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Tender Co. Denim

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Today wearing the mirror panel pullover, green lambswool version.

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^^Looks great on your snchz! Thank you :)

Now for something completely different.. Here's the latest collaboration with For Holding Up The Trousers, and one that I'm particularly excited about- I think it really nails the collaborative part of how Morten and I can work together. The Full Fold belt is is the first plain leather belt we've made, in lovely unstained Swedish vegetable-tanned leather, a simple 1¼” wide with a FHUTT branded sand-cast brass buckle.

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The interesting part is how it's put together. Usually a section of the belt is thinned at the buckle end, wrapped over the buckle, and fastened down behind the buckle, either with tacked stitches on the side (like mainline Tender belts) or with screws or rivets, or sewn all round the overlapping section. This means the leather is cut to pretty much the same length as the finished belt.

The Full Fold belt, by contrast, is cut to double the length of the finished piece:

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The entire length gets marked along the edges, and punched point by point with an awl:

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A long slot is punched out from the very centre of the strap (see where we're going with this?):

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The strap is folded in half, over the buckle, so there's no overlapping section but the entire belt is double thickness, hand sewn all the way round:

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To put that in numbers, that means a 35" belt has about 71" of stitching (each side and one end), and at about 7 stitches/inch that's 497 stitches, or around two hours of hand stitching alone, per belt (thanks Morten!)

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The section where the holes will be punched gets a few dabs of glue to hold the leather in place:

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and the holes are punched through:

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I'm so happy with how these have come out!

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^ Those look really great! Do you have a rough measure of how thick the double-layer leather is? It's hard to say from the photos whether they're more in the 3mm or the 5mm range

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1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

^ Those look really great! Do you have a rough measure of how thick the double-layer leather is? It's hard to say from the photos whether they're more in the 3mm or the 5mm range

Thanks Julian! The total thickness is more like 3mm- the idea was to make something a little less heavy than the mainline Tender belts, so this is also a touch narrower, at 1¼” wide. You could definitely wear these with heavy denim, but they'd also work very nicely with slimmer/lighter jeans, or with other trousers. I hope this helps!

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Thanks! Those are just around the dimensions I'm searching for in a belt—I'll look forward to these showing up on the web shop.

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Always in Colour, in Exeter, just put up a lovely piece by Louise Honey based on an interview/visit over a day around Stroud a couple of weeks ago. Here if anyone fancies a read. Great photos by Jay Bing, too, shot on medium format film. 

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^thanks so much Merzbot! That jacket is actually a Sleeper BR-1 jacket, in green broken twill- it's a favourite personally, but I'm afraid I don't have stock of this exact version any more. The chlorophyll jacket in the picture above is a 970 Driver's Jacket, with overlapping shoulders, also long gone I'm afraid.

Here's something else from the same Always In Colour shoot, now in stock. These are a take on Breton pullovers, in stripes of indigo cotton denim weaving yarn and lambswool:

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As these are worn, they'll change differently- the indigo bleeds onto the ecru wool, which makes the edges fuzzy and tints the white to pale blue. The navy version, by contrast, starts off a very uniform colour but as the indigo fades will become more noticeably striped.

To wear, though, the first thing you notice is the lovely bumpy texture between the stripe sections- the cotton shrinks more than the wool when the garments are rinsed after knitting, so it dips in, while the soft wool stands out in ridges. I have a prototype of the ecru striped version for myself and I've really been enjoying it over the last few weeks. Worn updates to follow, but in the meantime here are some closeups:

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molleton 129 since nov. 2016. striped hook buckle belt.

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the front pocket bag fabric is the same molleton denim used on the rest of the jeans, and has the selvedge as well, but i forgot to pull it out completely to show it. was quite surprised to see it has retained its indigo superwell, in my memory that's pretty much how inky purpley blue it was when new:

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Edited by oomslokop

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also did a talk celebrating 25th anniversary of morrissey's vauxhall and i in kios ojo keos, cool cafe bookshop in jakarta suburbia. white dude is steve lillywhite, the album's producer (also did the pogues, psychedelic furs, ubloody2), his day job now is selling cds for kfc indonesia:D didn't realise it at that time, but i was wearing all tender (including no viz belt):

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pic by muhammad asranur

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Anyone know where I could find the type 431 shirt in Prussian blue carding cloth? Looking for a size 4 or 5 most likely. 

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Here are some bonuses of normal (non molleton) denim jeans, showing the selvage pocket bag, and again the difference in tone between inside and out:IMG_7196.thumb.JPG.8ae9fff51dfaf2e79460b00b242a6c3a.JPGIMG_7197.thumb.JPG.0357ef662bd97fa26e57de2f4e724d50.JPG

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@oomslokop

Very nice! Pretty cool that the stitching is still holding strong.

Mine is bursting on the left & right yoke. :unsure2:

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Edited by redragon
Add photo.

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18 hours ago, oomslokop said:

also did a talk celebrating 25th anniversary of morrissey's vauxhall and i in kios ojo keos, cool cafe bookshop in jakarta suburbia. white dude is steve lillywhite, the album's producer (also did the pogues, psychedelic furs, ubloody2), his day job now is selling cds for kfc indonesia:D didn't realise it at that time, but i was wearing all tender (including no viz belt):

47385492372_16d33092c4_c.jpg

pic by muhammad asranur

Umm the man on the right is the vocalist from straightanswerjkt? Btw, nice shirt! Lovely jobriath shirt! Mine has gone a year ago :(

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