Tender Co. Denim

[julian-wolf]

The single "during" photo that I bothered to take. Turns out a potfull of vaguely yellowish water with some socks in it isn't all that interesting to look at…

…but finally, once the pot's had a chance to cool down: socks! There's a variegation to the color of the brown ones (left) that doesn't really come through in the photos, but beyond that I think they're an okay representation. Overall, I'm really pleased, and I can't wait to start wearing them.

I may tie-dye the left ones as an experiment, or I may not. I like the color of them on their own as-is, but I'm not sure how well it'll work next to leather, which'll really be the deciding factor. Thoughts on possible colors that would look good over this?

For reference, the mohair are on the right and the alpaca are on the left.

Edited May 29, 2018 by julian-wolf

[rodeo bill]

On 24/05/2018 at 7:56 PM, Niro said:

@rodeo bill How are you getting on with the Whopper jacket? Any evo pics?

Thanks for asking- actually I leant this to a shop in Japan for a while, and I only got it back a couple of weeks ago. It's been too warm to wear it since, so there's not a lot more wear on it than last time. I'll certainly keep you up to date! I'll try to get some wear updates of other things before too long.

On 27/05/2018 at 10:29 PM, julian-wolf said:

This is really exciting! Thanks so much for all the photos. Your socks look great 

Here's another personalisation- Tudor just sent me these photos of a couple of garments he's had altered:

Type 921 Edited Tail Jacket khaki dyed linen insulating twill, with reversed khaki dyed denim pockets. These have been bluffed on (sewn on from the inside), which is a really tricky technique, but looks lovely and clean, and really works on this jacket I think:

 

Type 110 Drawstring Pyjama Trousers, walnut dyed wool-cotton striped calico. These have got really nice bias-cut bellows pockets, in the same fabric, but undyed:

It's so rewarding seeing people's adaptations and alterations of clothes, and how they change beyond their original designs. Many thanks Tudor!

More soon.

[Niro]

Great, will be good to see how it evolves. Any plans on making the jacket into production run or not yet?

[rodeo bill]

^thanks. I really appreciate your interest, and I'll pass it along. Whooper's a slightly different setup to Tender- production isn't my decision (that's with Akira, in Tokyo) and the production scale is quite a bit larger than Tender. For Tender I can make a pattern myself, delivery the fabric by car and slot 4 pieces into the production schedule. For Whooper we have to work to minimum orders, for sewing and also fabrics and trims. I'll certainly let you know though- I'd love to see these jackets, and various other ideas, in production, but for now it's just the four core jeans styles.

[JDelage]

Received mycross weave 132 pair today. The denim is the most interesting I’ve seen in years, and this pair fits me perfectly. The denim has a little bit of give, of stretch to it. It’s a unique feel.

 

 

[rodeo bill]

Really pleased you like them! Fit's great in WAYWT too :-)

Here are some jeans a little further down the line- ecru barge canvas 132s, worn hemmed and repaired by SF artist and great friend of the brand Jason Jagel. Worn in the studio, painting murals, and fixing a roof:

[bartlebyyphonics]

^ most excellently and appropriately worn!!!

[rodeo bill]

Speaking of wear, here are Deborah's 130s, entering retirement:

And their successor, same rinsed 130s size 2 (with an indigo bicolore canvas double fronted butterfly jacket):

[bartlebyyphonics]

good to see cycles turning

and sharing these most daintily stained in comparison to jagel's grunged out pair as worn far too few times all things considered

but

sometimes in the year a heavy white trouser with military surplus or chambray and soft leather footwear really is the ticket...

132d etc.

 

[redragon]

Dream match-up of gstp with leather nato strap. 

Width of the leather makes fitting really snug, perseverence pay off, really like the result. 

Verdigras logwood wave calico chilling in the background.

[rodeo bill]

Looking good! Funny, I just changed my GS/TP over to a nato last week. Trade Pattern dial on a tan oak bark strap:

 

[JDelage]

If I may, both those watches are too small for the straps, IMHO. Fabric NATO would work better.

[rodeo bill]

^thanks for this. It's definitely a close call- the black watches are indeed delivered on a fabric nato (polished steel come on a bracelet), but I think they're very nice on leather too. Redragon's strap is brand new, and it takes a bit of time for the leather to settle around the lugs. Mine's had a little bit longer I think, although it'll mould further with some more time. I'll try to post an update. These leather natos are the thickest option, as they have two thicknesses of leather behind the watch. There are also 2-piece straps (with no leather behind the watch) and pull-through straps (1 layer behind the watch). 

Speaking of which, I never put pictures up of these pull-through straps, which are a new style. I think they came out nicely!

[splash pitman]

l think you're keeper buckle and belt is a Grail item ! I love those PJ,s .

not a fan of the denim cuts , still you're a master of you're craft and it shows with the passion you inject to you're product .

[longshanks]

On 6/28/2018 at 8:50 AM, rodeo bill said:

 There are also 2-piece straps (with no leather behind the watch)

Do you happen to have any pics of the 2 piece straps with a GS/TP watch? I was gifted one of the 2 piece watch straps and unfortunately don't (yet) have a watch that it fits. 

[rodeo bill]

^thanks. Here you go, fried eggs dial on worn-in tan 2-piece strap:

[rodeo bill]

On 29/06/2018 at 2:07 AM, splash pitman said:

l think you're keeper buckle and belt is a Grail item ! I love those PJ,s .

not a fan of the denim cuts , still you're a master of you're craft and it shows with the passion you inject to you're product .

thanks so much pitman, really appreciate your kind words, and I'm delighted you like the keeper buckle belt! Most of the things, (including jeans cuts) are quite esoteric, so not everything's for everyone, but with such a small scale I feel like it's more interesting to stick with what makes sense to me, and follow experiments and technical opportunities, rather than try to predict what will be popular, or go for standard cuts.

[rodeo bill]

I think I mentioned a few pages back that I've been working on some Tshirts with Christopher Brown, a linocut artist who was one of my tutors at Central St Martins, and who did some Tender Tshirts when I was first starting out. These are in his name, as part of a new project called 'aT' (for about time, but also a T, geddit?!) There are other projects with other artists in the work for future, but these shirts are now in various shops in Japan, including Beams, Loftman and Diaries.

Images are taken from Chris's Alphabet of London, with the letter of the alphabet on the back.

Diaries have also commissioned a new shop bear logo and letter set from Chris :-)

[rodeo bill]

apologies for the long space between news- this is my busiest time as the next production starts to come through and various other projects take shape. More of all of that to come in the next few weeks, but in the meantime I just received some lovely product photos from Unionmade of their in-season delivery:

more soon!

[willson_rogers]

@rodeo bill Just wow, Unionmade have done a great job on this shoot. The mise-en-scene created with the crushed brown paper is fantastic. As usual I'm very excited for your next season for Tender.

 

 

Loooonnnnngggg time lurker, first time posting...

 

Woad 129's worn in rotation with either Kapital or Endrime. Worn since 2014.

The speckles on the back pocket and cuff is clay left over after a weekend at the country .

Inside of the left cuff, almost completely worn apart by after years of walking.

The selvage is fading out from being cuffed in the same position.

Finally Tender 440 Yellow Ochre Dyed Wool Calico, Endrime vest, Kaptial nogari and Blue Trick japan cable knit indigo beanie.

 

More soon....

[rodeo bill]

^fantastic! thank you so much for posting these, really appreciate it. I love the leg twist, pocket/yoke fades, and the faded selvage on your jeans. Great selection of collars, too :-)

[willson_rogers]

@rodeo bill Thanks so much!

Their next due to be washed around October this year so they should be looking very nice and loved by then.

 

So much character; with only small amounts of verdigris remaining in the eyes, mouth and nose.

 

I love how speckled and pitted the brass is, it reminds me of half tone printing.

[willson_rogers]

Texture. 930 Bicolore canvas jacket with Tezomeya tee.

More texture; 722 pullover in true khaki.

[willson_rogers]

This one is just beginning is journey.

[rodeo bill]

9 hours ago, willson_rogers said:

This one is just beginning is journey.

Here's a little further down the road:

And here are some boots (the car keys that were on the ring were left with the airport parking company):

Thank you so much for the photos- a lovely selection of clothes and accessories, and it's really great to know that things are being appreciate and enjoyed.

[rodeo bill]

A GS/TP watch review! in Japanese, this reviewer has also covered various Tender products in the past, and he does other really nice things too.

[Hendsch]

Update on my wattle 129s:

[rodeo bill]

outstanding! among the best I've ever seen, and I've really enjoyed seeing your posts as they've evolved.

I've just been working on some updates to Tender Stores (live now, with a lot more making information, season photoshoots, and different ways of sorting) and digging through some old pictures. Here's the very first pair of 132s (note the shortlived pencil pocket!):

Edited August 28, 2018 by rodeo bill

[chambo2008]

Really love this stuff, although I don't think I could pull it off personally, but hats of to you, amazing products!!

[willson_rogers]

@Hendsch  Amazing!