TCB

[sven]

On 5/1/2022 at 5:44 PM, julian-wolf said:

Got really excited when I first caught wind of them, but according to Ryo the jeans are even slimmer than the S40s, which were a good bit too slim for me to begin with, so…

That’s a bummer. Slimmer than the 40s would not be for me either.

[suchislife]

Need some help last year I got an S40 jacket size 44, long story short it doesn't fit anything like a 44-inch chest size.

Are the measurements on the website up to date, do I really need to get a tag size 50?

 

[NilsLW]

There goes the patch…

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

On 5/2/2022 at 10:55 PM, sven said:

That’s a bummer. Slimmer than the 40s would not be for me either.

They are slimmer than the 40s. More like the 60s. However the fabric is pretty light and soft so they are not restrictive in any way. For example my Viapiana jeans are about an inch and half wider in the thigh but are much more restrictive due to the fabric. 

[sven]

50s are getting a break from wear until all the pockets have been repaired.

Edited May 18, 2022 by sven

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

In case anyones interested I have a pair of brand new working cat hero jeans in 33(sold out already on the website)for sale. Posted on the sales thread but couldn’t hurt to let folks here know. 
hit me up if you’re interested. 

[sven]

FedEx just dropped off my long awaited 40s. Glad I sized them the same as my other TCB, because I love the fit. And that high waist is so comfortable. Was pleasantly surprised by how dark the denim is. They also feel a fair bit stiffer than my 50s did when I got them, but I might just be getting old and forgetful. Sorry for the poor lighting.

 

[NilsLW]

Lovely. Makes me miss when my 40s were still new and unwashed. I love the denim TCB used for these, it has so much character.

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

The fabric is tougher because of the cotton I think(50s is Zimbabwean cotton). Great pair of jeans. Enjoy them. 

[bartlebyyphonics]

looks like they are paying attention to the shorter jacket requests going on... the size chart for their new pattern of type 1; [still a touch long by around 1.5cm  tbh [... edit; looking through freewheelers thread, seeing @MJF9's 1927 getting reposted; looked up their sizing; seems around 0.5 cm difference in their lengths; but fw doing a truer box shape; these numbers from tcb still hedging towards a mildly tubular box ... ]

 

...am approving of the new [older style] collar shape  ...

 

an image for cross reference re; collar and curved pocket flap [from denimseeker's draft book, in turn taken from mushroom vintage store...] - listed as a c.1928 version

Edited June 16, 2022 by bartlebyyphonics

[istewi]

After looking at the size chart and talking to Ryo, I made a preorder for the 20s Jacket in a size 46(56cm across the chest). comparing the measurements of my size 40 Dubbleworks type 2,  which is about 54.5 cm across the chest. I wanted it to be a little roomier than my Dubbleworks jacket, but sizing up from 40 to 46 definitely feels crazy. He assured me the post wash fabric tends to shrink more than TCBs other fabrics. @bartlebyyphonics I also asked Ryo if the length would shrink a couple CM and he said it'll surely happen. I guess I'll know in August! 

Edited June 16, 2022 by istewi

[bartlebyyphonics]

good to know!

btw ... I happily wear a 48 in their s40s jacket, whilst fitting a 44 in lvc type 1, so their higher 40s numbers in jackets don't necessarily translate to 38=M, 40=L etc... the chest seems to be the spot that is narrowest, so working from there makes sense [normally I go from shoulders, but the chest seems like a good place to work from with this...]

[MJF9]

Agree the more splayed collar on the late 20s style is a nice change from the (also very nice) 40s version I have

On top of the collar and curved pocket, I also like the wider sleeves (I did a comparison fwiww against my early 1946 CSF somewhere, will dig out and link it in again) and the boxy fit.  I also note the FW sleeve length is a touch on the shorter side than my other denim jackets

The TCB measurements above (thanks @bartlebyyphonics ) just shrieked spreadsheet analysis at me!

So using the latest post-wash measurements on my FW size 44, I've taken my constraining dimension of P2P / chest (based on the TCB chart above) and compared based on that... there's quite a variance (all in cm)... maybe an extra wash will bring it in, as per @istewi

Would be interested in TCB sleeve width measurements to see where they landed on that

(One of the Levis experts here may chime in with some period correct sleeve guidance here) 

Hastening to add there's space for all of this in the denim universe, whatever works works

[bartlebyyphonics]

spreadsheet analysis ftw!

adding to yr numbers and comparisons, to note you are comparing a more washed garment with a OW [which will always shrink a little in my experience] which will only add drama to the variance: the OW measurements for your jacket from mcfly are this: "Size 44 Shoulder width 51.5 cm Width 60.0 cm Length 62.0 cm Sleeve length 61.0 cm" so the washes you have done have skimmed some bulk off... but the thrust of it remains the same: tcb still going for length in certain places whilst fw going for the grail of the true box fit [which lvc seem to do well too ... ]

re: tcb pattern would def say the jump up from the size 48 to the 50 [which looks to be the one you are drawing from] is marked... 

for the 40/42/44/46/48 key numbers [for sleeve and 'dress length'] remain static but then it seems to leap. up when crossing the rubicon to the sz.50 [which seems to be a statistical expansion into oversize 'big boy fit'... I'd be happy with the 46 or 48, but those 50 number do look 'epic' ]

the shoulder size as oversize def. chimes with the epic shoulders of the 'viktor's voice' 213 jacket which had huge shoulders [and massively wide arms too] but also massive 67cm overall length... a shorter length but 20s styling is indeed most welcome

no experience with other tcb jackets except the s40, which def. has wide arms [but also only 1 panel construction so no taper just a straight tunnel]

here's the shot of the 20s jacket [at sz.38 I think, sz.40+ are t-backs] that seems to suggest pretty big arm widths... but I reckon the 48 wouldn't work for your chest constraint and agreeing that the 50 is too much...

and this is ryo wearing an over-sized fit in a sz.48 - sleeves look generous there too...

off topic; but looking at the clutch cafe site on their warehouse type 1 dd-2001 [sold out] - that also seems to go with the 20s collars and rounded pocket flap [even though they are listing it as 30s/40s...]

the numbers clutch give for this one [it seems to be on the warehouse site too, but no measurements]

here are the numbers hinoya provide for their stock of warehouse 20s model [but seems to be raw numbers... check the sz.42 sleeve!]

 

seems like there is a 20s-era type 1 rush post ww2 era overload [or am I just not aware enough of the shifting type 1 tides...]?

 

 

[MJF9]

All good reading and info Bartles

I see the TCB jacket will use the same 12.5oz denim as specially made for the 20s jeans... really lovely denim it is too - see below for a pic from Oct 2020 (coincidentally).  A well-worn jacket in this denim will look awesome, no doubt

Ryo's dress length looks good, sleeves look the part in width tho on the longer end of the spectrum

The buttons are another interesting point...

The FW 1927 jacket has unbranded, white/cream, small buttons... I include below pics from the denim jacket book showing similar

Looks like the 20s jacket TCB built from has branded and slightly smaller buttons - and looks like they've been consistent with that

As with previous TCBs, the proof of the pudding sizing will be in the eating (I remember Ryo saying they make a pair of jeans then extrapolate to estimate the sizings across the range before they make them)... therein lies some excitement to come (vicariously for me)

Edited June 17, 2022 by MJF9

[istewi]

@bartlebyyphonics What you've said above does make me feel better about going with the 46! The shoulders will certainly be dropped and the arms might be a touch long. Comparing the TCB 20 chart to other similar jackets has the arms, pretty consistently, a couple of CM longer. Keeping that consistent length for those middle sizes seems to push the higher end of the sizes into a more boxy fit. Ryo's jacket looks good proportionately. Where as the slimmer guys, wearing smaller sizes, have that usually long tube look that most TCB jackets have.  hmmm 

@MJF9 Are those your 20's jeans? Did you notice significant shrink after more washes? 

[MJF9]

@istewi yeah they're mine mate.  I bought them raw when they first came out years ago, pre-order by email before the web store etc.  I can't remember what happened re shrinkage specifically.  The denim is stretchy - if I was asked to guess I reckon they ended up close to raw measurements.

Calling those in the 20s contest... can anyone help with this?

The contest thread is back on page 7 here so will have loads of details in there... Happy Jeans - Tcb 20s contest thread - superdenim - superfuture® – supertalk

[bartlebyyphonics]

10 hours ago, MJF9 said:

 

 

oh yes: granular detail and monster sleeves! huge!

my experience with 20s jeans was shrinkage wasn't any better or worse than the 50s/40s...

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

I don’t have the contest pair but just the regular 20s. I bought them raw and washed them, they shrunk to about half and inch below tag size and quite quickly stretched back to tag. This was the general range they kept in after each wash. I always used machine wash(40c and spin cycle) and air dried afterwards. 

[bartlebyyphonics]

feel like I am spamming their ig feed onto the board, so forgive me, but this was image hidden in the 'loom visit' post recently... been looking for a heavier weight '37 cut...

[MJF9]

^ keep 'em coming.... all welcomed

[sven]

There's a bunch of info on the upcoming 37 model on their blog now.

Edited June 23, 2022 by sven

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Was about to post this  

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

I wonder how does the fit of the 37 model usually compares to the 20s? Which is wider? 

[sven]

Don’t know much about 37 fits, but I would love the rise of the 40s and the width of the 50s. 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

I think the 20s are wider than the 50s? Up to now the 20s is my favorite cut from TCB, and one of the best fabrics for sure. But I have yet to try or handle the Two Cats Brand and the waist overalls. 
 

im also pretty eager to try the seaman trousers at some point. Maybe next summer. 

Edited June 23, 2022 by Hopethisoneisnttaken

[sven]

Oh cool, I haven't had the chance to try the 20's. Thought 50's was the widest cut.
Edit: Looking at the charts, the 20's have the wider thigh, and the 50's have the wider hem.

Edited June 23, 2022 by sven

[bartlebyyphonics]

thanks for the link @sven

20s def. wider through the whole leg than the 50s...

def. wondering about the '37 shape they will do... the lvc '37 is quite trim [and the denim, whilst lovely is a tad to thin for my liking for such a slimmer fit] as I think is the warehouse model [which has chunkier fabric nonetheless] ... as a standard, I liked the fit, cut and top block of the sugar cane '37 model that @JMS posted in that thread very much ...

in terms of back pockets they [tcb] look to be doing that nicely; to repost from the blog and to compare to other comparable models:

 

sugar cane's current m.i.a. version...

 

warehouse dd-1004 [which seem to be going full csf-style in terms of 'tulip' waist band area, and the angle of the pocket]

 

 

then the full count version... [cutting out hissing at the back...]

 

 

and then the original piece TCB are drawing from again:

Edited June 23, 2022 by bartlebyyphonics

[jewellben]

These 37 look awesome 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Pre-orders available probaby from Saturday on, release in August/September according to Ryo