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Sugar Cane Denim

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They are probably the pre-distressed hard washed version. This would have been done as the final stage of the manufacturing process before they were sent to the retailer for onward sale.

The green tab, as you mention, does indicate a pre-lawsuit pair. Interestingly they have no (hair-on-hide) patch.

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SC11159

Down Vest.

I enquired about this item on here a month back and there were no first hand responses as well as a shared concern about the fact it was produced in China.

I used Buyee to pick up a “used” XL from Yahoo.

My opinion is that this is a very well made down vest and I would say equal to the Rocky Mountain Featherbed version from Jackson,WY and the SC is 1/3 the price (Although I can find no info on the loft source for either). 

Like most US consumers, I am often skeptical of MiC but as BMW has long proved with their Chinese vs Austrian bikes, superior quality is 100% dependent on strong QC/QA and SC obviously did this with these vests. For example, the leather backing on the snaps and the excellent quality of the leather yoke and shell material.

 

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Edited by Pedro

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Thanks for the photos. Do you have any first-hand experience with Rocky Mountain Featherbed on which you’re basing that comparison? (They’re not based in Wyoming, and they haven’t been for many decades.)

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Thats correct. RMF traces its origins to 1960’s Jackson Hole, WY and went belly up in the ‘80s and has now been resurrected...as we all know. 

Since they continue to have a collar label which says Jackson Hole, WY and not their current place of manufacture, I identified them in the way they have chosen to identify themselves.;-)

Yes, in the last 2 weeks I have laid hands on a single RMF vest of recent construction that a “Trusto” was wearing in Crested Butte and I have now inspected two second hand SC vests of similar design. I have also reviewed no less than 100 photos of each brand both new and second hand.

I am not sure how many of the posters who critiqued the SC version and gave accolades to the RMF version have laid hands on either? What were they basing their opinion on? Simply the £500 pricetag? Or the MiC?

As we know, SC has a great reputation for constructing high quality clothing items and is even chosen by MF and the parent Toyo has several other clothing lines that also produce quality wear. I just wanted to let interested readers know that the down vest upholds these standards even though MiC, which was a concern of mine as well. The vest I bought second hand is easily a few years old but is holding up quite well with no stitching coming loose or leather surface deteriorating or even the down losing its loft quality. The zipper and snaps still function smoothly. 

Cheers

 

Edited by Pedro

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Thanks for the added context.

For what it’s worth, I don’t think folks have generally been questioning SC’s quality control, MiC or otherwise. My personal concern with their MiC outerwear, which seems to be a common one, is in regard to materials sourcing. General distaste for labor outsourcing aside, a well-made down vest is made much less appealing by a potential for low-quality down. I’ll be interested to hear from you about how it does in the cold, and how it continues to hold up down the line. It might be a great vest, but without more info it still feels like a gamble, even knowing that it appears to be put together well.

Edited by julian-wolf

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I don't know anything about SC labor practices in China but that is certainly a valid concern. 

Yes, the down source is important and I do wish I could have found some info from either RMF or SC on this. I did see a single piece of down poking out a seam and so I pulled it all the way out. It is a white down and I think Goose based on numerous internet photos from bulk down suppliers. Most vests and jackets are 600-700 and 80/20 down/feather unless they are performance oriented such as TNF Nupse or serious mountaineering oriented which are 800+fill. For myself, in TX & NM, a vest is sufficient and if its actually cold out then I wear a jacket with sleeves. Here in CO for the holiday, I am wearing a vintage Norsewear wool sweater with this down vest and its toasty. 

What I prefer about the SC compared to similar second hand RMF I am seeing online is the SC shell is 60/40 cotton/polyester and it fades. I have attached a photo I found online to give an idea of the fade potential. Some may not like this and the RMF is 100% nylon and is probably more colorfast. 

My concern with any vest/jacket with the leather yoke is the quality of the leather. Ofcourse, its not likely to find a full grain since it would be too stiff, so a top grain would be ideal. The worst option would be the lower grade "genuine", IMO, which is typically synonymous with a "stamped" texture. I have attached a photo of the SC leather for your opinions.  I wish I had snapped a photo of the RMF I saw but the tag states only "genuine" leather. (If a leather is "Full" or "Top" then it is advertised as such.)

I certainly have nothing against the RMF...except the price and I would rather spend the difference in cost on a new pair of SC or MF jeans.

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Edited by Pedro

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No, that’s the standard patch for the lot 100

Feels like we just had this conversation a page ago

edit: Maybe “no” is the wrong answer in as much as the 100 was a precursor to the 401, but you get the idea

Edited by julian-wolf

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just picking up some wabash pants from second market and its run small on me a bit, thinking to sell it again :rolleyes:DSC_0806.thumb.JPG.ffef7304754db5492341f793e320b905.JPGDSC_0804.thumb.JPG.d23bce13c6223c2315e2abca256a987e.JPGDSC_0803.thumb.JPG.2ffe45b7d4ee1005de4ccf23710561ae.JPG

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I'd like that fabric in a shirt...

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This Grailed seller has some good prices on SC and other brands in 32W-33W. 

The shipping is kinda high since she is located in GB but you could possibly combine shipping if buying more than one item.

https://grailed.app.link/MtBJf6mC22

2B894B51-9A4E-44A7-BA65-9EB782017743.jpeg

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Kiya posted these a couple of days ago, 55th anniversary Edo Ai jeans from SC. Nice to see the Edo Ai around again. 

 

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Posted (edited)

Jeez, just based on the top block in that photo the cut looks like it’s gonna be terrible. Better something than nothing, all things considered, but still sad to see them going this route for jeans with as much history / lore as their natural-dyed line of 15 years ago.

Edited by julian-wolf

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25 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

Jeez, just based on the top block in that photo the cut looks like it’s gonna be terrible. Better something than nothing, all things considered, but still sad to see them going this route for jeans with as much history / lore as their natural-dyed line of 15 years ago.

Genuinely curious how you can make the assumption of the fit from those limited photos. 

I'm not seeing much of anything besides some details from those lol.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Broark said:

Kiya posted these a couple of days ago, 55th anniversary Edo Ai jeans from SC. Nice to see the Edo Ai around again. 

Any more info, Broark; availability, 50/50 or 100% cotton? I didn’t see any info on Self Edge. Thanks  ah, just found out, will be available this Spring

 

Edited by lance

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I’m hoping they’re not too slim. Fabric and pocket bags look awesome. 

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@SmokeStackLightning, from the first photo (in particular, how little the seat seam angles out towards the seat) it's clear that there's very little hip and thigh room. Likewise, the top block looks pretty square, without any appreciable taper in towards the waist. The photo could just be taken weirdly—I'd love to be proven wrong—but it honestly looks even tighter up top than the Type III.

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Posted (edited)

I finally scrolled across the photos for more info. Looks like 100% cotton, glad for that. Tag reads W34, L30, sure hope they make a longer inseam for the Western market.

Edited by lance

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My guess would be that these are just a sample, and the production run will have longer inseams. Especially with SE carrying the jeans.

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Likely you’re right, Broark, sure hope so as I’d hate to have to pass them up

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a few of shirt collections, about to get some more this year :D

EMd7gUbVAAAp7H0.jpg

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, lance said:

Looks like 100% cotton, glad for that.

Kiya says 30/70 sugarcane/cotton in the comments. Sorry.

Edited by Spiraltoy

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the correct info, Spiraltoy. Were the original Edo Ai part sugarcane too?

Edited by lance

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Posted (edited)

The originals (and all of the other SC40X00 model numbers) were 50/50 blends 

Out of curiosity, what about the sugar cane blends do you dislike?

Edited by julian-wolf

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Posted (edited)

Hey julian-wolf, I have a well worn pair of Oki Rainbows posted on page 242 which I like very much. The evo has been great and watching them evolve a real kick; the plant dyed colors are subtle rather than “in your face”. But at this stage, the denim has become somewhat limp and lifeless all be it very comfortable. They’re just not a pair I  turn to much anymore, unlike other worn denim. Likely just a personal quirk. Since these are 70/30 rather than 50/50, the well worn denim may be more to my liking. Hope to get the opportunity to try them out!

Edited by lance

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Posted (edited)

@lance

Beautiful pair of Rainbows on 242.

I would love to find a pair of these in 34W or 36W.

cheers

Edited by Pedro

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