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I've been discussing this a little with @beautiful_FrEaK, a simple overview of the jeans mostly focussed upon here, i.e. from 36 to 55. We noticed that the 47 has of course been widely discussed, as have in the recent years the different WWII and 46 models. On the different 50s models there hasn't been that much discussion, I found. These are, I think, the main characteristics regarding denim and cut. 36/37: probably the widest fit (thigh, knee, hem) dark denim denim relatively smooth stitch colour: mostly tobacco/orange (LVC has some lemon/yellow in it) 42: two versions, one with cinch, one without, already coarser WWII denim stitch colour: yellow WWII: different versions, but generally higher rise, wider in the thigh and knee, a little tapered, dark denim relativel coarse (neepy and slubby to various degrees) denim stitch colour: yellow 46/47: Rise a little lower than the WWIIs Upper thight a little less than WWIIs, knee similar to WWIIs, hem wider than WWIIs, thus straighter, hardly any taper less dark denim, more blue relatively smoother denim stitch colour: orange and yellow 47 tab one sided (katamen) 50s- there seem to be three main model: 1951, 1953 and 1954 (and on) 1951- little lower rise compared with the 47, similar thigh, less knee and hem denim again a bit brighter similar denim to 47 stitching is mostly brown with some yellow tab both sided (ryomen) 1953- the year the type 2 jacket was introduced while the 51 became slimmer in the knee and hem than the 47, the 53s got wider than the 47s again in the knee and hem denim seems similar to 47 and 51 stitching is mostly brown with some yellow (rainbow stitching) with the arcs from the WH version in yellow shorter side stiches no more selvedge in the coin pocket narrower v-stitch tab both sided (ryomen) 1954- very similar to the 1953 according to the WH models the hem is a little wider switch to more mass production had the back middle belt loop move a bit to the left, offset --> easer to sew as the material/fabric is not as thick the WH model still has the leather patch, later switch to paper patch yarn colours like 53 model 1956- The FW model is even slimmer than the 1951 one, knee and hem Now while the FWs, TCB and WH 50s models I checked all had mainly brown stitching with some yellow (waist, arcs, ...) the 50s models of Cushman (lot 22177) and also Joe McCoy (905S) have mostly yellow stitching. Cushman Joe McCoy So where there models in the 50s with mostly brown stitching and others with mostly yellow? Or is this based on specific year models? Perhaps something is stated in the 501 book. Here are some helpful measurements and overview graphics from the Duke.13 points
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Hmm, could be a fun challenge to list. I've given away twice as many jeans as I own currently - 16. TCB '50s Contest TCB S40s Contest TCB Seaman's Trouser x 2 Warehouse 700 Warehouse 1001XX Warehouse Signet Contest Full Count 0105 (Old) Full Count 0105 (New) Full Count 0105 Super Smooth Roy (I don't know, something wide and Black Seed Cone) Roy Leroy Deviants Contest '47 Evisu 2001 No. 2 Left Field Greaser Mister Freedom Lot64 LHT I think that's everything. WoMCon incoming.8 points
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That sounds horrible.. Any good? .. i dunno, good at what? they're just selling overpriced jeans to clueless Londeners with too much money, it's like shooting fish in a barrel I've used their hemming service numerous times and it's acceptable for £20 .. (i think R&H charge £30) our options are fairly limited over here. I don't shop at these kind of places.. i walked right past R&H a few weeks ago.. i just don't see the point in going in to look at jeans which cost 50% less in Japan.4 points
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Yes! It's a lovely one, Deborah has one too. Here's the original linebook entry: Type 781 Tube Neck Pullover The Tube Neck Pullover has a deep, wide, plain knit tube neck which can be rolled down or worn loose around the neck and face.There is a large single hand-warmer pocket across the front, and the cuffs, neck, and hem are finished clean with no rib or change of tension. -Made in Scotland -Fully fashioned, hand framed, and hand finished -Plain stitch -The pictured sample is in black cold felted lambswool3 points
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I’m also paid up. Still think a solstice start date would be cool, but looking forward to the kickoff whenever it is.3 points
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I must admit the first time I went there I was far from impressed with the attitude from the staff. However , they have redeemed themselves since! Rudys a genuinely nice personas as is Linda, not to mention @Mr Black banging out top notch hem jobs. I had some QC issues with a pair of paraboot I got from there and they couldn't do enough to help get it sorted & Rudy hemmed a pair of warehouse for me while we sat and chatted and put the world to right... It's Eye wateringly expensive but run by good people.2 points
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Thanks mate, knew someone here would be organised enough 😉2 points
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Paid up. Now to just wait! @Dr_Heech I've got a cinch, 30's pair. Don't think there were too many of us.2 points
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But you'll be able to stitch as messily as you like, leaving Konaka-san green with envy and leaving scraps of thread of any length.2 points
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Or an extra one leaving you wondering if you missed something and where it should go.2 points
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The Flat Head "one wash" "FN-SDW-001L - 10oz Denim Western Shirt" in size 42 for sale - Bougth with new tags (tags available and will be shipped with shirt). - New & still unwashed, I wore for two days only - Reason for selling: oversized shirt on my body. - Mother of Pearl snap buttons Sizing: Chest Width - 56cm Shoulder - 49cm Sleeves - 67cm Length - 78cm Please DM if interested2 points
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Ashoes&Son from Saitama Founded in 1995, apparently for 20 years mostly a fashion shop, then after acquiring the necessary skills and machines offering repairs and making denim items. I saw a few items in this shop like a type 1, WWII type 1, WWII jeans and these '47 type ones. Their web address is stated as ahoes.co.jp , but I couldn't get it io work. But here is their rakuten shop. And they also offer all kinds of repairs and hemming services.2 points
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I feel the same way, don't think I have ever purchased the same cut nor the same denim. Like trying different cuts/denim and have others I am ready to try at any given time. Actually, I did buy the recent Imperial pairs so I guess the 'same denim' isn't entirely true.1 point
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I just paid the rest of the price to Simone and from now I'm just looking forward to it... 🤩1 point
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Also paid the balance, looking forward to this kicking off! Assuming we’ll have a new dedicated thread once the contest starts?1 point
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New pair of FW 601xx 1951 "one wash" in size 34, hue of indigo is amzaing , clean and impressive construction. below picture taken on 3rd day of the wear: hemmed by Okayama Denim using their Union Special 43200G , chain stitch with matching color thread, original pair was having 80 cm inseam length, I needed 77cm for 5cm cuff Rivets are pointed / sharp , hopefully will not scratch the skin when putting hands into pockets or when touched without caution. Below waist measurement pictures taken before first wear: Waist measured 86cm , using "The Relax Method": 88cm waist width using flat method: Speedway provided waist measurement using "Flat Method" and was flexibile in communication whereas "Hoosier" was rigid, so I bought from Speedway Waist measured again after 3rd day of the wear, it shows 3cm stretched, now measuring 91cm. It seems it will easily stretch more 1 or 2 cm like any other Japanese denim in coming 20 to 30 wears, one wash pairs usually stretch 5cm (tends to reach raw position) by passage of time.1 point
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I'm in a reflective mood today.. In the early to mid 90s i was living in a shithole of a bedsit and barely affording my £28/wk rent.. when it came to buying clothes, my budget wouldn't stretch to new so i just bought vintage.. In the days before the internet, i had no clue as to what i was buying other than the fact they were old Levi's and a quarter of the price of the 501s you could buy on the high street.. A couple of years passed and i started to earn a bit more £££s.. i bought a pair of 555 LVC-47s.. in retrospect, this was probably the first time it occured to me that the vintage Levi's i'd been buying previously could be from different eras (ikr? .. you internet kids don't know you're born) around 2003 i bought another pair of LVC and wanted to get them hemmed.. back then I didn't know what a Union Special was, all i knew was i wanted the hem to be the same as the existing hem.. ie- 'not single stitch' .. i took them to a laundrette who did alterations but they said they couldn't do it.. i would have to find someone with a machine that could chainstitch.. i went down to Ted Williams.. a proper old boys tailor on London Rd who said he could chainstitch but it wouldn't look exactly the same because the hem was done with a chainstitching machine rather than a sewing machine with a chainstitch setting.. plus he didn't think his needles would be strong enough to penetrate the layers of denim.. more confused than ever, i found myself down a gennel and up a rickety fire escape to Terrace Tailors on a Sheffield backstreet.. the room had a massive cross on the wall with candles either side and a polaroid of the tailor himself kissing the hand of Pope John Paul II ..? I explained what i wanted and tape measure around his neck. he took me into another room with a rail full of clothing.. top rail was garments waiting to be altered, bottom rail was altered.. (this is the single most significant part of my entire journey through the denimsphere) he pulled out a pair of SC-47s and showed me the hem.. it blew my tiny mind.. i didn't even know Japanese repros existed.. i almost had to go light one of the candles He said they were from a small menswear shop in Sheff called Brother 2 Brother.. he would hem them (a little longer to allow for shrinkage?) using his sewing machine which could chainstitch.. I knew where B2B was, i'd just never been in, they stocked the likes of Maharishi, D&G, Margaret Howell, Dries Van Noten and such.. (high end streetwear through to mid-range fashion labels) this was well before the 2008 heritage boom so 'menswear' didn't yet equate to costly workwear, shops following the JP retail model didn't exist back then.. Nigel Cabourn was still designing highstreet tat for Debenhams rather than pricey Everest-wear. The guys who worked at B2B were always immaculately dressed (in their shiny shoes) i just wasn't (in my tatty randomly sized vtg Levi's, or skateboard jeans from a previous lifetime . i never went in because my pockets were never deep enough to buy anything, the labels were not my steeze and i felt intimidated by the smartly dressed staff, all of whom were a good 10yrs older than me.. but i was desperate to go nerd out over the Sugarcanes.. Niro (the UK distributor of SC) was established as a clothing store in 1986 but i'm not sure exactly when they became the Sugarcane distributor so maybe these SCs came from Niro or maybe they were bought retail by the B2B buyer on a trip to Japan?.. either of these explanations could account for the eye watering price tags.. my questions were many and looking back.. i think they knew as little about these jeans as i did.. they gave me a 2003 Sugarcane Catalogue (to shut me up) which i've kept.. I think this was the first catalogue Sugarcane ever produced, i've never seen anything predating it. it's on the cusp of the SC product codes after they moved on from M .. it's more substantial, more of a yearbook than the magazine type catalogues which would come thereafter.. in the months following i bought a marked down pair of SC-47s from B2B, returned by a customer because they were too small after washing... the sufu sizedown 3 craze was yet to happen A couple of years later, B2B moved premises to a larger retail space underneath the recently opened West One development (across the road from The Designers Republic) a friend of mine did the electrical work for the shopfit.. he got me the 2006 Sugarcane catalogue, it was in here that i first spotted the LoneWolf Mechanic boots.. the 2010 catalogue which i've posted here previously (MF thread.. years ago) came from Vari. I couldn't afford B2B asking price for Sugarcanes so i found myself on the internet.. Hirofumi Udono at Vari was great to deal with, he spoke perfect English and was willing to ship internationally. He lined me up with Hawaii's, Lonewolf boots, Whitesville & Cushman sweats..ect.. i was wearing SC-47s around the time my kid was born in 2009.. (another reason why I’m so attached to them) i didn't do WAYWT back then.. i didn't have the balls but seen here (blurry candid shot) loading the car up with Woolrich Woolen Mills, chambray Upland shirt from the Daiki Suzuki era I found myself here at sufu around 2006/7.. anyway.. enough of all this reminiscing.. Maynard spotted these while searching for his recently acquired SC-66 and gave me a hola.. ..knowing my pathetic inability to resist.. i didn't .. so In a nostalgic denim haze, i've dug out the rest of my SC-47 collection. ..first 4 pairs are raw denim, last pair are current wearers but previously o/w, check out he different hues ..from left, 1991-1997.. 2003-2007 I took this shot of he o/w pair back in 2013 before chucking them on the pile ..i've just got them back from a hem job at soas so i've recreated it A bit more graff, a few extra MMs on the waistline and the JMC sweat is a little more faded 2003 & 2006 Catalogues can be seen here1 point