The Flat Head

[blooming]

Those look great @Signet! They give off a true workwear vibe without looking sloppy.

[chantheman]

3009’s 

[blooming]

Been wearing my 3009s a bit more lately. I'm starting to get those streaky fades down the front. They shed dye so easily, I wore a pair of white boxers underneath recently and they look like they went through a blue wash. TMI, but relevant .

[JDelage]

So, TFH is a brand I don't have in my collection and I'm thinking of trying to get a pair, maybe a deadstock / gently used pair on a Japanese auction site, otherwise a newly made pair in the wide-straight pattern (e.g., FN-3004). What do I need to know about TFH denim pants? If I understand correctly, they shrink quite a bit and are sized smaller than the label would suggest? Is that correct? I typically wear size 34 (my well-worn pants all have waist measurements between 33 and 36.5in).

What about their default denim vs their Zimbabwe cotton fabric? Other must-know about the brand?

Edited October 11, 2023 by JDelage

[reallypeacedoff]

Get any of the 3XXX denim, and you will not be disappointed! I looked on Franklin & Poe's site recently, but unfortunately, none of the cuts work for me anymore. I'd say that they really need to update their cuts if they wanted to become more relevant again. And by update, add an inch or two on the rises and thighs. Done.

I'd say 1.5" of shrink in waist, 3" in length, and you'll get an 1" of stretch after wear.

My SE05BSP (3XXX denim) after probably 3 years of wear.

Edited October 7, 2023 by reallypeacedoff

[indigoeagle]

Saw this good offer.
Wabash shirt, 12 oz, work and western.

This is an older version, I think.

Work shirt
https://item.rakuten.co.jp/myu-clothing/7014w/

Western:
https://item.rakuten.co.jp/myu-clothing/fds10/

 

[julian-wolf]

Hmm they have some of Denime listed for 50% off too, plus those great TFH sneakers

What’s the catch? Has anyone ordered from Myu before?

Edited October 11, 2023 by julian-wolf

[indigoeagle]

True

I thought first, it was just these two shirts.
Lots of stuff seems to be reduced.
There are also still some FH sneakers, and RJB belts, and some more.

Denime jeans are all sold already.

[Bobbo]

Love my wabash workshirt. Stubborn as hell, keeps the indigo so well. Guess I’ve had it for 10 years now? Highly recommend it 
 

[indigoeagle]

Looks really great.

How does the sizing work for you?
The 42 I could only wear open, I think.

[Bobbo]

20 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

Looks really great.

How does the sizing work for you?
The 42 I could only wear open, I think.

Have to check it to be sure, but I think it’s the same size I wear in almost all Japanese brands. Fits really well for me

[indigoeagle]

The workshirt has a shoulder to shoulder of 46cm (18.1 inches) in the 42 - most shirts would have a pit to pit of around 56cm (22 inches) then.
This one has only 51cm (20 inches).
That is the typical design that TFH had in shirts, relative wide shoulders.
I think, in recent years's models they had changed that.

[JDelage]

Got a 3004 from Rivet & Hide. Excellent service, as usual. I sure like those arctuate better than the blue fake suede.

 

[reallypeacedoff]

^ Jealous! 3XXX denim has to be one of the grail denims for sure.

[1fookntitefd]

12 hours ago, JDelage said:

Got a 3004 from Rivet & Hide. Excellent service, as usual. I sure like those arctuate better than the blue fake suede.

 

How did you size? Any fit pics?

[JDelage]

It's one-washed and R&H has a size chart. I went for size 36 (I'm usually a 34). I gave it a cold wash and a hot dry, and I'm hoping it's done with most of its shrinking. I can take measurements if it's useful. 

[1fookntitefd]

18 minutes ago, JDelage said:

It's one-washed and R&H has a size chart. I went for size 36 (I'm usually a 34). I gave it a cold wash and a hot dry, and I'm hoping it's done with most of its shrinking. I can take measurements if it's useful. 

Yes please post measurements!

[JDelage]

Fit pics:

 

[JDelage]

Waist: 84cm, front rise: 32cm, back rise: 43cm, thighs: 33cm, knee: 24cm, inseam: 84cm

Edited October 18, 2023 by JDelage

[1fookntitefd]

Those fit pics and measurements look good....but a size 36 waist went down to 33 inches even after it's one was state??

[JDelage]

Yes, but note that this is just after a full cycle of hot drying. It was wider when I received it and it has not stretched at all because I've only tried it on & took pictures, so there's at least 1" worth of stretch. 

[Cold Summer]

Nice fit! I'd probably get them hemmed or cuff, but the leg silhouette and top block look great.

[indigoeagle]

So the shirts from Myu have arrived. A legit shop.

As expected the work shirt, which I got in 42, fits quite small. The Western shirt, which I got in 44, a bit bigger, but still quite slim arms.
With the fabric stretching a bit it should be ok.
They still seem to have some according to the rakuten shop page.

[JDelage]

8 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

Nice fit! I'd probably get them hemmed or cuff, but the leg silhouette and top block look great.

I'll get them hemmed (although those have some of the shortest inseam I have seen from a new pair).

[Cold Summer]

Interesting little find I made looking at 2ND's site, they have preorders up for a new model that's part of the S/S 2024 collection, the FN-S2003.

This looks to be a revival of the 3003 model inspired by WWII jeans, with a few changes. Like the 3003 these will have painted arcs, a rivetless coin pocket, laurel leaf top button. However, these will be made from TFH's 12 oz denim (presumably the same unsanforized one from my 7002W denim shirt), and have pocket bags from various leftover shirting fabrics, which is a cool touch. Like all new TFH jeans they'll be around 35,000 yen, which seems a bit ludicrous, but at least the yen exchange rate is pretty low right now. I've always felt the 12 oz denim is pretty underrated, despite the lighter weight it seems to be a little hairier and more uneven than the 14.5 oz denim.

Another thing I found is that from spring 2024 onward, the 3005 will no longer use the ultrasuede arcs, and will no longer have the double-stitching around the front pocket openings and back pockets. The latter change is a bit disappointing, despite the high price these are essentially going back to the same features as 3005s from 2013 and earlier, aside from the patch design.

[Cold Summer]

On 10/7/2023 at 4:54 PM, reallypeacedoff said:

Get any of the 3XXX denim, and you will not be disappointed! I looked on Franklin & Poe's site recently, but unfortunately, none of the cuts work for me anymore. I'd say that they really need to update their cuts if they wanted to become more relevant again. And by update, add an inch or two on the rises and thighs. Done.

There's still some old stock of the 3012 model floating around, assuming one of these sizes works for you, which is roomy in the top with a strong taper. This model kind of flopped when it came out ten years ago, it didn't really suit the tastes of Japanese denim nerds but would've been a hit with the Reddit crowd about five years later.

[reallypeacedoff]

1 hour ago, Cold Summer said:

There's still some old stock of the 3012 model floating around, assuming one of these sizes works for you, which is roomy in the top with a strong taper. This model kind of flopped when it came out ten years ago, it didn't really suit the tastes of Japanese denim nerds but would've been a hit with the Reddit crowd about five years later.

I'm heading to Tokyo next week, so TFH shop is on the list. I think if I were to purchase another 3X denim, I might go for a more roomy fit to see how that would fade (compared to my SE05BSP). I'm thinking the 3004 most likely.

The 3012 fit looks to fit exactly the same as my Nudie Steady Eddie II albeit a slightly smaller leg opening. If I can find a cheap pair online, definitely would cop, but with shrinkage, I'd imagine I need to find a 38.

[Geeman]

1 hour ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I'm heading to Tokyo next week, so TFH shop is on the list. I think if I were to purchase another 3X denim, I might go for a more roomy fit to see how that would fade (compared to my SE05BSP). I'm thinking the 3004 most likely.

The 3012 fit looks to fit exactly the same as my Nudie Steady Eddie II albeit a slightly smaller leg opening. If I can find a cheap pair online, definitely would cop, but with shrinkage, I'd imagine I need to find a 38.

The shop in Dakiyama, near the station and Saint James shop is (or was when I was last there)  nicer than the one near Harajuku 

Plus you have 45rpm, UES and Blue Blue Japan quite close by. 

[Cold Summer]

2 hours ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I'm heading to Tokyo next week, so TFH shop is on the list. I think if I were to purchase another 3X denim, I might go for a more roomy fit to see how that would fade (compared to my SE05BSP). I'm thinking the 3004 most likely.

The 3012 fit looks to fit exactly the same as my Nudie Steady Eddie II albeit a slightly smaller leg opening. If I can find a cheap pair online, definitely would cop, but with shrinkage, I'd imagine I need to find a 38.

The 3004 looks like a great fit, main thing stopping me is that the inseam isn't real long. I used to wear real slim fits like you but nowadays I'm quite happy in more classic straight type fits like the 3005.

Speaking of which, I'm still wearing my JDM 3005s almost every day, they're up to four months of wear now and just starting to come alive. Might take some pics soon. I've managed to keep them clean despite constant threats from my two kiddos and various other hazards of dad life. I also need to share pics of my 6002W jacket, which I'm wearing roughly every other day, and some other nice Japanese auction site steals I've picked up.

[Cold Summer]

3005s at four months of wear. Happy with how these are looking so far. Another few months and they ought to really be nice.