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Thank you @vIGGiou riou. Pants are 1942, bought them 2009 or 2010. Like all my pants it’s full of ink splatters. On jeans I don’t mind it. But on these I didn’t like it. So decided to draw a anchor pattern on them. To pull the attention away. A t least 8 yrs ago allready, start to wear off . But I still enjoy wearing them. Kinda a vintage pair. I peeled off the Carhartt patch from the jacket. One day I realized I was wearing a bib, sweater, hat, and vest all Carhartt. A bit to much branding for my taste. So off the came

Para, Carhartt, cheap t shirt, buzz Dickson, vans

(cross-post from Denime thread) A hint of autumn in the air this morning here, so the boots went back on! Toys McCoy Denime Red Wing

220XX-47 fit At the very slimmest of the spectrum of fits for me, but comfortable nonetheless. Wearing the FC 0105’s immediately prior to this pair probably emphasised that!

Greetings from Mount Trebevic, Sarajevo Sweltering hot here, glad of the cooler mountain respite Star of Hollywood / Freewheelers / Buckweat

Undercover/Full Count/Birkenstock

Simone knows how to use his Union Special

failing to blend in as usual… tcb / vintage / r-mocs

Ridiculously expensive for what they really are but l guess as long as peeps keep buying them....

LVC jeans now at 320 € at the German Levi's website (but hey, you can get them with 25% right now). That's really crazy

Wickett & Craig skirting and nickel plated buckle

It's very rare that I find a pair of jeans chainstitched to my exact inseam but these MF are my personal pot o gold. Vtg denim RR cap Batman 251 Tee Vtg painted leather belt Turquoise and Coral blanket pin New to me Mister Freedom Outlaw in Cone Western work boots w/ rope embroidery

Pre-soak After initial wash (30 °C machine wash)

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

The wear on those chinos, especially down the outer seam, is 👌🏻

perfect look smooth sailor. chino's are 1945, or 1942 ? also Carhartt vest is amazing ...

Denime 66XX Original Line W34 Worn a bit, too tight for me. Had one small restitch at the placket. Waist: 34.5" Front rise: 10.625 Thighs: 12.8" Leg opening: 7.7" Inseam: 32" 100$ shipped. Or make me a good offer

That's tough to say. The Denime XX from the Original Line have much more pronounced hip flare. The WoM fit closer to a pair of Ooe, even if the front ride is a tad lower. I think the Resoute 714 are similar in the top. Although the thighs meaured only 12.5" after wash, it doesn't feel that slim (exactly like my Denime 220A). Other jeans with such a small thigh usually fit more restricting on me.

+1 for the TCB version, not deep-dived on the measurements but in principle it looks fantastic

Hello all would anyone be able to give me any info on this older chambray popover which I think was purchased from cultzim a few years ago?

I’ve been wearing a pair of Word of Mouth jeans for a few months now. Mine are a 1950s cut. They are my most comfortable and best fitting jeans. I highly recommend them. And Simone is truly one of the nicest people to talk to. I hope he has a lot of success.

I picked up a NW 811 in size 36 from Pants Avenue since I knew Eternal was going to restock at the end of this month. I'm not a huge fan of their new patch so figured I'd get an older pair. Naoki was awesome and super quick with shipping out. I will update the thread when I receive it.

@cultpop 0217 loving the trademark eclectic flourish... including the one turn-up with the one turn-down

Got to visit the new Seattle Aquarium expansion today. I helped install the piping for all of the sea life areas. Crazy that I was inside that huge tank when it was empty.

They look great! The only thing i think they missed the mark on is the blank back pockets. i was expecting to see a pizza shaped arc, like these old real mccoys from back in the day, to match the theme. Either way, nice write-up.

Post wash, almost 3 years on both pieces. Jacket has gone through a couple of repairs through self edge and the jeans surprisingly have held up really well.

Nice look on the pants. This board needs more white denim here.

Just got a dead-stock pair of 1954ZXX, the date on the tag is 4309, so assuming 2009 Just a couple of things are throwing me off, first is the 1996 date on the flasher The back of the waist button is blank No pocket bag print Everything else checks out on them and they smell old Thoughts anyone, or does anyone still have a pair from this period to compare with mine?

Pictures of the jeans

Just some quick comparison photos. S601xx, S506xx, 601xx-C, 506xx '33, 601xx '42 and 506xx '42. The WWII tux and 1942 tux are made from the same denim.

Horween Cavalier, python and matte nickel hardware

Havasupai men in shelter. Looks like someone is making new shoes... (1919 Glass negative from Frederick Webb Hodge)

Few randoms as I clean out the closet: Levi's 519 Premium line, purchased from Levi's Kyoto store in 2006. My first pair worn from raw, loooove the vertical falling on these, really comfortable fabric as well (maybe 10.75 oz.?) Sugarcane 1966 from 2010. Need pictures of the frontside sometime, the whiskering is really ideal for my taste. TCB Contest Jeans: Can't remember when this was, but I really tested the limits on this fabric with washing/drying. Wouldn't do it again as I prefer a more balanced washed/air dry look these days, but it was an interesting experiment. The fabric itself has wild puckering/marbling properties They're really that intense in real life too, really comical 😅

All size small LA6B-DS ALPHA GREEN $OLD P48-CH BLACK $400 SP29K-M $OLD Add Ship and fees All full pack

JOHNG MUNG DENIM

runabout brander Runabout sample jeans Nicks boots

TCB 30s jacket, Whitesville tee, TCB 50s, FC belt

My old San Antonio, TX made 1933 LVC 501's patched and repaired and still going strong. Cone Mills White Oak denim never disappoints.

Just came in and may be the best I've had a flat head t fit. 42, one size up from all my old ones. Now I want some more... jeans are RJB D105-14FW, boots are RMC Buco engineers which I'll post in the shoes that look better with age thread