The Rite Stuff

[Iron Horse 4,831]

12 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

Not really interested in work shirts, but if y'all ever come up with some western shirts, this tall skinny guys is interested.

Down the line, yes! I'v got designs for three different western shirts on my desk; one denim one, a wabash one, and a flannel.

[indigoeagle 876]

On 7.6.2017 at 1:07 AM, Iron Horse said:

Hello; thanks for the specific measurements! Yes, this shirt is indigo-dyed.

 

Good to hear that.

I also have some chambray shirts, that are supposed to be indigo dyed, but no fades whatsoever. Also note, on the Japanese sites the product is often described 'navy' and not 'indigo'. Navy doesn't mean that it can't be indigo-dyed, but often that seems to be the case.

A great shirt.

[indigoeagle 876]

.

Edited June 21, 2017 by indigoeagle

[indigoeagle 876]

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Edited June 21, 2017 by indigoeagle

[MasonAlexander 2,389]

Got to view one of the shirts at The Shop today, and Ive gotta say.. im very happy with what Ive seen. Hoping i'll get to go in there again this week and try it on. Would love for one of these to be the next chambray in my closet

[Maynard Friedman 570,511]

Good luck with the venture IH, the shirts look great.

[Foxy2 8,930]

my order seems to be stuck in the Russian postal sytem (nothing out of the ordinary) - got to hunt it down now...

[Iron Horse 4,831]

Thank you Indigo Eagle, Mason, and Maynard. 

Foxy, hope they let it loose soon!

On January 7, 2017 at 6:41 AM, lance said:

Nice looking shirt, Iron Horse and great effort; I wish you success! I really like the heft and darker color of the chambray cloth and look forward to the XL. For me, western sizes in XL refer to shoulder widths of 20 - 21 inches and pit to pit 24 - 25 inches with other dimensions increased proportionately; armhole dimensions and forearm dimensions especially. One question - I've never been certain if/when chambray shirts are Indigo dyed. So, is this shirt Indigo dyed? Thanks and good luck.

Potentially good news; I'm in talks now to get a small run of XL and XXL of this shirt made. 

[Broark 16,651]

4 minutes ago, Iron Horse said:

Potentially good news; I'm in talks now to get a small run of XL and XXL of this shirt made. 

You've got my attention now. 

[lance 127,814]

Thanks, Iron Horse, let us know when they're available.

[bradl 926]

Local shop just got these in, didn't know you were behind it IH. Will have to go in and check them out soon.

[Foxy2 8,930]

finally managed to pick it up from the local post office...nice fabric, nice hardware, workmanship seems fine and measurements should work for me. will try it on later tonight and put it through the obligatory wash.

big minus (in my books): the slim, modern collar appears to have turned out too hip - a real turn-off on a replica shirt...but this could be a big pro for others.

[lance 127,814]

The shirt looks great Foxy, I like the color and the collar. The color because it looks a bit darker shade and the collar because it's a departure from the numerous work shirts I own. Wear it well!

[ironheartfan123 142]

Shirt looks really good!

[ironheartfan123 142]

On 6/6/2017 at 8:01 AM, Geeman said:

Did I miss something or to old to understand? 

Anti-semitic hate media on the internet (typically identifying as "right" wing) puts a triple-parens around a person's name to identify that person as part of a global conspiracy (I think some older people are doing it too)...though I don't think that's happening here?!

[bartlebyyphonics 9,665]

15 minutes ago, ironheartfan123 said:

Anti-semitic hate media on the internet (typically identifying as "right" wing) puts a triple-parens around a person's name to identify that person as part of a global conspiracy (I think some older people are doing it too)...though I don't think that's happening here?!

yup, le triple (((echo))) brackets used to highlight users for alt-right attention, then used in defiance...

kinda explained here:

http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/media/2016/06/why-are-there-triple-brackets-around-names-social-media

https://www.theguardian.com/technology/shortcuts/2016/jun/12/echoes-beating-the-far-right-two-triple-brackets-at-a-time

but echo shirt names?

[Iron Horse 4,831]

I think ooms was just goofing around with a meme, turning it into 2017's air quotes. Certainly not an anti-Grecian sentiment!

[Iron Horse 4,831]

23 hours ago, Foxy2 said:

finally managed to pick it up from the local post office...nice fabric, nice hardware, workmanship seems fine and measurements should work for me. will try it on later tonight and put it through the obligatory wash.

big minus (in my books): the slim, modern collar appears to have turned out too hip - a real turn-off on a replica shirt...but this could be a big pro for others.

Just saw this Foxy, thanks for the feedback; originally the factory had done the collar fairly straight and wide, kind of like a standard modern collar, the flat part of the end measured 7.5 cm. John pointed this out to them and we said it needed to be more spearpointed, but not overly so. Final measurement of the flat part of the bottom is 6 cm, but I can look at getting it to 7 cm for the next run no problem.

 

Edited June 30, 2017 by Iron Horse

[edmond 867,232]

23 hours ago, Foxy2 said:

finally managed to pick it up from the local post office...nice fabric, nice hardware, workmanship seems fine and measurements should work for me. will try it on later tonight and put it through the obligatory wash.

big minus (in my books): the slim, modern collar appears to have turned out too hip - a real turn-off on a replica shirt...but this could be a big pro for others.

Can i get cheat measurements foxy?

[Foxy2 8,930]

they were around 56 or 57cm, IIRC - but the cut is quite tapered in the side seams...

the cut is more for "athletic" body types - in order to make it work for my belly I would need to size up one more, which would probably make the shoulders even wider for me (the shoulders are already quite wide in the curents size).

anywhooo, I'll put this thing through the washer over the WE and document my findings more in details here - again, what might not work for me might work for others...

Edited June 30, 2017 by Foxy2

[Iron Horse 4,831]

I'm now taking pre-orders on XL and XXL sizes, doing a limited run of 40 of these, with 14 of them heading off to Vater und Sohn immediately. 

The chest laid flat and stretched out on the XL should be 63.5 and on the XXL it should be 66. However there's some taper in the body as Foxy noted, so the hem width on the XL is 57 and on the XXL it's 59. I recommend tucking the shirt in for the most part, though.

[lance 127,814]

Thanks, Iron Horse, what are the XXL shoulder to shoulder, sleeve length and width across the sleeve at the top of placket? Any or all you can manage will be appreciated. Thanks

edit sleeve dimension seems picky but I live in FL and need to roll the sleeves above the elbows - the placket area seems to be the controlling dimension

Edited July 1, 2017 by lance

[Iron Horse 4,831]

Hello Lance, here is the size chart:

 

[lance 127,814]

Thanks

[mrman 451]

The taper seems quite extreme, usually p2p and waist differ by just a couple of cm. Nice to see bigger sizes, though

[Iron Horse 4,831]

3 hours ago, mrman said:

The taper seems quite extreme, usually p2p and waist differ by just a couple of cm. Nice to see bigger sizes, though

Thanks for the feedback, yes, the shirt works best tucked in. I can make the cut a bit straighter for the next run, though.

[mikecch 1,276,441]

Quick pics while I work on my review~

Next couple of photos taken by Marty at Godspeed:

So far, I've found that the shirt works best for me unbuttoned or buttoned & tucked in.

The fit could be described as V-shaped. For blokes with a bit of gut, the fit can be a little restrictive.

Otherwise, the shirt fits great for larger guys - see the photo below: lots of back and shoulder room, I can actually move my arms around freely, unlike most box-cut Japanese work-shirts.

[lance 127,814]

What size are you wearing, mikecch? And, thanks for the fit pics, I'll look forward to your full review.

edit: ah, I just noticed the tag in the first photo, an L.

Edited July 2, 2017 by lance

[Foxy2 8,930]

Based on marks at the lower button holes and the fabric creases it seems to fit you pretty tight - I guess sitting down is when it gets really tight...

mine is probably even tighter around the waist on me - going up another size would also make the oversized shoulders wider, the sleeves longer, the neck hole wider and the body longer.

here is what happens around the sleeve holes towards the waist...

[Foxy2 8,930]

The collar is a real issue for me - too small for my liking. Aesthetically speaking it looks unbalanced and off - like somebody has shrunken it. The collar stand is almost bigger than the collar...

My personal issue with the collar might just be what others are looking for - good for them!

Edited July 3, 2017 by Foxy2