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Sugar Cane Denim


allacedout

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^^ I think the length is pretty good at the moment - hem it and I think the jeans would be too short after a decent wash.

Maybe wait a while, at least until the first couple of washes, before you make a decision to hem or not?

Take it from someone who's had to pass on 3 pairs of jeans due to over-hemming before finally learning his lesson.

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I'm cuffing on the inside (approx. 9 cm).

If I wait until I wash them a couple of times (In say a year or so) the point were the denim fold to the inward cuff will have faded a lot. Won't that look strange? I thought if I have them hemmed now and, when they need a wash in some distant future I'll just wash them cold every time. Or will they still shrink a lot in a cold wash?

In the end I would like them to be maybe 2-3 cm shorter than they are now.

Edited by Crat
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^ Oh, I didn't realize you had 9 cm tucked in.

I usually like to play it safe and wash them up front, then get it hemmed.

Otherwise I'd have it hemmed assuming a 3.5" final shrinkage in the inseam for unsanforised denim, just to be on the safe side.

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I'm not familiar with the fabric on your pair, but most of SC's Satobiki denims tend to gradually shrink up over the first few washes, and all seem to hold a lot of indigo.

My opinion is that you shouldn't have to worry about excessive indigo loss with washing - after all, it's not like we're wearing Nudies or APCs ;)

That said, I think going by the assumption of a 3.5" final shrink from the original inseam will work for you if you want it hemmed right now - just get it re-hemmed later on if you think the inseam is still too long.

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Won't I still get strange 'stripes' on the places where the first hems were or where the current fold is if I leave them as they are now?

Should I just throw them in the washing machine once now and then have them hemmed?

Edited by Crat
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Yep, if you continue folding them inwards you'll get a ring of fading - though, it is what it is, your denim wears according to how you use it...

If you're re-hemming later on, you'd probably only do so if the cuff is more than an couple of cm too long, and thus the wear & tear on the old hem would be discarded with the re-hemming.

The way I see it, unless you embrace cuffing, you either hem it now knowing that there's a risk of the result not being "perfect" in the long run, or you get as much shrinkage out as possible before hemming.

Wabi-sabi; nothing is perfect :)

Pick whichever way you feel most comfortable with and do it; don't let small things like this detract from your enjoyment of this hobby.

Edited by mikecch
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It's these things that make me enjoy raw denim, don't worry :) This is my first pair of 'good' raw jeans though.

So it would be ok to through them in the washing machine once to get rid of more shrinkage and then have them hemmed?

40 degrees Celsius?

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Sounds like a good way to go if you're open to the idea of machine washing or washing early on!

30 to 40 degrees Celsius sounds about right, just get a bit of agitation going, and remember to wash them inside-out - preferably wrapped with an old bath towel or two - and take them out before the spin-dry cycle :)

Apply animal oil to the patch after washing when the leather is still wet.

Especially with the ostrich crown leather, it's special not just because of the pores but because of it's unique, oily texture...you'd probably want to preserve that feel by keeping plenty of oils in the leather.

If you're worried about losing contrast in your fades just apply a bit of starch to the honeycombing/whiskering areas once in a while.

Edited by mikecch
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So I put my jeans inside the washing machine, inside out and wrapped in towel.

closed the door.

I just couldn't press the 'on' button :unsure2:

ended up taking them out again and shortening the inside hem by 3cm thus lengthening the jeans.

I'll just have to risk it, but they should be long enough now. .

Thanks for all the advice though!

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^seems you got the SExSC02. did you get the raw measurement of the inseam? currently, mine is @34 = 5x hot/warm soaked. just do the math & factor in the shrinkage [ie, add the difference] to your desired length when you hem__ fairly simple, right?!

Edited by BrownMetallic
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So here's my mystery pre-war pair, tagged "521-M41702"

nOJHt.jpg

i9OcE.jpg

By far the loosest cut and widest hem of any jeans I own -- but a nice change-of-pace from always wearing slim-slim-slim stuff. Great detailing, too -- exposed rivets, old arcs, suspender buttons and cinchback.

I still don't really know anything about the model, though, so if you can give any insight... it'd be welcomed.

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i don't know, but all that i can say is that they will grow on you if you let them. my suggestion is throw on a white tee, some suspenders with those JPs and you'll be looking cool all summer long!

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IMG_0165.jpg

sc1947 worn here and there for almost 2 years.

Those canes look fantastic Erk! Good to see what a pair of earlier 47's will look like in time.

I've just put mine through a machine wash at 40 deg celsius, and although they are a little long, will hopefully be my main wearers.

Love yours teamed up with the 70505. Cant wait for any further (detailed) pics you may throw up!

.

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Wont I lose too much indigo? I gotta get my fades :)

I gave them a long, very hot soak.

If you soaked them there is no need to throw them in the washer. The hot soak should take care of the first major shrinkage. I own the same pair and while there was a good amount of shortening in length I found the thigh was where i noticed the most shrinkage.

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Yup, means you should soak em if you haven't yet.

I know I love a pair of jeans when I want another pair before the current pair is dead. I freakin' love the Hawaiis... I'm so tempted to track down another pair (or Okinawas) and just set them aside for the future.

6668140847_9fd22da4d1.jpg

6668141145_f91effc851.jpg

Will definitely soak the jeans after this.

What size of hawaiis that you wearing? perfect fit. Is it the same cut as 47?

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I try other denim, but I keep coming back to Sugar Cane. The cuts are more authentic and the denim is much more interesting. I, too, had the LVCs, and there's no comparison in my opinion. I found the denim in the LVC's to be thin and the weave to be boring. I also tried to make myself get into I+W because they are a local company, but I didn't care for the cuts and, again, the denim is thin and the weave is boring.

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