Full Count Denim Thread

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I looked at the Japanese prices for the new 30th Anniversary pairs with arcs&tabs (and a different leather for the patch): 44,000¥ is pretty ridiculous to the standard price of 26,000 ¥ for such details...

[beautiful_FrEaK]

So better buy 2nd hand...

0105 in W34 to clarify 

Edited December 5, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Flash]

One of your best fitting pairs mate 

[Bill_e_jean]

 nice pair, mate! 

[Jared_Lee]

The old 0105 is such a good middle ground fit. Mid rise, mid thigh, gentle taper. Looks great!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks guys! Yeah the 0105 is actually slimmer than I thought. Probably the soft denim that drapes easily.

[JohnM]

^ the only time b_F where I have a smaller pair than you (33 vs. 34).  Pants, that is ;-)

[edwardlj]

hello. i have heard people say the threads on Full Count jeans are weak and will loose in a short time. Do you know if the new ones (no-arc, tab) improve on that? i want to buy a pair of new 1101 one wash. and i have a pair of TCB 50s regular, dunno how they compare to new Full Count, since they all use similar fabric. 

thanks a lot

[beautiful_FrEaK]

5 hours ago, JohnM said:

^ the only time b_F where I have a smaller pair than you (33 vs. 34).  Pants, that is ;-)

Strange indeed. I had a 1101 in W33 when I was bigger (like 7-10 kg or so) and they worked.

Maybe this aboves just shows how much jeans can shrink over their lifetime.

Edited December 6, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Topnotcher]

14 hours ago, edwardlj said:

hello. i have heard people say the threads on Full Count jeans are weak and will loose in a short time. Do you know if the new ones (no-arc, tab) improve on that? i want to buy a pair of new 1101 one wash. and i have a pair of TCB 50s regular, dunno how they compare to new Full Count, since they all use similar fabric. 

thanks a lot

I have this new 1101xx and the threads are fine .The leg seam could be tighter,i hate this when i pull the denim and i see the seam ,hope you understand what i mean.

The Tcb denim is different,more Levis-like, different fading and 13,5 oz vs 15 oz FC denim. 

[edwardlj]

10 hours ago, Topnotcher said:

I have this new 1101xx and the threads are fine .The leg seam could be tighter,i hate this when i pull the denim and i see the seam ,hope you understand what i mean.

The Tcb denim is different,more Levis-like, different fading and 13,5 oz vs 15 oz FC denim. 

thank you. and i bought the new 1101w 13.75oz, and i compare the inner chain stitch at the back yoke, and the crotch area, to that of TCB 50s regular, they are far too different stitch. The reason i am comparing these two pair of denim is they are both replica of the "XX" period and use Zimbabwe cotton fabric from Shinya Mills.

 

Edited December 7, 2022 by edwardlj

[edwardlj]

by the way, a full interview regarding the changes Miki san has made besides "the absence of arcs and tab" in 2019. i use google-translate. pls view below link: https://ogbros.jp/fullcount_new_jeans/ ,  according to this article, the new model is closer to the original 501.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

This could very well be. The older FC jeans are/were quite colourful in the choice of threads (which I really like[d]) and have quite a high SPI. So the new ones have less different thread colours and the sewing looks like a lower SPI.

 

Edit: that link you posted is really interesting. Thanks for that!

Edited December 7, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[edwardlj]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

This could very well be. The older FC jeans are/were quite colourful in the choice of threads (which I really like[d]) and have quite a high SPI. So the new ones have less different thread colours and the sewing looks like a lower SPI.

what's SPI stand for in this context?  i will take some pictures of the inseam stitch from both TCB50s and new FC1101w later.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Stitches Per Inch

[edwardlj]

17 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Stitches Per Inch

got it!  

 

 

19 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

This could very well be. The older FC jeans are/were quite colourful in the choice of threads (which I really like[d]) and have quite a high SPI. So the new ones have less different thread colours and the sewing looks like a lower SPI.

 

Edit: that link you posted is really interesting. Thanks for that!

the new model changed everything but the Zimbabwe Cotton fabric. and the new cut is a very special shape at the back waist band, it is like a big spoon shape, very comfy. and the size of the back pockets look good. except that the inseams look weak.

Edited December 8, 2022 by edwardlj

[JohnM]

Thanks for the link edwardlj -- interesting article.

I've always liked Full Count, especially the older 1101 and 0105 -- very soft, comfortable denim and nice fits.

And much respect to Mikiharu Tsujita for staying interested and committed to making jeans and tweaking his designs.  I think he has a point about the significantly higher back rise relative to the front -- makes for a comfortable fit.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The denim Full Count uses is indeed a treat. I really wonder why there was not such a detailed information about the changes of the models on FC's own homepage (or was it and I missed it?!).

How many people will find this interview where Miki-san explains everything to why he changed the cuts and the sewing and all?

 

Edit:

And while we are at it, FC is about to release a new silhouette for their 30th anniversary which seems to be planned as a permanent style, the 1103. In between the 1101 and 1108.

https://fullcount.co/collections/pre-order-2022-a-w/products/1103-clean-straight-denim

Edited December 8, 2022 by beautiful_FrEaK

[indigoeagle]

Yes, the interview is highly interesting.
Gives one insight into that desicion and into Tsujita's philosophy, also his determination- after all, when he asked his employees and good customers no one really seemed to like his plan.

 

[Talan]

53 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Yes, the interview is highly interesting.
Gives one insight into that desicion and into Tsujita's philosophy, also his determination- after all, when he asked his employees and good customers no one really seemed to like his plan.

 

And while marketing theory dictates otherwise, true creators never need to go along with customers. Customers express the established, unchanging demand of yesterday; creators seek and follow the path of change.

[Maynard Friedman]

I think most of the folks who post on this thread still prefer the old models with arcs and tab though..

[Talan]

15 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I think most of the folks who post on this thread still prefer the old models with arcs and tab though..

not me

[edwardlj]

10 hours ago, JohnM said:

Thanks for the link edwardlj -- interesting article.

I've always liked Full Count, especially the older 1101 and 0105 -- very soft, comfortable denim and nice fits.

And much respect to Mikiharu Tsujita for staying interested and committed to making jeans and tweaking his designs.  I think he has a point about the significantly higher back rise relative to the front -- makes for a comfortable fit.

also the back is roundish. and i just look at my pair of Sugar Cane1947, which also has this similar round high back.

[edwardlj]

8 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The denim Full Count uses is indeed a treat. I really wonder why there was not such a detailed information about the changes of the models on FC's own homepage (or was it and I missed it?!).

How many people will find this interview where Miki-san explains everything to why he changed the cuts and the sewing and all?

 

Edit:

And while we are at it, FC is about to release a new silhouette for their 30th anniversary which seems to be planned as a permanent style, the 1103. In between the 1101 and 1108.

https://fullcount.co/collections/pre-order-2022-a-w/products/1103-clean-straight-denim

i like their WWII s0105xx 14.4oz model, still considering getting one pair.....the imperfection of the coin pocket is very nice

[MJF9]

When FC forced the return and destruction of the long awaited TCB contest pairs, that left a sour taste. Any interest in trying a pair evaporated at that point and has not returned... there being plenty more cats in the alley, after all

[pomata]

Wait what?? What happened? Can someone briefly enlighten? 

[JohnM]

I'll let others explain the FC/TCB history since I can't remember the details anyway.  But that new 1103 sounds interesting.  The 1108 was pretty trim in the thighs and the 1103 is supposed to be similar to the 1101 in this area, while having a narrower hem.  Will be interesting to see measurements of these when they come out.

While on the subject of measurements, how do the new 1101 or 0105 fit compared to the older models with arcs and tabs?  I only have the latter.

Edited December 8, 2022 by JohnM

[Broark]

58 minutes ago, pomata said:

Wait what?? What happened? Can someone briefly enlighten? 

We had the TCB 20's contest a few years ago, on those jeans TCB used arcs that were very similar to FC.
FC wasn't happy about this, demanded that all the pairs be returned and destroyed or they would sue TCB.
TCB obliged, they then had to make new pairs with different arcs (or no arcs) and distribute them to the contestants.
Ever since that I've lost all interest in FC. This combined with the changes to the jeans (lower SPI, no arcs / tabs) and the recent anniversary cash-grab (hey let's put arcs and tabs on the same jeans and charge even more and call it special edition!) just left a bad taste in my mouth. Plenty of other brands out there fortunately.

[Geeman]

5 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I think most of the folks who post on this thread still prefer the old models with arcs and tab though..

The one arc design I actually like. Have a NOS pair stashed.

I'll still buy FC in the future without the arcs though 

[pomata]

Thanks @Broark it’s sad to hear this from one of the Osaka 5. Doesn’t do them honour for sure