The Flat Head

[mpukas]

8 hours ago, pudaspriest said:

... inconsistent.

This.

I've recently been quietly acquiring TFH western shirts (will do a post w/ pics soon), and mostly they fit me like they were tailored for me. Mainly their flannels and native check shirts. The denim shirts, however, run VERY small. I just got a western wabash in XL, and it's almost like a typical western garment size small. I haven't been able to workout per my normal routine for a couple of months and have lost my swole, and I can barley fit my arms in the sleeves and can barely button across the chest. Sleeve and body length is perfect for me, and I'm 5'11 w/ "normal" length arms and torso. 

This is a bit typical with every brand tho, that makes the same pattern shirts in different fabrics. Different fabrics sew up slightly differently, so even though they might be made on the same pattern, the fit can change. And then we have to consider/account for shrinkage with some fabrics, especially denim. If the pattern for a denim shirt hasn't been altered to account for shrinkage, then it can easily end 1-2 sizes smaller after a couple of washes. Shirts don't stretch the way a waist band on jeans will. 

I concur with what has been said by others many times - TFH fabrics, particularly shirting, are on a totally different level. Different stratosphere. Of course there are other brands making great fabrics (Samurai has put out a couple shirts in fabrics that I would say rival TFH, but haven't seen in person), but TFH has an almost unbelievable range and variety of different fabrics and nearly every one of them is simply amazing. 

I hope TFH follows a path as Kyle suggested a few months ago and focus on what they do best, western and heritage inspired, and don't the route of conceding to young fast fashion. Many other brands - IH, PBJ, SDA, Samurai - have their own brand identity and consistently sell out new relases season after season. TFH could easily survive and thrive. 

[evor1]

ugh why are the size 34 3002s presoak i just got almost the same size as my size 32 f310s which have been soaked and washed.  the 3002s fit perfectly right now presoak but after soaking i think theyll end up being too tight.  do you guys think with a warm soak i can get them to stretch out back to the presoak sizing?  i cant wear the f310s anymore after weight lifting.  it will dig into my hips when sitting.

Edited December 5, 2019 by evor1

[1fookntitefd]

25 minutes ago, evor1 said:

ugh why are the size 34 3002s presoak i just got almost the same size as my size 32 f310s which have been soaked and washed.  the 3002s fit perfectly right now presoak but after soaking i think theyll end up being too tight.  do you guys think with a warm soak i can get them to stretch out back to the presoak sizing?  i cant wear the f310s anymore after weight lifting.  it will dig into my hips when sitting.

I lost 2 inches in the waist and half an inch in the thigh, knee, and hem after a hot soak in mine. The waist stretched out by an inch after some wear but I don't think it ever got to presoak.

[evor1]

i feel like 36 might be looser than i want.  why dont they have a 35?!  wtf.  then again the jump from 32 to 34 wasnt that big either.  maybe itll work

Edited December 5, 2019 by evor1

[mpukas]

They really need to be more consistent with sizing across different cuts and denims. 

Example - love or hate IH, their sizing is the most consistent across different models I've experienced. IH expert Ruben puts it best and says a cut should be sized by the thighs - if the thighs are too tight and the waist is ok then it's not the right cut for you. 

[Cold Summer]

FH jeans are pretty consistently undersized in the slimmer cuts. It's not weird at all to go up two, or even three, sizes from what you usually wear.

FH actually tried really hard (at least when I was there!) to get their shirts to fit similarly from one to the next. They made new patterns for each shirt and tried to take fabric shrinkage into account. However, this was really hard to do because each fabric shrunk differently and it wasn't real easy to predict, especially when scaling up or down for other sizes. Usually they would make tweaks after getting a sample, so they put a lot of effort into it. The lady who did the patterns at FH was definitely one of the best and most significant people there. Don't know if she still works for them or not.

[mpukas]

I know this has been addressed before, but... when comparing the 3005 and 3009, which has the larger thigh measurement? 

[SmokeStackLightning]

@mpukas 3005 is slimmer in the thigh if I remember right (it has been awhile since I have had the 3009).

Self Edge measurements show this as well. The 3005 doesn't feel as slim in the thigh as the measurements may make it appear, though.

[Cold Summer]

I have both in the same size. The 3005 is just slightly smaller in the very top of the thigh than the 3009, but the 3009 tapers and is slimmer overall below that.

[mpukas]

my upper thighs are disproportionately large, so I think the 09 might be ideal for me. I can wear my 3202's, but the upper thigh is very tight and restrictive. 

[mpukas]

A couple quick close ups of the 3202 20oz. gnarly denim. Pics don't capture what this stuff is really like. 

[somatoform]

Interesting.I'll have to double check. But I cannot do the 3005 and 3009 in the same size. My sold 3009 in size 36 had a raw 13.5" thigh and shrunk down to 13". My 3005 starts with a raw upper thigh of 13.75" My raw 3009 in 38 is similar in upper thigh to my 3005 size 36.

 

It's possible that when FH gets up to the bigger sizes the thigh measurements between the two models shifts in favor of the 3005 being bigger.

[Geeman]

With the news around TFH and the uncertainty of what comes next I decided to grab a pair of their jeans from a guy, lightly worn,  on the IH forum. Not a massive fan of the arcs  but looking forward to trying their pioneer denim out. 

Should get them in the next couple of days when parcel force let it out of their grubby little hands and decide how much money they can try and screw out of me 

[Geeman]

Jeans arrived, the denim is really nice as expected. They had little wear and one initial cool wash but the vertical falling is already apparent.

The measurements were spot on and as the previous owner had only done one cool wash I thought I was expecting plenty of shrinkage in the length. Strange thing is after 2 washes one at 40 one at 60 degrees I've got virtually no further shrinkage, max half inch. 

Always thought TFH pioneer had loads of shrink in it. 

[Bobbo]

Which cut did you get? 

[Geeman]

58 minutes ago, Bobbo said:

Which cut did you get? 

D306

[julian-wolf]

S2004 came in last week—really excited for these

Planning to do a proper photo dump in the next few days

[Cold Summer]

Whoa. I've never even heard of that model, how old are those?!

That definitely doesn't look like Flat Head's 14.5 oz. Pioneer denim, either.

[SmokeStackLightning]

Those have to be really old stock nice find, look forward to more pictures when you are able. 

 

[julian-wolf]

^^ They're from 2004. I haven't been able to find a whole lot of info on these, but from what I gather it's a 13.25 oz. fabric that was used only for these and for the S2005 that was released the next year. As far as identifying features go, it's a fairly intense blue (rather than the almost-black of most modern TFH denim) with a pink-on-white selvedge ID very similar to that on Roy's Blackseed denim. The cut is supposed to be similar to that of the S303SP, which I've gathered was a WWII model released in 2003 (although the cut doesn't seem very WWII at all). This is all I've been able to find.

If anyone's heard more about these, I'd be really interested to know! Googling mostly turns up results for the S2004LTD, which seems to have been a substantially different model. Honestly, I sorta just bought these on a whim—I'd always wanted a pair of TFH jeans since I'd had such good experiences with their shirts and knitwear, but their modern cuts and detailing didn't really interest me, so seeing an old pair pop up in a straight cut with Levi's detailing was all it took.

[reallypeacedoff]

Heard that TFH is no more so thought I’d post up my SE05BSPs that are on display at SELA.

3 years, 1 soak, 30+ washes and 5 repairs at Darn-It!

For more pictures, click here!

Originally posted on reddit here!

[Radiohead89]

Couple iPhone 11 Pro pics. Thought the colors of the denim came out pretty well in these. Unedited. 

[gfarina55]

I've got a pair of 3001's 34w w/Japanese arcs that are in great condition and  a bit small for me. Anyone here interested in buying or trading for a FH or other Japanese denim w/slightly large measurements? Here's measurements: 34 tag, 17 waist, 12 thigh, 8.5 kn, 8.25 hem, 34 inseam, 10 FR, 14 BR. These have been worn sparingly and hot soaked once or twice, not even broken in. I think these are old-school Flathead judging from the backpatch, but I'm not an expert.

 

 

Edited January 14, 2020 by gfarina55

[ShootThePier]

[1fookntitefd]

^ RJBs!

[lance]

Great evo, super texture, ShootThe Pier!

[Cold Summer]

Gfarina55, those are some seriously old stock. Flat Head stopped using that patch, tab, and arcs by 2008 or so - they're from before the Levi's lawsuit. Cool stuff!

[SmokeStackLightning]

Been wearing my 3005's past couple days go figure this thread gets bumped 

[gfarina55]

Thx for the info Cold Summer! Unfortunately they're a bit tight on me and they've been in the closet for years. Hoping to find someone interested in them here.

[ShootThePier]

On 1/14/2020 at 12:25 AM, 1fookntitefd said:

^ RJBs!

Yup.! TFH RJB Corlection collaboration. Great denim, great fit on the 2109.