New and improved. Gen 1.4:
Where do I buy these sick garmz?
See vendor thread, BST thread, eBay, Facebook BST, various secret chat groups ;), and Grailed.
When is stuff released?
SS20XX~Middle of March–Beginning of April, FW20XX–20XX+1 Middle of September–Beginning of October.
Do other sites carry 3A stuff?
Not since SS16. Only ACRNM.COM, drops intermittently in addition to around the time of general line releases.
Why is the retail price/resale so high?
Health-goth and athleisure is so last year—WGSN said techwear is in, duh. Supply and demand—that and the importers have to pay duties.
Can I get my duties down?
Look for Voyager's post in page ~355–360. If you have particular questions, you can ask me.
What do current names mean? XXX-X
Current Naming Convention for Garments:
1. First X: (J)acket, (S)hirt/sweater, (LA) long arm/(KA) short arm for ACRNM shirting, (P)ant, (H)at, (NG)Neck gaiter, (SM)Shemagh
2. Second X: number design indicator
3. Third X: (A)/(B) variant—A usually indicates additional features while B reflects pared down variants—these variants also do not suggest release recency (P24A preceded the P24), (TS)Tecsys, (R)accagni—could conceivably indicate revised but the jacket may have a generation indicator also.
4. Fourth X: Supplier/type/origin designator (S)totz, s(CH)oeller works, (DS)Dryskin, (GT)Gore-tex, (WS) Windstopper, (SS) softshell, (BR)ugnoli cotton, (C)otton, (PB) Gore Film Out experimental shell—pure speculation but maybe this is made in Putzbrunn in Germany?, (K)omatsu Nemen experimental fabric, (MP) multiprene, (AK) Altiknits Cashllama, (PS) Powerstretch
Can you tell me about the comparable fabrics?
CH: schoeller microtwill is cotton and aramid blend (mild fire resistance so as to qualify for protective clothing HS code)—some iterations treated with coldblack UV/heat protection.
DS: schoeller dryskin is nylon.
S: stotz etaproof is long staple cotton.
Pant Fabric Qualities:
Weather Protection: S>CH>DS
Fabric weight is CH>S>DS.
Abrasion resistance: CH/S>DS.
Stretch: DS (4 way)>CH (2 way minimal)>S (none).
GT: Gore Tex Pro fully nylon construction, 3L microgrid backer, air permeable ePTFE membrane, nylon face fabric.
WS: 2.5L fully nylon construction, air/water permeable ePTFE membrane backer, nylon face.
S: stotz etaproof is long staple cotton; interestingly,functionally waterproof but not certified via standard permeation testing.
SS: schoeller wb400 soft-shell fabric.
Additional Special Fabrics
LP: Loro Piana doeskin with 2 layer storm system, on the J38-LP and J54-LP; wool face with membrane backer.
K: NeMen collab fabric on the J28 and J43, polyester/nylon/polyurethane blend, Komatsu membrane.
MP: "multiprene" nylon face with foam polyester backer, on the J55 and LA5.
PB: "film out" aka shake-dry, two variants one with flannel backer (J63) and one with gridded fleece (J62); key feature here is that the membrane and face fabric are integrated.
Jacket Fabric Qualities
Weather protection: GT>S>WS.
Abrasion resistance: GT>WS>S.
What do all these weird features mean?
ACRONYM INTEROPS: right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons
ACRONYM SOUND: cable routing for headphones.
ACRONYM TEC SYS: standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment.
AuxZip: liner integration.
EscapeZip: YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper.
Fast Hood: roll-in one piece storm hood with 3D collar ridge to don and doff quickly
ForceLock: Velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar
Gravity Pocket: two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion.
JacketSling: sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than only the interior carry.
SpeedLock: shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull.
How do I wash this stuff?
As a general best practice with performance technical fabrics:
1. Run the clean cycle on your empty washer.
2. Double rinse your washer if it’s old. Fabric softener and harsher chemicals can negatively affect material performance.
3. Use technical fabric wash if possible, otherwise use a water based detergent.
4. Zip up jacket and turn inside out to prevent buttons getting fucked and run not on hot.
5. Double rinse.
6. Hang dry.
7a. If you’re experiencing wetting out (when the water doesn’t bead), you may need to reactivate or redistribute DWR, keep inside out and tumble dry low heat or iron on low.
7b. If you’re experiencing wetting out still, you may need to reapply the DWR. if using spray, remove from washer, apply liberally, tumble dry if needed (some sprays don’t require heat to reactivate). If you used 2 in 1, tumble dry if needed.
What I do—YMMV:
Sell before you wash it, duh. Just kidding:
For jackets: single wash cold, double rinse.
For S/CH: single wash gentle cycle, no spin—don’t really want premature abrasion though generally these fabrics are pretty hardy. Manufacturer says proprietary coatings. DWR reapplication should be fine. I use a steamer to get the wrinkles out after air drying.
For DS: single wash cold, double rinse. Manufacturer says proprietary coatings. DWR reapplication should be fine.
For GT/WS/S: Everything is DWR'd, this is a coating on the face fabric that allows the water to bead out. With abrasion this comes off, to reactivate wash, reapply, and depending on what DWR, tumble dry or iron. I use Grangers.
For PB: since no outer fabric and no DWR is used no tumble drying or DWR is needed.