Tender Co. Denim

[rodeo bill]

Thank you Cal! Really appreciate it. The ecru jackets are being sewn at the moment. I'll have stock available, and in the US they'll be at Unionmade/Mill. Delivery should be around the end of the month, but I'm sure if you contact them they'd be happy to let you know when they receive their stock. Please just email me if you need any more information.

Edited March 12, 2018 by rodeo bill

[MJF9]

Logwood 130s - fantastic jeans, sadly too big for me and now on Grailed...

[Graytrain]

Hey William, I love this jacket you posted. What is it and where is it going to be carried? 

Edited March 16, 2018 by Graytrain

[Mvk190]

Coming soon to The Trestle Shop! 

[MJF9]

^ very nice... looks a like FHUTT collaboration again...

[julian-wolf]

On 3/10/2018 at 9:59 AM, julian-wolf said:

Four pairs of socks came in the mail yesterday, and they're just what I was hoping for! The weight + feel of the cotton / wool pair, in particular, is really great.

I have a question about how these may react to hot water. Two of the pairs I decided on (one mohair and one alpaca) are undyed, and I'm hoping to dye one or both pairs (partly to be able to tell them apart, but mostly just for a fun project). I have some minimal experience using natural dyes, but mostly with silks, for which I haven't had to worry about matting or felting or any of that. Are there any extra precautions that can be taken when dyeing these to prevent bad outcomes? Or would you recommend avoiding it completely for the sake of the socks, given that I'm not very experienced? I'm not too worried about splotchy coloration or any of that since I'm the only one who will ever really see them, but I do want to make sure I don't damage the fibers.

Bumping this, as I think it got lost at the end of the previous page

@rodeo bill, any recommendations re: sock dyeing?

[rodeo bill]

On 16/03/2018 at 9:00 PM, Graytrain said:

Hey William, I love this jacket you posted. What is it and where is it going to be carried? 

thank you! Sorry for the delay responding. This is the same Type 930 Double Front Butterfly Jacket, that's available already in some other fabrics, but this version is made up in cotton/jute sawtooth twill. I'll have them on the Stores in a couple of weeks, and they'll also be at Mutiny NY, Neighbour Vancouver, Meadow Malmö, and Always In Colour Exeter. I'll put up some detail shots as soon as stock comes in from the factory. I do actually have one piece already, pre-production, in a size 3- please email me if you're interested and need measurements etc.

18 hours ago, MJF9 said:

^ very nice... looks a like FHUTT collaboration again...

That's right! Thank you very much Morten- I'm looking forward to opening these up and getting them online later in the week. More soon.

12 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Bumping this, as I think it got lost at the end of the previous page

@rodeo bill, any recommendations re: sock dyeing?

I'm so sorry Julian, you're absolutely right I missed this at the bottom of the last page. I'm so pleased you'r happy with your socks. The two pairs you have which are Unborn are fresh off the knitting machine- you'll even be able to see the loose stitches of water soluble yarn at the tops, which will dissolve and disappear with the first wash. They'll also shrink down to size, to fit the same as the two dyed pairs your have. Your dyed pairs were dyed quite hot and tumble dried, so you don't really need to worry about how hot you dye the ecru pairs- they won't shrink further than the dyed pairs.

As far as dyeing goes, they should be relatively simple, especially if you're not too worried about getting an even colour. Wool fibres (eg these mohair and alpaca) tend to dye more easily than cotton, so you should get a decent result. You may find that the alpaca dyes a bit more deeply than the mohair- I think this is because mohair is a smoother, shinier, less fluffy fibre than alpaca, so the dye sticks to it less readily, but I think you'll get a decent result with both. Let us know how you get on!

[julian-wolf]

Great, thanks so much for the info! I've noticed plenty of yarrow growing nearby here that I've yet to put to use; I think I may pick a few bunches one of these weekends and try for a nice khaki green for the alpaca. I'll be sure to check back in with some before + after shots of how it goes.

[rodeo bill]

On 18/03/2018 at 2:06 PM, Mvk190 said:

Coming soon to The Trestle Shop! 

I've just unpacked these, and Morten's really outdone himself. These have come out really special- thank you Morten! There are two versions, one a restock of navy elastic, and one with front straps folded up from the indigo bicolore canvas woven for new season jackets:

Edited March 20, 2018 by rodeo bill

[Filament]

cotton/jute sawtooth twill 

 

Are you going to have this dyed in copper verdigris, cause that would be my dream spring jacket ....

[rodeo bill]

4 hours ago, Filament said:

cotton/jute sawtooth twill 

 

Are you going to have this dyed in copper verdigris, cause that would be my dream spring jacket ....

Yes! This makeup has been ordered by The Bureau Belfast and should be with them around in the next couple of weeks- please check with them directly for availability. The colour comes out really nicely on the jute.

[daltmeyer]

I received a very special delivery yesterday. It contained a pair of those Collaboration FHUTT Suspenders pictured a couple posts up, along with the Unborn Collaboration FHUTT Type 133 High-Back Trews. I washed them on gentle cycle and put them on wet and wore them dry so the waist wouldnt shrink too much. The result is a most excellent fit. Perfect really.

Heres a couple shots after:

 

Edited March 27, 2018 by daltmeyer

[daltmeyer]

I also received a pair of Style 128 Straight Jeans. Slim, straight, low rise fit. Another excellent fit. Size 6 like all my Tender pants. No Snobs Thumb Pocket! Ill manage somehow!

[rodeo bill]

^great fits! thanks so much for posting, and I'm so pleased these have worked out- you've got a lovely collection coming together!

Here's a little project I've been putting together over the last couple of months. It's a display-style clock for GSTP, made from a Smith's clock which had a broken electric movement and a very rusty dial and hands, but a lovely intact bakelite case and glass. Here it is reborn:

the dial and hands were both hand painted by the canal boat painter who does wallets and belts for the Trestle Shop, as well as some graphics for prints a few years ago. Both were painted on the back of the original, so nothing's been taken away- I could flip over the dial and hands and they'd be as Smith's intended!

The stepped bakelite case is really lovely:

The movement I had which would fit the hours hand wasn't right for the minutes. I may drill out the minutes hand at some point, but for now I'm using it as a one-hander. I rather like how it makes it look like a scientific instrument, or perhaps a regulator clock, while at the same time being more relaxing to look at than a two-hander clock.

 

[JDelage]

(Wrong thread...)

Edited April 3, 2018 by JDelage

[rodeo bill]

Thanks! Hmm... Very good to know. I'd love to do a desk/bedside clock, for Tender or GS/TP, but haven't yet found a way to sort out the machining and assembly in a practical way. I'll certainly let you know if anything comes of it.

 

Back to clothes for now. This is a special pullover made for the Stores from the same indigo cotton yarn used for this season's cardigan and hat (there are also scarves for the Stores). It's the yarn used for Tender selvage denim, and throughout this Spring/Summer collection it's gone into various other fabrics. The yarn itself is ringspun in Japan from US cotton, and is dipped 25 times in indigo, which is an unusually high number, and gives the denim and other fabrics an almost black appearnce (and we now know is the main reason for the marbling on Tender denim jeans). It's not been preshrunk or skewed, and here's where things get interesting:

This yarn isn't intended for knitting, but it's such a gorgeous colour and texture that I wanted to see how it would come out. Because the yarn hasn't been shrunk the garment needs to be washed before is finished. The way knitwear is put together you knit and join the body and sleeves without a head hole, then you wash it, together with some spare rib for the neck binding, cut out a heaf hole and link on the neck binding.

After the garment was initially washed it had twisted so severely that the centre of the top was way over by the left shoulder. Rather than cutting the hole there, it's been cut at the actual centre of the garment, which puts the seams asymmetric:

Here's how twisted the hem is:

and the sleeve:

This particular garment is my own and I've been wearing and washing it every couple of days for a couple of months, hence the start of some fading around the seams (it's labelled a 1 but is actually more like a 2).

The nice thing is when you're wearing it it's both comfortable and very under-the-radar:

You wouldn't notice the asymmetry at all unless you look closely at the seams, especially as the yarn moulds itself so nicely to the wearer.

All this goes for the cardigan version too- at first the buttons hang at an angle, but as it softens in they settle down to a more natural drape.

These are perhaps my favourite development for this season - they're simple and wearable but really make the most of some very special yarn.

[discop]

Oh man, that is beautiful!

[redragon]

Out of fresh wash...

Logwood fabric never fail to amaze me!

[CAL415]

On 3/23/2018 at 11:07 PM, rodeo bill said:

Yes! This makeup has been ordered by The Bureau Belfast and should be with them around in the next couple of weeks- please check with them directly for availability. The colour comes out really nicely on the jute.

Is this in reference to the verdigris jacket currently on their site, or will there be more of a mint colored one similar to the past wallaby? 

[rodeo bill]

5 hours ago, CAL415 said:

Is this in reference to the verdigris jacket currently on their site, or will there be more of a mint colored one similar to the past wallaby? 

Sorry for the confusion, the exact jacket you like (from the above photo) is being seen at the moment, and will be dyed next week. It should be available at The Bureau shortly sheet that.

[dau]

On 30.03.2018 at 4:43 PM, rodeo bill said:

 

Back to clothes for now. This is a special pullover made for the Stores from the same indigo cotton yarn used for this season's cardigan and hat (there are also scarves for the Stores).

 

when this one will be available? thanx

[Hendsch]

Here are my 129 wattles just a bit over a year and thoroughly worn and repaired. They are mostly my climbing pants these days so they see the washing machine a ton.

This is probably the best representation of their true color:

Edited April 4, 2018 by Hendsch

[rodeo bill]

On 04/04/2018 at 1:27 PM, dau said:

 

when this one will be available? thanx

Thanks - available now here: https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-743-wool-pattern-pullover/?

Hendsch, astounding!

[CAL415]

I got the butterfly shacket in verdigris today. I really like the weight of the material, and the color is very unique. Thanks again for your help, William! 

[Foxy2]

received the cardigan the other day...

amazing piece & seriously twisted - haven't had the time to fit it or put it through another delicate wash/soak...

[rodeo bill]

great fit CAL! Thank you for posting. 

Here's a really nice sketch found on Instagram from Pheb in Japan, which explains the construction:

)

[rodeo bill]

Foxy, I'm so pleased this has gone to such a good home, looking forward to updates in due course!

Edited April 19, 2018 by rodeo bill

[Foxy2]

I'm sure it will be a pleasant journey!

It's difficult to get the blue right with an iPhone - too saturated. (The second pic of the previous post is probably most accurate.)

This shows how twisted things are:

Actually, it was supposed to be a wrap-around!
Wearing it unbuttoned might turn out to be something to get used to...

My fingers turned blue just by looking at it!

Edited April 28, 2018 by Foxy2

[rodeo bill]

19 hours ago, CAL415 said:

I got the butterfly shacket in verdigris today. I really like the weight of the material, and the color is very unique. Thanks again for your help, William! 

Thanks again for this. Here's a sketch with the details, if anyone else is interested in how this piece is put together. I have a few versions in stock, now up on the Stores

[rodeo bill]

While we're at it, here are some Type 112 fitted pyjama trousers, a more fitted, evolved version of previous pyjama trousers: