Iron Heart Jeans

[Bigyen]

I picked up a pair of the Paper Denim and I'm curious about people's experience with the 666 fit. Everything is perfect about the fit except I feel my range of mobility is limited as there is a tightness in the crotch. For example there would be some resistance trying to walk up steps 2 at a time. Is this normal with this cut and will they loosen with wear? I'm on wear three and already worried that down the road there's an epic crotch blow out a coming.

[Max Power]

IMO the 666 has a pretty narrow top block, would be too tight for me anyway. As the denim is sanforized there should be some stretch in it and the denim is claimed to be super strong, so maybe you'll be fine.

[1fookntitefd]

I can't speak for the paper denim but the 666s loosens and softens up nicely after a few weeks of wear. When I first got my pair, I thought the top block was very snug but after a week or two, it is perfectly comfty.

[JDelage]

On 2/8/2017 at 8:25 AM, Niro said:

I would actually like to hear of someone who thinks negatively of their products

I like IH, it's the most represented maker in my closet. With this said, I have 3 drawbacks to contribute:

1) They only have one 1950's style cut, the 1955s, in only one version. If you lift, it's the only comfortable cut from the get go. I'm trying to tame a pair of 634 right now, and I'm not sure it's gonna workout.

2) The shirts are on the boxy side. If you have a slightly muscular upper body and a sub-18% body fat you will have a lot of room in the trunk.

3) The shirt snap buttons feel cheap and mass produced to me.

[spitfiredealer]

Gotta disagree on points 2 & 3. 

[ShootThePier]

2&3 are the opposite of my experience. Out of 12 shirts, none of mine are boxy.

The buttons/snaps are well fastened/attached, and as good, or better than my MF, TFH, and Samurai.

[1fookntitefd]

I actually think that IH shirts are more fitted and less boxy than other brands like TFH maybe it's the way my (fat ass) body is shaped. As far as brands go, I've owned jeans and shirts from IH, Samurai, TFH, TSG and IH is the only brand that I have consistently purchased more and more products from. In fact, IH is the only brand manufacturer that I bought two pairs of jeans from. Even though you probably can't get sick fadez from IH Jeans like you could from other brands like TFH or Samurai (unless you are Nizzle or Max Power) I think that the construction quality of all of their products is second to none.

[JDelage]

Interesting. Let me edit this:

2 hours ago, JDelage said:

3) The shirt snap buttons feel cheap and mass produced to me.

with that: The shirt snap buttons are plasticky when (some) other brands offer much more interesting materials (metal or MOP for example).

I stand by what I said wrt shirt shapes, but obviously it depends on your body type. It's the first time I see anyone calling TFH shirts boxy. In my limited experience they have very big shoulders for a given p2p.

[Niro]

2 hours ago, JDelage said:

I like IH, it's the most represented maker in my closet. With this said, I have 3 drawbacks to contribute:

1) They only have one 1950's style cut, the 1955s, in only one version. If you lift, it's the only comfortable cut from the get go. I'm trying to tame a pair of 634 right now, and I'm not sure it's gonna workout.

2) The shirts are on the boxy side. If you have a slightly muscular upper body and a sub-18% body fat you will have a lot of room in the trunk.

3) The shirt snap buttons feel cheap and mass produced to me.

I don't think Iron Heart shirts are boxy at all. I am very slim and I love the fit of their shirts. Boxy does not look good on me at all.

Their snap buttons are really nice. I think theirs and Flat Head snap buttons are the the best. For cheap plasticky snap buttons then look at the cheap shirts on offer from mainstream brands like Dickies or Wrangler.

[JDelage]

5 hours ago, JDelage said:

2) The shirts are on the boxy side. If you have a slightly muscular upper body and a sub-18% body fat you will have a lot of room in the trunk.

OK, let me rephrase that because clearly I f'ed up what I meant to say: the shirts don't have enough of a tapper between the shoulders and the torso.

[JDelage]

2 hours ago, Niro said:

For cheap plasticky snap buttons then look at the cheap shirts on offer from mainstream brands like Dickies or Wrangler.

Obviously I'm not comparing IH with cheapo mass product clothes... I'm looking at what you can see on shirts like Indigofera or Stevenson for example.

[FeloniousMonk]

I'll just chip in on JDelage's side for the shirt shape debate, so he doesn't feel crazy here. Flat Head's western cut (not the workshirts) seems to be the only one of the main Japanese flannel cuts that tapers a decent amount from the chest downward.

Iron Heart makes consistently amazing flannels, which is why it's such a pity that their cuts don't work for me. They do seem to billow a bit at the waist if they fit at the shoulders and chest, but that's pretty standard for off-the-rack shirting and means Iron Heart probably fits most men much better.

[Max Power]

I also feel like i have to chime in against 2 and 3.

Ih makes shirts that fit me better than any other brand, including flat head. The shoulder to waist / chest ratio is perfect at least for my bodytype. 

While i agree that the old mop buttons were nicer than the current standard snaps - they never got damaged or lost their ability to hold even after years and years of wear. I think its the ih asthetic: use stuff thats serves its purpose even if its not time correct like poly threads for example.

[Cold Summer]

I would love to wear IH western shirts since they have some very nice patterns and quality, the problem is the proportion between sleeve length and chest size. In order to get a good length in the sleeves I'd need to get a Medium or Large, which are usually between 2-6 inches too big in the chest and often would barely squeak by in the sleeve and hem length. Or a Small with longer than average sleeves and hem.

It's funny to me how hard it is for me to size Japanese shirts. I can go to stores like JCrew or Allsaints and find flannels that fit me absolutely perfect in a Small or Medium, even though I don't think my proportions (really tall and thin with fairly narrow shoulders/chest) are typical at all/representative of those for whom any of these brands make their fits.

[Niro]

What's your height Cold Summer?

You sound similar body type to me, but i'm 5'10 and the length of both shirt body and sleeves are perfect for me in the small size.

I find it odd that size small for shirts in so many japanese brands have such a long body length, as average height for japanese men is around 5'7

Edited February 28, 2017 by Niro

[Cold Summer]

I'm 6'3". I need sleeves to be at least 25". I think many Japanese brands' shirts are cut to be worn tucked in, with some exceptions like Flat Head (and I guess Iron Heart.)

[Niro]

How about the UHF shirts (excluding the ones from 2015) ? They are over 25" sleeve length in size small

Maybe. I could never wear non oxford type shirts tucked in *shivers*

Edited February 28, 2017 by Niro

[itsbenhere]

I'm like you guys I think that if something is meant to be worn untucked it should be shorter (so it's not covering your ass.)

whats weird about IH is it's definitely not meant to be tucked in, but the tails are soooooooooo long. My feeling is ive got jeans to cover my ass and I wear tops to cover the torso

[ColonelAngus]

I have 1 UHF and it fits me perfectly. Dont think IH shirts are boxy at all

[Max Power]

Crayz, ih makes the longest sleeves i know. Theyre way too long at least in the latest releases for me, and i dont have short arms. Fh always was borderline short and ih at least 1 to 2" longer. The type iiis are also super long in the sleeves. 

Maybe its just a certain item you speak about but i cant think of someone whose arms would not fit the last ih releases or other brands with longer sleeves.

Edited March 1, 2017 by Max Power

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

Iron Heart has always been a bit OTT for me. Love the details and the quality is lovely, but just too western styled for my taste. Same with Flat Head.

The only thing stopping me buying a pair of IH 555 is the pocket arcs. Do they do a model without them?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Seam ripper?

[Cold Summer]

Max, I think sleeve length is not a problem for you because you wear two or three sizes bigger than me. Because my real chest size is about 38", a shirt with a 42" (or larger) measurement is just going to be way too big on me, especially since IH ones don't taper much. IH just seems to be cut way larger in the chest than most other brands. As a result Small seems like the only size that could possibly fit (and even then could be too large in the chest.) The sleeves appear to usually be 24.5" or less, and because the shoulder measurements are so small (usually under 17" on a small) that's even less length than I'd get on my other shirts with 25" sleeves. I know I have kinda weird proportions, but the fact that lots of other, accessible brands fit me fine makes me think IH shirts are just cut in a way that's not likely to work well on me.

The UHF shirts do seem like they could possibly work - will keep an eye on these for the new fall/winter collection (and Grailed, etc.)

[TheIntelligentHoodwinker]

4 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Seam ripper?

Was thinking I might do that. Although seems a shame to take a seam ripper to a new pair of £250 jeans. I like the models with the navy blue arcs though as they're a little more discrete.

[mpukas]

9 hours ago, TheIntelligentHoodwinker said:

Do they do a model without them?

some of the SExIH collab's have no arcs

[gazeboarder]

9 hours ago, TheIntelligentHoodwinker said:

Was thinking I might do that. Although seems a shame to take a seam ripper to a new pair of £250 jeans. I like the models with the navy blue arcs though as they're a little more discrete.

I think the tonal arcs look great.  I feel the IH-555 cut is very underrated.  I own the IH-555-01 and the IH-555-03's and find these some of my best slim fitting jeans.  I wear a size 36.  I'm 6'3"and weigh about 205 lbs.

[1fookntitefd]

Added the 170 to my collection. I guess this makes me an IronHeart whore (my wife thinks I'm crazy though).

[Geeman]

My only problem with the 555 is the rear rise it leaves the seat a little saggy. I'd buy another pair if they sorted that.

[Max Power]

@1fookntitefd it looks like the start of an expensive addiction. Im an expert on that topic.

Edited March 2, 2017 by Max Power

[1fookntitefd]

^ very nice! How many shirts do you own from IronHeart?