Unknown Japanese Brands

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@volvo240thebest nah, I already got something else. Unknown territory 

[JimTheBrass]

I’ll come out and say it, I don’t think the Indian red selvedge ID of the cottle jeans are bad looking at all. In fact I find it compelling. I know I might be alone on this one but, I wonder if anyone else is with me.

Actually, what I do find a bit odd is the design on the patch. I know it represents neighboring islands. Just seems a bit phallic. *shrugs shoulders*

[beautiful_FrEaK]

For all you cat lovers, check out @sakuras_overalls on Instagram

 

https://www.instagram.com/sakuras_overalls/

[BrownMetallic]

 Oh, this is the one that shows how to chainstitch hem, manually, using a basic  sewing machine.

Edited March 23, 2021 by BrownMetallic

[generic_guy]

On 3/22/2021 at 5:31 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

I’ve looked at a number of pictures of the Jelado 301XX and noticed that the top of the back right pocket runs parallel to the yoke whilst the top of the back left pocket runs parallel to the waistband. Consequently they’re both at different angles and I t’s not due to how they’re folded for photos. It’s very strange and something I’ve never seen before.

 

I've just posted about this in the non-Japanese thread as I didn't notice I wasn't in this thread and somehow missed this post.

I really fancy a pair of these in the unwashed and Clutch Cafe have my size but the pockets are putting me off.

I found this site:

http://denimarchieves.com/e/repro_denim_clothes/jelado_301xx_en.html

They say "The back pockets are symmetrical on the Levi's 501XX, but on the Gerrard 301XX, they are asymmetrical. The left pocket is shown in the photo, but the right pocket is similarly shaped with the right side bulged out. The right side of the right pocket is also bulged out. Also, on the Levi's 501XX, the back pockets are mounted parallel to the back yoke, whereas on the Gerard 301XX, the back pockets are mounted at an angle to the back yoke."

So obviously isn't a fault or mistake but as you say normal fifties 501s didn't have pockets like this so not quite sure what the reasoning is behind this.

I could probably learn to like this pocket style if there is a good vintage explanation for it.

 

[Maynard Friedman]

Thanks g_g, I found that site too but didn’t bother to read it properly (despite discovering the English version). I just looked at the pictures! 
Your photo illustrates the issue far better than mine though.

Edited March 23, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[Thanks_M8]

Got around to washing and wearing those, since I figured I wouldn't win any contests with my lifestyle right now

Go West "mystery" jeans. got a leather yoke and the fabric between the front-pockets and the waist is not denim, but leather aswell. Pictures of that a few pages back.
Black warp, strong sulfur smell and stiff denim.
Not sure about the length at the moment, but let's see.
Really nice detail is the stitch-count on the inseam. gets higher in the crotch area. 

Edited April 2, 2021 by Thanks_M8

[Broark]

Some worn photos of the above Jelado 301XXs here: https://let-it-be-clothing.blogspot.com/2021/04/jelado-301xx-beforeafter.html

[generic_guy]

They look great there but I can't get past those rear pockets.

Wondering if they are a repro of a specific pair and that would explain it? I've read that the jeans n the 501xx book are often atypical.

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

On 3/5/2021 at 4:05 PM, persco_ said:

I got very Cottle-curious a few months ago. But the more I delved into the brand the more precious they seemed and thus not worth it (to me personally) for the premium being sought. Then I walked away. This is where I think William at Tender has struck a good balance between what you framed as whimsy mixed with attention to detail that just somehow retains an authenticity (probably misquoting you). 

I'm tempted by quite a few of their offerings. Not surprisingly, Tender is one of my favorites - but the cuts and styles are pretty different over at Cottle and I think would mix quite well actually. The premium for some things isn't really much more than with Tender either - sometimes price are basically comparable. I like the selvedge line also, though I don't hold classic Levi's and the accompanying details as an objective standard either. I think it's funny that a little selvedge line is considered loud against some of the flannels and other design elements often seen - not that those are bad, but a selvedge line on the pocket is hardly loud noticeable to most people. If I get anything I will report back - I do wish the jeans were unsanforized. I am more curious about some of their tops to be honest. 

[Dr_Heech]

Bought these Bartack's new (old/stock) way back around when l first joined sufu but now cant find my pics of them here so...

Made in around 1994 iirc. The pocket design has been altered by me to look more like a levis one, l cut the tab off (think it was blue) and also removed the uninteresting (to me) patch. Guy on ebay had a batch so l rolled the dice for 75 quid. 36x33 but measured 35x39. Super green cast denim, which always seems impossible for me to catch on my phone camera, and different colours/gauges of cotton thread used. Got them hemmed at Soas. Odd back pocket positions but love them overall and the denim has that vintage marble thing going on from normal wash and wear. No hidden rivets but some nice details nonetheless -

 

[generic_guy]

I messaged the Jelado instagram account to ask about the pockets and he was kind enough to reply.

"I made all of them in the same way based on xx, so I got that design."

Still not quite clear but I am taking this to mean they are based on a specific pair?

[HGS]

I think those pockets are awesome.  Very cool detail, something tging a little different

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Not completely a Japanese brand but made in Japan, anybody has experience with Anatomica 618 Original jeans?

The no-side-seam-construction is quite interesting and the LHT denim looks nice

http://anatomica.jp/products_detail.html?id=322

[aho]

Those Bartack's are a knockout. Could honestly be confused for vintage based on that fabric and wear

[unders]

Good mail day. 

The Signal & Brass Shoe Co repro of the 1880s / Nevada / Knappave overalls arrived. Slightly concerned they are a great post-soak fit before they’ve seen water, so might be cold washes only for these until I shift my lockdown gut. 

Won’t be worn in the LL Cool J style, just lazy cuffing to try on

 

Nice wide hem/opening stitch on back pocket (if that makes sense)

Period incorrect, but very handy, belt loops

 

Single stitch throughout. Sewn on buttons. Rivets aren’t hammered. Back of copper rivets are super smooth and feel super high quality. No branding on rivets  

Z stitching on cinch strap and as expected, the leather patch is real nice

Pocket bags use same denim (period correct)

I think the bottom of the watch pocket should sit above the front pocket to be correct, but I won’t lose any sleep over this. 

 

I did a quick and dirty comparison with a pair of 1886 LVC (bottom pair). The biggest difference I spotted was the yoke stitching, which is upside down. Also the Signal pair is unfinished whereas the LVC are overlocked. No idea which is period correct. The Signal jeans also don’t have the selvedge line. 

 

The denim is 9.5oz unsanforised and is neppy. These will be a great loose, summer jean. 
 

Quick question: has anyone got any good tips for flattening the rivets, other than just twatting them? Is there something I need to be placing the rivet on to avoid nodgering it?

Edited April 13, 2021 by unders

[Maynard Friedman]

They look great unders, I particularly like the neppy denim. I believe you just need a piece of wood (4x2) placed strategically behind the rivet when you blat it with a hammer. I’ll ask on behalf of everyone else - where’d you get ‘em? Signal Garments?

Edited April 13, 2021 by Maynard Friedman

[generic_guy]

They look great, be good to see them worn.

[unders]

Cheers MF. That makes sense. 

I got these from the Brass website but they sold out pretty quickly. Standard & Strange have them up though. 

[Broark]

Always liked the look of those, denim looks really nice.
Personally can’t ever get with the early one back pocket repros because I’m left handed, so I usually keep my wallet in my back left pocket.

[unders]

@Broark That’s where the tool pocket justifies buying them. Not that I can fit anything that I carry in it, so who’s the tool here?? 

Yeah the denim is nice. And doesn’t feel gimmicky despite the nep. 

[MJF9]

@unders nice pick up... look fwd to seeing fit pics 

I think you have at least 2 pairs with suspender buttons now mate... are we going to now see you embrace your inner Tommy Ball???

[Duke Mantee]

https://mydenimblog.wordpress.com/2013/12/29/1880s-levis-dungarees/

[unders]

Cheers @MJF9 I’ll continue to rely on the cinch and belt loops, and the Bobby Ball reference ain’t swinging it!

Thanks for posting that @Duke Mantee Good to see some detail pics. So the yoke stitching on the Levi’s is right way around, so the Signal pair are upside down, and these don’t have the leather washers. 

[Duke Mantee]

1 hour ago, unders said:

Cheers @MJF9 I’ll continue to rely on the cinch and belt loops, and the Bobby Ball reference ain’t swinging it!

Thanks for posting that @Duke Mantee Good to see some detail pics. So the yoke stitching on the Levi’s is right way around, so the Signal pair are upside down, and these don’t have the leather washers. 

No worries mate - Captain Jean is a good guy. As for overlocking/serging - it was in development around mid/late 19th c. but not patented until 1889 (‘invented’ about 8~9 years earlier), so probably not in use for mass production until a good while after that I’d think.

All that period correct nonsense aside, those are really nice overalls. They seem to have the right pattern and they capture the essence of old timey trews.

Edited April 13, 2021 by Duke Mantee

[smoothsailor]

pretty cool pair Unders

[unders]

Some fit pics of the Brass/Signal pair I posted above

 

Sure am happy with them 

[MJF9]

@unders they look cool mate

[Dr_Heech]

^agreed @unders, proper old skool overalls fit 

[julian-wolf]

Yours for just 63k…