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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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I got a pair of raw Lee 101S and the shop said the inseam will shrink about 2" in length with first wash, no mention of waist shrinkage, but I'm still unsure if I should soak them before wearing to get all shrinkage out of the way. What do you guys think?

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Sanforized Lee denim will often shrink in the inseam with negligible shrinkage in the waist but dimensions are variable. My 'sanforized' 1937 101B shrunk 3" in the leg and 0.5" in the waist from a 60C wash.

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Sanforized Lee denim will often shrink in the inseam with negligible shrinkage in the waist but dimensions are variable. My 'sanforized' 1937 101B shrunk 3" in the leg and 0.5" in the waist from a 60C wash.

 

Is that attributable to the Lees being LHT?

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Anyone know of a vendor that is still currently carrying a size 27 or 28 Rogue Territory Stealth RK Trouser (black)?? The company itself is not planning on restocking on this particular style and I've only now realized how badly I want a pair! Damnit, lol. Those trouser pockets are to die for.

Alternatively, anyone know of other brands of raw denim with trouser style slant pockets, in black?

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Anyone know of a vendor that is still currently carrying a size 27 or 28 Rogue Territory Stealth RK Trouser (black)?? The company itself is not planning on restocking on this particular style and I've only now realized how badly I want a pair! Damnit, lol. Those trouser pockets are to die for.

Alternatively, anyone know of other brands of raw denim with trouser style slant pockets, in black?

I believe Blue Owl still has some in size 27

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My weird guys are slowly deteriorating.  Are there any good links on how to fix this? Or anywhere I could find advice on what to do? I don't have any sewing experience but it would be nice trying to fix these myself before sending them out

IMG_1794_zpsc5130806.jpg?t=1393711765

IMG_0883_zps4693a214.jpg?t=1393711766

IMG_9315_zps590b77cf.jpg?t=1393711781

IMG_3420_zpsf9ebdf45.jpg?t=1393711783

Edited by ShakeEmUp
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^^ do this:

BUT

1) you will have to take off the lower half of the pocket (stitching) before you start to repair those pockets and reattach afterward (this is easier than it might seem). Your pocket has hidden rivets and this will secure it in place so don't worry about how much original stitching you take off to get to the hole BUT if you had bartacks you would not take off that stitching.

2) you probably won't be using a dedicated darning machine to do these repairs. If this is the case, I suggest you hand sew a light piece of fabric in place of the hole. Like Andrew shows in the in the video: make sure that the original denim hangs correctly before attempting the darn. For rips without much missing denim: you could get away without extra piece of fabric and just hand sew rip together.

3) Then with a freeform setting* on your sewing machine follow Andrew's steps in video above. * That is, the foot of your sewing machine should not secure the fabric from above and the traction bit from below should not be engaged.

ALSO: practice on scrap before getting to (3). You will want to get a feel for darning and adjust the tension of your machine before you start.

Edited by Al6ert
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Here's a question to all leather 'experts', I have a jacket that came with a tag that said "waxed leather" - any special advice for conditioning something like that? The jacket's fairly new and not dry or anything, just wanted to take care of it before spring.

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RAKUTEN question -  anyone have issues with any stores on Rakuten? I made purchases from 2 stores about 4 days. neither one has provided me shipping costs to approve, and neither one has responded to my emails chasing them. The stores in question are 'e-alex' and 'bigshot'

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^^ do this:

BUT

1) you will have to take off the lower half of the pocket (stitching) before you start to repair those pockets and reattach afterward (this is easier than it might seem). Your pocket has hidden rivets and this will secure it in place so don't worry about how much original stitching you take off to get to the hole BUT if you had bartacks you would not take off that stitching.

2) you probably won't be using a dedicated darning machine to do these repairs. If this is the case, I suggest you hand sew a light piece of fabric in place of the hole. Like Andrew shows in the in the video: make sure that the original denim hangs correctly before attempting the darn. For rips without much missing denim: you could get away without extra piece of fabric and just hand sew rip together.

3) Then with a freeform setting* on your sewing machine follow Andrew's steps in video above. * That is, the foot of your sewing machine should not secure the fabric from above and the traction bit from below should not be engaged.

ALSO: practice on scrap before getting to (3). You will want to get a feel for darning and adjust the tension of your machine before you start.

What all will I need? I don't really have any supplies. I know the art studio that I take photo classes has a sewing machine available that I could probably use.  Is there anywhere I could get scrap pieces of denim?

 

And worst case scenario if I don't have the supplies/skills/patience to do it myself is there anywhere I could send them to get them fixed?

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@shake - home repairs are easier than you might think. the pockets will be the hardest ones but you could work up to those. i fix a lot of stuff myself and that's based on a sewing class that i took in 8th grade (over 20yrs ago). it's all pretty basic, just needs a bit of practice and confidence. it may be more effort than you want to put in, but i recommend getting your own machine 2nd hand and practicing on some shitty jeans to get the hang of it. this is exactly what i did and whilst i'm no expert any way shape or form, i have no qualms sticking a $400 pair of iron hearts under my needle.

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hey guys !!

 

just a question, altho it might sounds silly, any idea why the 1101sp going to battle from Momos is so cheap ?! 

 

the deal looks amazing but I somehow can't figure it out. is that about the denim ? construction ? weight ? fading potential ?

 

here it is. http://www.denimio.com/BOTTOMS-c-329/Momotaro-Jeans-b-255/Momotaro-Jeans--Going-to-Battle-Label--1101SP-10oz-p-9823.html

 

 

thanks in advance ! 

Edited by BukkakeKing
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hey guys !!

 

just a question, altho it might sounds silly, any idea why the 1101sp going to battle from Momos is so cheap ?! 

 

the deal looks amazing but I somehow can't figure it out. is that about the denim ? construction ? weight ? fading potential ?

 

here it is. http://www.denimio.com/BOTTOMS-c-329/Momotaro-Jeans-b-255/Momotaro-Jeans--Going-to-Battle-Label--1101SP-10oz-p-9823.html

 

 

thanks in advance ! 

 

That's the 10oz version. 

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@shake - home repairs are easier than you might think. the pockets will be the hardest ones but you could work up to those. i fix a lot of stuff myself and that's based on a sewing class that i took in 8th grade (over 20yrs ago). it's all pretty basic, just needs a bit of practice and confidence. it may be more effort than you want to put in, but i recommend getting your own machine 2nd hand and practicing on some shitty jeans to get the hang of it. this is exactly what i did and whilst i'm no expert any way shape or form, i have no qualms sticking a $400 pair of iron hearts under my needle.

 

I'll add to this good advice.

 

shake, you don't need scrap denim to darn your jeans. as shown in the UES blog post, lighter fabric is better to use for backing these repairs because you want the repair to bend and crease with the original denim.

 

if you aren't able to get it together to do the repairs yourself, then any decent tailor should be able to darn your jeans. if you are near nyc, sf, la, or pdx then go into self edge (darn-it)...as for online, I believe denim doctors does mail-ins 

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