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Studio D'artisan

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that's a great shirt in my books and I wouldn't bother a bit for the long sleeves. the buttons are superb!

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4 hours ago, JDelage said:

Did you get it from Rakuten? If so, which seller?

From Okayama Denim

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19oz ducks pants in a 5-pocket cut, thanks to Okayama denim. In the wash they go...

(No reason to chain stitch the hem on those, is there?)

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nice!

keep us updated - also, let us know how much they shrink...

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I didn't measure them prewash, but the waist probably shrank 1" based on feel. I'll give full measurements once they're a bit softer. Back rise went down noticeably. They're super stiff right now but I'm very happy with them: great 5-pocket cut, roomy legs, and the color is great.

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(Not really) obligatory fit pics.

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Did size up on D1677 recently - waist is OK now, but the front and back rise are seriously low...

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Looks good on you, @foxy;)

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Hey, b_F, I sent you an email but guess it didn't get through. Yes,  Naoki, with his usual expediency,  delivered them to me from Japan to the US in a couple of days and the denim is exceptional. They are stiffer raw than I had thought from looking at the photos but will "soften a ton" with the first soak (as per a Rakuten description). As you observed,  they are very dark with a deep, pronounced twill. It is the tightest cut I own but decided to take a chance because of the cotton. I have not yet soaked them and likely won't for a while so I reserve judgement on the fit till then but they remind me of a size 34 1947 Levi's cut. The thighs will be looser @ 12 1/2" - 13" post soak but I expect the knee will be 9" and the hem 8" post soak. I am very pleased with the denim and details (they have leather washers between the buttons) and look forward to wearing them. The evo should be great (first pair of synth dyed denim I'll have worn in a while) so I plan to wear them hard.

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Ah too bad, I didn't receive any mails from you :(

But good to hear you picked up a pair! I'd love to see some more pictures of the denim. On the pics from Okayama Denim the denim looks super dark and great!

I picked up the Memphis x Zimbabwe some weeks ago and while the denim sounded great, it doesn't look that cool as I hoped it would. It has also a very pronounced twill, a ligther shade of indigo and very greyish blue. Also with a tiny bit too much weft showing through.

I guess the D1728 would have worked for me (although the waist is smaller on them than on the D1712) but I am full into my Full Count fever :D

Edited by beautiful_FrEaK

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Sorry you didn't receive the email; I sent it a few days ago to let you know that I received them and to thank you again. The D1728 denim is another Studio D' Artisan triumph. I have always thought the XXX-28 Ai dyed to the core Zim cotton denim has to be one of their very best and the D1554, machine dyed with natural indigo leaving the core just lightly dyed, is too and will wear with contrasting fades unlike most natural indigo dyed denim. The D1728 will will likely be as good but for different reasons. These guys really design and spec some special denim. Paul mentioned that Nihon Menpu makes most of their special runs. A few months ago I asked a US retailer, who we all know, who made the Jomon denim for 45RPM and he said he wasn't certain but if he had to guess it would be Nihon Menpu; those boys know their stuff! I'll take more photos of the denim and if they are acceptable, post them. I'm not much a photographer and only have my iPad Pro so no promises!

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How do you guys think the new Hank-Dyed Heavyweight Tokusima jean compares to the Pure Blue Japan AI-003 jeans.  I notice both are around 18oz.

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You have piqued my interest in the D1728, Lance. I can't seem to find measurement on Naoki's site, is there a page or do you have to email him?

I found measurements on Denimio, Okayama Denim, and SDA own site, but they are completely different from each other, and I definitely do not trust Denimio's measurements.

Edited by Niro

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I saw the D1728 a couple of weeks ago, and was very intrigued. Not only by the denim and deep color, but by the measurements. SDA own website seems to use the same generic size charts for every jean they make. I don't really trust Denimio or Okayama, but the their measurements do look appealing on this cut with a decent rise and slight taper. Anxious to see some feedback here! 

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Hey guys, here are my measurements for a size 36 as listed on my post from the previous page. As usual, my measurements upon receipt of the jeans were the same as Naoki's prior to my purchase. Waist 94 cm (37 in), front rise 30 cm (11.8 in), thigh 35.5 cm (13.9 in), leg opening 21.5 cm (8.5 in) and inseam 95 cm (37 in). Unless there is a ton of shrinkage, these raw dimensions seem reasonable; we'll see when I soak them and since there is some interest, I may soak them sooner than anticipated. I'll also post photos God willin and the creek don't rise! And, thank you both for the rep.

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12 hours ago, Niro said:

You have piqued my interest in the D1728, Lance. I can't seem to find measurement on Naoki's site, is there a page or do you have to email him?

I found measurements on Denimio, Okayama Denim, and SDA own site, but they are completely different from each other, and I definitely do not trust Denimio's measurements.

Niro, for accurate measurements in your size, just email Naoki and he will respond promptly ([email protected]). I hesitated before buying the D1728 because of the cut and was a bit of a pain in the a$$ yet Naoki was patient as always and remained a gentleman to the end. His English is flawless and he will respond quickly. Good luck

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thanks Lance, I will email Naoki. From what you got from him, SDA own measurements seem to be the most accurate.

From the measurements it looks to be a mid-high rise with a tapered fit. Although not as slim cut as I would prefer, but could make it work. I will await Naoki and then decide.

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9 hours ago, lance said:

Hey guys, here are my measurements for a size 36 as listed on my post from the previous page. As usual, my measurements upon receipt of the jeans were the same as Naoki's prior to my purchase. Waist 94 cm (37 in), front rise 30 cm (11.8 in), thigh 35.5 cm (13.9 in), leg opening 21.5 cm (8.5 in) and inseam 95 cm (37 in). Unless there is a ton of shrinkage, these raw dimensions seem reasonable; we'll see when I soak them and since there is some interest, I may soak them sooner than anticipated. I'll also post photos God willin and the creek don't rise! And, thank you both for the rep.

When you post the soaked / washed measurements, could you add the knee to that? Thank you.

 

PS: Measurements are also on the Okayama website. Looks like a good cut: http://www.okayamadenim.com/products/studio-dartisan-d1728-supima-x-giza-selvedge-denim-jeans

Edited by JDelage

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Will do, JDelage, that was the measurement I was concerned with and the one none of the retailers  seem to post. Raw measurement on my size 36 (measurement from my pair) is 9.6" and I am hoping it will remain 9" or more post soak.

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I would love to find another pair of x-33 in a 33, if anyone has one feedstock, hmu

id assume the only person who does is foxy, and doubt he'd part with it

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On 2/21/2017 at 9:25 PM, gazeboarder said:

How do you guys think the new Hank-Dyed Heavyweight Tokusima jean compares to the Pure Blue Japan AI-003 jeans.  I notice both are around 18oz.

Hey, gazeboarder, I have had a pair of PBJ Ai 001 for a number of years and I also own a pair of Studio D'Artisan Ai dyed D1507. The Ai 001 are only 17 oz but I think the weave is typical of their Ai dyed denim. Personally, I prefer the weave and texture of the Studio D'Artisan jeans primarily because although the PBJ Ai denim has nice base texture, it also has fuzzy clumps of yarn throughout which do not seem consistent with the rest of the weave and which I do not find appealing. I know fuzzy clumps is not very descriptive but if you look closely at the photos, you'll see what I'm referring to. They appear to be dark spots in the photos. The Studio D'Artisan denim has a wonderful, consistent texture (as seen in the photos of the new hank-dyed jeans) that is much cleaner. Just my 2 cents.

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This photo gives an indication of the D1728 cut; not much taper, pretty straight. Should be a very nice fit given reasonable shrinkage

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This photo shows the bicolored arcs which I like a lot and the red tab sewn into SDA's half lined pocket

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From left to right: leather washers between the tack and denim; selvedge line on both sides of the fly; herringbone cotton duck pockets which are quite substantial

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Anyone wants specific photos of details I've missed, just ask. This is a very nice pair of jeans!

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SDA were my first pair of quality denim that actually worked for me. I have a special spot for them... Maybe time to add to the SD-101...

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I would prefer more tapering, but from measurements on SDA site, the thigh and leg opening are not much bigger than the tapered cuts. I guess it's more like a tight straight. Not too big a deal.

My concern now is the rise. Mid rise (front rise of 26-28cm) has always been perfect for me. This looks to be pushing towards a high rise cut. Would you agree with that Lance?

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Niro, yes, I think it's more a straight cut with not much taper and a medium rise at about 28 cm (11 inches) post soak. But my "wish list" of post soak dimensions may be just that as this cotton is an unknown.I'm dreading the soak at this point! If I lose much more than 2.5 cm in the rise and 3/4 that in the leg, the jeans will be uncomfortable for me. I think the thigh might be important to you as well since the raw dimension of my size 36 is 35 cm (14 inches). I don't know what size you take but 35 cm raw does not seem to be consistent with a tight, straight fit. Sorry, it's late and I'm rambling incoherently at this point but I am hoping to lose not more than 1 inch in the rise and 0.8 inches in the knee; this may be a fantasy on my part. This too may be a cut more suited to you than to me but I bought them knowing the post soak dimensions could be uncomfortably tight for me because I couldn't pass up this cotton. May be a quick,  discounted sale so if you like the post soak dimensions of a size 36, stay tuned!

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On 22/02/2017 at 2:25 AM, gazeboarder said:

How do you guys think the new Hank-Dyed Heavyweight Tokusima jean compares to the Pure Blue Japan AI-003 jeans.  I notice both are around 18oz.

In addition to what lance said, I think the old AI-002 and the SDA versions (D1677, etc.) I find both denims very much alike - both were in the region of 16-17oz.

now with the new version from PBJ (which I haven't seen in person, yet) I wouldn't be surprised if the new SDA version (which I've only seen on the SE site, so far) would be fairly similar again.

Personally, I find the 16-17oz versions heavy enough and won't go after a heavier version.

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