Acronym.

[mariahscarry]

54 minutes ago, DROVES said:

glad you enjoyed Darklands! 

Thanks for the recommendation. Cheers!

[roofus]

4 hours ago, mariahscarry said:

Just visited Darklands and, wow. Such an incredible store, anyone visiting Berlin must visit. They do not allow photography and even if they did, photos could not possibly serve justice to its greatness. Almost felt like I was in a Burial music video haha.

Was able to try on J70 in black/medium. Usually i’m a large in acronym but the jacket still fit, but snug. Even in a large I doubt I would manage to fit a hoodie underneath. Fabric is superb face to face, a little bit itchy but the owner mentioned he purchased the size large and it’s softened up after only wearing it a few times. 

I really enjoyed the wrist cuff closure design, and the button front closure has a layer underneath to keep cold air out. The jacket definitely exceeded my expectations. I will purchase it later on when it goes on sale. 

I would love to visit Darklands based on your experience  . . .the website is very impressive too, for us virtual travellers.

[roofus]

4 hours ago, mariahscarry said:

Just visited Darklands and, wow. Such an incredible store, anyone visiting Berlin must visit. They do not allow photography and even if they did, photos could not possibly serve justice to its greatness. Almost felt like I was in a Burial music video haha.

Was able to try on J70 in black/medium. Usually i’m a large in acronym but the jacket still fit, but snug. Even in a large I doubt I would manage to fit a hoodie underneath. Fabric is superb face to face, a little bit itchy but the owner mentioned he purchased the size large and it’s softened up after only wearing it a few times. 

I really enjoyed the wrist cuff closure design, and the button front closure has a layer underneath to keep cold air out. The jacket definitely exceeded my expectations. I will purchase it later on when it goes on sale. 

Well it seems like the best strategy to wear it and break it in!

[mariahscarry]

I took this photo before he told me “No Photos” so…. I guess I can’t feel bad and want to share. 

Also forgot to mention, J117 is insane. Actually just purchased it online as we speak. The fabric is SO SOFT, like softer than a bunny rabbit. The zipper is the perfect weight, feels very luxurious. The cuffs were a very light nylon if I had to guess? Overall I was utterly impressed after throwing it on. He agreed it’s the most slept on piece from this season until you finally put it on. Def worth the price tag if you ask me. 

[Kamikaze]

30 minutes ago, mariahscarry said:

I took this photo before he told me “No Photos” so…. I guess I can’t feel bad and want to share. 

Also forgot to mention, J117 is insane. Actually just purchased it online as we speak. The fabric is SO SOFT, like softer than a bunny rabbit. The zipper is the perfect weight, feels very luxurious. The cuffs were a very light nylon if I had to guess? Overall I was utterly impressed after throwing it on. He agreed it’s the most slept on piece from this season until you finally put it on. Def worth the price tag if you ask me. 

 

Is the 117 true to size? 

[mariahscarry]

Yes.

[JoseRizal]

Lol @ spikes acronym 

[XLARGE]

18 hours ago, Kamikaze said:

Is the 117 true to size? 

In my personal humble opinion it’s not. 
I think it fits kinda oversized or big.
At least if you look at it as a hoodie. 
If you look at it like a jacket maybe not. 
I wear everything XL and a heavy hoodie fit’s easily and it’s still roomy. 
I like the fit though, but it’s big. 

Edited November 25, 2023 by XLARGE

[roofus]

On 11/25/2023 at 2:25 PM, XLARGE said:

In my personal humble opinion it’s not. 
I think it fits kinda oversized or big.
At least if you look at it as a hoodie. 
If you look at it like a jacket maybe not. 
I wear everything XL and a heavy hoodie fit’s easily and it’s still roomy. 
I like the fit though, but it’s big. 

Agreed! ACR says it fits wide and that's true. I like loose fitting garments but it fits really big in the belly area. I little tighter fit there and in the cuffs would be welcome. However, it is very soft and comfortable and very warm and I like the built-in sling technology! . . .and if you happen to be pregnant . . .or if you like beer; you're good to go!

[DROVES]

out of curiosity does anyone know the oe vender for the side release strap buckles w/o the tongue tang on the 3a-1s

[Team_Feisar]

On 11/25/2023 at 1:39 AM, Kamikaze said:

Is the 117 true to size? 

IMO it's not, I sized down and it's still baggy and long.

Just for fun, here's the J117 in L under a J36 in XL (my usual size)

 

Edited November 26, 2023 by Flousn90

[beepy]

Finally realized what the j70 reminded me of

[mariahscarry]

When I buy ACR, I always buy the same size. I remember previously the discussion on p46 when most people were sizing down but then missing the intended ‘fit’ of the design. So when I’m asked if something is TTS, I don’t consider this question to mean “Does it fit skin tight?” more so as if it fits the way it was intended. Sure, it’s a bit oversized I would agree but at the same time, It’s J117… not S117, so that being said. No, it does not fit me skin tight in my usual size. However, it does fit me the way it was intended to and that was def my personal preference when comparing to a size down at Darklands. 

 

This TTS argument can be made for many of these designs in the past two seasons. If when purchasing acr ur looking for the same fit across the board of jackets/pants, ur really missing out on some of the key intended design philosophies behind the garments themselves. Would p30al fit me in a small? Sure….but when i take my regular size in a Large, that’s when I understand why the pants were designed the way they were intended to fit. 

Edited November 27, 2023 by mariahscarry

[AvantSol]

I used to be a tts purist but some shit fits comically massive. I absolutely needed to size down on the p43-GT. And this is after trying two different sizes in person.

[mariahscarry]

24 minutes ago, AvantSol said:

I used to be a tts purist but some shit fits comically massive. I absolutely needed to size down on the p43-GT. And this is after trying two different sizes in person.

See, and I’ve been wearing my p43 for most of my trip in Berlin in my tts. It’s all subjective but, yeh. 

[NinjaGuyInToronto]

Thoughts on the J117 -

Fit
TTS IMO. I sized down, but wish I had gone with my normal size. The jacket is fucking huge, but the hem is what sets the fit. It's tight on the bottom and roomy up top. This is a maternity wear item. I bought this hoping for something along the lines of a cozy S21 with a zipper, and a sling design that works well with a jacket on top. This turned out to be the opposite (I know the 'J' designation should have been a tip-off). It is an overshirt to say the least. I wear my size S over an M J50 and there's still plenty of room. In fact it actually fits better the more bulky you make the layers underneath.

Design
The weird split hem thing really emphasizes the maternity vibes. As a dude, I'm not anticipating the pregnancy that would really make this feature pop for me. I like the idea of a giant warm sweater, but IMO the gaudy reverse coil WR zippers really throw off the look. This jacket is clearly not intended for rainy days, why put that ugly shiny crap on what could have been something much more understated? Given that it is truly an outer layer, I would have preferred a traditional sling, and maybe a hidden pocket where the current one resides. I think it would fit the vibe of the jacket much better. This design just seems really ham-fisted and I'm not really sure what the thought process was. There was a lot of potential for a cool sweater (or weird jacket thing) and instead we get this overly bulky mess.

Functionality
While the material is warm and soft, ultimately it has absolutely no wind resistance. It's pretty cold and windy here, and I almost always layer some WS underneath. Unfortunately that means I don't really get that next to skin enjoyment of the fabric. Maybe it's the fact that I sized down, but the jacket seems to always ride up on me because the hem is so tight. This is further exacerbated by the bulky zipper(s) on the EX model that work to constantly bulge out the belly. This jacket seems to be designed for the sole purpose of making the wearer look fat. Undoing the bottom zipper a bit helps, but when combined with the split hem only serves to emphasize how fat you look - "you can't even do up your zipper!" The hem and double zip also make zipping up the jacket very annoying because it aligns on a weird angle rather than the straight line of a normal zipper. I am also not a fan of the alternative sling design. Like it slings, but it doesn't hold it as tight to your body as the old design. It's also more of a pain to deploy. Finally, the hood is just too big. It flops down over the eyes and needs constant adjustment. There's no cinch provided to pull in the excess material.

Overall, it's wearable, but just disappointing given the potential of what it could have been. I will wear it occasionally, but I think in most cases I will stick to the more functional pieces of my wardrobe which require less effort, and offer better features. It'll spend most of its time parked in the odd duck section of the closet next to the CP4.

Pictured below layered over a tee, hoodie, and J50-WS to bulk it out. The shemagh helps hide some of the ugly WR zipper.

 

[roofus]

I like the "Maternity Wear" comment!

[Yamato2800]

On 11/27/2023 at 12:21 PM, NinjaGuyInToronto said:

Thoughts on the J117 -

Fit
TTS IMO. I sized down, but wish I had gone with my normal size. The jacket is fucking huge, but the hem is what sets the fit. It's tight on the bottom and roomy up top. This is a maternity wear item. I bought this hoping for something along the lines of a cozy S21 with a zipper, and a sling design that works well with a jacket on top. This turned out to be the opposite (I know the 'J' designation should have been a tip-off). It is an overshirt to say the least. I wear my size S over an M J50 and there's still plenty of room. In fact it actually fits better the more bulky you make the layers underneath.

Design
The weird split hem thing really emphasizes the maternity vibes. As a dude, I'm not anticipating the pregnancy that would really make this feature pop for me. I like the idea of a giant warm sweater, but IMO the gaudy reverse coil WR zippers really throw off the look. This jacket is clearly not intended for rainy days, why put that ugly shiny crap on what could have been something much more understated? Given that it is truly an outer layer, I would have preferred a traditional sling, and maybe a hidden pocket where the current one resides. I think it would fit the vibe of the jacket much better. This design just seems really ham-fisted and I'm not really sure what the thought process was. There was a lot of potential for a cool sweater (or weird jacket thing) and instead we get this overly bulky mess.

Functionality
While the material is warm and soft, ultimately it has absolutely no wind resistance. It's pretty cold and windy here, and I almost always layer some WS underneath. Unfortunately that means I don't really get that next to skin enjoyment of the fabric. Maybe it's the fact that I sized down, but the jacket seems to always ride up on me because the hem is so tight. This is further exacerbated by the bulky zipper(s) on the EX model that work to constantly bulge out the belly. This jacket seems to be designed for the sole purpose of making the wearer look fat. Undoing the bottom zipper a bit helps, but when combined with the split hem only serves to emphasize how fat you look - "you can't even do up your zipper!" The hem and double zip also make zipping up the jacket very annoying because it aligns on a weird angle rather than the straight line of a normal zipper. I am also not a fan of the alternative sling design. Like it slings, but it doesn't hold it as tight to your body as the old design. It's also more of a pain to deploy. Finally, the hood is just too big. It flops down over the eyes and needs constant adjustment. There's no cinch provided to pull in the excess material.

Overall, it's wearable, but just disappointing given the potential of what it could have been. I will wear it occasionally, but I think in most cases I will stick to the more functional pieces of my wardrobe which require less effort, and offer better features. It'll spend most of its time parked in the odd duck section of the closet next to the CP4.

Pictured below layered over a tee, hoodie, and J50-WS to bulk it out. The shemagh helps hide some of the ugly WR zipper.

 

I have the same issues with the tight bottom Hem on my J58. I feel like I need to unzip from the bottom a bit or curl up the bottom like ACR has done in the newer product photos

[biginjapan]

On 11/28/2023 at 6:08 PM, Yamato2800 said:

I have the same issues with the tight bottom Hem on my J58. I feel like I need to unzip from the bottom a bit or curl up the bottom like ACR has done in the newer product photos

A good tailor can take out or loosen the elastic. I had it taken out

[eidolarr]

Did the original j68 have aux zip? The chest pocket is canted compared to the one on the j58 — how well does it work with the access zipper on the j1? Seems like it might be better but it depends on the shape of the pocket.

edit no aux zip on the original, which his iteration came in raf which imo is way better for this jacket 

Edited November 30, 2023 by eidolarr

[bboysparrow]

Any P10-S coming back into the fold? I miss me some patina. especially Raf Green

[DROVES]

I was wearing stotz today and i miss it from the line up.

Been buggin on the natural fibers, really hoping to wear the J70-BU till it patinas like raw denim. Only worn it a bit, but geeking on the Burel usage. Just curious how much it might soften from Scotchbrite.

[mariahscarry]

I recall asking E during ss23 in the comment section of his IG if Stotz was gone forever and his response was "Definitely not". I'm assuming it's just a waiting game at this point. I'm sure Stotz is probably their one escape rope they're holding onto at this point. 

[Davidwyh1998]

1 hour ago, mariahscarry said:

I recall asking E during ss23 in the comment section of his IG if Stotz was gone forever and his response was "Definitely not". I'm assuming it's just a waiting game at this point. I'm sure Stotz is probably their one escape rope they're holding onto at this point. 

P24A-S just came back this year

[denimjeans]

farming sufu rep formula:
1. size down
2. complain it's not fitting right (damn wonder why?)
3. ???
4. profit

[FlyingShiba]

13 hours ago, DROVES said:

I was wearing stotz today and i miss it from the line up.

 

Stotz is daily wear for me. I can only wear so much plastic. DS is great for short periods but after some time it feels like a ziplock bag. 

The farther we get from nature, the less healthy we are. It's just a fact

[mariahscarry]

My two cents on P30AL-DS

 

Having worn the P30A-DS in Alpha Green extensively since its initial release, I'd like to focus this review strictly on the design differences of the P30AL. The most notable design difference is the replacement of the 3/4 length with the full-length leg. Initially, I wasn't a fan, as it reminded me too much of Balenciaga's oversized cargo pant design, which I owned but found cumbersome due to the inseam length.

However, ACR expertly addressed this design flaw in the P30AL. Opting for my regular size Large, the pants fall perfectly at my feet, eliminating any dragging issues. The rapid adjust drawcord hem allows me to cinch the pant leg, creating a stylish look that pairs well with both sneakers and boots. Surprisingly, I've received more compliments on the P30AL in the last two weeks than I ever did on my P30A. Perhaps the shift to black from alpha green contributes to a more conservative appeal, but I appreciate having the best of both worlds. I’m not personally a fan of the new release tab addition so I removed it, while I understand its function I didn’t personally find it to be useful. I’ve included three photos, 1.) Open pant leg, 2.) Cinched pant leg, 3.) Open pant leg draped over my sneaker.

 

I purchased these during HBX's sale, and while discounts may deepen with time and varying retailer stocks, I recommend the P30AL to anyone seeking a baggier ACR pants design.

[beepy]

They do look better when you're standing like a normal person instead of the mothersite yeehaw stance.

[DROVES]

who on here resoled their DTAF1s with Goods & Services and had the cool welt sole added? I have some old chelsea boots I want to resole and have tracked down everything, but that post in this thread and searching "dtaf1" "resole" "welt sole" etc isn't bringing anything up for me

[shadowproject]

15 hours ago, mariahscarry said:

My two cents on P30AL-DS

 

Having worn the P30A-DS in Alpha Green extensively since its initial release, I'd like to focus this review strictly on the design differences of the P30AL. The most notable design difference is the replacement of the 3/4 length with the full-length leg. Initially, I wasn't a fan, as it reminded me too much of Balenciaga's oversized cargo pant design, which I owned but found cumbersome due to the inseam length.

However, ACR expertly addressed this design flaw in the P30AL. Opting for my regular size Large, the pants fall perfectly at my feet, eliminating any dragging issues. The rapid adjust drawcord hem allows me to cinch the pant leg, creating a stylish look that pairs well with both sneakers and boots. Surprisingly, I've received more compliments on the P30AL in the last two weeks than I ever did on my P30A. Perhaps the shift to black from alpha green contributes to a more conservative appeal, but I appreciate having the best of both worlds. I’m not personally a fan of the new release tab addition so I removed it, while I understand its function I didn’t personally find it to be useful. I’ve included three photos, 1.) Open pant leg, 2.) Cinched pant leg, 3.) Open pant leg draped over my sneaker.

 

I purchased these during HBX's sale, and while discounts may deepen with time and varying retailer stocks, I recommend the P30AL to anyone seeking a baggier ACR pants design.

These look great on you. Thanks for the review, super helpful. How tall are you?