The Flat Head

[givemefive]

all the fit pics I have seen look pretty good, except the one on the SE site. That model even makes the Dry Bones red-d look weird which is a really great jean.

here's the one a few pages back if you missed it

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/10622-the-flat-head/page-356#entry3206676

but I found a lot from Japan on google image.

Edited February 17, 2016 by givemefive

[Cold Summer]

Haha, none of those look as off as the fit pics of the 3Sixteen ST-120x.

 

I miss Sidney's fit pics on SE, IMO they gave a much better idea of what the jeans were supposed to look like.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

^ true but the current model could be seen as an average Westerner and I think this is also SE main clientele. So it makes sense to show how these jeans fit "the average Westerner"

[Max Power]

Yes, i thought the same. And took the discussion to blunders.

Edited February 17, 2016 by Max Power

[TbickSTL]

Hey guys, I will try to get a fit pic up after I have them hemmed. Just not sure I'm ready for my debut on the sufu catwalk   

I agree I wish the leg opening was closer to 7.75 or 8" and they would be perfect.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Review of The Flathead 3009

 

Last week I received the TFH 3009 I bought from the Rakuten shop Frisbee. Transaction was very easy and smooth with Rakuten checkout. I wanted a pair with the Japanese arcs before the introduction of the ultra-suede arcs. If I only found 2 shops carrying the 3009 in size 36 so I thought I better hurry up. The model I bought and receive is the 2014 model with the double stitched back pockets and front pockets. The 2014 model costs 29,000 Yen and the new 2016 version with the ultra-suede arcs will run for 32,000 Yen. With shipping and customs I paid pretty much the same amount I would have buying from Rivet&Hide or from Vater&Sohn. But I wanted the Japanese arcs, personal preference.

 

 

The fit

I bought a size 36 and expecting them to run true to size pre-soak which they did. This would lead to a good fit at the waist with a bit of stretch. All measurements were as expected; only the rise was lower than I thought resulting in a more modern top block. In the top block these 3009 remind me a bit of Samurai S5000. The 3009 has a significant taper and all in all I have a rather slim fitting 3009 which is not restricting at all. I can lift my legs as high as my body allows and I can bend over without any problems. Since I wear a belt, bending over doesn’t result in a plumber’s crack.

I soaked these jeans twice and then machine washed them without detergent and skipped the spin. I think they are 95 % done with shrinking. But see measurements below.

All in all I would say it’s a mid-rise slim tapered fit.

 

 

 

After one day of wear:

 

 

 

Measurements (pre  /post)

 

Waist: 36 / 33,7

FR: 11,25 / 10,4

BR: 15,5 / 14,5

Thigh: 13,5 / 12,5

Knee: 9,8 / 9,1

LO: 8,6 / 8,2

Inseam: 35,75 / 33,125

 

The fabric

The Pioneer denim surely doesn’t need an introduction. It’s been around for years and there are many fading examples, ranging from the crazy high-contrast fades to the more vintage fades. Based on how you treat those jeans. Because of the strong vertical fading (“fallingâ€) I expected quite rough and textured denim. But the denim was the total opposite! In its raw state the surface of the denim felt so smooth and sleek, when I put them for pre-soak fit check the inside felt silky like they were coated with some stuff. All in all they reminded me of a sanforized fabric. From pics and specification the Pioneer denim sound similar to Eternal denim but Eternal denim has a stronger textured surface.

Fortunately, the denim changed a lot after wash. Now it has a dry and rough feeling when you touch it, the slubs came out a bit and the hairiness started to show. Although I soaked twice and machine washed them the fabric was still very stiff after it dried. The indigo tone is very deep and has a purple hue. I fail to remember how my Eternal looked when new but they might have been darker but without the purple hue.

In my opinion the strong pronounced vertical slubs give the denim a quite engineered look. Denim from Fullcount and especially Warehouse has a more “natural†vintage denim look to it. But I am not sure if TFH claims to be an accurate repro brand. It’s more repro inspired with its own twist.

 

Edited February 23, 2016 by beautiful_FrEaK

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The details and construction

The jeans have the typical repro detail from selvedge coin pocket over hidden rivets, chainstitched hems, V-stitch, leather patch, raised belt loops, etc.

 

 

Hardware

Details are the things where Flathead is extremely strong. Like Samurai they are filled with little details but TFH is not as loud as Samurai. I really like the iron buttons and the engraved back of those buttons. I was very surprised though to see that my size 36 on has 4 buttons in total. I expected 5 buttons and I am sure older issues of the 3009 featured more buttons. The copper rivets are nice, too.

 

 

 

Threads and stitching

The vast majority of the used threads are brown. Only the double stitching use brown and lemon stitching. A little more color would have been nice. The SPI is relative high but I have seen higher SPI on other brands. Threads of different strengths are used depending on the points of stress. Nicely done. The double stitching is a very nice detail and done with a cotton thread and a poly-cotton thread with the purpose of added strength and durability. On the front pockets that is not necessary for me, why? See below.

On my right front pockets the double stitchings a little wonky/not aligned but I don’t complain about that. It’s a complicated thing.

 

 

Assorted details

The belt loops are raised and also the top of the back pockets is raised. The top of the back pockets is raised more than on any other brands I have encountered. I think there was a discussion about how the Japanese brands focus on some vintage details and exhaust it to the max. Flat Head definitely does this here. The leather patch is made of a solid goat skin. Not exaggerated thick and not too flimsy. Just right. But the printing is rather bland.

The printed pockets bags look nice and sturdy but they are rather small…but that doesn’t really matter as the pocket openings are so hard to access I probably won’t use them at all. So the double stitching might not come to its intended use.

 

 

 

Construction

The overall construction is very high but I would not put them at the very top of brands I encountered so far. Also with TFH you have some loose threads on the inside and I found the belt loops of my Ooe Yofokuten executed way cleaner than on TFH with their "Atu Mesu"-technique. Durability will be proven over time.

It's unfortunate that the front pockets are so hard to access but the opening are simply designed too small.

 

 

 

 

Conclusion

Overall I am very happy with the TFH 3009. They have a nice slim and modern fit with a crunchy and dark denim that has already shown its potential. My main complaint are the front pockets but I usually don't put stuff in my front pockets so I can live with that.

The level of construction is very high and I am curious to see how well the double stitched back pockets will hold up.

Edited February 18, 2016 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Cold Summer]

Those look awesome b_F! Are these your first Flat Heads?

 

Yeah, FH has a real problem with the pockets being too tiny. I don't understand why they don't make bigger pocket openings. 

Minor correction: the patch is goatskin, not deerskin (though I love deerskin patches.) Some models like the 3005 use cowhide patches, I don't like those as much.

 

Now you just need to wear these jeans nonstop for the next year and get some truly sick fades.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks! And thanks for the head up about the leather. The fit is already improving and at the beginning they felt borderline in the inseam but it gets better now ith a little sag and the fabric softning up.

 

Yes, my first pair of Flat Head jeans

[volvo240thebest]

BF your the man when it comes to reviews. Nobody in this board could even try to match your high standards. a scientific review from a denim scientist! weiter so herr BF!

[1fookntitefd]

That's a ton of shrinkage. You lost over 2 inches on the waist!? Holy moly!

[TbickSTL]

Fully agree about the front pockets...wish they were cut a bit bigger.

[dwilson123]

Yeah the pockets are hard to use and the actual bags are pretty flimsy as well

[itsbenhere]

Awesome, that's a perfect fit!

Agree with you guys. The only things I'd change are to make the front pockets more accessible (even though I still wouldn't use them, don't like the fades) and make the button holes narrower. They stretch too easy and the button slips out a lot.

[dwilson123]

Hm thats interesting Ben I've never had my buttons come undone.  Are you talking about the waist button or the fly?

[bod]

The cotton / polycore over-stitching is a bit of a OTT solution, why they couldn't have just used a single polyester thread with regards to durability. (I have a pair of 3012's with this detail). 

 

Edited February 18, 2016 by bod

[itsbenhere]

When will flat head do the subtle thing though?

Wilson, it's the fly buttons. There's no tension and they just kind of flop out of the buttonhole. I've been thinking of reinforcing them to make them smaller, but haven't gotten around to it.

[karanimal]

When will flat head do the subtle thing though?

Wilson, it's the fly buttons. There's no tension and they just kind of flop out of the buttonhole. I've been thinking of reinforcing them to make them smaller, but haven't gotten around to it.

 

I like how flat head does things, the new suede arcs are a bit much tho....

 

Ben, i ended up ordering a SDA 14oz work shirt, couldn;t find a 7002w in a 46, denimio says they will order that size for me whenever Flat Head does another run 

[Max Power]

Great, great Review b_f. While some of the Details you wrote about make me absolutely want to get me a pair, I fear the measurements will not work out. Just like the 1002 was too small in 36 I fear the 3009 will be, too. Maybe I'll get a Chance to try a 38, but right now I'd fear they rund just a bit too small for me.

 

(And the usability of pockets is a pretty important part for me as well. I wouldn't mind if I already bought a pair, but now as I know it and am spoiled by UES and Resolute, it's a minus in my book.)

Edited February 19, 2016 by Max Power

[Cucoo]

Isn't the 3009 the same cut as the F380? I have the latter in a size 30 (TTS) and FWIW I have absolutely no problem with the front pockets, 100% usable.

[Cold Summer]

The F380 has much larger pocket openings compared to the 3009. Also - contrary to popular belief - the cuts aren't actually the same, the F380 is more of a straight leg fit compared to the 3009's taper.

[Cucoo]

Alrighty!

[Rightyow77]

might have to cop a pair of FH 3009. I might size up to a 31.

 

If I want a 10" rise I think that's my best bet. My old 29 tag ones were pretty spot on every where except for the waist and thighs, top block was pretty roomy, but that f'n rise! shrunk from a 10 to a 9.5" which is basically low rise territory.

 

Debating... I still have these 800s I haven't even soaked might just save them in the closet...

 

decisions 

[lsaylor]

might have to cop a pair of FH 3009. I might size up to a 31.

 

If I want a 10" rise I think that's my best bet. My old 29 tag ones were pretty spot on every where except for the waist and thighs, top block was pretty roomy, but that f'n rise! shrunk from a 10 to a 9.5" which is basically low rise territory.

 

Debating... I still have these 800s I haven't even soaked might just save them in the closet...

 

decisions 

I am a true 30 and I went with a 30 for my 3009's. That was a mistake, as you say the waist, thigh and rise are a smidge uncomfortable. I will need to buy another pair at sz 31 and they will be perfect . I was surprised how much they changed after they hit water.

[clt3]

I'm also looking at buying a pair. I'm thinking the 3005. Should I get a 31 if I want a 29 waist? I was thinking a 29 and stretching it 1 inch would be perfect.

[Rightyow77]

yeah i went ahead with a 31. The rise measurements are so tiny, I like wearing mine kinda low so we shall see.

[Maynard Friedman]

The rise is what makes FH a no-go zone for me. If it was an inch higher, I'd still have my 1005s and second pair of F350s but I had to sell them 'cos I knew they wouldn't work for me.

[itsbenhere]

Maynard, have you tried the 3003? Supposed to be like a '47 cut I think.

 

I've actually never heard of anyone with the 3003...

[Maynard Friedman]

Here's a 3003W - WW2 pair:

http://tfh.flat-head.com/modules/flat_head/index.php?content_id=721

I think the 1015 uses 16oz denim but has a higher rise than the 1005 as it was made for bikers I believe.

[Blue Nemo]

Oi!!

 

i am working on a TFH tuxedo, anybody knows anything about that jacket? measurements, fit, etc.?