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I mentioned recently that I had found a pair of jeans unexpectedly on Yahoo, they arrived last week: Slash Overalls S01XX. I've been a big fan of his work since I've been following him online for a few years, even bothering him via DM and email asking if he'd accept an international order. He's not set up to accommodate international orders yet, but maybe he'll be able to someday. Going through a normal proxy isn't viable since his jeans and jackets seem to sell out very quickly. So I was surprised to see these in BNWT state (you can see some residual chalk markings from where he was putting them together), unwashed and in my size for under retail! Honestly I debated posting photos of these, he's very opposed to resellers (there's a post on his blog about it), even banning anyone from purchasing again if he tracks down the serial number and ties it back to the original order. So hopefully I'm not shaking the hornets nets. It's hard to figure out what exactly these are (since he doesn't disclose the serial numbers), but I'm guessing they're a late 40s inspired pair. They even have a similar wonky stitch across the coin pocket similar to the recent SC45s. The denim is nice and hearty, and the stitching is pretty interesting. I'll need to get a better photo of the crotch construction, it's pretty interesting. The enamel coating on the buttons is pretty intense, even compared to FW. The backs of the buttons are also slightly indented along the top and bottom, hard to photograph but just an interesting observation. I'll probably keep these raw for awhile since I'm focusing on wearing other pairs pretty consistently right now, but it's nice to find something that I thought was unobtainable.17 points
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Finally took my one of a kind hand made embroidered denim vest to the tailor to be altered. Short people problems. Perfect length now. This old Coke jacket will be next. Temporarily pinned and cropped by about 3 inches. Looks great now. Fortunately the zipper was about 4 inches shorter than jacket itself. Barlesoni Homburg Old Coca Cola delivery jacket Vintage Embroidered Denim vest Destroyed 40s bandana Bootleg Westwood SEX Tee Teacore belt w/ brass buckle Wide Selvedge Denim Antique Cowboy Boots15 points
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I'm a bit of 506 nut as some of you may have guessed and while I wasn't short of jackets to work on, I'd had in mind a Slash Overalls one for a while and won a BNWT/raw one at auction (having previously been outbid on a WWII model). Seam puckering is pretty awesome after a soak, which is really Slash's thing. Fit is close to my platonic ideal for a 506- shorter body length than Freewheelers or SC 1945, right amount of dropped shoulder, sleeves are bang on, and its fitted but not as slim as my Neat Style/Denim Bridge (although it's a size larger than the Neat Style to be fair) - hoping it doesn't change much with subsequent washes. Raw vs soaked The white buttons stand out enough I think my co-workers might actually notice its a different jacket (think the last couple have all passed for being one and the same) Think I got a bit enthusiastic rinsing under the tap after soaking and got some staining from the patch... don't want to wash again yet so it'll stay for now13 points
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Yep for sure! .. i did a little WH denim jacket flick book, everyone can look at that progression and say 'that's the perfect stage for me' and rarely is that stage within 6mths of them going in the bin I've always been a '1 pair of jeans at a time' guy, i've never rotated even between summer and winter, i start a pair and wear that pair till they fall to pieces which was usually within 12-18mths.. bin them and then start a new pair.. it's only this last year or so of changing track that i wish i still had piles of nicely worn denim instead of taking every pair through to the bitter end.4 points
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Thanks! I believe all of his models are listed as "S01XX", so I don't think it really is a tell either way. The denim is pretty dark, here's another photo on a different, lighter background.3 points
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In a curious conflict I was told by S+S that the black anniversary jeans follow typical OA sizing - which is in opposition to the above description. They told me this info was straight from the duo themselves and that they were going with their normal OA size. Black OA jeans were one of the few bucket list items I've concocted for myself that I will get if issued no matter the timing (another is if they ever redo the cossack jacket), so I pre-ordered a pair with planning them to shrink FROM tag, as per usual for OA jeans. I won't be shocked if I have to modify my order.3 points
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I never really noticed much difference between the jeans which i worn at home and the jeans which i worn at work.. In fact, I bought 2x pairs of CSF-46s, wore one pair for work and the other for home.. if you check the CSF thread, you'd be hard pressed to see which was which, the only giveaway being small spots of paint, surprisingly maybe... the pair i wore for home turned to rags long before the pair i wore for work For 15yrs i would get up in the morning, pull on a pair of fancy Japanese jeans, drive to work, change into a different pair of equally fancy jeans, work in them for 10-12 hrs/day, change back into 'home' jeans and drive home, my evenings/weekends were either spent out in the woods, hiking, bike riding, wild camping and such.. always wearing fancy jeans, in all conditions, snow, horizontal rain.. no jeans have ever lasted me longer than 18mths, most were fked after a year. When i first started taking this approach (i previously wore fancy jeans at home till they were semi-fked, then wore them to work) The UK had a really strong currency.. we were getting almost 2 dollars to the pound, a Euro was less than 70p, Japanese consumption tax was 5% and more importantly, the proxy services would declare a low value so a pair of fancy Japanese jeans was a cheap commodity here in the UK.. Unlike today, the value of our currency is fked and fancy jeans are very expensive. I'm not saying i didn't enjoy watching my jeans wear and evolve but once i'd done it for 15yrs.. i wasn't really gaining anything from continually repeating the experience of just burning through jeans every 12mths (sometimes, i would buy them, wash them to get shrinkage out, wash again at the 6mth mark, wash again at 12mths and that was it.. they were fked) .. I started cycling to work.. that alone destroyed a pair of CSF within a few months so i stopped cycling in jeans and i stopped wearing fancy jeans to work.. i'm currently wearing a pair of £35 vintage Carharrtt carpenters for work, which albeit vintage have already lasted 4 times longer than my £300 RMC.. I've been commuting on my bike in the same pair of trackpants for 4yrs.. the CSF lasted literally months before the arse fell through. I can't really say 'i'm saving money' because i'll only blow it on some other crap but whether i'm spending that money on.. bike bits, music, food or whatevs, i'm enjoying those things a lot more than just destroying pair after pair of expensive denimz.3 points
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This is a fluffy piece of documentary but I enjoyed it nonetheless. Some of the designs he’s come up with over the years really are just so good.3 points
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Dryers are not at all popular here in the UK, it's almost tradition to line dry!.. we've never owned one, i don't actually know anyone who does own one.. maybe folks in large appartments with no outside space. I've always line dried (in the winter when it never stops raining, we have 2x Sheila Maid's which we hoist up to the ceiling) I always wash outside out, simply because working with fine particles of wood dust, the dust / dirt sits within the outside surface of the jeans so when i turn them inside out.. you end up with a whiteish, slimey substance, something akin to mixing flour and water from where the wash has lifted the wood dust away from the surface of the denim but the rinse cycle can't wash it away becasue it's trapped within the cavity of the inside out leg.. after a wash.. they would need a second rinse outside out, so i just started washing outside out.2 points
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Talking about wabash- there is also an interesting indigo wabash corduroy fabric. Fullcount have recently issued a few items made out of it like a cap, pants and chore coat. A few years ago also Colimbo and Sugarcane had some pants. Fullcount: Colimbo Waterloo EZ pants Sugarcane CORDUROY WABASH TROUSERS2 points
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Congrats- nice find. The "S" would indicate a 1945 version. But the stitching on the back of the fly is quite neat, perhaps 1946? Is the denim more dark or more blueish?1 point
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Very, very cool pickup. Their jackets are some of the most appealing that I’ve seen, but I’d never looked much at the jeans before. They seem great!1 point
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They are all tagged as 12oz denim so i assume its the same. I'd say they shrink a full size, but check this thread for more detailed meassurments1 point
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I saw this from a Standard and Strange sales associate about the black 20s pair. it sounds like the product description once they’re up on the site “S&S x Ooe 10 Year Anniversary Jeans: These are cut with a tall mid-rise (right at the border of what we'd consider high-rise) as well as plenty of room through the seat and thighs. The legs are straight almost the entire way down, with a silhouette and details that were inspired by a pair of jeans from 1935 — the same year that the original Ooe Tailor Shop (run by Ryo's grandfather) was founded. It's a comfortable jean that goes with almost anything, a really classic shape that's not exaggerated in either direction, flatteringly relaxed without being too baggy or oversized. The denim is special, as Ooe almost never produces black jeans. Woven from 100% cotton yarns, it's a raw and unsanforized (shrink-to-fit) black & gray selvedge denim with a soft hand and a slightly hairy face texture. Produced exclusively for Ooe by a small mill in Japan, it's a low-contrast dark denim that will slowly develop fades throughout similar to an indigo denim (though these fades will be less dramatic than indigo, and will take a longer time and/or more wear to develop to a similar level). It's packed with old-school details, from the two-prong buckleback to the 100% cotton thread used throughout, with exposed copper rivets, iron suspender buttons around the waistband, and a classic five pocket configuration. The fly hides a special little embellishment, with the inner piece being cut from a dark indigo denim hidden behind the outer black/gray fabric. This funny detail is a nod to the very first pair of jeans Ooe made — having found a stash of deadstock denim hidden away in the back of an old warehouse, they pulled what they believed to be a dark indigo fabric that was by their admission very hard to distinguish from black denim. This ultimately led to the accidental blending of multiple different fabrics during production, a humorous and memorable experience that has shaped Ooe's work to this day. These are an unsanforized aka "shrink-to-fit" denim. They will come in by about 10% during the first few washes, depending on the temperature of the water and how the jeans are dried. On average, this shrinkage amounts to approximately ~2 inches in the waist and ~3 inches in the inseam. Be aware that exact post-wash measurements can vary depending on how the denim is washed and dried (temperature and method). The sizing and fit on these is notably different to previous runs of Ooe denim. While other runs of Ooe jeans are sized by their raw measurements (for example, a pair tagged as size 32 measure to 32" in the waist before a wash, and then to 30" after washing), this run is tagged by size after a wash — so a size 32 measures roughly 34" in the waist before a wash, and then 32" after washing. In short, previous runs shrink from tag size, and this run shrinks to tag size.”1 point
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I made a very impromptu trip down to Santa Fe (from Denver) on Friday. Apologies to the group I didn’t even think to give a heads up until I was already heading back home. The 10th anniversary S&S/OOE pair they have for pre-order is black unsanforized denim with some loosely interpreted 20s-ish details; black warp white weft, cinch, suspender buttons (metal), belt loops, crotch rivet, exposed back pocket rivets, and white cloth patch. The patch was blank, so who knows what that will end up looking like. They told me the cut was more/less a modified 03 with same-ish top block (hip ever so slightly narrower) and still has the straight leg, but ever so slightly narrower from the knee down than standard 03. I neglected to take photos of them, but here’s a snip from the S&S SF IG1 point
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3 and half years ago after a fair bit of chat and a lot of encouragement from my mate @Flash I started making belts with some purpose. The purpose was that I had retired to look after my little girl who has multiple disabilities and in intervening hours I wanted to do something to slow down brain atrophy coupled with the fact that I’d bought a Warehouse belt which transpired to be shit. Since then, and much to my very genuine surprise, I’ve now made a little over 200 belts … slightly better than 1 belt every week. That’s the extent of my ‘business’. Each belt is made to the requirements and specifications set out by the customer. Each belt is made entirely by hand - no electrically or manually operated machines whatsoever. Skiving, edge bevelling, burnishing and the like are done according to how I ‘read’ each piece of leather being used. I have never made the same belt twice - some are similar, but respectfully that’s down to the request and invariably there will still be fundamental differences. Because every belt is different, there is no easy way (or wish) to standardise the process or materials. This also means I cannot easily plan ahead or take advantage of cost savings in ‘bulk’ purchasing. In terms of the money I ‘make’ from this enterprise - I charge exactly what I pay for any materials and add the honest number hours labour (at UK minimum wage). If I take a picture of a belt - I’ll normally display it here, and post it on IG (if the owner allows). I guess that can be considered as advertising but I don’t look for new opportunities or sales. If I’m asked, I’m asked, if I’m not then it makes no difference - I’ve just explained that it’s not a source of income that makes any substantive impact on household income, even if it was predictable. Because Standard Rivet has closed down I can no longer replenish my studs/spots, so my ‘business’ will soon close down … that should be good news to Miho at ACE But anyway, thank you to everyone who has trusted me with their hard earned, I hope I’ve never let you down.1 point
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I guess a lot of folks don’t know I’ve been quietly collecting Ooe for 10-15 years, trying to pick up one of everything they make. These pants were definitely a bit of a stretch, but I’m so glad I got them. Maybe one day I’ll try and post a pic of my collection. The one thing I’m missing is the melton wool vest they did about 10 years ago, if anyone knows where I can find a 38 let me know!1 point
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When my kid was 13mths old we took him to Clarks to buy his very first pair of shoes (also pasty-esque) The staff take a helluva lot of care to get the correct size, they give you a little booklet on how to care for your toddlers feet and even take a photo of them wearing their new shoes, with their name and the date.. Good old Clarks!1 point
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So, I've looked again into the different types of denim by WH for the years 30-50s. Besides the well known banner (7x7, ca. 13.5/13.75oz) and Memphis cotton denim (6x6, 14.5oz) there are at least three different other ones. 1. The new denim, WWII denim. I think, this was first introduced with the 25th anniversary pair S1001XX (1946) (perhaps earlier?). This denim is not DSB and has an orange selvedge. It's 6.7x6.6, ca. 14oz. And quite coarse. The relatively recent Duck Digger Lot S1003XX (1944 MODEL) (with the flannel pocket bags) is also of that denim. 1946 model: 1944 model: 2. Then there are two DSB. Both have a pink selvedge. I guess, the idea is, that same as the denim has changed by oxidation in the decades of the storage, the selvedge lines have also changed. Same with the tab, which is also pink in some pairs. The suffix (1000XX) seems to indicate DSB. For jackets (2000XX). a) the lighter one 7.5x7.5 ca. 13oz Used for example for the 1953 and 1954 pairs. Also for the Lot.2001XX(2000XX) blanket lined jacket and the 1936 model. b) the heavier one 6.7x6.6, ca. 14oz. The Lot S1003XX(1000XX)【1942MODEL】is made of this denim. 1942 model:1 point
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