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On 5/26/2020 at 7:16 PM, mpukas said:

It's mainly the waist measurement that changes in different sizes. Sure, rise and thigh measurements are scaled accordingly, but they don't change as much as the waist. If the waist is too small on your pair, and the thigh and rise are good, then sizing up 1 won't increase in those measurements that much when you wear them. And, if you increase the waist size, they'll probably ride a little lower, and be at the same level as you're pair are now. For me, regardless of rise, high or low, my jeans always end up just slightly below my hip bones. Unless of course if they're ultra-low rise and they don't even make it that high, lol. 

Neph on the IH forum has given out this good advice many times, that a cut should be chosen by the thigh measurement first, then decide on your waist size. If the thighs are too small for you size, sizing up will only make the waist too big. 

The only cuts that come to mind that I can recommend looking at are Samurai's S510 - it's a wide in the thigh and hips compared to the waist, with a medium rise, and straight leg; PBJ 019 straight tapered cut; maybe Tanuki's tapered cut if you want low rise and taper, but they are very low rise and very tapered. Tanuki's Regular Straight cut thigh's aren't that big, but it's a good cut. OD has worked w/ SDA on a relaxed tapered cut, but it looks really tapered. Otherwise maybe the guys more knowledgeable about repro models can give advice about a fuller leg cut, and you could get them tapered... 

This is good advice. I do size for thighs, but perhaps I'm paying too much concern to rise. Finding the right thigh to waist ratio is what I need. Think I need to try on my next pair in person, whenever things go back to normal.

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On 5/26/2020 at 6:34 PM, reallypeacedoff said:

You just gotta keep wearing bro. 60 wears would be where I run if I'm sure it isn't gonna work. They look good on you—and I get the pain—but that is raw denim.

After a few years you could get them to look like this. Trust me, a lot of work and at one time I thought the same thing.

DSCF1949.jpg

DSCF1953.jpg

Those look amazing. Maybe I will give them some more time before making the final decision, or bite the bullet and size up because I really love this fabric.

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Posted these in their own thread but figured it would be good to in here as well

Self Edge X Flat Head SEXFHXRR10's

20200401_235512.jpg

20200401_235525.jpg

20200401_235550.jpg

20200401_235558.jpg

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Posted (edited)

@space_cowboy See the post above, I got exactly the same model.  If you’re willing to soldier on, waistband is bound to stretch w/ wear.  Of course, that depends on how much stretch you’re looking.  From experience, up to 2” is possible on a LHT Zim.

Here’s an old trick that might help, meantime:

• cold soak the top block for a bit
• carefully hand-stretch the waistband, like on the Levi’s patch:biggrin: ... unbuttoned, to make sure u don’t pull against the top button cuz you’ll pop it.

• button up

• stick a hanger [or anything that corresponds to desired waist] @waistband ... let dry.

Next time, before u soak, make sure u prop up the waistband with the same gadget  [hanger or w/e], so as not to allow the waistband to snap back to its original ... let dry. 

Repeat the process, when soaking, until the denim softens up & become more pliant from wear. 
 
Cheers!

Edited by BrownMetallic

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Posted (edited)

Yeoman’s job @stresMaldo  ... I’m not even half-way on mine :rolleyes:

 

Edited by BrownMetallic

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7 minutes ago, BrownMetallic said:

Yeoman’s job @stresMaldo  ... I’m not even half-way on mine :rolleyes:

 

Nice man, wish I had grabbed a second pair. Definitely my favorite pair that I've worn thus far.

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Thanks!

Got mine like mint condition from a member, but were stuck in a “holding pattern“ for years ... IIRC @ColdStorage who has moved on doing other pursuits ... sorry CS, if that’s not U :ph34r:

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2 hours ago, stresMaldo said:

Posted these in their own thread but figured it would be good to in here as well

Self Edge X Flat Head SEXFHXRR10's

20200401_235512.jpg

20200401_235525.jpg

20200401_235550.jpg

20200401_235558.jpg

Damn Maldo ain’t with the BS props on the grail jeans. 

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Real talk: Has ringring ever come forward with his identity? Completely fascinated to learn more (haven't seen Warp And Weft btw)

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, aho said:

Real talk: Has ringring ever come forward with his identity? Completely fascinated to learn more (haven't seen Warp And Weft btw)

Good question. I had spoke to him a couple times just messaging about this pair of denim but as far as his identity, I personally don't know who he is.

I remember years ago, around the time this pair came out, a couple of folks that were more plugged in behind the scenes seemed to know who he was though.

Is Warp And Weft a film or something? Gonna have to check it out

Edited by stresMaldo

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33 minutes ago, stresMaldo said:

Good question. I had spoke to him a couple times just messaging about this pair of denim but as far as his identity, I personally don't know who he is.

I remember years ago, around the time this pair came out, a couple of folks that were more plugged in behind the scenes seemed to know who he was though.

Is Warp And Weft a film or something? Gonna have to check it out

lol yeah tried to google search and found that he was apparently in the documentary:

https://www.heddels.com/2012/01/exclusive-interview-10-questions-for-warp-wefts-devin-leisher-mehdi-ahmadi/

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IIRC, his face was blurred out though. But I think @Foxy2 knows who he is. At least he wrote his true name some years ago in some thread on here :D

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:rolleyes: Thought I’ve read here somewhere, awhile back  ... RR stands for Renzo Rosso, the Diesel guy.

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@BrownMetallic Thanks for the tips! Will definitely try this out. So far the waist has stretched about 1", if I can get another inch of stretch like you say, I think I'll be sitting pretty.

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^Btw, what’s the tagged size, actual waist measurements before wear & current...

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44 minutes ago, space_cowboy said:

@BrownMetallic Thanks for the tips! Will definitely try this out. So far the waist has stretched about 1", if I can get another inch of stretch like you say, I think I'll be sitting pretty.

Easy, just ride your bike in them a couple of times.

Those RR are epic. Always bummed to miss out on that pair but they were pretty $$$ at the time no? $550+?

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1 hour ago, BrownMetallic said:

^Btw, what’s the tagged size, actual waist measurements before wear & current...

31 tagged size one washed, 31" before wear, about 32" now.

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^Yup, another inch is definitely doable.

Just keep wearing ‘em ... [it] will come.

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22 hours ago, BrownMetallic said:

@space_cowboy See the post above, I got exactly the same model.  If you’re willing to soldier on, waistband is bound to stretch w/ wear.  Of course, that depends on how much stretch you’re looking.  From experience, up to 2” is possible on a LHT Zim.

Here’s an old trick that might help, meantime:

• cold soak the top block for a bit
• carefully hand-stretch the waistband, like on the Levi’s patch:biggrin: ... unbuttoned, to make sure u don’t pull against the top button cuz you’ll pop it.

• button up

• stick a hanger [or anything that corresponds to desired waist] @waistband ... let dry.

Next time, before u soak, make sure u prop up the waistband with the same gadget  [hanger or w/e], so as not to allow the waistband to snap back to its original ... let dry. 

Repeat the process, when soaking, until the denim softens up & become more pliant from wear. 
 
Cheers!

That's a good tip/technique. But honestly, IMO, that's a royal PIA to have to do everytime you wash them. And, I think, if you have to go that extent to keep the waist from shrinking too much to be wearable, then they're a size too small. The waist will stretch according to how much stress to subjected to, so a 32 won't stretch as much as a 31, over time. It'd be a lot easier just to size up 1. :wacko:

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Posted (edited)

@space_cowboy you might look at the iron heart 633 14oz. Very roomy thighs, reasonable rise and modest taper. Denim isn’t the most interesting out there, but with enough wear it will still look great. I have a size 32 I could measure for you if that would help. 

Edited by SuperJackle

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On 5/30/2020 at 9:12 AM, mpukas said:

That's a good tip/technique. But honestly, IMO, that's a royal PIA to have to do everytime you wash them. And, I think, if you have to go that extent to keep the waist from shrinking too much to be wearable, then they're a size too small. The waist will stretch according to how much stress to subjected to, so a 32 won't stretch as much as a 31, over time. It'd be a lot easier just to size up 1. :wacko:

Homemade waist stretcher. Just mod a bar clamp. I got mine for about $11 at my local hardware store.

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It's been a life saver buying online. Just button up, stretch gently to desired width after washing (YMMV - depending on how good your hardware is. I haven't had a button break yet, but then again, I don't buy jeans with tin buttons). Let air dry. I follow the earlier advice and just purchase to thigh size (which you can't stretch out). I've had no problem stretching waist measurements to at least pre-soak widths.

One caveat. Don't use this trick to size down on a straight fit in an attempt to make it a slim straight. Patterns are graded for a reason. If you want a slim straight jean, buy the right cut (ie. Don't cop a cheap pair in the wrong cut during a sale thinking you can just stretch the waist. Won't work, and now there's a ruined pair of KMW 2010 that's probably still hanging in a thrift store somewhere...)

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Sorry, as this is a TFH thread.

5100XX 10th anniversary (the only pair of TFH I still own - now retired to the closet).

kWrkOyv.jpg

QckWC0c.jpg

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15 minutes ago, indigo_junkie said:

I follow the earlier advice and just purchase to thigh size (which you can't stretch out).

Why shouldn't you be able to stretch out the thighs? Sure, they won't stretch much from natural wear, but this whole conversation's about how to go out of your way to make jeans that don't fit into jeans that fit—building a thigh stretcher similar to the waist stretcher you've got yourself there would be very straightforward

Of course, buying jeans that fit in the first place will always be the simplest option…

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Posted (edited)

Caveat:

1st considerations when buying a quite expensive pair of jeans, if i’m not familiar with the brand, is to research pertinent info regarding sizing & shrinkage.  Like what @julian-wolf said,  buying “jeans that fits in the first place ...” is the simplest way to go  .. the golden rule.  Having in mind that, what u want & what fits are 2 different things.

I wouldn’t advice “stretching” before copping a pair.   I only gave my 2¢ cuz @spacecowboy   got & wearing his pair already.

We’ve all been that road before ... once [raw] touches water &/or u put wear on them, U lose a chunk of the resale value.  
 
So, between resell & sizing up or buy something else versus giving it a try ... either way, it’s an “expensive” lesson to learn ... money wise or time/effort wise ;)

Edited by BrownMetallic

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27 minutes ago, BrownMetallic said:

I wouldn’t advice “stretching” before copping a pair.

Absolutely. Stretching the waist is not a solution to lack of research or bad purchasing decisions. But buying online, based on the measurements off a stock pair with the different ways a pair can be measured, if it turns out that all you just need to do is to stretch out the waist a little to make them a good fit, it's often times an easier solution than to resell. 

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1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Why shouldn't you be able to stretch out the thighs?

Waist bands are cut along the grain from a single piece of denim, is designed to allow a little stretch. The same can't be said of the leg of the jean. Even if you could get a clamp in there, you risk busting the outer seam of your jeans before you get any noticeable stretch. 

But you're right, the simplest option would be to buy jeans that fit in the first place.

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48 minutes ago, indigo_junkie said:

Waist bands are cut along the grain from a single piece of denim, is designed to allow a little stretch. The same can't be said of the leg of the jean. Even if you could get a clamp in there, you risk busting the outer seam of your jeans before you get any noticeable stretch. 

I was gonna say the same thing - the waist band is cut lengthwise to the weave, and will stretch more in that direction than parts of the pants that are crosswise. 

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Yeah that's def. fair—you're right that the thighs wouldn't stretch as much as the waist, even if forced

This whole thing still seems kinda convoluted though

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