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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/26/25 in all areas
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First time outside with the newest addition to the family. Rototo / Engineered Garments / YM Factory / Sugar Cane / Hoka15 points
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I feel like enough people probably have pairs from Rockets now and that there is enough chatter about them in the Unknown Japanese Brands thread that they can get their own thread. There is also limited information on the brand that I could easily find, so it would be nice to have it documented as best as possible here. Most of the information below comes from their website and some chatting with Kato-san. Rockets have been around since 1994 (which is actually longer than Warehouse, the last of the Osaka 5) and were founded by Yasunobu Kato. However, it's unclear to me if they have been producing denim since the beginning. They've historically offered a 1937 cut (0003xx model) a WW2 cut (this s0001xx model), a 1947 (0002xx model), and a 1966 cut (SB-100). Kato-san can also customize a pair for you to cover some of the transitional early war models. WW2 models are offered with either olive HBT or chambray pocket bags. There are also several models of WW2 era jackets with various details, including with and without pocket flaps, although I do not know much about these since the sleeves are too short for me. The primary claim to fame and specialty of Rockets has been their WW2 models and their denim which is known for its heavy lap fades and whiskers. The phrase "Tiger Moustache" on their patches refers to the way in which these whiskers resemble those on a tiger. Kato-san has spent years analyzing vintage fabric from the era to best replicate it, matching the yarn count of the era. It's unclear where the denim is milled. According to the owner Kato-san, the yarns used in the denim have been dyed more than 12 times, so the denim is very dark and will be slow to fade compared to Warehouse or new Denime. After a wash, the denim is a very dark blue that is almost grey/black in appearance with a gritty and coarse handfeel. It creases easily and quickly gets some electric blue highlights, so I can see how these jeans get such pronounced whiskering. In talking with Kato-san, the 1937 model uses the same denim as the WW2 models sold by Rockets. I'm not sure about the 1947 model (although I would guess that it's also the same) and I'm very unclear what is used for the 1966 model (not sure if I've even seen a photo of a pair). Four types of cotton thread are used to sew the garments: No. 30, No. 20, No. 8, and No. 6. The waist is seen with thick No. 6 and No. 8 threads, while the selvedge is sewn with No. 6 thread, consistent with Kato-san's vintage models. The hem is wrapped in four pieces as was typical for vintage pairs prior to the 1960's. Threads are dyed orange and yellow based on estimates for the era. The dyes used on the threads are also selected for low fastness, so they will fade along with the denim. Rockets models also come with a red rayon tab labelled "Venus". The tab is designed to twist significantly after washing. Rockets also owns 3 Union Special sewing machines Rockets have also taken a lot of care to reproduce the style and character of buttons and rivets and buttons of the era. Laurel donut top buttons are used for the WW2 pairs, while iron body buttons are used on the 1937 and 1947 models. WW2 models with chambray pocket bags seem to use iron body buttons for the rest of the fly, while donut buttons are used for the fly of the HBT versions. All buttons are iron and are designed to rust. Front pocket rivets were designed to have a diameter of 10 mm, consistent with vintage rivets. According to the Rockets site, most front rivets used by other brands are 9 mm in diameter. Two types of front rivets are used - copper and iron plated. Hidden rivets are a non-standard shape to capture the shape of those seen on War models. Rockets hand stamps their hidden rivets into the desired shape and then hand engraves them. Rockets offers several versions of their models. There is a standard version where all hardware is new. There is also a "Craft" version, where you can select to use already oxidized hardware. Rockets also offers a "Tailor Made" line of models that are more expensive than their standard "Factory Made" models. Taylor Made models are about 15,000 yen more expensive. The 1937 model seems to be sold as Taylor Made with a claim of being sewn on a vintage machine. I chatted with Kato-san, but I wasn't quite able to learn what this meant in terms of final product, so I just went with a standard model for myself. I will try to add some more details and edit as I have time and learn more. I will also try to locate and cross-post some of the stray pairs found in the WW2 and Unknown Japanese Brands threads here too as I find the time11 points
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Some details from the Rockets site are pasted below. All taken from Rockets's site. Thorough dissection of original jeans. Ordering needs to be done by Instagram outside of Japan however (probably only thing that I've used IG for personally). Custom stamped and engraved hidden rivets: Twisted tab Front button Front rivets 1937 model cinch9 points
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Some years back I read a piece online by a guy who was breaking in a pair of 35 ounce denim jeans. The first day he'd attempted to do some kind of a mild hike in them and found that the backs of his knees were bleeding. Apparently the jeans were breaking him in rather than the other way around...7 points
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Recently besides their 105 and 107 OrSlow had released a 101 Dad's fit jeans. Now there is also a 101 Grand Dads Fit. Apparently 12oz. There is also one by Full Count. In their super smooth 11.5oz denim.6 points
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IKR.. i despair for the deminworld.. i love this place, it's one of the last few genuine communities on the interwebz but pop your head out from under the sufu rock and the denim world is just fucking hideous.. from comical Instagram fakery to superficial denim blogs to click-baity youtube vids to .. well i wouldn't even know how to describe Reddit .. it makes me ashamed to be part of it. There is no wonder that^ shit sells6 points
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We took our daughter out to the local wildflower center near our house yesterday, hard to believe she's already 3 months old. I've had a hard time documenting much lately, but I'm working on it! Before and after one of our pups got a (long overdue) haircut. Keeping watching during playtime. I've got a bunch of fancy sneakers but somehow I always end up back in these ones from Catchball. Seen a guy at one of our local coffee shops wearing some wide FH's and Paraboots.4 points
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I'd imagine they broke a lot of machines creating them. Probably the repair costs passed on to whoever buys these. #denimflation3 points
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That's a pretty epic error haha. I did the same thing once ... in college costuming classes. We all learn! Also I had heard from a buddy that the 40 oz'ers would be ~$900, but over $2k is beyond imaginable. I'll have a hard time taking seriously anyone who ends up with a pair, kinda like that 7Titans brand that came thru reddit a bit ago. Reddit was where I was introduced to raw denim, but sufu is where I've built my taste.3 points
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I purchased the V1A in black. I am pleased with the purchase. The collar is comfortable and I think it's designed so it works with a hoodie. In black on black the shape of the colour is not as noticeable as in the grey version. some people don't like it but . . . . A couple of cautions though: 1) the vest is described as stretchy . . . it doesn't stretch significantly; 2) it is described as wide, but it's not as wide a fit as recent ACR offerings. I typically wear an XL in a straight fit and I purchased an L in the Vest and it fits fine. As far as price goes . . . ?3 points
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I met Brandon years ago, nice guy. A lot of their stuff is more of a gimmick than anything, he's just seeing how far he can push boundaries. Years ago I worked at a shop that sold them and I can't tell you how many pairs we received with buttons / rivets falling off, weird pattern issues, one pair even had the front pockets sewn shut.3 points
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I saw these and couldn't help but chuckle. Weird Guy - Super Heavyweight 40oz Selvedge | Naked & Famous Denim – Tate + Yoko Take a look at the patch (30 oz of cowhide): The owner gave them a ringing endorsement: "Naked & Famous Denim Owner, Brandon Svarc, likes to joke 'Guaranteed uncomfortable or your money back.'" They are also perversely shrink-to-fit with only the loosest of shrinkage estimates and in a slim tapered cut which feels like a recipe for fit disaster, especially at $2000.3 points
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The weight of the patch is so incredible, it's pulling the back of her jeans down2 points
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Cross-post of my chambray pocket bagged s0001xx before washing. Cross-post of that same pair (including measurements) after washing.2 points
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That belt loop detail is whack, looks to be on all of them. And what's with the belt loop being in between the front suspender buttons? There's a few other details there that haven't been flagged up on original examples. Typical lvc 'artistic license syndrome' imo. And yes the stitching looks to be poly.2 points
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Thanks... got them in 2021, had some hard wear for a couple of years, then more occasional after that as just too many other pairs on the go and my TCB Viktor's Voice got more of the light oz/ warm weather wear.2 points
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with a retail $495 they don't resemble the original idea of the No. 2 pieces... they feature a somewhat strange belt loop position, at least for 501 predecessors https://hypebeast.com/2025/3/levis-vintage-lot-release-info2 points
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I was telling the boy about pre decimalised currency yesterday “before 1971 and long before I was born there was 240 pence to the pound.. but even when I was a kid we still had 1/2 pence so half of 1p” “I’ve got some old money in my toolbox at work, I’ll bring you a 1/2p coin home” When I gave it to him, he said “oh I thought it would look like a 1p cut in half.. sort of half moon shaped? “2 points
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It’s funny how AI means natural when it comes to indigo dye but artificial when it comes to intelligence.2 points
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^ Some people think that about jeans full stop. Hence the proliferation of slobs in athleisure attire (the sportaci get a pass on this) 😆1 point
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Man, old messenger bags always look so cool. I've made a couple, but nothing I'm particularly happy with. Like there's something about the simple design I can't quite capture and make my own. Lately I've been making a couple of my cash and card wrap wallets. I'm sort of thinking about making some kind of store where I just put stuff to break even and can continue making whatever I want whenever. Not super hopeful about it working out, but I'm willing to try.1 point