'm not living in a pair of jeans that skank so bunged 'em in the machine.

They have shrunk a bit and shed a little of their indigo or maybe alot !

They feel better now though in as much as the denim has lost that smooth sheen and has developed a more pleasing texture.

Nothing great to speak of in the fade department yet, there are visible subtle honeycombs but I prefer the vintage look over super contrast fades and being a W40 and not sufu tight they are not going to be to everyones taste but I post up images after they have been worn in somewhat more and washed out and beaten up a bit.

- One thing though I annoyed myself by stretching out the waistband by hand when putting them on the line to dry and snapped the metal cinch - a real pisser as the reason I bought them was my liking of cinchbacks.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement or repair in the UK ?

[Paul T]

Yeah, that's what I figure. Thanks.

Thanks, Paul. Did the shape/fit of the jeans change drastically after washing/soaking because of the zipper?

No, not really.

[electrum]

Around 1917 both Amoskeag and [/i[Cone produced denim for the 501. ONly Kurabo have the expertise in producing natural indigo denim AFAIK - but of course that comes in at a lot more $$$. I am happy with synthetic indigo for these early versions, which should still give as 'original' a look, but would like to see a more greencast look as on the originals.

WOuld love to see a link for the Corn Meal versions. I agree some of those LVC natural indgo are ludicrous prices, but I suspect they are still loss-leaders when you consider the work that's gone into them.

THe 1917 do look very exciting but I haven't seen the production version in the flesh yet... any day.

Ididn't know both Amoskeag and Cone supplied denim for the original 1917 - interesting. I do know the lvc Japan version was Cone synthetic indigo denim. That's why I was confused about why the US version is Kurabo. In response to my post, many mentioned natural indigo dye, but I missed whether the '09 version will have natural indigo. Since Kurabo is known for natural indigo, can we expect the '09 1917 to be natural?

I could not find any links for the lvc Japan 1917 'Cornmeals' (Cone Mills) jean - my source for Japan lvc tells me they sold out mid summer lst yr. There are several Japanese blogs out there that talk about the 1917 'cornmeals' if you phish around. However, I did find this vendor selling lvc 1917 'limited edtion', but they do not mention 'cornmeals (cone mills) denim in the ad ( I can't get direct link to product, you will have to key 1917 in search from this link page):

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.e-levi.jp/shop/mens/ProductsDetail.do/shop_products_id/1824&ei=XNalSfXwEYjBnQfbr82aBQ&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=5&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dlevi%2527s%2Bjapan%2B1917%2Bjeans%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1G1GGLQ_ENUS317%26sa%3DG

[Shorty Long]

Per Dejan at cultizm the '09 Euro 1917s are made with synthetic idigo denim. The price reflects that.

Ididn't know both Amoskeag and Cone supplied denim for the original 1917 - interesting. I do know the lvc Japan version was Cone synthetic indigo denim. That's why I was confused about why the US version is Kurabo. In response to my post, many mentioned natural indigo dye, but I missed whether the '09 version will have natural indigo. Since Kurabo is known for natural indigo, can we expect the '09 1917 to be natural?

I could not find any links for the lvc Japan 1917 'Cornmeals' (Cone Mills) jean - my source for Japan lvc tells me they sold out mid summer lst yr. There are several Japanese blogs out there that talk about the 1917 'cornmeals' if you phish around. However, I did find this vendor selling lvc 1917 'limited edtion', but they do not mention 'cornmeals (cone mills) denim in the ad ( I can't get direct link to product, you will have to key 1917 in search from this link page):

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.e-levi.jp/shop/mens/ProductsDetail.do/shop_products_id/1824&ei=XNalSfXwEYjBnQfbr82aBQ&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=5&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dlevi%2527s%2Bjapan%2B1917%2Bjeans%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1G1GGLQ_ENUS317%26sa%3DG

[almostnice]

Just had a look at both the japanese and cultizms 1917,whats the difference to the 1901 released last spring?from the pictures I can see that they come with a two horsepatch,but what else?

[Paul T]

Just had a look at both the japanese and cultizms 1917,whats the difference to the 1901 released last spring?from the pictures I can see that they come with a two horsepatch,but what else?

Very little. It should be the same fabric, and on the 1917 version the arcuates are a bit more freehand, which is a cool detail. I think they issued the 1917 to make a change, and also because they have a nice original in the archives from that year, called 'Homer' (there was a distressed repro of it, with loads of repairs, a couple of years ago).

I have only seen the sample for the 17, and that had a slightly different pocket shape that looked funky, but I thought it was elongated compared to the real thing. They look nice - but Electrum, if you didn't like the 1901, I don't think you'll find these massively different.

I personally am a fan of the 1901, the fabric wears in beautifully, very different from the later jeans, the 17 should be the same. It's definitely synthetic indigo.

Edit: Electrum, the 1901 and 1917 are both Kurabo, in Europe at least. The 1922 is Cone - the model marks the point at which Cone started supplying the fabric exclusively.

[electrum]

Since the '01 and '17 are essentially the same, I bet that's why they're going with the Kurabo denim on the '17 rather than Cone. That way they can add a little variation and provide choices for two interesting models -- I think that's a good thing. Since I personally like the Cone, I will likely end up geting the '01. If this Kurabo denim gets good reviews from some of you that know quality denim, I might get a pair of those too. As for the '47, does anyone know if Levi's ramped up the weight and loosened the thighs a bit on this yrs production model? I love those jeans, but never could get the right fit on past production models -- pissed me off.

[electrum]

...They look nice - but Electrum, if you didn't like the 1901, I don't think you'll find these massively different.

The only thing I didn't like about the '01 was how Levi's misrepresented the weight as 14oz. on their website and through their customer service department. I've finally come to terms with the fact that Levi's marketing and customer service is a total cluster fuck -- bar none. I mean hell, there's no reason to let piss poor corp. policy and procedures prevent me from enjoying some of their cool products.

[doctorgnar]

Question about buying LVC from Cultizm - hopefully my last interjection here - anyone know if I'll get whacked with customs fees for shipping to the states?

[Happy Hooligan]

Question about buying LVC from Cultizm - hopefully my last interjection here - anyone know if I'll get whacked with customs fees for shipping to the states?

I've ordered many times and never had a customs fee...

[Shorty Long]

Nope, and you'll probably be AMAZED with how quickly you receive your order.

BTW...I ordered the 1902 Striped Sunset shirt from cultizm and it's waiting at my house.

I'll post pictures later if anyone's interested.

Question about buying LVC from Cultizm - hopefully my last interjection here - anyone know if I'll get whacked with customs fees for shipping to the states?

[Happy Hooligan]

Nope, and you'll probably be AMAZED with how quickly you receive your order.

BTW...I ordered the 1902 Striped Sunset shirt from cultizm and it's waiting at my house.

I'll post pictures later if anyone's interested.

i'd like to see some pics and measurements too.

I ordered a new pair of 37's a month ago... ordered them in the evening, waited a day and the next morning they were at my door.

day and half and they're there!

[Shorty Long]

I haven't had time to take pictures, but the sizing is HUGE...I medium is 43"+ at the chest, 19" shoulders and an ungodly length...I'm hoping to exchange for a SMALL.

The details are great, however, and the box alone is worth the price of admission.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Like I said before, this season is going to be highly valuable in the second hand market, even more so than 555s I think.

Grrrreat stuff! Too bad I cant afford to but any of it!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

dejan tries to get me some 1947 501xx 555s. are they worth any additional money to spent on? and are there any differences in sizing, denim etc. i have to know about?

[Paul T]

dejan tries to get me some 1947 501xx 555s. are they worth any additional money to spent on? and are there any differences in sizing, denim etc. i have to know about?

Haha, well there has been some debate about this. I wouldn't personally pay more than 10% over the standard price, but I wouldn't blame Dehan for trying to get more.

All the 555 47 are slim, size up by two inches in the waist and 2 or 3 inches in the leg and you should be good to go.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

i'm going to pay dejan a visit and then try them on...i believe it's the safest way to find the right size. or at least i hope so...

+rep for your help!

[Paul T]

If you're trying them on in person, you will be fine if you have an inch of room in the waist. On those early 47 you need to size up by two inches from the TAG size (the real size is proably an inch smaller).

Hope that makes sense. I think I have confused myself now and need to crack open a beer.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I hope Dejan can give me some advise in sizing,too. I'm normally a 32 in Levi's pre-washes, so I think a 34 should be fine. And I planned to soak them while wearing. But it will take several weeks till the 555s arrive.