TCB

[yung_flynn]

2 hours ago, willi said:

Once I own something for a year, I know for sure whether I want to wear it or put it on ebay. Cats Drive is passing that smell test for me.

I kind of agree. I only rarely pull them out to wear but I have yet to get to a stage where I entertain the thought of laying out for measurements or photos. Every time I wear them I feel like I should wear them more too. I just have been grabbing my Kyotos for that type of fit at the moment. The Cats Drove would be a good candidate for me to take on a trip for some sustained wear. 

[BionicEye]

 

Edited January 2 by BionicEye

[blooming]

Since I've been in love with my 30s jacket, I ordered a pair of 30s jeans from Göteborg Manufaktur since they had a size 31 available.

 

These will be my first pair with a cinch waist, too. I'm having them hemmed a bit longer than usual, leaving them at 85cm so I can try to get some of that TCB sag look.

[Thicolas Rage]

1 hour ago, blooming said:

Since I've been in love with my 30s jacket, I ordered a pair of 30s jeans from Göteborg Manufaktur since they had a size 31 available.

 

These will be my first pair with a cinch waist, too. I'm having them hemmed a bit longer than usual, leaving them at 85cm so I can try to get some of that TCB sag look.

No way! I have a size 31 on the way as well (from Clever web shop, kind of stumbled upon them by accident and had accepted waiting for TCB to restock them). Also hemmed mine longer than usual, although that ends up being 79cm for my frame. Very excited for the cinch back as well.

Edited January 7 by Thicolas Rage

[blooming]

Awesome, we can compare fits once we both have 'em. 😆

 

Mine are on their way right now and should have them within the week. I think these may have the widest leg opening of anything I own aside from FC or my Ooe WW2.

[Thicolas Rage]

My TCB 30s just arrived @blooming You’re gunna love them. Super roomy and comfortable right off the bat, exactly the kind of wider fit I was hoping for. Couldn’t be happier with how they sit on me! Rocking a big cuff for now until I give these a wash in a month or so. 

My only (small) gripe is that clever web shop chainstitched hemmed these bad boys with copper thread instead of the original yellow, making the hem the only copper thread used on the pair. I have access to a local chainstitch service that could re-do it yellow (especially if I want a smaller cuff after washing) but the thing is despite between copper it’s a REALLY clean union special chainstitch that looks like it will rope very nicely. What would you guys do? 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 9 by Thicolas Rage

[exaptavist]

/\ that's a really good fit on you, and personally I would leave the chainstitch from Clever as is, if it's cotton or cotton wrapped poly core it will fade anyway.  Great colour on the S101 too, Deluxeware sweats are superb.

[Thicolas Rage]

6 hours ago, exaptavist said:

/\ that's a really good fit on you, and personally I would leave the chainstitch from Clever as is, if it's cotton or cotton wrapped poly core it will fade anyway.  Great colour on the S101 too, Deluxeware sweats are superb.

Thanks! I figured the chainstitch may fade as well but wasn’t sure to what extent so I’ll just let it ride and see what happens.

Have had the s101 for a little over a week now and I get why it’s so well recommended. Great combination of somehow sitting fitted/close to the body but also feeling thick and heat-retaining too. Must be the modifications they made to the loopwheel machines to make the knit super dense. The colour (olive) is from this year’s release! 

 

Edited January 10 by Thicolas Rage

[Maynard Friedman]

Glad you’re enjoying the sweatshirt @Thicolas Rage. Regarding the hem chainstitch colour, I wouldn’t be concerned in the slightest. It’s probably something I would have overlooked but if I had noticed, I’d likely appreciate the variety of hues rather than having the same colour stitching throughout.

[blooming]

11 hours ago, Thicolas Rage said:

My TCB 30s just arrived @blooming You’re gunna love them. Super roomy and comfortable right off the bat, exactly the kind of wider fit I was hoping for. Couldn’t be happier with how they sit on me! Rocking a big cuff for now until I give these a wash in a month or so. 

My only (small) gripe is that clever web shop chainstitched hemmed these bad boys with copper thread instead of the original yellow, making the hem the only copper thread used on the pair. I have access to a local chainstitch service that could re-do it yellow (especially if I want a smaller cuff after washing) but the thing is despite between copper it’s a REALLY clean union special chainstitch that looks like it will rope very nicely. What would you guys do? 
 

 

 

 

 

 

These look great! I think mine should be here on Monday, so I'll grab some pics if I can.

 

Also- I'd leave the hem stitching as is. The more you mess with it, the more likely you'll end up with some subpar roping as I've learned from experience.

Edited January 10 by blooming

[exaptavist]

5 hours ago, Thicolas Rage said:

Thanks! I figured the chainstitch may fade as well but wasn’t sure to what extent so I’ll just let it ride and see what happens.

Have had the s101 for a little over a week now and I get why it’s so well recommended. Great combination of somehow sitting fitted/close to the body but also feeling thick and heat-retaining too. Must be the modifications they made to the loopwheel machines to make the knit super dense. The colour (olive) is from this year’s release! 

 

That's a good way of putting it.
I have an S101 in sumikuro in an XL which is very ciose fitting, and an S102 in 'gray beige' in the larger USM size which is looser (and I prefer) fitting, both feel like suits of armour!
 

[Thicolas Rage]

The votes are in, I’ll keep the hem as is and enjoy the roping as begin washing them frequently. Thanks @blooming and @Maynard Friedman! Really enjoying the deluxeware sweat and pre-ordered it soon after we chatted. Will be recommending them anytime discussion comes up on loopwheeled sweats, the price to quality ratio seems fantastic. 
 

@exaptavist will have to try some of the other sweats they have, I’m sure this s101 is just first of many from deluxeware for me. Glad you’re enjoying them as well! 

[Thicolas Rage]

On another note, has anyone here pre-ordered the late s40’s jacket or received one? 

[bartlebyyphonics]

@Thicolas Rage- great full legged fit on the 30s: agreeing with others: if the hemming structure is good: dont mess: although i am fussy re: hemming colours myself: but good roping trumps it…

[yung_flynn]

@Thicolas Ragei really like the fit of your 30s. They’ll go on my list of pairs to consider in the future. In my mind, TCB fits work best when one embraces the sag. 
 

Also what is the sleeve length like on the Deluxeware s101 sweatshirt? I’ve considered them before but was a little skittish because my arms are very long. I went with a set-in sleeve Cushman instead and the XL there is barely long enough in the sleeves for me

[exaptavist]

@yung_flynn if you don't get an answer beforehand, I can measure up if you give me a few days - my XL S101-00 is sitting washed in the wardrobe.

They changed the cut late 2020 - https://ameblo.jp/deluxeware/entry-12637752743.html - though I am fairly sure mine is the newer shape.

The larger US.M I have in the S102 (thought I was ordering a 'P' but instead received an '00' ...) is only wider in the width - blog post about that here; https://ameblo.jp/deluxeware/entry-12354134912.html

Edited January 11 by exaptavist

[yung_flynn]

5 minutes ago, exaptavist said:

@yung_flynn if you don't get an answer beforehand, I can measure up if you give me a few days - my XL S101-00 is sitting washed in the wardrobe.

They changed the cut late 2020 - https://ameblo.jp/deluxeware/entry-12637752743.html - though I am fairly sure mine is the newer shape.

The larger US.M I have in the S102 (thought I was ordering a 'P' but instead received an '00' ...) is only wider in the width - blog post about that here; https://ameblo.jp/deluxeware/entry-12354134912.html

Thanks! I’ve seen the size charts across a few places and sleeves seem like an inch shorter than Cushman and what I’d need. I like the Cushman ones and would be perfectly happy with more but I’m a serial sampler at heart. 

[Thicolas Rage]

@yung_flynn thanks! Re: the sleeve measurements on my s101 I’ll measure up when I get home - I took a standard L size but I would assume the US sizes might accommodate a longer sleeve length as well. 
 

I’m also very intrigued by cushman, specially their freedom sleeve sweats and afterhoods. Will certainly get my hands on one of those in the future! 

Edited January 11 by Thicolas Rage

[Thicolas Rage]

@yung_flynn the sleeve measurement of my size L sits at 58.5cm. Deluxeware has it clocked at 59.5cm, meaning my sleeves are 1cm shorter than expected. 

Edited January 12 by Thicolas Rage

[blooming]

FWIW, I have a Cushman set-in sleeve, and its wildly comfy. It retains that soft, pillowy feel as it wears in.

[Cold Summer]

The Late S40s jeans just landed at Bears, along with the corresponding Type I jacket. Between the appealing price with free shipping, and measurements comparable to my favorite pairs I wear, I couldn't resist and ordered a pair. These should be a nice complement to the more conventional wartime features on my TFH 3003xx.

Amazingly, this is my first pair of TCB jeans. (Though back in 2017, I briefly had their 50s jacket. I loved the denim on it, but it was too small for me.) I'd be really curious to hear from somebody who's had several of the specific wartime repros that have come out in the last couple years from other brands like Sugar Cane and Warehouse, and how they compare to TCB's attempt.

[Thicolas Rage]

1 hour ago, Cold Summer said:

The Late S40s jeans just landed at Bears, along with the corresponding Type I jacket. Between the appealing price with free shipping, and measurements comparable to my favorite pairs I wear, I couldn't resist and ordered a pair. These should be a nice complement to the more conventional wartime features on my TFH 3003xx.

Amazingly, this is my first pair of TCB jeans. (Though back in 2017, I briefly had their 50s jacket. I loved the denim on it, but it was too small for me.) I'd be really curious to hear from somebody who's had several of the specific wartime repros that have come out in the last couple years from other brands like Sugar Cane and Warehouse, and how they compare to TCB's attempt.

Great snag, from what I could gather all the shops were having trouble getting any late 40s stock because of their popularity and probably only got one or two pairs of each size! They are selling out super quick, it seems any 'war model' is an incredibly hot commodity within Japan (similar to how the warehouse DSB ww2 model jacket that released in late december instantly sold out as well). I grabbed the jacket myself (I think the model in the photos is probably wearing my jacket as I got the same size hahaha) and just looked on the site and anything smaller than a 42 is already sold out completely. I'm excited for a TCB jacket where the pattern hasn't been altered from the original, should be a little shorter and nice and roomy around the shoulder and arm holes. Bears is selling them significantly lower than any other site as well...crazy that free shipping is included too. 

Edited January 21 by Thicolas Rage

[willi]

I'm wearing my new S40s today. Pattern has broken in really well on me. I think this will end up being one of TCBs best models, alongside 50s.

[tigerstrom]

Bummed that I missed out on the Word of Mouth contest so I bought a pair of 50s to cheer me up  I have a old pair in size 34 but this time I went with 36. Fits so good imo! Here combined with and old tcb chore jk. 

[blooming]

My 30s have been here for a few days and have been worn every day so far. Had a bit of a shipping issue and had to pick up at the local FedEx, but I'm happy to have a 30's tux finally. I'll get some fit pics when I'm able. CC @Thicolas Rage

[julian-wolf]

Preview

[Thicolas Rage]

@blooming Looking forward to seeing some fit pics, especially of a full tux!!!

@julian-wolf Beautiful doggo - you have to elaborate on the jacket! Is this a self-made project or something TCB sells as is?

[julian-wolf]

@Thicolas Rage A small run of them was made by TCB for Kiriyama Works, an auto shop with whom they have a long-standing relationship (I’m sure you’ve seen photos of the shop on TCB’s blog / shop / social media). Ryo was very helpful in coordinating with them to get me one. It’s the same denim and lining as the recent late-WWII jacket. More photos to come!

[julian-wolf]

https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/pre-order-lined-late-s40s-jacket

[Thicolas Rage]

On 1/24/2025 at 10:51 AM, julian-wolf said:

@Thicolas Rage A small run of them was made by TCB for Kiriyama Works, an auto shop with whom they have a long-standing relationship (I’m sure you’ve seen photos of the shop on TCB’s blog / shop / social media). Ryo was very helpful in coordinating with them to get me one. It’s the same denim and lining as the recent late-WWII jacket. More photos to come!

Ahhh, I had seen the photo with the doggo when they had the dog coat reversed to show off the lining - cool to see the flip side! Would love to see more photos