SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)

[Flash]

Realy, i payed on friday must be because of the weekend

thanks mate

[GEToutHOEits6AM]

Hey guys I'm about to buy a pair of MIJ diors 19cm but I need to know the right size to get. I wear a size 33 in naked and famous weird guys and they fit pretty snug agaisnt my thighs. I'm hoping somebody owns both pairs and can give me some insight. Thanks in advance, any advice is very much appreciated.

[Bradapalooza]

Hey guys I'm about to buy a pair of MIJ diors 19cm but I need to know the right size to get. I wear a size 33 in naked and famous weird guys and they fit pretty snug agaisnt my thighs. I'm hoping somebody owns both pairs and can give me some insight. Thanks in advance, any advice is very much appreciated.

If you can't try them on order the 33. If they fit great - if they don't return them and resize appropriately.

33 should be good - the weird guy is a pretty tight fit.

I'm pretty sure dior is supposed to be tts or down 1 from true waist. They will stretch about an inch. It is a tight cut either way.

Edited January 23, 2012 by Bradapalooza

[GEToutHOEits6AM]

If you can't try them on order the 33. If they fit great - if they don't return them and resize appropriately.

33 should be good - the weird guy is a pretty tight fit.

I'm pretty sure dior is supposed to be tts or down 1 from true waist. They will stretch about an inch. It is a tight cut either way.

Thanks I finally get some help. Would you consider yourself very knowledgeable about denim? I'd still like a couple more opinion too just to be sure as returning them isn't something I want to do as it's expensive to ship to italy form here.

[Bradapalooza]

Thanks I finally get some help. Would you consider yourself very knowledgeable about denim? I'd still like a couple more opinion too just to be sure as returning them isn't something I want to do as it's expensive to ship to italy form here.

More knowledgeable than most.

The easiest thing you can do is measure where you expect the jeans to fit on your body so you know your actual waist size rather than comparing to your other jeans.

Your best bet is just to go try them are somewhere. If your in the US lots of major cities (New York, Chicago, Dallas, etc) have Barney's and I've seen Dior's in stock there several times.

Dior themselves state you should buy a fit that is tight on your waist because they will have about an inch of stretch.

Alternatively I'm sure you could call a store that stocks dior and ask them to measure the waist for you. High end clothing stores should definetely do that for you.

[GEToutHOEits6AM]

More knowledgeable than most.

The easiest thing you can do is measure where you expect the jeans to fit on your body so you know your actual waist size rather than comparing to your other jeans.

Your best bet is just to go try them are somewhere. If your in the US lots of major cities (New York, Chicago, Dallas, etc) have Barney's and I've seen Dior's in stock there several times.

Dior themselves state you should buy a fit that is tight on your waist because they will have about an inch of stretch.

Alternatively I'm sure you could call a store that stocks dior and ask them to measure the waist for you. High end clothing stores should definetely do that for you.

I live in Toronto, I dont think any stores here stock dior homme. I may have to go buy measuring tape.. Don't want to get the wrong size. Thanks for your help, it's really appreciated.

Edited January 23, 2012 by GEToutHOEits6AM

[Capt_Spaulding]

Noob here! I've been lurking here for a long long time and you all have been an invaluable resource for me so thanks for that...I even feel like I know a lot of you even though I've never actively participated in any threads.

Anyway, I was thinking about shrink-to-fit jeans and I was wondering if there's a way to "sanforize" jeans at home. I have hot and cold soaked a few pairs of Levis stfs and I'm seriously considering buying some Iron Hearts or Samurais but I don't like the colour loss or the change in texture (they get a little 'fuzzy') once they've been wet. I know it's an inevitability but I want to keep the sheen/patina on my raws for as long as possible. I just feel dressier in them. From what I understand, sanforizing involves hot rollers, steam, compression and singeing - which sounds a lot like ironing...so on to my questions:

Has anyone every tried shrinking their STF jeans without using water?

Would multiple sessions with an extra hot steam iron do the trick?

Would singeing even be necessary or is that for specific kinds of extra slubby denim?

That's all for now, I may have follow up questions. Cheers!

[Bradapalooza]

This is according to the people that invented the sanforized concept

their words not mine

"

Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.

When the fabric passes through the clip expander ©, we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the endless rubber belt ®. By squeezing rubber belt ® between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.

Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.

After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label. "

for this reason I don't think you'll have much luck because it involves moisturizing and forcing the fibers to contract to a point of tightness where they are locked by immediately removing the moisture.

you can shrink it with steam but not to the same point as a wash will do. I'd reccommend you just don't worry about it.

On colour loss:

Samurais and Iron Hearts have high quality dying and indigo itself is NOT water soluble. Therefore, until the indigo is loosened in some fashion to allow the water to envelope and pull it away (friction and other damage to the denim causes this) you will lose no colour. The STF looses colour because the dying is not fully attaching the indigo to the denim. Plus I believe the sams and ironhearts will still have some of the shiny colour of raw denim after the soak.

For your reading pleasure and my source

Edit: being able to rep yourself + being pretty close to the edit button is not a good combo. wtf sufu?

Edited January 23, 2012 by Bradapalooza

[Capt_Spaulding]

This is according to the people that invented the sanforized concept

their words not mine

"

Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrinkability within the fabric. Normally, a fabric must be moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. This allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.

When the fabric passes through the clip expander ©, we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure). In the close-up of fig. 1, we see the endless rubber belt ®. By squeezing rubber belt ® between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastical stretching of the rubber belt surface. The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.

Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs.

After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric.

After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label. "

for this reason I don't think you'll have much luck because it involves moisturizing and forcing the fibers to contract to a point of tightness where they are locked by immediately removing the moisture.

you can shrink it with steam but not to the same point as a wash will do. I'd reccommend you just don't worry about it.

On colour loss:

Samurais and Iron Hearts have high quality dying and indigo itself is NOT water soluble. Therefore, until the indigo is loosened in some fashion to allow the water to envelope and pull it away (friction and other damage to the denim causes this) you will lose no colour. The STF looses colour because the dying is fully attaching the indigo to the denim. Plus I believe the sams and ironhearts will still have some of the shiny colour of raw denim after the soak.

For your reading pleasure and my source

Wow, that's a lot more involved than I thought. I guess the trick is mechanically contracting the fabric and I just happen to have thrown out my rubber belt, rubber belt cylinder and my pressure rolls. Oh well, such is life. I agree with your recommendation that I not worry about it. Thanks for the through reply.

[rxanderq]

I am interested in a pair of Momotaro 705SP.

What is general opinion of this brand/model?

Should I size down one or two sizes?

[blosom]

Hey peoples.

Not posted here in a while, not needed new jeans for ages......Anyway...

I was wondering about the brand Thvm Atelier...

Does anyone know how they size? Waist etc.

I was interested in the skinny cut mainly.

I normally wear Nudie thin finns......Maybe not the most favorite with denim heads, but for me the fit is perfection. (Considering my long thin frame)

Would the skinny Thvm fit compare to finns? Its the skinny raw im interested in.

Any words of wisdom would be golden. Thanks guys.

[bluegoldblues]

Could someone point me in the direction of a good heavy duty Sewing thread suitable for denim preferably that lemony colour?

what sort of weight/thickness do i need to be looking for?

[Maynard Friedman]

Could someone point me in the direction of a good heavy duty Sewing thread suitable for denim preferably that lemony colour?

what sort of weight/thickness do i need to be looking for?

I get all my Gutermann thread from here:

http://www.sewessential.co.uk/categorytree.asp?categoryid=637

Edited January 24, 2012 by Maynard Friedman

[ranonranonarat]

Hey peoples.

Not posted here in a while, not needed new jeans for ages......Anyway...

I was wondering about the brand Thvm Atelier...

Does anyone know how they size? Waist etc.

I was interested in the skinny cut mainly.

I normally wear Nudie thin finns......Maybe not the most favorite with denim heads, but for me the fit is perfection. (Considering my long thin frame)

Would the skinny Thvm fit compare to finns? Its the skinny raw im interested in.

Any words of wisdom would be golden. Thanks guys.

the skinnies run pretty slim but not as much as thin finns i would suppose. not a great quality pair of jeans but seems more like fashion-y type jeans. they seem to run about one size big so i would say go down one.

[whozdrew?]

Can anyone point out some differences between Sam's 710 and IH's 666 (raw)? Thanks in advance

[hypnos123]

Any jeans that are slim throughout the leg (i.e. knee <9" and leg opening 7.5-8") but generous in the waist?

I'm a skinny guy but with a little bit of a belly. I need a 34 waist, but many jean's leg openings become quite big when the waist size hits this mark. Anything other than APC NS and n&f weird guy?

[anklspr]

^ So you have a big waist and skinny legs? How big are your thighs? That sounds like it has potential to be quite unflattering on most people, hence the lack of companies making a cut like that. You could just get a pair with denim that you like and then have a tailor taper them for you.

[hypnos123]

^ So you have a big waist and skinny legs? How big are your thighs? That sounds like it has potential to be quite unflattering on most people, hence the lack of companies making a cut like that. You could just get a pair with denim that you like and then have a tailor taper them for you.

Normal thighs...11-12" are okay.

Yeah, I do look shit . And tailors usually fuck things up.

I guess I should hit the track instead of dropping $300 on another jeans

[anklspr]

^ Didn't mean it like that and quite a few people on this forum get their jeans tapered with great results. I just meant that having a pair of jeans taper that much would leave most of us with an ice cream cone silhouette. One suspects that companies leave the small leg openings like 7.5" off their mid to larger waist sizes for a reason.

Edited January 24, 2012 by jonny

[divinebaboon]

Hi guys. I just bought a 1947 Levi Vintage 501xx from J.crew for $160, and it's my first raw,STF,selvedge denim ever. I have a few questions retarding the shrinking procedure:

1. I have a pair of current day 32x30 501s and think they are a little roomy in the thigh. I'm looking to shrink my 34x34 1947 down to 32x31 since I heard LVC 501s are slimmer than current 501s. Thinking about dropping my 1947s into hot wash, then hot dry, then soak in hot water, then air dry. Is that too extreme? If too extreme, should I just do hot soak for 4 hours then line dry and repeat that if still too big?

PS: I don't have a tub so I can't wear them and soak. I do have a big kitchen sink though.

2. When air drying 1947s, Does how you hang them up affect anything? I only have normal plastic cloth hangers and no cloths pins. Planning on just folding the jean in half and drape it over the bottom of the hanger

3. I hear a lot about raw jeans become stiff after you airdry them. Why does being stiff matter so much? Do they get fades easier if they are stiff or something?

Thank you for your answers.

[Bradapalooza]

1 is wayyyyyy overkill - try a 45 minute hot soak in your sink - hang to dry but not over a clothes hanger if possible. grab one of the ones that have clips to hold the jeans. If you fold them you'll get a crease in the middle- which would go away eventually - but better to spend 99 cents and avoid it altogether. Plus hanging them with a hanger like this so they can hang with the legs and waist open can help prevent smelly jeans once you've been wearing them awhile. The only "special way" to hang them is just if you are worried about the inseam (or possibly the waist being too small, not gonna happen in your case I think), in which case you would hang them by the legs rather than the waist. Unless you have freakishly long legs - you don't need to worry.

When they are stiff they form creases more quickly - but its not really a concious choice, its more that the shrinkage packs the fibers so closely together. They'll soften back up pretty quickly.

Edited January 25, 2012 by Bradapalooza

[cuddlestheshee]

Alright guys my gf ordered me the imperial self edge sexi14 in a size 30 and they are just a tad too small. I'm returning them and getting 360 in online credit and want a pair of jeans that have a similar fit. I wear a 30 in imp dukes and a 30 in 666 ods. Both sanforized so I'm a little new at unsanforized sizing. Was looking at the strike gold 2109s. Any other recommendations and sizes?

[llvlaglne]

the strike gold 2109 is a good idea.... only other thing i'd reccommend are the 1109, tfh f2001 or f310, or a pair of 666raw. have you ever looked at the strike golds in person?

[Paul T]

Hi guys. I just bought a 1947 Levi Vintage 501xx from J.crew for $160, and it's my first raw,STF,selvedge denim ever. I have a few questions retarding the shrinking procedure:

1. I have a pair of current day 32x30 501s and think they are a little roomy in the thigh. I'm looking to shrink my 34x34 1947 down to 32x31 since I heard LVC 501s are slimmer than current 501s. Thinking about dropping my 1947s into hot wash, then hot dry, then soak in hot water, then air dry. Is that too extreme? If too extreme, should I just do hot soak for 4 hours then line dry and repeat that if still too big?

PS: I don't have a tub so I can't wear them and soak. I do have a big kitchen sink though.

2. When air drying 1947s, Does how you hang them up affect anything? I only have normal plastic cloth hangers and no cloths pins. Planning on just folding the jean in half and drape it over the bottom of the hanger

3. I hear a lot about raw jeans become stiff after you airdry them. Why does being stiff matter so much? Do they get fades easier if they are stiff or something?

Thank you for your answers.

1: wash them as opposed to soaking for maximum shrinkage - 40 degrees is probably best, I've washed at 95 degrees for max shrinkage, but the difference is probabyl marginal once you account for stretch. Wash them inside out, and it can be a good idea to take them out before spinning. But do not put them in the dryer. According to Cone, who make the denim, this destroys the remaining size-ing (resins or wax) on the warp(blue) yarns, hence you'll lose some of the depth of the indigo. Once you've washed them, that extra hot soak will almost certainly be superfluous.

2: Folding your jeans over the hanger will probably be fine, but better still, peg the waist band for them so you don't get creases.

3: Jeans do perhaps come out stiffer after air drying, this is more to do with retaining the starch and size-ing, which comes from a combination of how you wash/soak and how you dry. Some people (including me) like the stiff, crisp feel of newer jeans; in fact, they're less likely to attract dirt if they're crisp with some of the original starch still in there. Many people feel that this gives better wear, because the creases will be more defined - this is probably true, but with the 47, you may pay for that with broken threads on the back of the knees for instance.

In the end, it's what you feel more comfortable with. This site tends to make people too obsessed with minor details, which will make only a marginal difference three or six months down the line.

[Guest jas010100]

how much if any will my raws shrink if i take a hot shower in em? swear to god someone elses been wearin my shit. thighs are blown out. help

Edited January 27, 2012 by jas010100

[Bradapalooza]

About half an inch if that. If it's really stretched you could see an inch but I doubt your denim has stretched to that extent.

btw - are you trying to reference jaz-o? or is that just a random user name or binary or something?

props if its jaz-o haha

Edited January 27, 2012 by Bradapalooza

[Guest jas010100]

its the matrix code millenium or whatever. I like jaz-0 though. the originators. right on though^

[meroswarrior]

Where can I get repairs in the bay area? How much should i be expecting to pay? Thanks

[pingaling]

^ i'd go to selfedge but i'm not too sure on pricing. ask kiya on the SE thread.

[gringoinoki]

Where can I get repairs in the bay area? How much should i be expecting to pay? Thanks

"]http://www.juliandash.com/ holy stitch Edited January 27, 2012 by gringoinoki