The Flat Head

[itsbenhere]

Thanks man! Like a lot of flat heads stuff the jacket is somewhat of a tricky fit. Larger shoulders and smaller sleeves like normal, although I like that they made the body less slim than their old jackets used to be. Honestly I think that some of the models I've seen on this jacket don't look great because the thinner people wear small sizes because the body is relatively big, but the sleeves are way too short on them. On the other hand, people who need size up a bit will have shoulders that look super dumpy. Works great for me though!

[bootsofmannishleather]

Hey folks! I'm new here. Was told this was the place to be, as I'm getting more into denim recently. Here are my TFH 3005s (~215 wears, 26 washes at this point). This was the first pair I really took to, despite trying like 20 pairs of other raw selvedge jeans prior.

[reallypeacedoff]

3XXX denim is just another level. Period.

[MJF9]

@bootsofmannishleather nice entrance to the forum... welcome!

[bootsofmannishleather]

@MJF9thanks so much! So glad to be here finally

[bootsofmannishleather]

Heeeeeyo! I have 3005s in size 32 from Franklin and Poe, and they're amazing, but I want slightly narrower legs (8.5" or so leg opening) with slightly deeper top block (higher front rise mainly, though a tad bit more back rise is good too - maybe 11.5" or 12" front rise). There's some room for flexibility with the knee and thigh measurements. After months of washing and wearing, here are the measurements on my 3005s:

Waist - 16.5” (33”) 41.9cm (83.8cm)

Front rise - 11” 27.9cm

Back rise - 15.5” 39.3cm

Inseam - 31.5” 80cm

Thigh - 11.5” 29.2cm

Knee - 9.25” 23.5cm

Hem - 9” 22.9cm

 

Should I look into 3004 or 3009? Or just straight up go with another brand? It's hard to gauge cuz the STF process isn't perfectly exact. If another TFH jean, which of the two might be best? I'm just not familiar with 3004 and 3009, how they ending up looking and feeling when worn. Thanks!

[Cold Summer]

Sizing up on the 3009 might get you closer to the fit that you want. 3004 is more relaxed than 3005, so while you'll get a longer rise the leg might be a bit looser. But I think it has a little bit of taper, so maybe not? Not real familiar with that model since it's newer.

[blooming]

3009 is definitely a bit lower in the front rise than you're looking for, I'd say they are mid almost bordering on low. 3004 is probably closer to what you're looking for.

[bootsofmannishleather]

Thanks guys! @Cold Summer

@blooming

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Have you tried to put your numbers into the Self Edge jeans finder? Sure it will only give you brands they carry but maybe it's still some help

[bootsofmannishleather]

12 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Have you tried to put your numbers into the Self Edge jeans finder? Sure it will only give you brands they carry but maybe it's still some help

Thanks! I actually JUST discovered this yesterday, so your suggestion is totally on point. What I may actually do is just keep getting jeans like the 3005 or Warehouse 1001 on the large side and shrinking them slightly for the perfect measurements. Been looking at TFH, Warehouse, Fullcount, Samurai, TCB....As of now, my 3005 and 1001 both fit pretty well, and I'm trying to fade them diligently.

 

[1fookntitefd]

Anyone buy a pair of flathead’s lately? Is the role of thumb to stop size up two or go tts now?

[blooming]

I bought my 3009 TTS in a size 31, and the waist was incredibly snug at first. Sizing up one is probably a good idea if you're not a masochist like me.

[1fookntitefd]

1 hour ago, blooming said:

I bought my 3009 TTS in a size 31, and the waist was incredibly snug at first. Sizing up one is probably a good idea if you're not a masochist like me.

Did it stretch back to raw or get a little bigger?

[blooming]

I bought them one-wash, but they did stretch a bit in the waist and are comfortable now. I think what I also didn't consider when I bought this pair was the lower rise, meaning they sit at/below my hips which made the smaller waist even tighter at first. Depending on the cut you are interested in, this may not be an issue for you at all.

[Cold Summer]

After spending the last few years in a couple of Warehouse pairs (and some time in the Samurai S3000vx), I'm ready to get back to my roots with Flat Head and fade my 3005-14s I bought new off Yahoo Auctions maybe three years ago.

I put about a month of wear into these at some point but now I'm going to make this my main pair for the next year or so, with the totally modest and reasonable goal of producing the best faded Flat Head jeans in the solar system, using my fine-tuned technique of going 6-9 months before the first wash to get some nice contrast, then just washing whenever I need to after that. Since the initial "no-wash" phase is going to mostly be taking place during the cooler months of the year, should be pretty easy to keep clean. My goal is to try to mostly wear these jeans through at least the end of next summer.

It'll be interesting to compare to my first pair of 3005s that I washed roughly monthly over 14 months of wear. Those turned out okay and have a lot of life left but I've always been a bit disappointed and wish I'd tried the monthly-wash regime on a slimmer fitting pair that naturally forms creases/contrast more easily. What I'm really curious to see is how the double-stitched front and back pocket edges hold up, if they're really more durable than the traditional single-stitch. FH started sewing like this around 2014 or so, with the idea that the cotton stitch layer will fade/shrink/pucker, while the poly/cotton layer will maintain durability.

A couple days back in these jeans I'm enjoying all the things I like about Flat Head: the wooly, dark denim, the stitching and hardware details, the terrific fit. I wouldn't mind if the front rise was as long as my Warehouse pairs, but still, this is a straight-leg fit done right. There are plenty of other brands I enjoy but I always seem to come back to Flat Head's denim. I find it disappointing how much they seem to have dropped out of denim nerd consciousness these days, as I'd take this denim over hypebest turbo-slub 29.3 oz Onis any day.

[julian-wolf]

^ Looking forward to seeing how those turn out

My S2004 are the prettiest and best-fading jeans I’ve ever worn, and they’d be an easy choice for all-time favorites if it weren’t for the low rise and small front pockets

[mpukas]

@Cold Summer great to see you getting back to your roots, lol. Looking forward to seeing how the jeans evolve.

I'm still a TFH die hard fanboy. I'm wearing my 3009's, THC black, and newer heavy western denim shirt as it's chili this morning. Everytime I wear something else, I just want to come back to TFH. 

[Cold Summer]

Same. There are other brands I enjoy, but TFH feels like home.

Something I'll share soon are some of my Japanese auction site finds. I've gotten several shirts, long and short sleeve, at great prices, that I don't think I've ever shared here. I actually just snagged a like-new looking 6002W denim jacket in size 44 off Yahoo Auctions, for a great price, and based on the posted measurements it should fit perfect. I'm not too crazy about the denim jacket I've been wearing and have been looking out for something new, and this should be just right.

[Cold Summer]

Here's something I've wanted to do for a while: start sharing some of my Japanese auction site finds for Flat Head stuff. I've picked up various items from Japanese auction sites, usually in great condition and for excellent prices. Let's start with a recent one:

Flat Head CW-42HW Jacquard Short Sleeve, Size 42

I'd estimate that this shirt is about fifteen years old. Bought for very cheap from Yahoo Auctions Japan. Really nice peachy color that looks great for spring/summer. I've owned two of these shirts before (in the long-sleeve version) and it's a really special fabric, one of TFH's trademark shirts from their mid-late 2000s heyday. 

This particular example is in good condition, with only two very minor blemishes on the front, which you wouldn't find unless you were specifically looking for it. It feels broken in, but with tons of life left. Especially nice is that the Universal Gripper buttons still snap hard, with no sign of wearing out like on cheapo western shirts.

The fit is great, nice length and neither loose nor wide through the body.

 

[Signet]

im starting to wear another pair of 3005  now i sized up for the loose low rise relax fit , lets see how this pair goes!- edie

[pat0]

30 minutes ago, Signet said:

im starting to wear another pair of 3005  now i sized up for the loose low rise relax fit , lets see how this pair goes!- edie

Waiting to see the fit pics 

[Cold Summer]

Flat Head Palms Label Polo Shirt

Another dirt-cheap Yahoo Auctions Japan find, this is from Flat Head's long-defunct Palms Label, which mostly was used for their Hawaiian shirts. This one has a nice pattern to it, and looks (to my eyes) very much like a vintage shirt. It's in good condition, with just a little broken stitching near the back collar. This shirt is quite different from anything else I wear, so I guess it adds some variety to my wardrobe. I'm not sure exactly what fabric it's made from, but there are no side seams, so it might be loopwheeled. Either way, it feels nice.

[Signet]

IMG_5661.HEIC

IMG_5662.HEIC

[MJF9]

Ed, the HEIC files need to be saved as JPEG for the pics to be visible. I noticed my phone had started saving as HEIC and it's made posting a faff.

[Signet]

oh shoot thanks man!

 

here are the photos

[Signet]

[Signet]

these are a size 38 !

[Cold Summer]

Looks like a good fit - I'd hem them a bit, but otherwise, pretty classic 3005 fit, and proof they still look good as you size up.

[Signet]

need to hem off maybe  3 inches