Levi's Vintage Clothing

[Paul T]

I think those are a men's cut, most likely closest to the 1954 501.

The Lady Levi's equivalent (the 701) look much more period, with a higher waist, much more tapered at the top, which emphasises the hips.

The 47 might be worth looking at too, might have less of a 'does my bum look big in this' factor.

[lenn]

paul, you're the best, thanks for answering!

[hawkeye]

Worn out by losses, Taylor Togs to close

Charlotte.com

October 13, 2007

Original Charlotte.com article: Worn out by losses, Taylor Togs to close

Worn out by losses, Taylor Togs to close

High-end clothing not enough to save N.C. denim maker

Jen Aronoff

Taylor Togs, one of the few remaining blue jean makers in the Southeast, is going out of business and will close its two Western North Carolina plants, leaving about 160 people jobless.

The company's sewing plant in Yancey County, in the N.C. mountains, and finishing plant in Taylorsville, about 60 miles northwest of Charlotte, will close by the end of the month, owner Grier Lackey said Friday.

In August, the Observer detailed Taylor Togs' effort to survive in an economy that has been profoundly altered by cheap imports.

The company once profitably produced 60,000 pairs of basic jeans a week for Levi's and Wrangler.

But in recent years, after those companies shifted production out of the country, Taylor Togs tried to stay afloat by making smaller quantities of more expensive -- $150 and up -- premium and vintage-style jeans, which constitute a small but growing segment of the domestic denim market.

Business was a struggle, Taylor Togs management said. And after three straight years of losses that came out of his pocket, Lackey decided it was time to shut down.

In the end, he said, orders were too small, an average of about 1,200 pairs a week, and overhead and labor too high to make a profit. 'We didn't see enough change in the future to justify investing more money,' he said.

Taylor Togs' Micaville plant in Yancey County has cut and sewn jeans for about 50 years. It made its last pair -- a replica of a 1971 Levi's 517 style, part of the brand's high-end vintage collection -- at 12:06 p.m. Friday.

Many of the company's employees had been with Taylor Togs for 30 years or more, and they were aware of its precarious position, Lackey said. He has worked in recent weeks to find them government assistance.

'It's just like breaking up a family,' he said. 'It's very emotional, very hard and very difficult. But I'm a grown man, and sometimes you have to do things in life that are very difficult.'

Lackey said he plans to offer Taylor Togs' buildings for lease or sale in hope of bringing at least a few more jobs to an area that has struggled economically in recent years, amid the departure of furniture and other manufacturing jobs.

Taylor Togs' closing will be keenly felt by its customers, among them Rag & Bone, a New York-based design duo that included labels reading 'handmade in N. Carolina' in its jeans.

'I wish there were more people who thought it was important to make stuff here and have it made by these types of people,' said Marcus Wainwright, a co-founder of Rag & Bone.

Instead, he said, businesses focus solely on profit, often at the expense of character and heritage.

The first plant that made his company's jeans, in Kentucky, also closed. Now, he said, he plans to move production to New York and hopes to buy some of Taylor Togs' vintage equipment and bring up some of its skilled workers to help get started.

Lackey said government trade policy has made it difficult for businesses like his.

'People put their heart and soul into privately owned businesses ... (but) there's just too much competition. It's a thing a lot of people are having to go through. I'm not in a boat by myself.'

'I think that's what made America great, our ability to produce a product better and cheaper than anyone else in the world,' he said. 'I hope we can survive on the service industry.'

Jen Aronoff: 828-324-0055

VIDEO

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

Paul T, is there any difference in the fit between a 54 and a 55? I thought the only thing was the zipper...

[lilldavid]

that's a damn shame...

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

may the best find for your kids

[Paul T]

that's a damn shame...

Yes, a real tragedy.

Even as millions of punters are buying into Americana, the factories responsible for it are closing down.

Companies like Gap must take some responsibility for this - they were among the first to move production offshore, and as more have done it, economies of scale have forced the last manufacturers, like Levi's and finally Taylor Togs, offshore too. There's a good documentary on the BBC tonight about Primark, which uses child labor to make many of its products. First they tried to intimidate the BBC with an injunction - now they've raised their hands in horror and sacked the relevant suppliers. But if people want to continue buying crappy baseball hats for $1, the child labor and exploitation will continue.

(Oh, re the 54 and 55, no difference, if I said 54 I meant 55. There was, IIRC, a Japanese 54 repro that had a leather patch but was otherwsie the same shape. Nice jeans, btw, what size?? fancy a trade??)

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

a 54 with leather patch and offset belt loop would be fine

unfortunately these are not mine, just found em on the bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/vintage-50s-LEVIS-BIG-E-SELVAGE-DENIM-JEANS-JERKY-TAG_W0QQitemZ180257162006QQihZ008QQcategoryZ20291QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Shorty Long]

I know Levi had started producing SOME of its 'finished' LVC jeans overseas, but had still manufactured its rigid jeans here in the US. Does anyone know what the future holds for the production of rigid LVC items? I know some don't have a problem with it, but I'll find it hard to justify paying sub-$200 for Levi jeans made in Mexico or SE Asia.

[Paul T]

Yes, I agree. I don't think they'll try that: Japan, or Italy might be likely destinations if they can't find a US manufacturer. I think horriblejollyjinx posted he might have some info soon. If not, I've got an LVC project over the next few weeks and will get some news.

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Yes, I agree. I don't think they'll try that: Japan, or Italy might be likely destinations if they can't find a US manufacturer. I think horriblejollyjinx posted he might have some info soon. If not, I've got an LVC project over the next few weeks and will get some news.

I asked about production but he didn't know. I'll ask again soon.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

...just to show what masterpieces were created by taylor togs:

[simontuntelder]

(Oh, re the 54 and 55, no difference, if I said 54 I meant 55. There was, IIRC, a Japanese 54 repro that had a leather patch but was otherwsie the same shape. Nice jeans, btw, what size?? fancy a trade??)

I am sorry, if I haven't understood this correctly. But I am convinced that the LVC EU line made a '54 leather patch version too (in the 2004 collection, if I am not mistaken). The name was Rebel Rouser or something like that and it was a distressed model. I could find some pics, I think.

[rnrswitch]

Yes, a real tragedy.

Even as millions of punters are buying into Americana, the factories responsible for it are closing down.

Companies like Gap must take some responsibility for this - they were among the first to move production offshore, and as more have done it, economies of scale have forced the last manufacturers, like Levi's and finally Taylor Togs, offshore too. There's a good documentary on the BBC tonight about Primark, which uses child labor to make many of its products. First they tried to intimidate the BBC with an injunction - now they've raised their hands in horror and sacked the relevant suppliers. But if people want to continue buying crappy baseball hats for $1, the child labor and exploitation will continue.

What are you some kinda socialist pinko commie? j/k. I have used as an excuse for paying, you know $200 for a pair of jeans or $400 for a pair of Alden shoes, by saying that at least somebody made somewhat of a living wage making my goods, but it is becoming increasingly harder and harder to prove that. With LVC stuff being made in Turkey and other countries with somewhat questionable labor practices (not that the US doesn't have questionable labor practices) it is harder and harder for me to justify big money on a pair of jeans when I am not sure that some of that price is going to the workers.

Sorry for my pro labor views. I know while some may wear worker inspired clothing they don't mind corps paying workers crap wages, as long as they get a good price on their repro denim (chinese selvedge).

[lilldavid]

kinda hard to tell from that pic but they look like they have more of a wrangleresque double felled outseam

[Paul T]

I am sorry, if I haven't understood this correctly. But I am convinced that the LVC EU line made a '54 leather patch version too (in the 2004 collection, if I am not mistaken). The name was Rebel Rouser or something like that and it was a distressed model. I could find some pics, I think.

You could be right - I thought it was a 1955 501ZXX, which I've also seen raw, I don't remember it having a leather patch, but maybe I wuz wrong...

[cash]

kinda hard to tell from that pic but they look like they have more of a wrangleresque double felled outseam

I like this theory. Not to get all CSI on you ass, but, JohnnyReb lists his location as Georgia and the photo is obviously taken in Texas, it's safe to assume the family is Southern in origin (check out that hat and moustache). Blue Bell's North Carolina roots would have made Wranglers the "regionally available" denim wear. (However, in Texas, Lee jeans would be just as "regionally available" as its HQ was in Kansas City and by ’57 all three brands were marketed coast-to-coast). Anywho....

[Paul T]

Sounds like good detective work.. (Lee did manufacture in Texas, Missouri and san francisco). Wish I could see grandad's photo to venture an opinion, I'm getting nothing in Safari or Firefox.

[simontuntelder]

You could be right - I thought it was a 1955 501ZXX, which I've also seen raw, I don't remember it having a leather patch, but maybe I wuz wrong...

I found this ebay ad via Google, that is why it is from the dutch ebay branch... Anyways.

http://cgi.ebay.nl/LEVIS-VINTAGE-CLOTHING-LVC-1954-501-REBEL-ROUSER-BIG-E_W0QQitemZ220241645674QQihZ012QQcategoryZ1059QQcmdZViewItem

It looks like a leather patch. But I will see, if I can find some more information on it, if somebody is interested.

I think they also made a 501z called "Drop out".

[johnnyrebel]

cool history lesson, you guys know your denim. grandad was born in kansas but probably got the jeans after moving to california to build airplane parts for the war. i geuss he couldve picked them up anywhere though because hed often take the family on crosscountry road trips.

[Rob]

"Rebel Rouser" and "Drop Out" were both 1954 501ZXX, which I believe were precursors to The 551 ZXX and then the 505.

The LVC pairs were a very slim fit and had leather patches. The drop out had ripped knees and unpicked yoke seams.

[Paul T]

I've probably confused matters by saying there was a similar fit between the 54 and 55 - I was talking about the japanese 54, I believe the Euro ones were a new cut. And they were indeed precursors to the 551 and 505, which were Sanforized - zippers don't work well on STF jeans. The 551 ZXX is a great jean, sometimes I wonder if the fit was suposed to resemble Lee jeans of the same period.

I've just started wearing a fall 06 pair of Euro 55 - they are terrific jeans. Denim is notably different to the 47s once you've soaked them, bulkier, rougher and stiffer - they lose no indigo whatsoever on soaking, and are maybe more of a royal blue than the 47s. But sizing down by two inches (actual size) doesn't begin to make them as slim as the 47s... I think you would have to size down by 3-4 inches and use heavy machinery to stretch the waist, for them to be a slim fit.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

does anybody know the blue Tee from 2006 it is called "Ohio To San Fransico" I´m really

confused what it is about the FRANSICO, not really a typo!???

GOOD NEWS: There will be a rigid blanket lined Type1 jacket this FW season, the jacket I always was waiting for to come =)

http://images.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http://bp1.blogger.com/_pAoKTMT6I9I/R_YB80leViI/AAAAAAAAAIk/EXDCXH8DeJY/s400/levis_shirts.jpg&imgrefurl=http://oki-ni.blogspot.com/2008/04/levis-vintage-autumn-winter-2008.html&h=268&w=400&sz=28&hl=de&start=33&um=1&tbnid=lVRiXNw7Nu8c3M:&tbnh=83&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dlevi%2Bvintage%26start%3D18%26ndsp%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Dde%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:de:official%26sa%3DN

I would like to see the complete collection...

[chromium]

hi

i bought rigid 1920 and 1901 EU collection ,then after first soaked these jeans Its not shrinkage ,I 've just confused ??

Thanks

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

did you soak em in hot water? you better do so at least 60 degrees, better 90-100 to get full shrinkage...

[chromium]

i have rigid 1955 , 1947 , 1944 all shrinkage when soaked or washed in the first time

and these blue line selvage i got warm soaked only,It ' ve probably different denim ??

[Rob]

does anybody know the blue Tee from 2006 it is called "Ohio To San Fransico" I´m really

confused what it is about the FRANSICO, not really a typo!???.

I always thought it was a San Francisco typo, based on a T-shirt from the late 60s and not corrected to maintain authenticity.

That or the designer had been indulging in some of the "medicine" associated with late 60s hippies.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

really good thought Rob about that hippie-drug thing, but maybe Paul T got some more info on that, for he is a sixties specialist!? all in all it´s on of my favorite Tees!

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

chromium, I never had a pair of rigids that didn´t shrink, so I don´t konw what went wrong with yours... give another try, with boiling water, but beware that the leather patch could become jerky!

[Paul T]

really good thought Rob about that hippie-drug thing, but maybe Paul T got some more info on that, for he is a sixties specialist!? all in all it´s on of my favorite Tees!

Whaddyamean, sixties specialist? Okay, I've interviewed more hippies than is good for me. I guess they went for that spelling either cause they saw an original that looked like that, or because it looks more home-made and 'cool'...

Chromium, it's rare for raw jeans not to shrink at all, but there can be a huge difference in the results of one soak, across different jeans. If they were mine, and not TOO big, I'd simply wear them than give them a 30 or 40 degree wash six months in. Washing always shrinks jeans more than soaking does.

The problem might also be that they are simply bigger than you expected? Both my 201 and my 1901s are well oversized, i wear 201 in my actual waist size...

(more info on the 501 thread, http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=34010 )