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DSB 1947 model Just gave this thing it's second hand wash a couple of days ago The denim is so coarse and crispy I'm worried the armpits are going to blow out just from the fabric rubbing. Sweat without a doubt exacerbating this

I think my first time ever posting with no denim. Inis Meain, Powerwear, Great Lakes, Quoddy. Despite not being into the mocs aesthetic I found a pair of black cxl grizzly boots in their tent sale, my size for like 70% off msrp. Had to try because of the minimal sole, and I have to say I love how they feel as boots, and the black + boot thing gets away from the sort of boat shoe/loafer associations with mocs that I’m not particularly into.

Smattering of lunch run head sweat Vintage Brooks Brothers Denime Yuketen

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Also, as someone that worked in the pizza industry for way too long, I relate to that kid on the patch on a soul level.

🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 🍕 etc.

Ha, I also spent too long in one period of my life delivering pies. This pair will be personal.

Some more here. https://thedenimhound.com/2017/06/canton-overalls-the-birth-of-japanese-denim-and-the-art-of-imperfection/ " In 1963, under a partnership with Canton Textile Mills (USA) & Oishi Trading Company, Maruo Clothing Inc. made the first pair of domestically manufactured jeans." So Canton was like Cone a US denim mill. Oishi imported the fabric and Maruo (Big John) manufactured them and they were sold in Japan as Canton jeans. "In October of 1965 Canton dropped the world’s first one-wash jeans (This first ever run of one-washed jeans used several household washing machines to wash). *This info is disputed by the denim brand Edwin, who claims to have made the first pair in 1961. In 1967 Maruo Clothing created its own denim brand “Big John”. Big John began manufacturing jeans using Cone Mills denim starting in 1968. In the early 70’s, Big John would be the first to use Japanese denim (AFAIK from Kurabo Mills) in it’s production of jeans. Canton Textile Mills closed down in 1981. Oishi Trading Company had to produce Canton jeans using different workshops such as Takahata. Eventually, Oishi Trading Co. decided to stop producing jeans under the Canton brand in 1983. The son of the founder of Oishi Trading Co. went on to create Oni Denim."

I find that preserving the leather patch depends on a couple things: leather used, stamped branding vs paint / ink branding. Obenauf’s (what I’ve used before) or some other leather preservative can work well with stamped patches (ie: iron heart), but can smear patches that are painted/inked. Keep in mind, a leather preservative will change the color of the leather. My advice - embrace the aging of the patch as that goes with the territory and don’t boil the patch and turn it into jerky… boiling water is the worst enemy to leather patches, IMO.

Idk man, not enough zippers in that fit for my liking…

Busy, busy at the shop. Lil sweaty and knackered. All denim Games Suit.

chilly am = back into the green sack, getting some sugar time… wooly snood- m65 - kavu - lvc type 1 - sc1947 - pecos

I got it from High Grade site directly. sure i will try to take some fit picture

Ruined is a very strong word but somehow this "new Denime" made me less interested in the recent releases. When Warehouse took over I was very excited. Knowing they wanted to go back to the origin and rumors have it that Hayashi-san helped them (inofficially of course). The "new" XX denim they made for the 220 faded extreme quickly. Allegedly this is how the first run(s) of XX denim faded. I don't know. The XX denim I have on my pairs is of course from later runs and this faded rather slow. The fit of the 220 is very different to the original XX model (but after all I liked the fit, so I won't complain too much). All in all, these releases feel very Warehouse-like but with a different patch, red tab and hardware. Original Denime felt more rugged/unrefined. Even the 220 model now with different denims, changes of cut is totally Warehouse-style. In that regard, the 30th Original Line was a very good product and got the sense of "old Denime" very well (just don't talk about the 3-6 years under Wego before they introduced the original Line, they watered down Denime).

Really cool mid-'40s 11MW repro on Yahoo, pre-lawsuit

September shirt stacking season Sugar Cane, Sugar Cane, Warehouse, TCB, Grant Stone.

✋🖖🫴🫱🫰👉🦶🍕🍿😙

moc luv, moc lief!!!!!!!!

This is correct. During this era they made many garments for different brands that followed similar naming as you see with the Harley Davidson jacket or Indian Motorcycle, sometimes adding prefix letters (Indian motorcycle has "IMX-XXX" or "IMXXXXX")

Excellent patch!

That’s a fun patch! I’m enjoying the passion and enthusiasm Simone puts into his work.

Interesting. I found this just now: "ONI is owned by Masao Oishi, the son of the founder of Oishi Trading Company who were one of the original Canton partners who first made domestically manufactured jeans in Japan in the 1960’s under the Brand name “Canton”, using American Denim from Canton Mills." https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/8o7uhd/oni_day/

👍

Now that’s a sick design!

Not really unknown but I don't think Canton has its own thread here? https://jp.mercari.com/item/m74426806089 Seeing "Oishi Trading Company": is there a connection to Oishi-san of Oni denim?

Which makes total sense, but also kind of reinforces a point I was trying to make - isn't Denime just an extension of Warehouse now? (And I don't think that was inevitable - they could have taken over the brand without assimilating it so thoroughly to their own. Seems a shame to me.)

Looks good, @scooby! I have the same jacket. I have the matching jeans to my uncle who's worn nothing but 501's from the 50s to today. He loves them. Don't be afraid to wash it with fabric softener. You're not going to hurt anything, but tumbled lightly after using liquid softener should soften that dry, crunchy texture a bit and leave the fabric feeling more pliable.

“Muoviti cazzo!!” 😄

The grace of late birth 😅😉

Love that!!! Will be proud to wear that for 18 months and beyond! Will have to work out how best to preserve it against the stresses of washing and drying and the detergents etc (anyone got any good tips on that I'd be all ears!)

Looks great! 👏

I was thinking about this for some time now. Especially after fading my Denime 220 and seeing so many examples of Warehouse jeans which have strong fades after a short time: do they design it like this so people are satisfied quicker and can start a new pair earlier? Or do they just save indigo and dye less to save money (in the current economic sitaution in Japan)? Also my Sugar Cane SC 1946 fade rather quick. Or I just got better at wearing jeans...

I ignore the hype, release cycle, and webshops and simply enjoy what I own. Saying that Warehouse "ruined" Denime because they are releasing a variety of iterations of the products in a short time period is a pretty narrow definition of "ruined," IMO.

I also only own one pair of WH and no Denime. (Also, a WH jacket I ordered from Celluloid back in the spring that doesn't come til this winter). I'm really torn on my WH pair. On the one hand I quite like them - the cut is solid and so are the details, but they're the least durable pair of Japanese jeans I've had by a long shot, and also the fastest fading, most drastic shrinking and the worst pocket bags too. They almost feel designed to fall apart, as if that's part of the charm (which it is I concede). I like mine as faded as the next dude, but I also still like that durable workwear part of them to exist. The pair I own is a denim that I think isn't offered that much - I think it's possibly the same design Signet had a contest with, I just I got it before the contest as a 1003xx 1946 model. It's a pretty crunchy denim, one that feels a bit heavier and stiffer than the 14.5 oz that it's rated at. It's one that is a bit different than most others I own. It's not my favorite but it's unique. I can't speak to them ruining Denime but I can say that what they're doing with the brand holds no personal appeal to me, and that what they're doing does seem to all blend together in a way that feels much too close to the cannibalizing, cyclical fashion industry cycle that - theoretically - this hobby encourages getting away from. I get that lots of the brands here have A/W and S/S lines, but the machination behind some of them feels a little more curated or intentional.

I speak as someone who owns only one pair of Warehouse jeans and no Denime, with no special liking for or animus against either company but... Does anyone else think Warehouse have basically ruined Denime? I know Denime has been through a series of incarnations already and aficionados might think it long since had its day, but it just seems mad now. Without ever having handled any, I knew basically what the 220xx was. I might have sprung for a pair at some point. Now every time I look on Bears there's another epicycle on an iteration of a version of it. It makes my head spin. Warehouse's numbering and style variations are hard enough to keep track of even if you're a fan. Did they have to do the same thing to Denime?

It sounds logical but it's also new info so let's not nail down any conclusions just yet.. let's find some more MJ denim jackets and see where that takes us Remember when @Graytrain found that "MP era Bluebell shirt" on the previous page.. i've just zoomed the label and it's not MP, it's MS.. therefore, it seems MP = M-Pants MJ = M-Jacket MS = M-Shirt I've just darkened the image so you can see it better

👍👏

Edit: thanks to the mod who moved this here. Wasn't aware of this thread. I have been outta the denim game for a few years at this point, but now am fully back in and remembered that I have a relatively lightly worn pair of 2019 1947 DD-1001XXs in a 36" (label size), hemmed and chainstitched to a 29" inseam. Anyone want for $100? They don't even come close to fitting me anymore.

Took my deadstock 1960s/1970s FRYE cowboy boots to my cobbler for some Vibram sole protectors after about 2 months in the rotation. The rubber heel caps were brand new but had deteriorated and dried out in the decades unworn in the their box. As you can see they started to crumble once worn, especially the right foot. One of the pitfalls of vintage footwear. Sometimes rubber doesn't make it. They will be replaced shortly after I break in the new Vibram topper.

@Double 0 Soul yes professor 😂

From what I've tried Warehouse, Pherrows & Ironheart are flimsy & prone to ripping. Sugar Cane holds up well enough, from my experience. Can't speak for Tender & UES, but the old SDA-models I have have some of the sturdiest pocket bag fabric there is. In general also very dependent on what you carry in your pockets and what not. Since I started carrying my phone in the back pocket or in a fanny pack I don't have problems regarding blowouts of front pockets anymore.

We'll have to roll our sleeves up and do a bit of denim-archaeology.. I've already found 2x non-denim jackets with MJ codes both look quite old but i'm not sure how old Down jacket with this label (MJ-793) 'found in a vintage store' Flight / Bomber jacket with this label (MJ-631) 'NOS' Happy hunting folks.. ..also this Harley Davidson jacket (MJ-873) which just screams 1980s

Here's something I've never seen before I guess in the era before M-series product numbers, when Pants were given MP-series numbers, Jackets were given MJ-series… (Can anyone confirm???) Sorry for the low-quality images; Mercari Shops is being weird

Finally gpt a chance to get this jacket

I used to be unable to stick to one pair of jeans for any extended period of time. However, I've worn my LB40s 5-6 days per week since I received them in January. The timing is actually pretty nice as I'll be putting them to the side at the one year mark for the contest. I'm feeling confident that I can be just as disciplined for the contest pair which I'm excited about because I've never faded a pair for 18 months straight.

Kamakura Denime Alden

A couple photos of the 220XX-47 fabric in the sun at the weekend and one from today, it’s developing at quite the pace and the fit is evolving nicely too. Lovely pair of jeans. Real classic “jeans” jeans, one might say. I haven’t quite captured it here but there is a brownness to the reverse side of the fabric.