Westbrook

Acronym.

11,395 posts in this topic

@WillKhitie that's one of the reasons I love the stotz in the P10; they don't really pick up odors(I work in a BBQ joint and most everything else I own smells like a campfire) and you can easily spot clean them with a damp sponge. Every couple weeks, I'll soak them in the tub with a small amount of Bronners and drip dry. Need to pick up some Grangers before the fall hits to re-up the water resistance, now that I think on it...

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4 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

@WillKhitie that's one of the reasons I love the stotz in the P10; they don't really pick up odors(I work in a BBQ joint and most everything else I own smells like a campfire) and you can easily spot clean them with a damp sponge. Every couple weeks, I'll soak them in the tub with a small amount of Bronners and drip dry. Need to pick up some Grangers before the fall hits to re-up the water resistance, now that I think on it...

Dr. Bronners is my day job! At their headquarters right now... our castile is indeed a great product for garment soaking. Self edge would send out fridge magnets that broke down how to soak/maintain your raw denim and recommended Dr. Bronner Castile Soap by name.

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5 hours ago, brainerd666 said:

@WillKhitie that's one of the reasons I love the stotz in the P10; they don't really pick up odors(I work in a BBQ joint and most everything else I own smells like a campfire) and you can easily spot clean them with a damp sponge. Every couple weeks, I'll soak them in the tub with a small amount of Bronners and drip dry. Need to pick up some Grangers before the fall hits to re-up the water resistance, now that I think on it...

Just a bit of input - i remember an old post and I also recently had it confirmed again by someone from Stotz that a good choice for restoring water repellency on EtaProof is the Nikwax spray for waxed cottons. Just be careful to check how it affects the colour (prob more of an issue if your pants are green).

The way the Acronym labels talk about the "impregnation" of EtaProof is apparently a bit misleading as it just needs to be applied to the surface (rather than something like the Epic cotton).

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I find that restoring with nikwax/grangers seems to restore some colour after a wash,only issue is the smell lol

i always dry outdoors and proof when on the line

never had an issue recently but have learned the hard way with stotz ,very delicate fabric and less washing the better

but I also think they now use lighter weight material and handles water a lot better

dont ever machine wash IMO on new pants

i do on older pants that show real age and these look even better as they get older

Edited by greencarman
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2 minutes ago, greencarman said:

I find that restoring with nikwax/grangers seems to restore some colour after a wash,only issue is the smell lol

i always dry outdoors and proof when on the line

never had an issue but have learned the hard way with stotz ,very delicate fabric and less washing the better

Really? I had an old pair of P10-S that I had no problem throwing in the wash (delicate cycle, laundry bag, grangers) and then line-drying / reproofing. Generally speaking, it feels like people are a little too delicate with their ACR clothing..i mean, they are built to be hard-wearing.

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Time to re-write the info posts...

tweet.png

This also explains the P25-DS -> H then I guess..

Edited by Danwise
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Fixed it, even though we've already had the origin part.

Acronym FAQ:

Where do I buy these sick garmz?

See vendor thread, BST thread, eBay, Facebook BST, and Grailed.

When is stuff released?

SS20XX~Middle of March–Beginning of April, FW20XX–20XX+1 Middle of September–Beginning of October.

Do other sites carry 3A stuff?

Not since SS16. Only ACRNM.COM, drops intermittently in addition to around the time of general line releases.

Why is the retail price/resale so high?

Health-goth and athleisure is so last year—WGSN said techwear is in, duh. Supply and demand—that and the importers have to pay duties.

Can I get my duties down?

Look for Voyager's post in page ~355–360. If you have particular questions, you can ask me.

What do current names mean? XXX-X

Current Naming Convention for Garments:

1.    First X: (J)acket, (S)hirt, (LA) long arm/(KA) short arm, (ACRNM shirting), (P)ant, (H)at, (N)eck gaiter

2.    Second X: number design indicator

3.    Third X: (A)/(B) variant—A usually indicates additional features while B reflects pared down variants—these variants also do not suggest release recency (P24A preceded the P24), (T)ecsys, (R)accagni—could conceivably indicate revised but the jacket may have a generation indicator also.

4.    Fourth X: Fabric Supplier/type/origin designator (S)totz, s(CH)oeller works, (DS)dryskin, (GT)gore-tex, (WS) windstopper, (SS) softshell, (BR)ugnoli cotton, (C)otton, (PB)gore experimental shell, (K) Nemen experimental fabric, (MP) multiprene

Can you tell me about the comparable fabrics?

Pant Fabrics

CH: schoeller microtwill is cotton and aramid blend (mild fire resistance so as to qualify for protective clothing HS code)—some iterations treated with coldblack UV/heat protection.

DS: schoeller dryskin is nylon.

S: stotz etaproof is long staple cotton.

Fabric Qualities:

Weather Protection: S>CH>DS

Breathability: DS>CH>S.

Fabric weight is CH>S>DS.

Colorfastness: DS>CH>S.

Abrasion resistance: CH/S>DS.

Stretch: DS (4 way)>CH (2 way minimal)>S (none).

Jacket Fabrics

GT: Gore Tex Pro fully nylon construction, 3L microgrid backer, air permeable ePTFE membrane, nylon face fabric. 

WS: 2.5L fully nylon construction, air/water permeable ePTFE membrane backer, nylon face.

S: stotz etaproof is long staple cotton.

Fabric Qualities

Weather protection: GT>S>WS.

Breathability: WS/S>GT.

Colorfastness: GT/WS>S.

Abrasion resistance: GT>WS>S.

What do all these weird features mean?

ACRONYM INTEROPS: right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons

ACRONYM SOUND: cable routing for headphones.

ACRONYM TEC SYS: standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment.

ForceLock: Velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar

JacketSling: sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than the interior carry.

EscapeZip: YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper.

SpeedLock: shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull.

Gravity Pocket: two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion.

AuxZip: liner integration.

How do I wash this stuff?

Use technical fabric wash. It's water based and doesn't leave residue that affect the fabric characteristics.

Generally:

For jackets: single wash cold, double rinse.

For S/CH: single wash gentle cycle, no spin. Don’t reapply DWR, proprietary coatings.

For DS: single wash cold, double rinse. Don’t reapply DWR, proprietary coatings.

For GT/WS/S: Everything is DWR'd, this is a coating on the face fabric that allows the water to bead out. With abrasion this comes off, to reactivate wash, reapply, and depending on what DWR, tumble dry or iron. I use Grangers.

 

 

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Cheers @CARLOOA

He's well and truly thrown the cat amongst the pigeons with that!

S could very well mean Switzerland then? Because that tweet now rules out Stotz.

The P24-S is made in Switzerland, and LA6B-DS is also made in Switzerland (on acrnm.com).

So the D then... supplier or type, not sure.

Then the S6/7/9-C is made in Italy - so the C is a supplier/factory?

Mind blown!

Edited by Danwise
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13 minutes ago, Danwise said:

Cheers @CARLOOA

He's well and truly thrown the cat amongst the pigeons with that!

S could very well mean Switzerland then? Because that tweet now rules out Stotz.

The P24-S is made in Switzerland, and LA6B-DS is also made in Switzerland (on acronym.com).

So the D then... supplier or type, not sure.

Then the S6/7/9-C is made in Italy - so the C is a supplier/factory?

Mind blown!

Stotz and Schoeller are both swiss, I assumed it was (S)totz and S(CH)oeller. Dryskin is a fabric type, I guess? Unclear what Errolson means it isn't the fabric but can be type. I can't imagine WS means anything but windstopper or DS means anything but dryskin. Pure speculation, maybe PB denotes Putzbrunn in Munich where Gore offices/development are?

Edited by CARLOOA
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17 minutes ago, CARLOOA said:

Stotz and Schoeller are both swiss, I assumed it was (S)totz and S(CH)oeller. Dryskin is a fabric type, I guess? Unclear what Errolson means it isn't the fabric but can be type. I can't imagine WS means anything but windstopper or DS means anything but dryskin. Pure speculation, maybe PB denotes Putzbrunn in Munich where Gore offices/development are?

Or... Putzbrunn, Bavaria? (PB)

Do you know which town the factory is in Switzerland? Could explain the DS too...

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I know how exciting this fabric geek stuff is, but I would try to avoid finding logic in it. I believe they changed it over the time and it cannot make sense. Here are some changes (if I remember it correctly)

◢ they changed the order GT-J17 would be J17-GT now

◢ -CH fabric was called -SS (Schoeller Switzerland) but it was also a SoftShell fabric (but that would be too generic code imo

◢ -E stands for epic which is manufactured by Nextec (I doubt it's nExtec, when tehre is no -N)

 

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7 hours ago, danii said:

I know how exciting this fabric geek stuff is, but I would try to avoid finding logic in it. I believe they changed it over the time and it cannot make sense. Here are some changes (if I remember it correctly)

◢ they changed the order GT-J17 would be J17-GT now

◢ -CH fabric was called -SS (Schoeller Switzerland) but it was also a SoftShell fabric (but that would be too generic code imo

◢ -E stands for epic which is manufactured by Nextec (I doubt it's nExtec, when tehre is no -N)

 

How does the CH fabric feel in hand/on the legs? Only one I've never owned.

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Has anyone figured out the whole "patina" thing on the -PB material? It kinda seems like marketing speak for "gets damaged super easily".

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21 minutes ago, hoju said:

How does the CH fabric feel in hand/on the legs? Only one I've never owned.

fits right in the middle of stotz and ds imo

stotz - heaviest, fades, durable, no stretch, organic
ch - medium weight, fades less, durable, some stretch, blend
ds - medium/light weight, no fades but creases, less durable, 4 way stretch, man made(pretty damn comfortable)

Edited by Kamikaze
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ERLSN clarified:

SS is not CH

E stands for Epic but the microencapsulation technology, not fabric (just like gore-tex is not fabic)

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Anyone seen anything about pricing on the new drop yet Euro/USD ??

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Sell your kidneys and jiz type of pricing

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24 minutes ago, danii said:

ERLSN clarified:

SS is not CH

E stands for Epic but the microencapsulation technology, not fabric (just like gore-tex is not fabic)

Softshell is a fabric type also.

 

1 hour ago, hoju said:

How does the CH fabric feel in hand/on the legs? Only one I've never owned.

Recent runs, softer than stotz. Slight stretch also.

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41 minutes ago, GUNDAM said:

Anyone seen anything about pricing on the new drop yet Euro/USD ??

Well, the J53TS-GT sold for roughly $2800 in japan vs $1650–2100 in the US, this represents a 33–70% premium in JP. The J61-GT listed on Phaeton for roughly $2900, assuming that pricing change is the same, maybe a 4–5% increase on pricing maybe ~$1708–2174 for the J61-GT.

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12 minutes ago, CARLOOA said:

Well, the J53TS-GT sold for roughly $2800 in japan vs $1650–2100 in the US, this represents a 33–70% premium in JP. The J61-GT listed on Phaeton for roughly $2900, assuming that pricing change is the same, maybe a 4–5% increase on pricing maybe ~$1708–2174 for the J61-GT.

Nice one, can guesstimate now how many body parts i have to sell 

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Pardon the x-post but I'm lookin for an LC on these Bamboo Prestos:

Edited by nesherman
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@CARLOOA nice thanks. 

Too bad that'll be two straight seasons without some -CH pants.

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@hoju it is too bad. I picked up a pair of P10a's in CH a couple months back, and the first thing I thought upon wearing them was that this CH shit was probably based on some old school ninja shit. Hopefully we'll get some surprise p10s in CH this coming season. 

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