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Levi's Vintage Clothing

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2 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

So did all the 555 55s use Japanese (Kaihara?) denim Charlie? What about the other Valencia St models, did any of those use Cone?

So the three original models that were released by Lvc, 1937 201XX, 1955 501XX and 1963 551ZXX were all made with Japanese milled denim - although from which mill l am unsure. These 3 models ran from 1996-99.

In 1999, Lvc released 2 new models for one run only, the 1944 s501XX and the 1947 501XX, both of which were made with Cone denim. All had the infamous 555 stamped on the backs of the buttons.

Between late 2000 and 2002, when the Valencia st plant shut, the only 501XX models produced for Lvc had added finishes/washes/patching etc; They were all 'limited' versions. But basically no raw 44s, 47s or 55s until the production was moved to the San Antonio factory (the last Levis owned one) where the only raw models produced were the 1944 and the 1955 iirc. These had the 554 stamp on the button backs. 

The only exception to the above was the (re)introduction of the 1937 model. This time though it was re-stamped as the 1937 501XX and was made with Cone. It was made at the  Valencia st factory for a short time (so 555 stamp) before continuing to be made at the Taylor Toggs facility in Greensboro NC (later versions of the model had 643M stamped) as did the 1901 model when it was introduced that year. From then on l think it was standard for all the post 1915 Lvc models to be made with Cone and any before that (excluding the 1917) to be made from Japanese milled denim, although the fugly 1927 model which l have a suspicion was made with non-cone(?)

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Some great information there Charlie, thanks for clearing that up as I was quite confused about the use of both Cone and Japanese denim for those early LVC models. It also clarifies that my 555 44s are Cone, albeit seemingly more substantial than some of the later versions.

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That's good info doc, I was trying to work out exactly when I got my '44s and that answers it.

Love mine, the painted on arcuate is such a nice detail.

LVC44.jpg

 

Gratuitous roping pic

LVC44a.jpg

 

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No problem Martin. Yeah l had a pair of those 1st run 44s. The (cone made) 1944 s506xx also came out in 1999. Your right, the denim did seem more substantial on the 1st edition 1944's and the 1947's of the same year, which is probably why they fetch high prices today (for Nos).

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@generic_guy yes they are superb and had the nicest painted arcs.

The only other real gem is the 2005 produced 1944 model, which had shirt striped material used for the pocket bags. Again, nicely considered arcs.

Lastly, Lvc messed up the 2008 run 1944's by using bright lylac paint for the printed arcs. This was rectified in 2009. But the aesthetic of the painted arc was changed with the lylac paint model and the arcs never regained their original template style. In fact, the wild pocket 1944 model l previously discussed had the derivative of that same template change which is probably why it so stetched out from the original. 

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On 1/23/2021 at 5:46 PM, Dr_Heech said:

It is mate. I purchased the size 34's and also a pair of 34's in the 44 model (the only other raw jean made there, for the one season, apart from the 506 jacket).

It was apparently the last Levis owned factory before the shift to the Taylor toggs facility in NC. 

I've only seen about 6 items deadstock from that factory production run in 7 years. Yahoo auctions maybe?

(I can help with any details if unsure, lemme know) 

How do you identify San Antonio's? I seem to recall that 524 was El Paso in the the 1990s. Not sure where 553, 643M or R come from. I have got some 1944s with colored pockets I the trouble with 1944s being that the inside of the pocket always showed. 

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7 hours ago, Dry said:

How do you identify San Antonio's? I seem to recall that 524 was El Paso in the the 1990s. Not sure where 553, 643M or R come from. I have got some 1944s with colored pockets I the trouble with 1944s being that the inside of the pocket always showed. 

I suggest you read the the previous page. San Antonio made jeans have 554 stamped on the fly button backs. The label for that run is pictured above. 

643M (only available on 1937 or 1901 models) was the first Taylor Toggs run, then 'R' was the next run or two (1955's, 1947's and the 506xx) - these ran between A/W 2003 and A/W 2004.

524 and 553 are American factories but no Lvc was made at either one.

Edited by Dr_Heech

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I was always under the imperssion that 4170 was also Taylor Toggs?! Had that on a pair of '47 from 2010 or so

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27 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I was always under the imperssion that 4170 was also Taylor Toggs?! Had that on a pair of '47 from 2010 or so

My Cone 1944's from 2010 also have 4170, which l believe was another American factory (Caitic? or something similar) - think it was first used around 2008 on the aforementioned lylac-arc 44s. 

I can remember no numbers on button backs (in the UK at least) for 2005 and 2006, then 233M for 2007 before 2008 and the 4170.

 

Edited by Dr_Heech

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My 1955s from 2007 have a blank button back.

They do have 643M on the internal wash label though.

Edited by Maynard Friedman

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10 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

My 1955s from 2007 have a blank button back.

Thanks mate, maybe it was just the 1927 model then. Another mystery. 

Edited by Dr_Heech
Dual personality disorder

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I have 1 pair of deadstock 555s some pairs of 554s (quite faint on button) and the rest are 643Ms with stripey pockets.

IMG_20210126_0836563.jpg

Edited by Dry
Error

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4 hours ago, Dry said:

I have 1 pair of deadstock 555s some pairs of 554s (quite faint on button) and the rest are 643Ms with stripey pockets.

IMG_20210126_0836563.jpg

Impressive collection of 44! My size too if you ever need to shift a pair 

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18 minutes ago, jewellben said:

Impressive collection of 44! My size too if you ever need to shift a pair 

Thanks. Not planning on shifting any at the moment - maybe if I stop working and need extra cash! There are 8 554s (3 x 34 36, 2 x 36 36 and 3 x 38 36) and 1 555 (36 38). The rest are 643M with stripey pockets. The denim is all a bit different even when from the same source.

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17 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

@generic_guy yes they are superb and had the nicest painted arcs.

The only other real gem is the 2005 produced 1944 model, which had shirt striped material used for the pocket bags. Again, nicely considered arcs.

Lastly, Lvc messed up the 2008 run 1944's by using bright lylac paint for the printed arcs. This was rectified in 2009. But the aesthetic of the painted arc was changed with the lylac paint model and the arcs never regained their original template style. In fact, the wild pocket 1944 model l previously discussed had the derivative of that same template change which is probably why it so stetched out from the original. 

Got this ,my wifes 44er ,i think from 2005.Nice denim and i like the shape of back pockets.    I bought this in pre wash if i remember correct.

 

IMG_20210126_160305.jpg

IMG_20210126_160359.jpg

IMG_20210126_160329.jpg

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On 14.1.2021 at 8:13 PM, JMS said:

I'm so sorry about the absolutely unaesthetic background... my house is shite. When I'm with my lady I'll make her take some proper photos. This will have to do for now!                                       same model, build in 1993, many wears ,a few washes,my fave denim jacket.

With/witout flash

 

 

IMG_20210126_183456.jpg

IMG_20210126_183428.jpg

Edited by Topnotcher

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@Dr_Heech that’s some good info there Doc. 
 

I sure would like an explanation why the denim recipe changed over the years. My early pairs of 47s (2006-2007) are noticeably different than any of my later 47 cones. 

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Thanks @Robroy - cant really be of any help post 2005 as l lost interest for the brand gradually after that year, buying maybe 5 more pieces up until 2010. Because of mistakes and inaccuracies, not to mention inconsistent sizing and quality, l turned to  makers such as Roy (Slaper) for cone and Japanese denim manufacturers like Sugar cane etc for everything else.

 

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On 1/25/2021 at 9:17 PM, generic_guy said:

That's good info doc, I was trying to work out exactly when I got my '44s and that answers it.

Love mine, the painted on arcuate is such a nice detail.

LVC44.jpg

 

Gratuitous roping pic

LVC44a.jpg

 

I like the colour, pocket shape and distance between the pocket stitching on these. The patch on my 0499 555s below shriveled which put me off them and I never got far with my 643Ms so I haven't got any faded 1944s.

16117562766153879814911365514928.jpg

IMG_20210127_1405495.jpg

Edited by Dry
Add pic

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Yeah, the patch on my 44's looks like beef jerky too.

Thought I'd do pics of my LVC jeans, forgive the poor quality it's very gloomy here.

LVC.jpg

Anti-clockwise from bottom right:

1901

1937

1937 (these are a bit too small atm)

1944

1947

1947

1954

1954

1955 (my absolute favourite jeans, stf so a size bigger than all of the others)

1967 (505s, too small for my thighs atm)

Wild cards in the middle are 605s (label is very unclear), non-selvedge and made with stretch but LVC and a pair of actual vintage selvedge 501s from late 70s

Edited by generic_guy
typo

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Levis UK has reduced a lot of LVC stuff, use 10extra for an extra 10% off, free delivery with Amazon pay. Few pairs of jeans for £78.

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@Topnotcher Fantastic fades! Mine was made in 96, '71506-XX'. 

Really wish it was easier to get a hold of LVCJ without the hassle of proxies. Yahoo auctions has boatloads. 

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I just realised that the 1984 jeans were in fact selvage. I assumed they weren’t, because of the wording in the description. 
 Is it any wonder, with wording like this?

 

  • An exact reproduction of a pair of 501® jeans from the early '80s
  • During this time, Levi's® was transitioning from selvedge to non-selvedge denim
  • Made with our classic straight leg and button fly
  • Twin needle Arcuate

no mention of selvage. Great wording, geniuses. That annoyed me because I would have bought a pair at the sale price but now my size is sold out.

Edited by andyrcii

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I think the second bullet point you quoted mentions ‘selvedge’ and a quick Google search would have shown images of pairs with it. 

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It says they were transitioning yes. But it didn’t  actually confirm if this model had selvage or not. They should have made it clear, not other sites.

Edited by andyrcii

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On 1/27/2021 at 2:05 PM, Dry said:

I like the colour, pocket shape and distance between the pocket stitching on these. The patch on my 0499 555s below shriveled which put me off them and I never got far with my 643Ms so I haven't got any faded 1944s.

16117562766153879814911365514928.jpg

IMG_20210127_1405495.jpg

I always assumed that CO in the inner label stood for Cone. While the size, date, year, model and factory are clear, what do the other figures mean?

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just bought some 1933 501s now.. These ones are raw but have been worn for “about a year” says the seller.

I decided to size up 2 inches on the waist so these will shrink down to my usual size (30”) as my taste has shifted to more roomy jeans (thanks to the 1955s).

Does anyone have experience with shrinking jeans that have been worn for a year, will they still shrink normally? Any advice, keeping in mind I need them to shrink some, but will be ok with a belt (those suspender buttons may have to go).. or maybe I’ll get them taken in, always an option. 

 

 

8ccd341368534126.jpg c9788f1368534137.jpg 0cec201368534146.jpg 

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